Isuzu :: 1993 - Stalls While Decelerating?
Oct 30, 2013
My 1993 Isuzu pickup with a 2.3L 4 cylinder has started to stall when I take my foot off the accelerator, it runs fine as long as I am giving it gas, but when I take my foot off the gas to stop at a light, it dies. It always starts right back up. Recently, it also stalls when I crank it unless I am giving it gas. It seemed like vacuum but the shop did a smoke test and could not find anything. Finally I cranked up the idle adjustment so that it idles around 2k RPM. So far so good, but obviously not the right answer.
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I have a 1993 Isuzu Trooper. I put too much oil in the other day, about half a quart, and wanted to drain it out of the bottom. I loosened the drain plug like normal and it wouldn't come out at all, just spun in the same place. Tried retightening the plug and it wouldn't tighten either. It was tight when I started. It would get tight for a second and then get loose again, feeling like a stripped thread. Oil is leaking out from around the plug. I cannot twist the plug with my fingers, so its not super loose but it's loose enough to leak oil. Is this a easy fix for an oversized plug or will the entire oil pan have to be replaced?
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I have a 2004 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0L that is fully stock. Back in December the truck stalled while braking to a stop at a red light. No check engine light, no O/D light flashing, just died. I restarted it and it ran as if nothing happened. It ran fine for a few weeks and just when I am thinking it was an isolated incident it happened again, restarted, ran fine. It seems to be shifting normally through all gears, every once in a while it feels like it might shift from 2nd to 3rd a little pre-mature but that may just be my imagination. A month ago I felt a VERY slight jerk, almost unnoticeable, while pulling into a parking spot and the O/D light started flashing. A couple days ago (which was a little over a month since it last happened) it done it at 3 consecutive red lights. Been running fine since. Had the code read and it was P0733 Gear 3 Incorrect Ratio. I changed trans fluid in February and fluid level is fine.
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I have a 2003 Ex with 7.3L. Occasionally my truck stalls while decelerating, typically when hot and going slow or coming to a stop. I had my friend who works for Ford put is on their diagnostic system and did a buzz test and found no issues. I replaces the CPS. What to look for to resolve?
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93" chevy, k 1500 305 engine, stalled, then hard to restart lots of black smoke, fuel, no air? Bad mixture? When it starts it backfires, runs rough black smoke, and stalls again. dist. module ck. o.k. cap and rotor good.
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car stalls out while driving, seems like the whole system shuts down lights stay on. Put diagnostics on it.Took to garage, couldn't find the problem. New plugs, checked distributer, all ok.
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My Daughter has a 93 jeep wrangler...every time it slows for a stop it stalls out..will start right back up but shows no trouble codes...I have cleaned the throttle body..the AIC valve...and check the fule pump pressure. check engine light did come on once my Daughter said but found no stored code. Have also replaced the gas cap, plugs and wires. when restarted it fires right up faster than a cold morning start. This is a straight 6 with around 169K miles.
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I have 93 cutlass Cierra..6 cylinder..3.3.. when it's fully warmed up it stalls out on me as I'm accelerating from a stop. but then if I wait a minute and re start it it most times will run ok.. and is loosing power sometimes, when fully warmed up she gets bogged down in pressing the accelerator....it won't stall when Idling.. only when fully warmed up when Accelerating....the engine raced the other day as if someone was stepping on the gas when I wasn't.. Only did that once..hasn't did that since.. Service engine light is on..I have new Oxygen sensor, cleaned the maf sensor..new fuel pump and new fuel filter..new plugs and wires and air filter this past summer..
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Checked but could find much on the throttle body. I have a 93 Chev 1500 2wd 5.7 320000km when I drive on highway, it drives along good when I get to slower speeds is seems to studder. I have to push gas pedal to push it threw. I bought some throttle body cleaner and I noticed that when I sprayed around the bottom of throttle body. It almost stalls. Could this be the reason why I am getting the studder and is that the indication that I should replace the base of throttle body gasket ? I replaced the plugs and fuel filter cleaned iac motor ....
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I have a 93 Town car that runs good until it warms up to normal running temperature, then the check engine light comes on and the car falls all over itself and sometimes stalls. I have changed everything but the kitchen sink Re; fuel filter, fuel pump, gas tank, IAC motor, TPS, cleaned out cats and when you scan it no codes show.
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I just purchased a 93 escort sedan 1.9 ltr engine. Car runs great when idling but bogs down when accelerating to the point it almost stalls out but doesn't stall. the car sat for a while 6 + months. We thought the gas might be bad so we drained the tank filed it with premium to run thru the line but that didn't work. thought maybe o2 sensor, changed that but didn't work. getting error codes 412 and 538 but can't find any info on these codes.
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Well I have a 93 Explorer and when the air temp gets over 100 it stalls. It sounds like it starves for fuel. The fuel pump was replaced. A year or so. Ago but it sat. For a year I replaced the fuel filter.
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1993 Dodge Ram 2500 .... Multiple symptoms... some times engine turns over but truck will not start. sometimes engine dies whether driving at slow or high speeds. Happens whether engine is cold or warm. After sitting a while, the truck starts and will run for several days. Has 40 lbs of fuel pressure, we've changed out the ignition switch, crank sensor, distributor cap, rotor, pickup, engine control module, crank shaft position sensor.This has been happening for three months, I've been towed in 4 times. When mechanic connects diagnostic tool to the ecm, the engine starts and runs fine. Diagnostic shows no data of previous problem.
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My grandson keep his 93 GMC K1500 w/5.7L auto running till he gets out of college. The problem is the engine stalls (sometimes) when put into gear (D or R) and more often when the lights and heater blower are turned on. There were two codes in the pcm (42 & 43) both referring to ignition problems. We did a tune up and erased the codes. After driving the truck for a week the pcm has no codes but the engine still stalls. We cleaned the IAC pintel and seat thinking there might be an air control problem, no luck. The repair manual mentioned ignition advance as a problem particularly the ESC. The manual says this part is on the side of the throttle body but we can not find it.
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OK, this one has me stumped...I have a 93 F150, 302 with the E4OD. I know the transmission needs to be rebuilt (probably a bad pump). When I put it in reverse, the engine will start to bog down and will die unless I put it back into park or neutral.
If the engine does die, the fuel pump does not prime with the key "on" and the engine obviously will not start. If I let the truck sit for about an hour, the fuel pump primes like it should and the engine starts right up. The fuel pump shut-off does not trip and all fuses are good.
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I replaced the water pump, power steering pressure hose and pump, and fuel filter. I degreased the engine at a car wash and rinsed with the power hose. Now when I drive it chugs/hesitating from stop to accelerate. I took it to a shop who hooked it up to the machine MAF & map sensors working correctly but the computer is not controlling them. What can I do?
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I have water in the oil. I want to use blue devil, sealant. Should I flush the cooling system, running the vehicle with milky oil? or should I change the oil?
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We've had two problems within the last week with our 2002 Sport Trac (4.0l SOHC engine w/167,xxx miles). They may be unrelated, but I suspect there's good change they are. Both incidents happened while my 16 yo daughter was driving, so there's only very limited info on what happens. Both times, when I get there, it starts and runs fine. There is no CEL.
The first time it apparently stalled as she neared her destination after driving only about 2-3 miles at 35 mph or less after a cold start. She was slowing to pull into a parking lot and reported the dash lit up with warning lights, no power steering assist and no power brakes and no power from the engine. When I arrived it started and ran normally. She had fulled up the day before after two days of heavy rain, so I suspected water in the gas. I drove it more than 200 miles within the next 24 hours under a variety of conditions and filled up at a different station. I experienced no problem what-so-ever, and didn't bother adding any dry gas.
Then 5 days later (still on my fill-up) when she tried starting it after sitting all day, she reported the engine started but ran rough before stalling and never idled normally.
Doesn't the fact there's no CEL eliminate a lot of the upstream part of the control system......like sensors and actuators? This leaves things like the downstream parts of the fuel and ignition systems. I.e. from the fuel tank / pump to the injectors and the downstream parts of the ignition system.
What are the possible culprits? Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injectors, ignition module, spark plugs, and....... what else? (I'm not that familiar with what these engines have) And of the possibilities, what are the most likely causes.
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I have a 2002 Isuzu Rodeo with about 140,000 miles. The transmission slips when going from 2nd to 3rd gear. It there any hope for a repair that doesn't involve a tranny rebuild? Can anything else be done?
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I have a 98 Isuzu Rodeo I have been trying to fix a problem with the AC. It seems to run fine when idling, but when driving it starts to run poorly. I have manifold gauges, hooked them up to the low & high pressure ports earlier this morning. Static pressure was 97 on low port, and 100 on high port. Outside temperature was 75, but I don't know what the humidity was. I had the windows closed, AC on coldest, fan turned on full blast, recirculating.
I stuck a probe thermometer into the center vent, and after about 10 minutes the air was blowing at 40 degrees F. The compressor was spinning, and low pressure was 40 and high pressure was 225. I ran it like this for about 15 minutes, no problems. Then I wedged the throttle with a pencil and that pushed the RPMs up to a hair over 2000. Then the compressor started shutting off, then on, but not in any kind of rhythm that I could detect. The low pressure would drop to 23, the high pressure would jump up to 400; then high pressure would plummet to around 220.
Engine coolant level is normal, both fans are blowing, K & N air filter just got cleaned, relay seems good. The check engine light was on with a reading about the EGR valve, which I have cleaned. The engine light has not come back on. I know this is a lot of detail, but I'm trying to be thorough. I'm handy and mechanically inclined, but out of my depth at this level of AC troubleshooting.
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I have '88 Isuzu Trooper that has been sputtering lately. I'll be driving for a while then all of a sudden, it will start sputtering, lose all power and die. When I try to restart it, it will go immediately back to sputtering/dying mode. It's done it 3 times now. The first time, I waited about 20-30 minutes and was able to drive it for 5 minutes before the problem happened again. After waiting ~1 hour it started just fine and drove fine. The car drove fine for a few weeks then the same thing happened.... again, after waiting a few hours, it drove fine. I didn't have the problem again for a year and just happened again last night.
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