Infiniti - Qx4 :: 2000 - Can't Pass Inspection / Engine Light Is On
Jul 16, 2012
I've got a 2000 Infiniti Qx4 that I can NOT get to pass inspection. I replaced the engine at 130,000 miles, and since then I've had nothing but problems. I live in TN and I've got to pass emissions testing. The car drives/runs great, no problems. I'm down to code P1105 or something, MAP/solenoid valve... Or maybe it was P10107 or something. Anyways it means the MAF sensor is malfunctioning or I've got bad hoses or electrical connections near the intake. So I replace the MAF. Nope, check engine light still on. I replace the clips on the hoses for the MAF. Nope, still on. I check all the wires n all the hoses. Nope, light still on. Now my mechanic is going on about I might have a bad computer or it might not have accepted the new engine as it was from a different year (still a 3.3L V6 standard of the prior to 2001 model)? My mechanic has been at it for over 2 weeks trying all kinds of stuff but to no avail.
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The mechanic told me the oxygen sensor needs to be replaced but it is not an essential item. Can this be bypassed in order to have the car pass. Its not a safety issue. My car is a 98 and has 147,000 miles on it. It leaks oil, power steering fluid, the heat does not always work and I am shopping for a new car and do not want to spend money on anything not needed
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Can not get MIL light to stay off and car will not pass state inspection. After hooking up laptop to my 96 850GLT and using VOL-FCR the EFI-445 code comes up and also states Pulsed Secondary Air Injection System Pump Signal. Everything seems to be working properly (relays, pump etc.) and vacuum pressure around 18. I have replaced the upstream O2 sensor as my OBD II scanner said that was the problem but after that the scanner was pretty much useless as it lead me in a hundred different areas to check and is getting costly so got the VOL-FCR.
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1996 Chevy 2500 (3/4 Ton) 4x4.
My vehicle inspection wouldn't pass the jounce bumper bracket (stops upper control arm from traveling too far) on the drivers side front. The bracket is rusting out and needs to be repaired or replaced. The bracket is welded to the frame.
Does it sound feasible to cut a bracket off at the wreckers and weld it to my frame?
Do they allow zip disk cutters in Pull a Part?
The passenger side bracket is OK.
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Question about my dads 2000 explorer with the 4.0, he just noticed it was leaking oil heavily. Added 2quarts and drove it home. I looked under it and the oil is dripping very steadily from what appears to be the inspection plate area where engine meets trans. Have y'all ever seen a rear main seal fall out or cause a leak this heavy? I know we will have to clean it and re check but this is all I have seen at this point. Is there any other seal or issue that could cause this from inside the bell housing area or nearby?
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My check engine light is on and I read the code with my obd and the problem catalytic converter is bank 1. Which is bank 1?
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My friend has a 2004 Trailblazer with a 4.2. He was driving it a few days ago and the check engine light came on and it would not run pass 15 miles per hour. He turned the truck off and re-started it. The light went off and the problem went away. The scan tool came up with an old code that that throttle body sensor was bad or the throttle body needed cleaned. We cleaned the throttle body and ran it and it ran fine. Now here is the problem. When the heater is on and the truck is at idle, the truck will idle at 2000 rpm, then kick back to normal then kick back to 2000 rpm and then keep repating this issue. If we shut the heat off, the truck idles fine.
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My friend just bought (one week ago) a 1995 Infiniti G20T with 130,000 miles. The car is in great condition, except for the flecking/peeling gold paint (common problem with gold or silver paints?). When he bought it the car had a couple minor issues and had the "check engine" light on. After researching a bit, we figured that the possible issues causing the check engine light couldn't be too severe, given the car's asking price. So, he buys the car and I look up how to check the "check engine" light codes. I manage to get at the ECU and record (with the blinking red light) two codes: #34 and #105 - knock sensor and EGR + canister and control soleloid.
Good news, I told him. Both of those are relatively cheap to fix. So, I close up the ECU access and ask to borrow the car to run a couple errands. So, I go to one store, shop, get back in the car, make another stop at a store, get back in the car, make a third stop at a store and as I'm parking the car appears to start to loose power - engine seems about to stall and lights fade a bit. I rev the engine and it's fine. I (stupidly) go into the store and return to the car which now won't start. Turning the key to the crank position produces "click click click" and nothing else. Radio and lights work, but I turn off all these in case it's a low battery. Again - click click click.
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2002 Infinity QX4: Why the Service Engine Light appeared 2 days after 3 emission sensors were replaced?
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Is it safe to rev the engine while in inspection mode (forced idle). Someone has a question about checking for valve noise in the top thread about common 2G problems in the maintenance discussion, and I unsure about giving advice concerning revving the engine via the throttle motor. I will mention, I suppose, the check engine light will turn on.
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I'm hearing a disconcerting sound coming from my car as of late. It's a rattling sound, almost as if someone were shaking a can of spray paint at the same frequency as the engine. It doesn't strike me as being a heat shield, it's a heavier rattling, not really a buzz.
The sound usually occurs when I am above 2000 RPM, however, it does not match an RPM range or the car's speed—it seems more closely associated with the position of the gas pedal—about halfway to 3/4. It does not make the sound unless the car is in gear and moving.
On cold starts, the engine fires and runs, but then takes up to 30-40 seconds to really get going at a normal RPM. Efforts to coax it with the gas pedal are delayed by a second or two before they kick in...
The car is a 2001 model, and has 44,000 miles.
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My 2000 Infiniti QX4 has 145,000 miles. It starts fine but when i press the gas when going from a stop position it has little power.There is an hesitation and then it moves very slowly even if the gas pedal is depress all the way. Once it gets to 20 or 30 miles it moves okay. The problem is only present when going from stop. Due to the lack of acceleration, I am reluctant to drive it on the highway because of the risk of a slow merger...
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Very strange problem for me especially since it's not my car, belongs to my sister. Only code that was set last month indicated the MAF so I cleaned it and the car ran fine. Started to hesitate up hills (steep uphill driveway) so I replaced the fuel filter yesterday and my sister said it drove just fine uphill. Now it stalls whenever put into drive, no codes set and none pending. It will idle in reverse but not in drive.
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2008 R32 with 106K. Have always used Mid Grade (89) octane since owning. Drive approx 800 miles a week. Has always run exceptionally well up until about two weeks ago. Three weeks ago installed Borla Cat Back. Still Ran Great. After two weeks the engine started stalling out when you floor the car which coincided with the Heat Wave we just had. Several weeks in the triple digits.
VW Dealer did a diagnostic and found no Codes. VW dealer sent info off to VW and they said I had regular gas, (which I did have mid-grade). I was told to stop using mid-grade and use 91 0r 93 octane. Service Writer told me I had carbon build-up from regular gas.
Today I had the BW Induction Service done and no change, engine still stalls out. At this point, I a not sure how to proceed to correct the stalling. I am leaving tomorrow on an 800 mile business trip. the engine runs great up to about 3/4 throttle or when floored. I have filled up today with shell 93 octane and will continue to use 91 or higher.
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2011 infiniti. new rear rotors/pads 6k miles ago. now there is a rhythmic sound with very slow speed braking. like a bad spot on 1 rotor. you hear a grind, stop, grind, stop. its not a constant grind sound. i looked at both rear rotors thru rim slots. rotors look perfect. very smooth. i have not pulled wheels to check. i am thinking rotors making sound vs pads making sound. but why would a rotor have an odd spot or rough patch? there is no ridge at all on rotors. cant see the pads rubbing on some rust ridge? there is none....
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I have a 2003 Infiniti g35 with about 140,000 miles on it. Its been having a strange problem recently and intermittently. Sometimes when I first get in the car and I put the key in and try to start it NOTHING happens. I mean nothing. Not sound, no lights anything. If I slam the door and try the key again the dash lights may flick on for a second but then nothing. I'll open the hood for a bit and slam it and try starting it again and it will usually start again fine. It also seems to happen more when its hot outside or the car has been sitting in the sun. Other things notable about this problem is that MOST of the time, things like the radio presets are unaffected. That is, when the car does start it's not like it was a cable from the battery or anything since the radio was still getting power.
Another, possibly related problem, is if the car is running and I park, but have not turned the ignition off yet because I'm listening to the radio (those driveway moments) and reach up like I'm ready to turn the car off and just ever so slightly grip the key, the radio will die and the engine will keep going. These things lead me to believe that it all has something to do with the actual ignition switch where the key goes in. Of course when I drop it off at the mechanic it does not get reproduced and he thought it was the starter until I reiterated the fact that NOTHING happens when the key turns. It can't be the starter since when you turn the key there is no power to anything. This has been going on for over a month but I finally got fed up when I couldn't get it started after stopping at the 7-11 on the way to work. I took it right into the shop but the mechanics opinion is "if I can't get it to act up, I can't diagnose the problem" which seems kinda lame to me, but what can I do.
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I have a 2004 G35 that has not given me many mechanical problems. However, before my last oil change, I noticed noise from my engine which I wasnt used to. After 2 days I checked the dipstick and there was almost no oil on it which greatly worried me. I put in two 10W30 bottles and got a normal oil change the next day. Its been a week now and I still hear this noise when I start my car and its idling (cant hear it while driving cuz of the normal engine/road noise). It almost sounds like a noise I would hear from my dad old 70s diesel benz's, just not as loud.
Its def mechanical but I can't figure out what it is or where exactly its coming from. Its been 10 days now since the noise first started and it doesn't seem to be going away. I just checked engine oil levels now and they are near max. When I open up the hood, I don't hear the noise ( over the normal engine/belt noise), but its very apparent once inside the car with the doors closed and windows up. I am worried my car might end up and die on me all of a sudden while on the freeway or if my transmission is going to go bad.
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Last year, I had the unfortunate experience of having to get my engine replaced on a 2003 Infiniti G35 (only 121k miles, I got it used in '06, long story, I assume previous owner didn't take very good care of it). I opted to have a local mechanic find a used engine instead of paying for a rebuilt one and he was able to find one that had ~60k miles on it so I went with it. Now it's 9 months later and I have started noticing a burning oil smell while sitting in the car at a stop. I took it into a shop (not the one that replaced the engine, different tire and lube shop) and they found that the rear main seal was leaking pretty badly and that's where the smell was coming from. They don't do that kind of work so I need to take it somewhere else to get any repair done.
I feel like, if a second diagnosis also says RMS is the problem, that the shop that put in the engine should have given me a new RMS when they put in the used engine. Is it not something that would be visible and thus easily replaced when installing the new engine? If they did in fact replace it, it wouldn't possibly have failed on its own after only 8 or 9k miles, would it? I don't normally hearing about RMS problems until cars are well over 100k miles.
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I have 1996 Infiniti I30. I have had to replace the brake light switch on multiple occasions. And even now it appears that I may have to again after replacing it about a two months ago. What would cause this, faulty switches or internal electrical problem?
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I was driving on the highway at about 80 mph when my car made a thunk noise and then the mph dropped to 40 mph. The car was hesitating but I continued to drive it to gas station. At this point steam was coming from passenger side engine front. The coolant was coming out now my car was overheating to the extreme. I drove it to shop. Next day he changed the thermostat and water pump. But he said it took him a while to get air out / bleeding it?! The day I drive off with my repaired car it still sounds loud eventually it sounds like a helicopter!!! Next day take it to Infiniti dealer they say I need a new engine. Internal engine failure! Could this have happened because the water pump wasn't replaced correctly? My car is a 2006 Infiniti G35x, 96k miles.
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I took my 1998 Infiniti I30 to my mechanic for routine maintenance, and I noticed the engine was working a tiny bit harder to startup and to accelerate on highway in the last 2 weeks. They discovered the air filter and housing were completely burnt out! We're scratching our heads. Internet search and check with other mechanics- no clues. It's been a dream for years with routine maintenance, has only 125k, last service May 2013 since I only drove it 5K since then. I'm the only driver and it sleeps in my garage (secure, no rodents). What the heck?
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