Infiniti - I35 :: Bad Radiator - Water In Transmission
May 2, 2011
Long story short is that my radiator malfunctioned and mixed transmission and coolant. I took it to a shop and they did a flush of both the radiator and transmission after putting in a brand new radiator. I drove it home and it has sat for a week. I popped the hood today and there is a little pit of pink transmission in the radiator no big deal but the transmission dip stick is thick and pink so I know there is water still in the transmission. I have already concluded I will need a new transmission and was curious what will I need to have replaced? Just the clutch, the entire transmission, or something else? Also would it be cheaper to have it overhauled or find a rebuilt transmission and pay to have it swapped? I understand quite a bit about cars but when it comes to transmission I have not knowledge.
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I was driving on the highway at about 80 mph when my car made a thunk noise and then the mph dropped to 40 mph. The car was hesitating but I continued to drive it to gas station. At this point steam was coming from passenger side engine front. The coolant was coming out now my car was overheating to the extreme. I drove it to shop. Next day he changed the thermostat and water pump. But he said it took him a while to get air out / bleeding it?! The day I drive off with my repaired car it still sounds loud eventually it sounds like a helicopter!!! Next day take it to Infiniti dealer they say I need a new engine. Internal engine failure! Could this have happened because the water pump wasn't replaced correctly? My car is a 2006 Infiniti G35x, 96k miles.
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My daughters 2006 Infinity G 35 transmission hesitates to downshift when lugging at 35mph. Is this a trait of this vehicle or a problem with the tranny or anything else?
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I've parked my R32 mk4 over 5 years ago and recently I started the engine and I noticed over heating and then noticed there is oil coming out of the radiator water reservoir / it's thick and brown !!
I thought about it and went full overall opened the whole thing the head and pistons and everything and I couldn't find any traces or anything broken ,, (I wanted to do that since a long time).
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I have a 1985 Toyota Celica Gt-s, and i have quite a bit of oil in the radiator. The car does not overheat, and I am wondering what exactly causes the oil to get in the radiator. I just purchased a full engine gasket set, and a timing kit. I am going to replace the headgasket, and the timing. I am not sure if the headgasket is the reason oil is in the radiator, but I am hoping so. Also there is no water in the oil, just oil in the radiator.
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I have a 2007 Camry with V6, automatic. My wife drives it daily and she said that a light came on saying water temp and it started to run hot. When I looked at it I could not see fluid anywhere and the reservoir along with the radiator was very low, almost a gallon of fluid to fill it up. I took the shroud from over the top of the radiator and along the top of the radiator and where it meets the fins the pink dried fluid was along it. I could also see where it looks like it's getting onto the electric fan. At first I thought the water pump was going (147K) but now I think it might be the radiator is bad....
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Ok, I just bought myself some problems in the form of a '93 Celica GTS. (5S-FE)
Well, alright, that's a little dramatic. it just overheats. but here's my issue. it's got a new water pump, new radiator, and is still overheating. The guy I bought from says it's in the block, cuased by an attempt to plug a radiator leak with stop leak. He said it just had a minor leak in the radiator, so he put stop leak in it, and after that it started overheating. he's replaced the thermostat, water pump, and radiator since then.
My first question is, could he (and I) be overlooking something? could there be a clog somewhere easier to access? and then if there isn't, how should I go about cleaning out the block? are there areas I should check? anything I should do to try to unclog it? my current plan is to put cooling system flush in (he has some) and drive it home (about 55min. drive) with the flush in it, then empty it and hope for the best.
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My Town & County started running hot.. sometimes... I first replace the thermostat, but still ran hot. But I never saw any indication in the engine compartment of overheating or bubbly fluid or such, so I took it to the dealer, where at first it ran fine. Then started running hot, they were confused because the lower hose was a lower Temp then the upper hose so they wanted to take the water pump off and look at it. I asked if they verified that the engine was actually running hot, I also questioned them about the lower hose temp, because I think if its working right it should be a lower temp. They said would check both items.
Then they called back and said they thought I had a blocked radiator (no mention of the water pump) and wanted $900 to put a new one in. Got van back, drove it home and check the radiator and there were some cold spots and hot spots in the radiator. Called local radiator place and they suggested I flush it. I did, it ran perfect for 1.5 days and now overheats again. Now most of the Radiator is cold to the touch just around the edges is hot. the upper hose is hotter than the lower hose and is hot all the way to the radiator (maybe not as hot at the radiator as by the thermostat.Question: Bad Radiator or Bad Water Pump?
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You will get wet but not scalded but is nice to get it done and not that hard. (revised).
1; Pull the cap, bottom hose, and open the petcock on a cold engine.
2; Remove the thermostat with a 10mm socket (easy) and put the housing back on lightly.
3; Install garden hose in top and turn on full blast, and turn the heater on.
4; Start the engine, grab the hanging bottom hose and push it onto the bottom radiator neck about 1/4", wait a couple minutes until the garden hose overflows at the top of the plastic radiator chamber. (yes you will get wet), pull the bottom hose loose, repeat 3-4 times until the dirty water is scavenged from the block and rad. (important step).
5; Shut off water at garden hose, stop the engine, replace the bottom hose and replace the thermostat with the 195 degree one (stock) if it hasn't been done lately. (they don't last and work well forever) The rubber O-ring goes on the top.
6; Start the engine and run the garden hose at the top the same speed as the water is coming out the petcock at the bottom. Note how clear the water is coming out and idle the engine until is runs clear. (about 10 minutes). The water might get hot at this time but you're not under the truck at this point.
7; Stop the engine, close the petcock, remove the heater hose from the front of the intake manifold, put 3 to 4 gallons of undiluted antifreeze in (50% undiluted antifreeze 50/50 will give you a range of 34 degrees BELOW zero to +265 degrees F) , fill with distilled water until the water comes out the pipe fitting on the manifold, replace hose, fill to line, and check the level every day for the next 2-3 days.
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1991 Toyota Celica 2.2 liter standard water is boiling in upper radiator hose what could be the possible cause of this problem I have changed radiator and cap, water pump, radiator hoses and have flushed the system. could crossed hoses from engine to heater control valve and heater core cause this problem?The head has been checked and no exhaust gas was found in radiator fluid ...
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First off new jetta owner. I changed the thermostat. There is no heat coming into the car upper radiator hose hot lower hose is cold & seems there is no pressure. I bought the book to repair the car but it doesn't give me troubleshooting directions other than it might be the water pump or a blockage in the radiator.
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I'm driving a 97 Accord SE and it's suffering from a few issues that have me worried to say the least. For one, when I filled the radiator with water I noticed that it was cloudy/oily. Something was definitely in there with the water.
Two, I foolishly drove it thinking it would be fine. After 50 feet or so however problems started happening. I couldn't accelerate past 20mph. If I tried by putting my foot down on the gas nothing would happen but the RPMs going up. Each time I started the car I could go a little ways before pushing on the gas did nothing. Then I would have to restart the car in order to get anywhere with it.
Some background, I got my oil changed today after going about 1000 miles over when it should have been changed. Also, when it was scanned in the past the error code 0420 showed up. That has something to do with either the catalytic converter running rich or the O2 sensors above and below it might be broken.
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My friend's 04 Sebring (6cyl) is overheating. After start up, almost immediately the water bubbles in the radiator and heat builds. He has replaced the radiator, thermostat, water pump, and even rebuilt the heads - still the overheating issue. What may be the problem and how to correct?
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I am new to working on cars. SO i think my water pump went out on my 1991 celica gts, there is a large water leak where the bottom hose from the radiator connects to the what i presume is the water pump or thermostat, need to know if I am on the right track...
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After sitting on a steep driveway for three years, no starting done all that time,I filled all tanks, started it up, drove it on and off 8 times for 50 miles, air in top radiator tank along with rusty water, dare we flush the system being 280k miles old with 40k on new radiator/ also is there a socklike screen over the fuelpump in the tank that may need cleaning to start quicker than two to three starter attempts?
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I've got a 7.3 tranny that has had ELC Coolant and water mixed in with tranny fluid because of a bad radiator. I drained the fluid from the tranny a week ago and when I pulled off the pan today there is still junk in there. I'm planning on putting in a new filter, gasket and Mercon V but how do I clean the old stuff out of there? Picture.....
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I bought this truck an it ran good then one day it started knocking really bad so i replaced the crank shaft an bearings. Put everything back together started the truck an it ran like crap an i just happened to check the oil an it is milky. All the water in y radiator is now in the motor oil an truck has no power...
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I have a 76 f250/460 engine. I have replaced the hoses, belts, water pump, fan clutch, flowed the radiator and it still overheats.
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1987 Celica ST
3sfe
auto trans
Last week the rad cooling fan stopped working. The fan itself is fine. It spins when connected directly to the batt. Relay tested good, and fuse isn't blown. I unplugged the temp. switch connector, and grounded it to the batt. to test the circuit, and nothing. Switched on the A/C, and both fans spin. So, where else should I look for the problem?
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Having lived through this scenario, I can only relate what happened to me. The transmission fluid/antifreeze mixture (which was a frothy pink color) was forced out of the overflow tank on the radiator, and the car drove a few miles before there was no more fluid in the transmission and the car stopped moving. We replaced the radiator and flushed it a couple of times to try and get out the transmission fluid, and I did a drain and fill on the transmission every week for a few months to try and get out the antifreeze, since I heard it is very corrosive to the seals in the transmission. So far, I have not had to replace the transmission. This happened on a 2005 Honda Pilot, and it would appear that the transmission is built from the tears of unicorns, stardust, and unobtainium, given the price to replace it.
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How do you remove the transmission lines from the radiator. I have to replace the radiator and don't want to mess up the lines.
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