Infiniti - I30 :: Starter Clicking When Turn The Key / Car Doesn't Sound Like Cranking Or Even Trying To Start
Mar 30, 2016
I drive an Infiniti i30. When I bought it, the guy who sold it to me told me that the car runs great but that I would have to turn the key kind of hard to get the car started. Over time, this problem has progressively gotten worse. There have been times where I'd be stuck in a parking lot for over an hour trying to get the car to start. When I turn the key, I can hear the starter clicking, and all of the dash lots and radio will come on but the car doesn't sound like its cranking or even trying to start. The weirdest thing is that the first time I drive my car in the morning it starts up just fine. It's once I turn the car off after driving somewhere and try to start it again that I have problems. I'll have to turn the key 100 times or more sometimes to get it to start if its not the first time of the day. What this could be?
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This past winter I started having trouble with my '06 Santa Fe where I would turn the key to start my car and nothing would happen. No cranking, no clicking, no sound. My lights turn on fine, radio, everything else works just fine. Sometimes it won't start for 30+ minutes, and sometimes I'll just try a second time and it'll start up right away.
Last winter when this happened my check engine light came on and so I took it to the dealership and they said it was the crank position sensor that needed replaced. For whatever reason I didn't get it fixed and have been driving my car with no problems whatsoever for 10 months or so, until this weekend when my no start issues started again. The check engine light is on again and it's the same code for the crank position sensor.
I believe I will definitely get the crank sensor fixed this time, but could the issue possibly be anything else? Bad starter? Ignition switch? My mechanic can't give me a definite answer because every time I take it to the shop it starts up just fine for him.
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I have am 1999 Infiniti i30t. My car will not crank/start up. When I turn the key there is only a clicking sound. But the car lights & hazard lights do work. What I think I'm hearing is the alternator when I try to start it. We have tried to jump start it, no success. Jump starting the battery got it going but it would only last about 5 minutes before it was dead again. When I turn the key there is just a clicking sound.
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RE: FORD PROBE GL (non-turbo). Last week suddenly car wouldn't start Thurs. night. Cranked but would not turn over. Heard click at ignition switch area when key turned to start position. (Although I could only hear one click from inside the vehicle with windows shut, I was told that clicks audible under the hood from standing outside.) Tried jump starting (from a good battery using proper connections) unsuccessfully, repeated tries several minutes apart, allowing longer and longer time to charge. About every third attempt, instead of cranking sounds, I would get silence, with only the click audible.
Temperatures decreased from approximately 50s to 20s when symptoms began.Battery is old but tests good/replace soon: 330+ CCA at 43 degrees, original rating CCA 530 (silver battery now at 7 years. Will replace, but garage did not have required size 56). At that point, the amps gauge read at the low end of the normal range (and today it read mid-way in the normal range).Had car towed to garage on Friday. Mechanic looked at on Saturday and decided it was the inertia switch, which he said had "tripped".I watched video for technicians on inertia switch but it shows on newer Fords. Mine is not located at the kick panel and does not have a red button on top. I am not certain from my experience whether the reset button would actually be in a different position when tripped or he merely surmised that is what had happened, despite my telling the shop manager that I had not so much as bumped a curb. Also, the trunk was not slammed or even opened prior to the car not starting.
Car presumably started fine at mechanic when they pulled it into the garage to put air in tires and back out to the lot, as well as when I started it to drive home on Sunday. However, on Tuesday it would not start. Just in case, I depressed inertia switch reset and tried cranking again several times, giving it some gas, until I was actually pumping it vigorously in desperation as a last resort (several seconds turning key each time), and on about the 5th try, the engine began to catch just as I was releasing the key. Reset the inertia switch one more time (just in case), and after a couple more attempts, it finally started, but when I was going in reverse to back out and then putting in gear to start out in first gear, for about 15 seconds total, I heard a bizarre loud, fairly high-pitched whistle/whine type of sound that seemed to come from under the hood coming through the central area of the dash where the radio is located.
Drove about 5 miles to my job, and about 2 hours later was able to start the car on the first try. Lately usually driven relatively short distances of 2-4 miles, with a longer drive of 11 miles broken up into 6 miles + 5 miles on the return trip the night before this started happening.
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2001 6.8 Ex wouldn't start again today Get a loud click but starter doesn't turn over. Yesterday jumped it, took it to Advance where they checked battery and alternator; both checked out great. To start it this morning I ran my negative jumper from battery to engine block and it fired up It's about 12 degrees out and was same yesterday. Thinking dirty/bad ground somewhere ? Do I just start following the negative cable everywhere it goes or am I missing something here No garage and it is chilly.
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I drove my '02 Camry last night to a restaurant and when I came out it would not start. I have never had any problems with my Camry. I have a new strong battery.
All the lights, bells, radio, a/c, door locks, dash lights came on and work fine. There was no clicking sound of the starter. It would not turn over at all. NO SOUND AT ALL. I did move the shifter handle several times thinking it may have been the kill switch on the shifter.
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For the past year I have had intermittent start issues with my LS that occur about 15 percent of the time. Ambient or engine temperature do not make a difference. Sometimes the starter engages but then disengages right away. I then need to depress the start button an additional time or two before it actually starts. At other times the starter engages and continues cranking while the engine sounds like it is trying to start (like it is just barely keeping ahead of the starter speed). That carries on for several seconds and then it starts. Nothing shows on diagnostics and the dealer says I am going to have to wait until there is a complete "no start" before they can trouble shoot. There was a similar issue with earlier 460 models but the Lexus service tech said that problem does not apply to the 2011's. It seems there is a lack of fuel delivery but from what point? And why only intermittent and momentary?
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Just got my new work truck a '12 EB. This morning it was about 9 degrees and I jumped in and turned the key. The dash screen went out and the radio display went out then cycled back on but the starter didn't crank. I tried 2 more times with the same result. Then I just let the key in the on position for about 10 seconds and then I turned the key and it started right up. I stopped at several places and every time I went to start it it cranked and fired up the first try. Now tonight the truck has been sitting for 7 hours and it is 12 degrees, it took several tries before it cranked.
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I have a 2013 GS350 F sport with 56k miles. It was running fine yesterday, but today it wouldn't start. The engine keeps cranking but does not start. When you first try to start it, several lights come on, but after a few seconds they go away, but these lights remain on (see picture below). My advisor from Lexus said the light with the steering wheel and ! is for the power steering system.
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I have a 1982 Chevy C30 pickup with an ignition problem. When it's really cold out, 15 degrees or colder, it won't start. When I turn the key, it feels like I'm turning a piece of clay. There is NO cranking, clicking or any sound made. The accessories won't work either. The last time this happened, I heated the ignition tumbler with a heat gun and the truck started. It started one time after that. Then on a warm day it started once; then wouldn't restart. I turn the key and nothing. It had to be towed. I wondering if the problem is the ignition tumbler, where I put the key, or the ignition switch, which is located near the bottom of the steering column.
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It's a no crank, no start issue. Battery is only a few months old and tests fine (800CCA,) starter is only 2 months old and we've pulled it out a couple times to have it tested and it's fine. Positive and negative battery cables are also fairly new (last spring.) I've tested pretty much every fuse and relay in the truck that had to do with the starter, etc. My brother has tested the resistance on most of the cables and wires (battery cables, alternator, starter, etc.) Anti-Theft has been tested as well.
Now, here's the odd part. When the key is turned, the starter clicks, but it doesn't turn the engine... at all. About the only thing I haven't tested is to see if the engine is locked up (which would really, really suck.) Now, this is an L76, 6.0L engine. It has D.O.D and variable valve timing, so the issues may be different than the 5.3 or 4.8.
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I have a 1996 Chevy Cheyenne pickup with a fuel injected small block that has 50k miles. Earlier this summer the truck developed a problem where it is very hard to start when cold (after sitting overnight or after sitting for many hours on my flat driveway). When the engine is cold (say the first start of the day) I can only get it to start by giving small bursts of cranking power to the starter. That is, it won’t start if I hold the key in the cranking position but is more likely to start if I give it a short burst of cranking power (when I hold the key in “start” position) for a second or two.After the first start of the day, the engine runs fine and subsequent starts are quick and normal. The “Check Engine” light is not on and there are no trouble codes…. Other than hard starting there are no issues with engine performance.
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I just purchased an 07 RX 350 with a salvage title. I'm going to fix it up and drive it but I'm trying to figure out why it won't start. It was hit in the front driver side corner, bent the radiator support and crushed the bumper and head light, but that is about the extent of the damage. I tried charging the battery and I get power inside and the other headlight seems very bright, but when I try to turn it over, I can hear what I think is the fuel pump engage but the engine doesn't turn over and there is no noise from the starter. Is there a sensor or something that would be stopping it?
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So my 1.6 accent (140,000) decided to no longer start. Just keeps cranking but doesn't ignite. Plugged a scanner in and it's the crankshaft position sensor. How difficult is this to get to? From what I've ready its just held on one end by a 10mm bolt and the older end is just a connector, but it looks like it might be in a pain in the ass location. Does anything need to be taken off first to access? Should this take less than 30 min?
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It was having trouble turning over for a few weeks, getting progressively worse, but we just didn't have time to look it over. Well, it finally died--now if I turn the key a couple times we got a grinding noise but mostly just nothing at all. The lights, radio, etc all turn on though so we were sure it wasn't the battery. Thinking it was the starter, we pulled that out and took it down to Advanced Auto Parts, but they ran a test on it and said it was still good. So we put that back in the car and brought them the battery instead--they tested it and said it was charging and holding voltage but not amperage, and that, that would mean the lights and things could come on but it wouldn't have enough kick to actually start the car.
So, we bought a new battery, went home, and popped it in. Still, nothing. My friend says it's not the alternator because with a fully charged battery the car would start even if the alternator wasn't right (and would just die in a couple days, at which point you'd know you needed to replace the alternator) and my car's still not starting. The last thing we tried before we gave up for the moment last night was checking fuses in the driver's side of the car and also under the hood, the handful we thought could be related to the starter, alternator, and/or battery, but they all looked good.
The only other thing I read about online with Infinitis was that if the security system was activated it wouldn't start, however, while I noticed the light for it is flashing which I'm not sure if that was normal before or not, I THINK if it is activated it would be solid red, and at any rate, I tried what I read online to unlock it (put key forward for 5 seconds, then off, repeat 2 more times, then try to start) and that didn't do anything either.
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I have a 96 toyota camry that won't start. when i turn the key, the starter clicks but doesn't turn. I replaced the starter and it works fine (as does the one i took out). the battery was obviously checked and is charged. When I hook up the starter to the leads and its not in the engine it doesn't turn (in other words, its not a locked engine). I replaced one of the fuses in the starting relay and it didn't make a difference. So the problem is between the battery and the starter - the starter isn't getting enough power (if i take it to an autoparts store it works when hooked up to their system but doesn't work (but makes a click) when hooked up to the car.
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So I left my car running ran into a store came out it had turned off so went to start it it and it wouldn't turn over all you could hear was clicking from the starter so had a guy boost it and engine turned over and started just fine but i had no power to anything I couldn't even take the tranny outta park? So i left it sitting for about an hour went back and it fired up just fine? Had battery tested and it was fully charged. Also when car is off and I am inside my interior lights flash on and off as well as there's a beeping like every 5 to 10 minutes.
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Neighbor bought a 91 tracker. We put a new battery and alternator in it. We have to jump the vehicle to get it to start. While running with the light on, the lights are extremely dim. Sometimes the vehicle will start again, but most times it won't. What I mean by it won't start is nothing happens when you turn the key. No clicking starter does not engage. Sometime the car will not stay running with out charger attached. Then again sometimes everything is fine.
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I have a Chevy Tahoe 1999, Went to the store came out my Tahoe wouldn't start i had it towed home. My husband said the starter was clicking but wasn't getting enough power to turn the flywheel. We got a new starter put it on and it clicked just like it did when i tried to start it before. We took the new starter back and had the old one tested and it was ok so we put it back on and it still clicked like before. He said the flywheel was easy to turn, then he replaced the hot wire from the battery to the starter, now the starter don't even click.
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I have a 2006 Honda Civic Sedan with 214,000 miles on it. I have a starter that is less than a year old, a new battery and the battery cables have just been cleaned and inspected. My batter and alternator tested fine. Occasionally (always in the morning) my car won't start. There is no noise, cranking or clicking. All the lights are operational with no dimming. However, today I put the car in neutral and it started right up (after not starting for three tries.)
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Alright, so my battery is fully charged and there's water in it. When I turn they key, there is a rapid mechanical clicking clearly coming from the starter area, but no attempt to turn over. Stuck solenoid? Bad starter relay? Bad starter? Missing teeth on the flywheel? Seized engine? The Mayan calendar apocalypse?
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