Infiniti - I30 :: Rattling Sound Usually Occurs When Above 2000 RPM
Jul 11, 2012
I'm hearing a disconcerting sound coming from my car as of late. It's a rattling sound, almost as if someone were shaking a can of spray paint at the same frequency as the engine. It doesn't strike me as being a heat shield, it's a heavier rattling, not really a buzz.
The sound usually occurs when I am above 2000 RPM, however, it does not match an RPM range or the car's speed—it seems more closely associated with the position of the gas pedal—about halfway to 3/4. It does not make the sound unless the car is in gear and moving.
On cold starts, the engine fires and runs, but then takes up to 30-40 seconds to really get going at a normal RPM. Efforts to coax it with the gas pedal are delayed by a second or two before they kick in...
The car is a 2001 model, and has 44,000 miles.
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2011 infiniti. new rear rotors/pads 6k miles ago. now there is a rhythmic sound with very slow speed braking. like a bad spot on 1 rotor. you hear a grind, stop, grind, stop. its not a constant grind sound. i looked at both rear rotors thru rim slots. rotors look perfect. very smooth. i have not pulled wheels to check. i am thinking rotors making sound vs pads making sound. but why would a rotor have an odd spot or rough patch? there is no ridge at all on rotors. cant see the pads rubbing on some rust ridge? there is none....
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This just started today while driving home from work, not quite sure how to describe the sound, kinda like a mini jack hammer or rocks in a tumbler (attached video with sound). The weird part is: My car runs well aside from the sound, and the sound goes away when actually driving, only occurs when in park, or stopped. [URL]... (under hood) [URL] ..... (under car)
Opened the hood and jacked up the car to try and find the cause of the noise, sounded like it was coming from the engine, or just underneath (there is a box on the underside, not quite sure what it is, but the sound seems to be louder near there).
On a side note, checked my oil, it's not low. And tried playing around with the pipe leading to the exhaust to see if it was lose - nothing.
Was involved in a hit and run just over 2 weeks ago (front left headlight was smashed, and fender was dented). I'm not sure if that has anything to do with whats happening now.
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I recently traded in my old '96 Infiniti for this great 2001 PT Cruiser. It drives great ,,mileage is at 76K and in very good condition .. except for this. Whenever I am driving and going over minor or major bumps I get a lot of loose RATTLING, clacking noise from the front end. Obviously from the tires bouncing up and down. Is this typical for this particular PT? I remember having that in an old Jeep of mine too. Very boxy sounding in the front.
My wife and I had traded both of our cars in..2009 Versa for a 2013 Chevy Sonic--1996 infiniti for a 2001 PT Cruiser
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I own a 2003 Nissan Maxima SE with a 6-speed manual transmission. The car has just under 113,000 miles on it. I've religiously maintained the vehicle per the owner's manual and overall it is in excellent condition. In particular, we change the oil on a regular basis per the maintenance schedule. However, on several occasions we have started to hear rattling coming from the engine. The rattling occurs at all engine speeds and in all gears and it doesn't matter whether the car has just been started or if the engine has been running for a while.
When the rattling has gotten more prominent, we've taken the car to the dealership and also to our local oil change place and on both of those occasions, they've told us that the engine oil was VERY low. Also on both of those occasions, we were well within the recommended range in between oil changes (<3000-3500 miles). We have not noticed leaking oil in our driveway or in our garage. I am wondering about the potential reasons why we could be losing oil, and if we aren't seeing any in our driveway where it's going? I've mentioned this to friends and they've said it's 'burning oil' - but we're not noticing any strange smells or smoke. The car is ~10 years old but it's fun to drive and in great condition.
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Tis the first of "Squeaks and Creeks" from me. Not really the best thing to hear, sitting at ~24K miles. Anyways, until (if) i can get a sound clip, I have this metallic rattle that only occurs about 1-3 mins after i start the car. This just started happening yesterday, and nothing out of the ordinary happened.
I start the engine, hear a raspy rattle from what sounds like under the engine, and if i give it some throttle it increases some, but not to the point where it sounds like something is banging around. It goes away after a few minutes so it could be anything. Shifts are still smooth, driving and getting on the gas does not fix nor make it worse, either in neutral or actually rolling. It simply goes away with 3 minutes time or so. It seems to have a limit for how much 'rattle' it gives off, and its something I can accept.
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I have got a hyundai accent and I was getting a really annoying rattling sound from the boot i have been looking every where to find it and today i have sust it out if you open your boot up and just drive it round the block and it does not rattle then its probably the same problem that i had its the catch that the boot locks on to they must of been a bit of a gap to it and the metal was rattling together on the clip and the lock all u have to do to fix the problem is open your boot up then on clip on the car that the boot locks on to simple apply some installation tape around it so its pretty thick but not to much close your boot and problem solved it should be ok mine is fine now back to silence again now instead of a annoying rattle when driving.
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2000 Honda Odyssey - from inside the van, we have a rattle sound that seems to come from the climate control system. Leaves have been cleaned out, rattle went away for 3-4 days then came back. Rattle is while system is on or off, warm or cold engine. Sound is like a hamster wheel or maybe boiling water.
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I have an Infiniti i35 with about 150,000 miles that has a grinding sound that the car makes when the car is in motion. If I come to a stop, it goes away. When I start to move, the sound comes back very slowly and increases with speed. The noise doesn't go up but the grinding just goes faster. On the interstate, the steering wheel shakes a little and I can feel the gas pedal shaking too. What could this be?
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I have a 2007 XLE-V6, bought new 10/2006, 39,500mi., and recently I had the issue of the bursting oil line that others have been having. Prior to that happening, I have been hearing a noise from the engine since the beginning of December. The noise is a ticking sound/knocking sound that occurs as I accelerate in 1,2, and 3rd gear on cold starts. This noise persists up until the time the engine reaches its ideal operating temperature, and then it just goes away.
The engine "expert" at my local dealership drove in it with me, and it only happens when the vehicle is in drive, not when idling or in reverse, so it has to be in the drivetrain somewhere. He said it shouldn't be a problem, since it does go away, but it's infuriating to hear it every morning and afternoon when I start my car.
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I've got a 2000 Infiniti Qx4 that I can NOT get to pass inspection. I replaced the engine at 130,000 miles, and since then I've had nothing but problems. I live in TN and I've got to pass emissions testing. The car drives/runs great, no problems. I'm down to code P1105 or something, MAP/solenoid valve... Or maybe it was P10107 or something. Anyways it means the MAF sensor is malfunctioning or I've got bad hoses or electrical connections near the intake. So I replace the MAF. Nope, check engine light still on. I replace the clips on the hoses for the MAF. Nope, still on. I check all the wires n all the hoses. Nope, light still on. Now my mechanic is going on about I might have a bad computer or it might not have accepted the new engine as it was from a different year (still a 3.3L V6 standard of the prior to 2001 model)? My mechanic has been at it for over 2 weeks trying all kinds of stuff but to no avail.
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My 2000 Infiniti QX4 has 145,000 miles. It starts fine but when i press the gas when going from a stop position it has little power.There is an hesitation and then it moves very slowly even if the gas pedal is depress all the way. Once it gets to 20 or 30 miles it moves okay. The problem is only present when going from stop. Due to the lack of acceleration, I am reluctant to drive it on the highway because of the risk of a slow merger...
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Very strange problem for me especially since it's not my car, belongs to my sister. Only code that was set last month indicated the MAF so I cleaned it and the car ran fine. Started to hesitate up hills (steep uphill driveway) so I replaced the fuel filter yesterday and my sister said it drove just fine uphill. Now it stalls whenever put into drive, no codes set and none pending. It will idle in reverse but not in drive.
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My Phaeton has recently developed a single clunking sound that occurs at low speed, either when braking, or when turning the steering wheel towards the right about 90. The clunk can be felt at the drivers footwell area too.
All four upper control arm bushings were replaced a few months ago and the antiroll bar links are pretty new too.
I have not identified exactly where the noise is coming from, but by placing my hand on all suspension components it seems that the clunk is most felt at the front left rear lower arm. Hence I am wondering if the bushing or the whole arm may need replacement.
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I just bought a new 2012 Golf 2.5L (base model) last weekend and noticed a THUMP THUMP THUMP sound. Only occurs in the first minute or so of driving, and only when the car starts cold (hasn't been driven for 10+ hours).
Continues to occur if I entirely stop the car (haven't tried turning engine off though...) Sounds like it comes from around the rear passenger-side suspension area. Somewhat irregular THUMP sound. Pretty loud, especially if I get out of the car and go to the rear wheel area. It doesn't occur at a constant rate, it's more like: THUMP THUMP THUMPTHUMPTHUMP THUMP THUMP ...
What's going on here?
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I drive an Infiniti i30. When I bought it, the guy who sold it to me told me that the car runs great but that I would have to turn the key kind of hard to get the car started. Over time, this problem has progressively gotten worse. There have been times where I'd be stuck in a parking lot for over an hour trying to get the car to start. When I turn the key, I can hear the starter clicking, and all of the dash lots and radio will come on but the car doesn't sound like its cranking or even trying to start. The weirdest thing is that the first time I drive my car in the morning it starts up just fine. It's once I turn the car off after driving somewhere and try to start it again that I have problems. I'll have to turn the key 100 times or more sometimes to get it to start if its not the first time of the day. What this could be?
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So I have a 2014 VW GTI 4DR 6speed with 25,000 miles on her now and I am getting this weird noise from what i believe is the front end right wheel?
The noise is similar to a rubbing / humming sound that occurs below 10MPH and then increases with repetition at say above 60MPH. I notice a little harder of a rubbing when wheel is turned at say when i pull out from a stop sign!
ALL that i have done was put on hubcentric spacers and that i pulled off to see if noise stopped but it didn't! Could the supplied bolts be to long? I had removed dust caps on rear for clean fitment and sanded any imperfections on all hubs.
The noise isn't loud at all but is definitely noticeable with radio off and windows up!
Could this be a wheel balance issue? Tie rod or arm? Bent RIM?
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My 2005 Santa Fe w/ 2.7L V6 started a strange symptom recently. Not always but often after its been turned off for awhile when I turn the key to the on position you can hear a fairly loud rushing noise while you inside the vehicle. With the heater/blower/radio and everything else turned off you can hear what sounds like fluid rushing or growling noise when you turn the key to the on position before starting the engine. It times off after a few seconds about the same interval as the fuel pump run time. It sounds just like fluid gushing and everyone inside the cabin can noticeably hear it.
Now I realize the the fuel tank and the fuel pump assembly are positioned under the vehicle in the same area as the back seat and I believe the access plate to the fuel pump assembly is directly under the drivers side backseat's bottom cushion. So it makes sense that any noise inside the fuel tank would be noticeable from inside the cabin. So far the vehicle has no drivability issues. But intermittently after the vehicle has been off for awhile the noise reappears at key on position. It sounds as if when the key is turned to the on position the fuel pump priming is causing turbulence and flushing fuel around in the tank. Yet it starts and drives normally. I've had this vehicle since it was brand new and I know of many issues that these Santa Fe's have but this new to me.
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I have a 2010 Subaru Outback that is making a sound that sounds like glass bottles clinking. It occurs when accelerating around 20mph and/or around 40 mph. Can really hear it when there is a load like going up a hill at these slow spends. Dealership did a lot of flushing and lubricating and new filters etc, but that wasn't it. Also replaced my heat shield (yikes$) but that wasn't it. Then they had me run a tank of 93 octane and they didn't fix, so put in a bottle of engine cleaner and it didn't work either.
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2012 Camry SE 4 cyl, 56K miles ... Happens in all gears, in normal and sport mode “under light acceleration” at 1600-2000 rpm.
Sitting in driver’s seat I hear a drone which sounds similar to the engine lugging we hear briefly at around 1000 RPM. In the 1600-2000 RPM range it is very annoying because this is the cruising range on highways. Sometime when going up a slight incline it can be felt through the accelerator.
When seating in back seat on passenger’s side, it sounds similar to a bad muffler/resonator and is very audible. Spring loaded exhaust couplings in front of muffler and between front pipe and converter are not seized. All rubber hangers are there. Installed “B-quiet” sound absorber in trunk going from spare tire well over top of muffler and up rear quarter panel which did not work. Nothing is touching the exhaust under the car.
When idling the exhaust produces a noticeable putt-putt sound. Toyota rep (not dealer) went for a ride with me and feels it is typical of a car “for this mileage” (same as dealer told me). I stated it did not do it before and was told cars wear in and after a while characteristics change.
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A clunk sound coming from the front end. Drivers side and Passenger side. Not really a metal on metal sound. The problem started after coilover install. The sound occurs while braking and accelerating over bumps. So what I've replaced:
-Strut Mounts and Bearings
-Lower control arm bushings (R32 bushings)
-Drivers Side CV axle
What I've checked:
-Tie rod ends have no play
-Ball joints have no play.
-I have no sway bar, so not the sway bar bushings.
-Its not the axle hitting the frame.
Could possibly be the dog bone mount but when I installed the 1' motor mounts I saw no issue but could possibly be the bushing. feel the clunk in my foot as well.
MK4 2000 Jetta 2.0 5speed With Raceland Ultimo Coilovers (Junk)
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