Infiniti - I30 :: Distinct Knock From The Bottom Of The Car
Oct 27, 2011
My Infiniti I30, 2000 model, has been great for so many years. I got 245,000 miles on it and seems that it will go for another 245000. But, since last 15 days, I can feel a distinct knock from the bottom of the car ( it feels so). This happens after about 30 minutes of driving and I can feel and hear the knock when the car is stopped at a light or stop sign. The sound comes like every few seconds at uneven pace. I cannot hear it when car is moving. My mechanic changed the Air intake sensor ( pretty expensive) but the problem still persists. I put super unleaded and also STP engine treatment. The problem continues. Car is working fine otherwise.
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A buddy of mine has a late 2000 passat 2.8. He recently developed a bad knocking at higher RPM's. I took a look at it and it is coming from the bottom end of the motor (rod bearing, crank bearing?) He has no loss of power and the knock is not there at idle.
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I've got a 97 truck, broke the crank, swapped in a motor from an 07. Heads down is 07, intake up is 97. had heads planed and a valve job with new seals done. Left it alone from the rings down. Got it in this weekend, running today. Ran it in the driveway with no load for about 30 minutes, top end was noisy for about 5 minutes till the top end got good and oily (I'm assuming). Purred like a kitten, sounded real smooth. Took it for a drive around the block, heard the clatter in the video below. It's almost always there when driving. Brought it back, turned it off to check oil, it was a quart low. Added oil, startup was VERY labored with a real hard knock in the bottom end. Ran like poo till I gave it some throttle for a couple seconds, then it cleaned up and idled well. Let it run for a couple minutes, turned off and let it sit for a couple minutes then started back up, same thing. Very labored with hard knocking.
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I recently bought a 2005 F150 King Ranch. I had a 900km drive to get it home but only mad it half way and am now stuck. I was stalling every time I came to a stop and eventually lost oil pressure. This is when I stopped driving and took it in. The shop said it had a knock in the lower end and stopped diagnosing it there. I can now sell it for parts and take a big hit or I can try and patch it myself.
I am assuming based on my symptoms it is a spun rod/main/thrust bearing. The mechanic was not very supportive to narrow it down to anything other than replace the motor.
How many km might I get out of this engine if I pull the motor and replace only the crank and rod/main/thrust bearings. This will not be my daily driver so if I can get another 50000-100000 km off of that, then it will last me at least 5 years.
This is of course assuming that when pull it apart I do not find an other major problems such as bent or broken pistons and rods or scoured cylinder walls. I am not that experienced of a mechanic, so I am not that confident about pulling the heads off and rebuilding the whole thing.
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Ok so it was 93 degrees and quite humid...guess around 65-70%, in Dallas. I got the fogging problem with 3 distinct circles on the windshield. I tried several settings.
Keeping the front dash (eye level) and feet level vents on seems to work abit. Keep the air away and from going to the windshield.
Then if it still fogs up...Hitting the 2 "Recir" buttons alternatively seems to work.
This may not work in FL , VW needs a better fix than just sealing those vents and stopping airflow to the windshield completely.
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I just picked up a 20th and it seems when it's running and parked i get this very distinct rattling noise from somewhere in my engine bay. I go to put the clutch down and it stops, as soon as i lay off the clutch it comes back (almost humming) could it maybe be the trans?
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When I shift under heavy boost (stage 1), there is a very distinct noise, imagine sucking in super fast, to the point where it kind of mid pitch moans, and speed it up to only a bit of a second. Its very hard to explain! is this a normal noise? or should I be removing the DV asap?
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After replacement of the transmission, there is a distinct smell of gas/petrol, on starting the car after it has sat overnight. Other work done at the same time was replacement of all coils and plugs and air filters.
The car has 69K miles and is a V8. The dealer has checked fuel lines etc and found nothing. The car is in excellent condition and had no issues before the transmission failed.
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I have a 2006 honda accord with about 65k miles on it. Off late, i have been hearing a distinct whirring sound when i turn the key on. this sound gets louder as and when i accelerate and fades out.
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Started happening yesterday. If I start the car I get 3 very distinct clunking sounds that I can also feel in both the clutch pedal and brake pedal. Then the car runs fine. No other issues I can find while driving, even driving a little aggressive. Then when I shut off the car I get the same clunking/shaking that I can feel in the pedals and hear. Sounds like something is broken but I can't figure out what. Only happens as the engine goes from 0 to idle or idle or 0.
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I have been working on all my wheels new pads and new ball joints in the front top and bottom. So when I am braking now I can hear a distinct whining sound kind of like a crapped out automatic tranny. I drive a manual so not my problem. I would assume a standard brake bleed will fix? The pedal is a bit spongy but it still stops like it should. I also have a grinding when I drive pretty sure it is unrelated just the backing plate touching the rotor I think.....
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Go drive around with windows down and in D accelerate normally through 3rd gear then begin to stop and let the trans start downshifting itself. At the end of the 3/2 and the 2/1 downshifts, do you hear a distinct click. You shouldn't have to try to hard to hear it if you have it. drivers window down and radio off I hear it, every time.
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So my drivers side wiper is leaving 3 distinct lines across the screen. It sort of looks like something is being dragged across the screen in the rain even though the wipers are clean.
Like this (except only 3 lines):
Anyway, I changed the wiper refill on the driver's side regardless but it still does the same thing. What it could be? Its not the refills as they are brand new.
Another thing - I used RainX and the wipers have removed it where the 3 lines are (which is why they are showing up as lines).
The 3 lines are exactly where the clips for the OEM plastic housing is which hold the rubber refill.
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I went for a hour drive tonight after i brought car back to garage i could smell a distinct odor of anti freeze or fumes that would exit the radiator. I checked under the car no leak i looked in the engine compartment looking for perhaps a spill of antifreeze that might be resting on top of the front engine pan. I could not find any liquid.
The temp gauge when i was driving was a bit below mid way it usually as I remember is there or a bit lower. Where the smell is coming from I had the heat on for a bit in the car while top was down and i have no leaks in the interior of the car . The car is a 2005 I have 5940 miles on it . I bought it new in 2005 and I only drive it in good weather and on weekends .
I have not had any major service since the mileage is so low other then state inspections oil and filter regular changes done once a year Mobil 1 . Should I consider flushing the radiator and changing the anti freeze. As I said I don't drive it on long runs but I do use it a bit around town. When I lift the hood i can smell the anti freeze but cant find any.
What to look for. The coolant overflow reservoir cover was in place and all hoses looked good and there was some residual coolant in the tank as there should be and i could not see any steam or vapor coming off these parts.
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Since the Prius is my wife's primary car, I can go a long time without driving. I recently have been driving it more, and it seems to me that it has the sounds of a failing wheel bearing. Between about 30-40 MPH there seems to be a distinct rotational noise that sounds to me like a loud wheel bearing from the front end. The sound seems to get quieter as I go faster, and at 60 mph + it seems normal.
My wife didn't notice any difference, but she drives the car everyday so maybe she didn't notice the gradual increase in noise. I know it's not tire related, because I just swapped tires. When I did, I didn't feel any play in the front bearings or feel any roughness when the wheels were rotated.
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I have owned this car from new and it currently has 32k miles. The only fuel used has been 85 octane or occasionally a tank of 93 octane. There is a distinct hesitation when accelerating from speeds of 10 to 15 mph and I do not believe it is due to the transmission shifting. I did move to my current state,California, from Pennsylvania and was told by my local Hyundai dealer service department that because California has a different gasoline formulation from most other states as well as a summer and winter blend to reduce emissions it is recommended to run a bottle of injector cleaner every 15k miles.
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I have a 2000 Accent GL with the 1.3
I was driving home with a known overheating problem, when the temp gauge pegged and a heard a distinct rattling. I knew right away what happened. as I pulled over the engine stopped turning. I opened up the hood, and my suspicions were confirmed. I blew a headgasket. I went back into the car to call AAA, and I heard a loud POP!! the radiator blew from the heat and pressure.
after it got home and cooled down I tried cranking it over and it has NO comression. it just spins.
should I take the time and money to replace the headgasket, or should I just get a junkyard motor?
I know I need a new MAF. I had a "multiplicative fuel system running lean" code for a LONG time. I regrettably assume this is what caused the failure in the first place.
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Filled up with gas recently and afterward I have a distinct gas smell in the cabin and trunk. I see the 2011 Sonata has an issue with this. Apparently a pcv valve hose problem. The car is a GL. I did not overfill the tank and the cap is on tight. Has the pcv hose issue been fixed with the 2012 model? Are there other possible issues that could cause this? Plan to call the dealer tomorrow.
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Is it normal to experience a distinct clunking noise when downshifting into first gear? My dealer indicates this is normal but I don't want to risk damage to the tranny if it is not normal.
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I have a distinct coolant smell inside my Jeep (2009, 60k miles). I popped the hood and couldn't spot any leaks nor was there any fluid underneath the vehicle. I took it into a mechanic and they smelled the same thing and put the coolant system under pressure (as well as doing a visual inspection), and could not find any leaks nor was there any evidence of fluid by the vents. They also noted that my coolant levels were still full and I had not added anything to the car. The current theory is a pinhole leak in the heater core (the smell is definitely worse after the car has been driven a bit).
I have had one suggestion to add Bar's Stop Leak to the radiator, but the mechanic said this was a Bad Idea (his argument being that since there was no visible leak in the system it would likely just gum things up). Since the vehicle seems to be otherwise operating fine, I'm hesitant to replace the heater core, but there's a good chance it's still under warranty, so I could go that route.
So, could it be something other than the heater core? Should I have that replaced or would the Stop Leak be a good idea?
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I have a 2003 Nissan xterra se with 93,0000 mi. When i reach speeds greater than 60 mph it makes this rapid somewhat clicking noise. the dealer suggest to replace the belts. Of course that did not resolved the issue. then they claimed it was coming from the exhaust so they tinkered with it. it was gone for awhile but now it has return.
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