Infiniti - I30 :: 1999 Won't Start / Grinding Noise When Turn The Key
Nov 22, 2012
It was having trouble turning over for a few weeks, getting progressively worse, but we just didn't have time to look it over. Well, it finally died--now if I turn the key a couple times we got a grinding noise but mostly just nothing at all. The lights, radio, etc all turn on though so we were sure it wasn't the battery. Thinking it was the starter, we pulled that out and took it down to Advanced Auto Parts, but they ran a test on it and said it was still good. So we put that back in the car and brought them the battery instead--they tested it and said it was charging and holding voltage but not amperage, and that, that would mean the lights and things could come on but it wouldn't have enough kick to actually start the car.
So, we bought a new battery, went home, and popped it in. Still, nothing. My friend says it's not the alternator because with a fully charged battery the car would start even if the alternator wasn't right (and would just die in a couple days, at which point you'd know you needed to replace the alternator) and my car's still not starting. The last thing we tried before we gave up for the moment last night was checking fuses in the driver's side of the car and also under the hood, the handful we thought could be related to the starter, alternator, and/or battery, but they all looked good.
The only other thing I read about online with Infinitis was that if the security system was activated it wouldn't start, however, while I noticed the light for it is flashing which I'm not sure if that was normal before or not, I THINK if it is activated it would be solid red, and at any rate, I tried what I read online to unlock it (put key forward for 5 seconds, then off, repeat 2 more times, then try to start) and that didn't do anything either.
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I have am 1999 Infiniti i30t. My car will not crank/start up. When I turn the key there is only a clicking sound. But the car lights & hazard lights do work. What I think I'm hearing is the alternator when I try to start it. We have tried to jump start it, no success. Jump starting the battery got it going but it would only last about 5 minutes before it was dead again. When I turn the key there is just a clicking sound.
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I drive an Infiniti i30. When I bought it, the guy who sold it to me told me that the car runs great but that I would have to turn the key kind of hard to get the car started. Over time, this problem has progressively gotten worse. There have been times where I'd be stuck in a parking lot for over an hour trying to get the car to start. When I turn the key, I can hear the starter clicking, and all of the dash lots and radio will come on but the car doesn't sound like its cranking or even trying to start. The weirdest thing is that the first time I drive my car in the morning it starts up just fine. It's once I turn the car off after driving somewhere and try to start it again that I have problems. I'll have to turn the key 100 times or more sometimes to get it to start if its not the first time of the day. What this could be?
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I have am 1999 Infiniti i30t. My car will not crank/start up. What I think I'm hearing is the alternator buzzing when I try to start it. We have tried to jump start it, no success. jump starting the battery got it going but it would only last about 5 minutes before it was dead again.
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I have a 99 Toyota Tacoma 4 cylinder. Just reached 200,000 miles this past Sunday. I did a cold start this morning and there was a grinding, metallic noise from under the hood. I turned the key bafk because it didn't sound good. Turned the key again and it started like normal and ran fine. I had a new starter installed last Thursday and now I'm wondering where this noise is coming from. Before I changed my starter, I had the bad starter symptoms in the last two weeks, slow to crank over, the whining airplane noise (happened 3 times in the last 3 weeks). But now, this new grinding noise has me even more worried. Does my engine have to get used to the new starter and what other issues could this be? The battery passed the battery test at Autozone, and my alternator is fine as i unplugged the positive and negative wires from the battery while was truck was running. I really really like my truck and am trying everything in my power to keep it running as smoothly as possible.
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Have an f350 4x4 diesel that when I drive slow and especially turn to the right it makes a grinding noise. It seems to either go away or just gets muffled by road noise when cruising. The ball joints were bad so I replaced them and I figured with this especially when I turn right it had to be a wheel bearing so I replaced both of them and still same thing. Don't want to throw money at it hoping to fix the issue. Also front duff is full of oil.
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I have an Infiniti i35 with about 150,000 miles that has a grinding sound that the car makes when the car is in motion. If I come to a stop, it goes away. When I start to move, the sound comes back very slowly and increases with speed. The noise doesn't go up but the grinding just goes faster. On the interstate, the steering wheel shakes a little and I can feel the gas pedal shaking too. What could this be?
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have a 2003 infiniti m45...was showing the battery light; co-worker tested with a ohm meter and the reading was 12.5(before stalling); suggested the alternator was bad. Just replaced the alternator and now the ignition won't even turn over(dead as a door knob)...before the change, removed the battery(which is dead by now), followed the steps and now I'm dumbfolded...what could be wrong?
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Recently my Infiniti G20's turn signals and hazard lights stopped working. I replaced the flasher relay and turn signal switch but it did not solve the problem. Here is the kicker or clue. The lights flash when locking or unlocking the car with the remote FOB.
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I am replacing the rear passenger hub assembly and as soon as i put a significant amount of torque to the axle nut...i get a crazy grinding noise and the hub becomes very difficult to turn. When I disassembled the old assembly it took very little effort to push the axle freely in the splines of the hub after i took the 32mm nut off. Now when i start to get the grinding, i remove the axle nut and it take some serious whacks with a larger hammer and brass drift to free the axle spline in the hub.
Ive dug around online and found someone that had to slip a couple pieces of wood in between the sheet metal dust shield and the end of the axle to fully seat it.
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I have 35k on my 2009 camry, (past warranty). All of a sudden in the last few days when I make a sharp left turn (like into a parking spot) I hear a grinding noise from my car. Not really a full on grinding, but like a quiet fart can muffler noise. No issues with alignment, driving straight, or sharp right turns.
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Coming to a left turn signal I was anticipating it turning red on me, and I drove into the turn lane briskly 30mph and then applied brakes as I made a u-turn. It sounded like a cross between dragging the front air dam and metal on metal brake grinding as I made the turn. Stopped immediately and did not scrap the air dam and all front end components checked out, okay. Car is driving just fine now, has only done this once.
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What might be causing this symptom?
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A sort of honking/grinding noise, like really loud squealing brakes - but a lower sound, when at low speed, with the wheel turned right for maximum turning. Generally located in the front end.
It occurs consistently when I am returning home, slowing to a stop to pull around a curve in the road, right before I back into my driveway. It occurs with the clutch in or out, and with the brakes on or not. I tried doing slow sharp turns in a parking lot and I can't replicate it there.
It's happened for almost as long as I've had the car, and there's only about 1300km on it now. I've just been trying to track it down to replicate for the dealer. Taking it to the dealer is obviously my next step. I think I'm going to have to take a tech for a ride to my house to replicate it!
Car is completely stock so far.
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The other day I hit a good size bump at speed, slightly bent a wheel which I didn't even notice at first. The car drove straight and had no other symptoms, thought everything was okay. A couple days later I heard a weird grinding noise while making a left hand turn, it was so faint I honestly thought it was the fender liner. After the noises continued and further examination I noticed that the carrier is rubbing the rotor on the lower drivers side corner.
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Lately my 2007 Camry (2.4 L, Auto) has developed a bit strange problem. When I'm driving on highway, even slight left turn results in a grinding noise and sort of resistant steering wheel. It happens only when I turn left. As soon as steering wheel gets back to straight, the noise and steering wheel resistance/hardness goes away. I don't really feel much when I'm driving slow on the city streets. Although some time when I am little bit fast, I feel slight grinding noise and steering hardness. No problem in turning right at all.
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I'm having 4WD problems with my Yukon, but the dealer keeps telling me there's nothing wrong with it (this has been going on for 2 winters now), which is either code for, "let's wait until it's extended warranty expires, so we don't have to pay for it," or "the computer says nothing is wrong, so that's all we're going to look at." When it's in 4WD, anytime I make a sharp turn or even turn a corner there's a grinding noise in the front, if I try to back up, it will only go as far as one revolution of the tires then stop (I have to take it out of 4WD to backup), eventually the "Service 4WD" light comes on, but apparently nothing gets recorded on the computer. It has 32,000 miles on it.
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My new 2013 Ford Explorer Limited (5000 miles) recently started making a grinding/rubbing noise with a slight to significant braking action in the middle of turns (typically left turns, at moderate to slow speed, e.g., at stoplights) when my foot is on the accelerator, not the brake. Lasts about 1 second, happens once a day or so, typically when the car is cold. The dealer was flummoxed, tried replacing the steering gear, but the same thing happened as soon as I drove out of the lot. Apparently no codes showing on brakes or ABS.
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I've just started noticing a "clicking/ grinding/ creaking" when I turn my wheel. It makes the noise if I'm parked, or driving slowly. I can feel it in the steering wheel, and hear it in the cabin, but can't hear anything when I'm under the car.
It sounds like 'two pieces of rubber binding on each other', is the best I can describe it. I THINK its coming from the driver's side. I've considered: strut mounts shifting, CV joints, something in the steering column, Tie rods, power steering pump...
Everything is tight on the wheel when I try to move it by hand (on jacks), and no rips/ tears in any boots.
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I recently acquired a B4000(for a steal!), had it almost a month now and im starting to notice a few problems, all driveline related (I think).
1. Have a "grinding/rubbing" noise in a LEFT turn only. It is a 4x4 and I haven't turned a bolt on it yet, save for very minor stuff. Since this particular model has some costly parts, I'm trying to prevent buying unnecessary parts! I have a set of 31 x 10.50 on it, and even though there is some minor tire rub, im 90% certain this is not the case.
2. Has a somewhat "hard" shift when going into O/D(I think), doesn't do this all the time, I wonder if problem #2 and #3 are related.
3. Appears to be about 1in slack in the rear driveline, wondering if it is the rearend, and specifically the spider gears or pinion?
4. Also seems to be just a LITTLE slack in the front left CV axel, is this something I should be worried about? the front right is good and tight, Tcase shifts like its suppose to.
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3 weeks ago my father (who died 2 weeks ago) gave me his 1991 Infiniti G20 which he has kept in great condition over the years with the last few being the exception. He's the original owner and I have paperwork from every repair and service it's had. Unfortunately the issue it has now started happening after he passed so I'm not going to get info about how it's been running the last couple years. Now to the good stuff.
When I got the car it was outside under a carport like always (lives near Seattle). I drove the car about 200 miles and then a couple days later I noticed the turn signal stopped working, but not only that there were several things not working. The turn signals (yet hazard lights work), the seat belt motor will not let it roll back across my chest, the blower won't work but the AC and heat still works, the rear defogger stopped, the ABS stopped, and the warning lights and sounds for doors open and seat belts were undone don't work.
Then while driving everything just "clicked" back on for about 5 minutes, then "clicked back off the rest of the drive. The next day I started the car, everything was fine but after waiting a couple minutes for the windows to get defogged everything shut off again. Driving around with foggy windows, no turn signals, and no seat belt across my chest is starting to scare me. Oh, and the problem can turn on and off without the engine on. If I just put the key into the "on" position it will sometime switch between working and not working.
I have unplugged and replugged the fuses and relays on the left side under the steering wheel, I've checked the voltage of the battery (2 years old with 7 year warranty and alternator was replaced 18 months ago) and it was about 12.4. I've tried reading the wiring diagram in the service manual without any luck figuring it out. When I took it to the Nissan dealership they did their scans and couldn't recreate the issue and charged me $100 just for doing the electrical tests.
I want this car to keep going since it has 174,000 miles and runs great (manual trans) so need to figure out whats going on. It doesn't seem like it's a loose wire because the car doesn't have to move for it to go back and forth between working and failing. It sometimes works more often if the car is kept in a garage but even then I'm not sure. At one point in the last year a couple mice got into the trunk but they have since left and I don't see anything in the manual that says they could have effected anything all the way back there.
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