Infiniti - G35 :: Maintenance Intervals For Ultra Low Mileage
Feb 20, 2012
It's been 6 months since we've bought our Nissan Leaf, and we've concluded that we'll likely be driving our gas burner (2008 Infiniti G35x, 30K miles) only about 1,000 miles per year, about half of which highway and half on once-a-month trips around town to keep the battery charged, tires round, etc. The owner's manual indicates oil changes every 3 or 6 months (3750 or 7500 miles), depending on whether one follows schedule 1 or 2 (the former for short trips, freezing weather). This is presumably based on the synthetic blend the dealers use; we use full synthetic. If I follow the former, then that will mean changing full synthetic oil every 250 miles, about every three times the car is driven; that seems clearly crazy. Even every 6 months seems very frequent. The car is garage kept, so it's not clear to me how having the oil sitting in the crankcase is terribly different than it sitting in the bottles it's shipped in. Note that I'm not really trying to save money here, but rather the time and trouble to do this.
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I'll be running my 2013 f-350 diesel with a 6,500 lb load on it at interstate speeds, steep, western mountain back roads, lots of dirt roads and some tortuous 4x4 in low range 1st gear. Been doing the same thing with a 1988 f-250 for the past 25 years and it was also pulling a four horse trailer. No horses any more but Ford owners manual seems to indicate I should think in terms of 5,000 mi maintainance intervals and use 5w-40 oil. I bought a 7,500 mi maintenance plan. Always did my own before. I'm thinking about upgrading to a 5,000 mi plan and 100% synthetic 5w-40.
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I have a Prius 2007 , my maintenance light turn on , and I changed my oil . After that I reset my mileage as it is written on the manual but still the light is on . Can it cause the dangerous problem to my engine.
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I have 2600 miles on my 2012 mdl II. A month old. I have been averaging 47.5mpg since day one based on miles driven and gas put back in tank at each fill up. I have used only Mobil bottom 87 oct gas.Last fill up got me 48.2, very nice, then I filled up with mid grade 89 oct as it was all I could get then. The next day I was in the dealer for my 1000 mile checkup. when I got out my battery was down to 25%, okay no biggie. Then from there on out I notice my mpg changed alot. The comps used to read 49.1-50.1. Now it reads 42.2-44.1. I drive the same way and my 85 mile round trip to work hasn't changed. My first fill up since the dealer, got me 45.0 mpg. wow a big drop off.
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My 2004 Phaeton has 167,000 KMs on it right now, but the maintenance schedule on the user manual ends at 166,000 KMs, I have checked with the VW dealer, they said once the car goes pass that mileage, you just start over again, treat it like a new car, i wonder if this is true?
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How to drop the roof panel on a 2007 ultra - luxury....have an annoying "cracking soon" at the top front area of the sunroof. It does not appear to be the sunroof as I still get the sound when the roof is open and I'm going over an uneven area...say driveway onto the road. I would like to have a look but don't want to damage the air curtain bags.
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My 07 FSI v8 w/16k miles; has a developed a ultra low speed, random brake squeak/squeal -- I notice it at when rolling up to the bank teller or Starbuck's, etc. Recently, my 07 v10 w/6.8k miles just started doing it.
I purchase a can of this this to try tonight : [URL] .....
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I got the UR rear sway bar for my 2010 camry LE today, but it only has the bushing but doesn't include the bracket that secures the bushing? Is that OK can I reuse the OEM bracket? or did they not send me everything?
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I drive a 1996 Buick Park Avenue Ultra and my front dash blowers do not blow air (hot or cold). The defroster and the floor vents work fine, but not the front vents. I have heard this means something is wrong which has put my HVAC system in "default mode." Could this be a disconnected vaccum line somewhere and if so, where do I look for it? How do I troubleshoot this? I should also add that the electronic controls and display all seem fine. ParkAveUltra
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Eventually, I'd like to replace the steel wheels on my Corolla LE (P195 65 R15) with ultra light wheels and low rolling resistance tires.
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I've had my XB 5-speed for nearly a year and 10000 miles. It as been dead on reliable and fun to drive. My gas mileage has varied from 26 to 31 in mixed driving and from 32 to 35 on the highway. I use premium fuel only because I can get it without ethanol. My fuel mileage also increased a couple of mpg due to getting the power robbing ethanol out. True it is probably not enough to offset the extra expense but I like not having the stuff in my car. My only dissatisfactions has been with the transmission gear ratios. They are way to low. This torquy engine could easily do with a ratio that would drop about 500 rpm for more relaxed highway cruising.
As it is, though, my XB will go up any hill or long grade without breathing hard! Another is the instrumentation. I don't mind the center mounted set-up but speedometer and trip meter for mpg ratings are both inaccurate. My speedo reads about 2.5 mph high and the fuel mileage read out has about the same error, also on the high side. I have the stock 16" tires. The clutch has a narrow engagement band and can be difficult to be smooth on. The car is fairly quiet, is comfortable and this years hot, humid summer has shown it has one of the best air conditioners I have ever experienced in a car. I thought it might be an electric unit rather than a belt driven compressor because there is absolutely no perceived drag when the compressor kicks on.
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My daughter has a 89 740GL that has an issue where after about 10 minutes or so of running it just quits. Shes a new driver so it really scares her when it happens. I read that it could be the FI relay; nope I replaced that and it does run better, but after awhile with me driving it to make sure shes good, it died!
Started right back up, but died nonetheless.
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My mother-in-law just bought a 2009 Tiguan, and she's just over 5k miles. I looked in the owner's manual, and in booklet 1.1, page 37, it looks like service is every 5k miles, just like on my A4 and my wife's Passat. However, the dealer is telling me that VW recommends 10k service on the Tiguan. What am I missing? Is the dealer wrong? Am I misunderstanding the Owner's Manual?
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Alright so, the oil pan in my 1999 Passat V6 cracked in about March, and then it cracked again today. I am wondering, is there suppose to be some sort of protective sheet that goes over the oil pan so that it's not just hanging out there to get mauled by any bumps in the road that come it's way.
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I have a 2013 Corolla with full synthetic (0W-20). The dealer states this type of oil is only changed every 10k miles. I'm used to changing my oil every 3500-5000 mi. I'm not too keen on their recommendations but $70 for an oil change outside of the Toyota Care package is a little steep.
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Today while driving my 03 marquis the check engine light started blinking, after a few blinks I noticed it stopped . But a few moments later it started blinking again then stopped, so on an so on. I also noticed that the car had a immediate loss of power and it seemed like my car was missing, and while trying to give it gas it would shutter. It never killed on me but I can tell it ain't running right. A friend of mine told me to push the brake down while car was running an in drive, an give it gas like you was going to,"power brake it". I did, and instead of it power braking it just shook forward as if it only had 4cyl instead of 8cyl. then my buddy said its a bad "coil", no how he knows that idk. But is that true or what it might be???
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ok I have a 07 civic which I bought used, It of course has the indicator which says when service etc is due, my main concern is the oil life indicator, I have had the car 8 months changed the oil when it was due, I put 6100 miles on it, is this ok? I had an 02 civic which i bought new and change the oil every 3 to 4 k, I know the experts say you can go longer now, I do mixed driving city.
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When using the AC on my 2004 Prius, in any mode, any temperature, on fresh or recirculate, the cooling starts and stops every 5-10 mins. When the cooling is on, it is nice an cold, but then no matter how hot outside, the cooling stops and I am just getting vent air. After a while, the temp in the car gets way above the set point, and it kicks back on and cools again. This occurs over and over again.
Being as the cooling works well some of the time, I was wondering if it is a controller, not the cooling system itself.
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If you drive less than 6000 or maybe even less than 3000 miles a year, how often should one change the oil on the car? Or don't bother with time interval but mileage as recommended for the make and model? I'm not sure there's a recommendation for time on the make & model, I'll check sometime.
Car in question is a Hyundai Accent 2009
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So I just bought this 03 Santa FE a week or so ago and the Speedo like to drop at random intervals. I'll be cruising along at 60 down the highway and then BAM! nothing happens to the car as long as I don't have the cruise control on...if I do then it sputters and I just take over. Is this more than just a Speed sensor issue?
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Bought a Passat 2.0 Komfort and we're on its' first road trip. Between 65 - 80 mph a chime goes off three times at seemingly random intervals whether I'm accelerating or decelerating in that zone. The speed warning is turned off and the winter tire function is off. There are no warning lights or messages. It's got my salesperson and a VW service dept baffled.
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