I have 234,000 miles on the car, it runs well. starting to have idling problems, if I don't let the car warm up for ten or more minutes it cuts off. The power steering belt is making noise, the dash board is cracked from the sun other then these two issues it runs great. Should I repair these things or should I start looking for a new car?
View 2 RepliesRecently noticed a hissing noise coming from the passenger front-side of the engine compartment (alternator area). The noise only appears when the car is warmed up and revved to over 2k rpm. At that point the hissing starts and does not stop even when idling. As soon as the engine is turned off (even when warm) and re-started the noise is gone (until 2k rpms).
View 2 RepliesI have a 1995 Buick Century with 149,000 miles that will occasional and randomly idle rough when started warm. Also, on several occasions it will idle so rough it kills the engine and I'm unable to start the engine until the thermostat reads completely cold. I've taken it to 2 separate mechanics who both are unable to pull any error codes (even after the engine has died) and are unable to duplicate the problem. When it does idle rough most of the time I can rev the engine, put it in gear and drive it for a few minutes and the problem disappears. Other times I try to put it into gear and it kills, I put it into park and try to restart the engine and the engine will start for a brief second and then die and will die faster each time I restart until the engine doesn't turn over at all. Then once the thermostat reaches 'C' it starts up like there was no problem at all.
Here is a list of recent pertinent repairs:
- Replaced Battery 12/2/11
- Replaced plugs and wires 4/11/12
- Throttle Body Gasket and Fuel Filter Replaced 3/18/13
- PCV Hose replaced 2/19/14 (last mechanic's guess on the problem)
I don't notice any signs of a rich fuel mixture or abnormal exhaust (there was a discussion with a Buick with no start that had this).
I drive an Infiniti i30. When I bought it, the guy who sold it to me told me that the car runs great but that I would have to turn the key kind of hard to get the car started. Over time, this problem has progressively gotten worse. There have been times where I'd be stuck in a parking lot for over an hour trying to get the car to start. When I turn the key, I can hear the starter clicking, and all of the dash lots and radio will come on but the car doesn't sound like its cranking or even trying to start. The weirdest thing is that the first time I drive my car in the morning it starts up just fine. It's once I turn the car off after driving somewhere and try to start it again that I have problems. I'll have to turn the key 100 times or more sometimes to get it to start if its not the first time of the day. What this could be?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 F-150 crewcab, 4.6L with 118,000. I don't drive the truck often but for the past few months its stalls and cuts off, and idles poorly in reverse. Truck cutting off at low RPM's, low speeds, and after going over some bumps. At one point the engine light came on but now it is off and I am still having the issues. . . . not sure what code it would display. I have been reading articles and blogs and most say the TPS, MAF, or IAC is the problem.
View 2 RepliesI just swapped the 1.8 7a-fe for a fresher 1.8 7a-fe. Everything is properly assembled, but when I start it up it idles low and doesn't run smoothly. As if it weren't timed correctly... My buddy claims it is though, and he ran it with a timing light.
Another issue is black exhaust, I'm not sure if they bare any relation but I know black exhaust cannot be good..
I have a 93 Jeep Cherokee, I just replaced the thermostat and the radiator cap, it's not overheating, however the radiator cap isn't even warming up and the thermostat housing heats up quite a bit.
The hose from the radiator to the thermostat gets very hot, but I don't feel anything being pumped. The coolant is also being drained from the reservoir, but I see little to none leaking underneath the vehicle. I pop off the radiator cap while it's in idle and see no movement and the coolant stays cool.
Bought a 2003 golf gti 1.8t as kind of a project. Car had no interior no exhaust and some shifting issues. To fix the shifting issues rather than replacing solenoids I just got a rebuilt valve body. After installation the car still doesn't shift from 1st to second properly and now I don't have reverse. (It's an 09a transmission)
View 1 RepliesI don't expect many people to still be running OEM radios, but having issues with the stock radio? My girlfriend left town yesterday, and on the 3 hour drive, she said her radio just shuts off. Sometimes, when its on, the volume controls wont work, etc. W the model number for the stock 2010 Toyota Corolla S touch screen OEM stereo?
View 7 Replies2002 Infinity QX4: Why the Service Engine Light appeared 2 days after 3 emission sensors were replaced?
View 6 RepliesI have a S10, 2000, 2.2 liter with 4L60E automatic transmission. The trans was rebuilt just before I got the truck and I verified this at the shop that did it. It's got about 45k on the trans since this rebuild. It started jumping in and out of TC lockup intermittently not long after I started driving it. No codes set and no light at all. I took it to the same trans shop that did the rebuild and drove it with a scanner and it wouldn't malfunction for them and they saw no stored codes. Then it went for several months and only slipped in and out once in a while so I lived with it. It started getting bad again so I took it back in and it acted normal again for them. I said if I drive it to work and it does it on the way I'll come by so they agreed. The next day it started going in and out after about ten minutes down the road so I went straight to the shop.
By the time I got there it wouldn't go to lock up at all. He drove it with me and the scanner showed the TC was not being told to go to lock up. He said the trans wasn't at fault. He could see the temp was steady and OK, the TPS (throttle position sensor) was a little low but steady and not the probable cause and VSS (speed sensor) was steady and looked good. He said he could only guess the computer was bad. I've since replaced the computer, TPS, and the VSS with no luck. I've ohmed out the wires and connectors from sensor to PCM connector as far as I can reach for each of these parts and find no broken or shorted wires. It seems to get worse when it warms up to the point it won't lock up at all now. The temp gauge is rock steady so I don't think it's bad or the wires. If I drop it down to 3 it seems to work fine up to what seems like 4th gear. I've tapped the brake pedal and pulled up on it with no change.
My Acura MDX has 118,000 miles on it. When I start it in the morning, it stalls as I shift it into gear unless I let it warm up for about 5 minutes. It is a 2002.
View 1 RepliesMy 02 BMW 525i engine starts to stop running when the gas pedal is pressed. The engine starts and drives fine when the engine is cold. However, after driving for a while like more than 20 miles, I mean when the engine warms up already, the engine suddenly stops when the gas pedal is pressed, like stopping in the traffic light or STOP sign and starts to drive. I replaced the idle air control valve, but it does not work. What should I check next?
View 7 Replies2002 GTi 337 not shifting out of 1st until is warmed up for 20 min. Then shifts fine. I've already attempted to add the "liquid gold" G-052-990-A2 ATF fluid from VW at $35qt. I put in about 200ML to no change, then another 200ML to no change. So from reading other posts in VWvortex I've seen many folks with the Jetta have had very similar symptoms. They are installing a new (Solenoid valve N92 (green) to fix this issue. Many of them are even using over the counter synthetic ATF. Before I dig in, just wanted to know what folks with the GTi 337 think about this? Am I dealing with basically the same transmission?
View 2 RepliesI have a am fm cd and tape player. the radio cuts in and out and goes through station frenzies only have problems with the radio.
View 6 RepliesThree days ago, my 2002 Taurus ses, 144k, auto, 3.0 v6 motor, started "ticking" after I drove it to the local grocery. It is coming from the top of the motor, but does not make noise when it is first started, cold, only after it is warmed up. Oil & filter has 2500 miles on them, all other fluids are good.
View 1 RepliesI own a automatic 2002 Mazda Protege with about 167,000 miles on it. The other day I was at a stop light and when I accelerated it felt like the car was taking longer than normal to get into gear. I am scared that it may be a transmission problem.
View 2 RepliesI am new here just bought a santa fe 2002 2.4 model and its playing up it will start run for a few mins then die and wont start again for a while. the crank sensor has been renewed as has the cam position sensor the fuel pump makes the normal noise so fuel is getting threw the only other symptom is when it cuts out and wont start i check both ignition coils and neither are sparking yet there is power to both, all fuses are fine .
View 21 Replies2002 Honda Accord V6 230,000+ miles----The engine is good (well good for having been driven over 230,00miles) a/c is cold, interior is good, exterior is good. Transmission, not so good. Big question is do I (well, not me personally)put in a re-built trans. and keep driving or buy a newer car. This is one of three cars I own, but it gets driven a lot
View 9 RepliesSo for about two months now, every time I get gas, the pump cuts off almost immediately after i start pumping. After that, I am able to pump about a second or two before the pump shuts off. It recently has started spitting gas back out of the tank (I'm assuming it's the gas I just pumped into it being spit out). I'm not sure what is wrong. I have not gotten into an accident, there is no smell of gas in the car, the gauge still works fine, and no check engine light on.
View 3 RepliesIts a 2002 Santa Fe 2.0 turbo diesel. When driving the engine will suddenly cut out. Its as though the ignition has been turned off, there is no hesitation or warning, it just shuts down.
This is what has been done so far: New high pressure fuel pump fitted by main dealer in June. My mechanic has fitted a new high pressure fuel sensor, new low pressure fuel pump (at rear by fuel tank), changed relays around, checked all fuel injectors (found in good condition) and checked various connection plugs and wiring. At motorway speeds the engine will not cut, its only at lower speeds. When it cuts the EML comes on with a 'Fuel Pressure Fault' code. Sometimes the light doesn't come on. Sometimes the light comes on but will go out the next day. When the engine cuts out you have to wait 20 seconds before it will re-start. If you try to start before this the engine will only turn over without firing. The car has only done 79000 miles. The main dealer gave up and said they don't know where the fault is because the code is not specific enough.