Infiniti :: Won't Start Sometimes - Radio Will Die And Engine Keep Going
Aug 13, 2012
I have a 2003 Infiniti g35 with about 140,000 miles on it. Its been having a strange problem recently and intermittently. Sometimes when I first get in the car and I put the key in and try to start it NOTHING happens. I mean nothing. Not sound, no lights anything. If I slam the door and try the key again the dash lights may flick on for a second but then nothing. I'll open the hood for a bit and slam it and try starting it again and it will usually start again fine. It also seems to happen more when its hot outside or the car has been sitting in the sun. Other things notable about this problem is that MOST of the time, things like the radio presets are unaffected. That is, when the car does start it's not like it was a cable from the battery or anything since the radio was still getting power.
Another, possibly related problem, is if the car is running and I park, but have not turned the ignition off yet because I'm listening to the radio (those driveway moments) and reach up like I'm ready to turn the car off and just ever so slightly grip the key, the radio will die and the engine will keep going. These things lead me to believe that it all has something to do with the actual ignition switch where the key goes in. Of course when I drop it off at the mechanic it does not get reproduced and he thought it was the starter until I reiterated the fact that NOTHING happens when the key turns. It can't be the starter since when you turn the key there is no power to anything. This has been going on for over a month but I finally got fed up when I couldn't get it started after stopping at the 7-11 on the way to work. I took it right into the shop but the mechanics opinion is "if I can't get it to act up, I can't diagnose the problem" which seems kinda lame to me, but what can I do.
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Put in two starters in two years. This winter started having trouble when driving car - occasionally when I hit a bump in the road the radio and wipers cut off and if I pull over and restart the car they will come back on. My mechanic thought it was due to a loose battery cable and he tightened it up but, it is still happening. Also noted - when starting occasionally I hear a e-e-e-rk sound (I think the ignition) and if I turn key to off and try again it usually starts - sometimes it takes 2-3 tries. Infinity 1998 I30 Touring...
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I have am 1999 Infiniti i30t. My car will not crank/start up. What I think I'm hearing is the alternator buzzing when I try to start it. We have tried to jump start it, no success. jump starting the battery got it going but it would only last about 5 minutes before it was dead again.
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1995 G20 5.7L... This van runs great when first started and continues to run fine after it's warmed up and will do so until it’s turned off and restarted. When first started vacuum at idle is steady at 21” and 10” at 55mph cruising speed. I can continue driving for an hour or so and it will continue to run fine. It's only when I shut it down and restart after 20 minutes or so that I have a rough running condition. After parking for 10 to 20 minutes and restarting idle is still steady at 21” vacuum but the van hesitates on acceleration and runs rough at cruise with a 5” vacuum. If I continue to drive I get low vacuum trouble codes for the MAP and Oxygen sensors. I’ve replaced the oxygen sensor and performed a diagnostic on the MAP sensor which checks out ok. I’ve checked for vacuum leaks – none found. I've replaced the spark plugs, cap and rotor. What to look at next?
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It was having trouble turning over for a few weeks, getting progressively worse, but we just didn't have time to look it over. Well, it finally died--now if I turn the key a couple times we got a grinding noise but mostly just nothing at all. The lights, radio, etc all turn on though so we were sure it wasn't the battery. Thinking it was the starter, we pulled that out and took it down to Advanced Auto Parts, but they ran a test on it and said it was still good. So we put that back in the car and brought them the battery instead--they tested it and said it was charging and holding voltage but not amperage, and that, that would mean the lights and things could come on but it wouldn't have enough kick to actually start the car.
So, we bought a new battery, went home, and popped it in. Still, nothing. My friend says it's not the alternator because with a fully charged battery the car would start even if the alternator wasn't right (and would just die in a couple days, at which point you'd know you needed to replace the alternator) and my car's still not starting. The last thing we tried before we gave up for the moment last night was checking fuses in the driver's side of the car and also under the hood, the handful we thought could be related to the starter, alternator, and/or battery, but they all looked good.
The only other thing I read about online with Infinitis was that if the security system was activated it wouldn't start, however, while I noticed the light for it is flashing which I'm not sure if that was normal before or not, I THINK if it is activated it would be solid red, and at any rate, I tried what I read online to unlock it (put key forward for 5 seconds, then off, repeat 2 more times, then try to start) and that didn't do anything either.
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Just bought this car used. 180k miles. Absolutely love it......until it randomly died on me.
Here's the skinny. When I try to start the car, the first thing I hear is a very audible belt squeak, but it quickly goes away, and the engine starts to sputter and shake violently. The cylinders fire slower and slower, and If I step on the gas, the car just cuts off.
My first reaction was to guess the timing belt had frayed and was slipping...come to find out after about 5 minutes on google.com that the 2000 G20 uses a timing chain....
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I have am 1999 Infiniti i30t. My car will not crank/start up. When I turn the key there is only a clicking sound. But the car lights & hazard lights do work. What I think I'm hearing is the alternator when I try to start it. We have tried to jump start it, no success. Jump starting the battery got it going but it would only last about 5 minutes before it was dead again. When I turn the key there is just a clicking sound.
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I drive an Infiniti i30. When I bought it, the guy who sold it to me told me that the car runs great but that I would have to turn the key kind of hard to get the car started. Over time, this problem has progressively gotten worse. There have been times where I'd be stuck in a parking lot for over an hour trying to get the car to start. When I turn the key, I can hear the starter clicking, and all of the dash lots and radio will come on but the car doesn't sound like its cranking or even trying to start. The weirdest thing is that the first time I drive my car in the morning it starts up just fine. It's once I turn the car off after driving somewhere and try to start it again that I have problems. I'll have to turn the key 100 times or more sometimes to get it to start if its not the first time of the day. What this could be?
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My friend just bought (one week ago) a 1995 Infiniti G20T with 130,000 miles. The car is in great condition, except for the flecking/peeling gold paint (common problem with gold or silver paints?). When he bought it the car had a couple minor issues and had the "check engine" light on. After researching a bit, we figured that the possible issues causing the check engine light couldn't be too severe, given the car's asking price. So, he buys the car and I look up how to check the "check engine" light codes. I manage to get at the ECU and record (with the blinking red light) two codes: #34 and #105 - knock sensor and EGR + canister and control soleloid.
Good news, I told him. Both of those are relatively cheap to fix. So, I close up the ECU access and ask to borrow the car to run a couple errands. So, I go to one store, shop, get back in the car, make another stop at a store, get back in the car, make a third stop at a store and as I'm parking the car appears to start to loose power - engine seems about to stall and lights fade a bit. I rev the engine and it's fine. I (stupidly) go into the store and return to the car which now won't start. Turning the key to the crank position produces "click click click" and nothing else. Radio and lights work, but I turn off all these in case it's a low battery. Again - click click click.
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Radio panel is frozen after engine start. Radio, GPS, Internet etc...do not work. This problem was there since day 1 of the purchase. Toyota case manager will call and if they cannot fix that the I'll file a lemon law claim. Took it to two dealers and they said Toyota cannot send them the radio because they do not make them and there is no date. The second dealer said part will be in on June 5 and on June 5 they said part will be in on Aug 15. The service manager was kind of embarrassed when he told me that.
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I've got a 2000 Infiniti Qx4 that I can NOT get to pass inspection. I replaced the engine at 130,000 miles, and since then I've had nothing but problems. I live in TN and I've got to pass emissions testing. The car drives/runs great, no problems. I'm down to code P1105 or something, MAP/solenoid valve... Or maybe it was P10107 or something. Anyways it means the MAF sensor is malfunctioning or I've got bad hoses or electrical connections near the intake. So I replace the MAF. Nope, check engine light still on. I replace the clips on the hoses for the MAF. Nope, still on. I check all the wires n all the hoses. Nope, light still on. Now my mechanic is going on about I might have a bad computer or it might not have accepted the new engine as it was from a different year (still a 3.3L V6 standard of the prior to 2001 model)? My mechanic has been at it for over 2 weeks trying all kinds of stuff but to no avail.
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2002 Infinity QX4: Why the Service Engine Light appeared 2 days after 3 emission sensors were replaced?
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I have a 2004 G35 that has not given me many mechanical problems. However, before my last oil change, I noticed noise from my engine which I wasnt used to. After 2 days I checked the dipstick and there was almost no oil on it which greatly worried me. I put in two 10W30 bottles and got a normal oil change the next day. Its been a week now and I still hear this noise when I start my car and its idling (cant hear it while driving cuz of the normal engine/road noise). It almost sounds like a noise I would hear from my dad old 70s diesel benz's, just not as loud.
Its def mechanical but I can't figure out what it is or where exactly its coming from. Its been 10 days now since the noise first started and it doesn't seem to be going away. I just checked engine oil levels now and they are near max. When I open up the hood, I don't hear the noise ( over the normal engine/belt noise), but its very apparent once inside the car with the doors closed and windows up. I am worried my car might end up and die on me all of a sudden while on the freeway or if my transmission is going to go bad.
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Last year, I had the unfortunate experience of having to get my engine replaced on a 2003 Infiniti G35 (only 121k miles, I got it used in '06, long story, I assume previous owner didn't take very good care of it). I opted to have a local mechanic find a used engine instead of paying for a rebuilt one and he was able to find one that had ~60k miles on it so I went with it. Now it's 9 months later and I have started noticing a burning oil smell while sitting in the car at a stop. I took it into a shop (not the one that replaced the engine, different tire and lube shop) and they found that the rear main seal was leaking pretty badly and that's where the smell was coming from. They don't do that kind of work so I need to take it somewhere else to get any repair done.
I feel like, if a second diagnosis also says RMS is the problem, that the shop that put in the engine should have given me a new RMS when they put in the used engine. Is it not something that would be visible and thus easily replaced when installing the new engine? If they did in fact replace it, it wouldn't possibly have failed on its own after only 8 or 9k miles, would it? I don't normally hearing about RMS problems until cars are well over 100k miles.
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I was driving on the highway at about 80 mph when my car made a thunk noise and then the mph dropped to 40 mph. The car was hesitating but I continued to drive it to gas station. At this point steam was coming from passenger side engine front. The coolant was coming out now my car was overheating to the extreme. I drove it to shop. Next day he changed the thermostat and water pump. But he said it took him a while to get air out / bleeding it?! The day I drive off with my repaired car it still sounds loud eventually it sounds like a helicopter!!! Next day take it to Infiniti dealer they say I need a new engine. Internal engine failure! Could this have happened because the water pump wasn't replaced correctly? My car is a 2006 Infiniti G35x, 96k miles.
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I took my 1998 Infiniti I30 to my mechanic for routine maintenance, and I noticed the engine was working a tiny bit harder to startup and to accelerate on highway in the last 2 weeks. They discovered the air filter and housing were completely burnt out! We're scratching our heads. Internet search and check with other mechanics- no clues. It's been a dream for years with routine maintenance, has only 125k, last service May 2013 since I only drove it 5K since then. I'm the only driver and it sleeps in my garage (secure, no rodents). What the heck?
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my timing chain slipped and had to have engine repaired - then when I picked up my car the display for the radio/clock didn't work and neither did the buttons. The knobs worked (to turn radio on/off and tuning) - but of course since the display is blank can't see what radio station I'm on.It worked perfectly when I dropped it off, but when I picked it up, it was non-functional. Mechanic says they didn't do anything with the dash - but how else would this have happened? Is this not the fault of the mechanic?
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I have a 2008 Infiniti G35x with a push button start. The dealer recently replaced my key fob under warranty but now wants to charge me (about 1/2 hr labor) to reset the 2nd key fob, which I did not think to bring with me when the last service was performed, and which now does not work since the key fob was reprogrammed.
Can I fix this myself? Or is this something the dealer needs to do? I have seen many references to reprogramming Nissan key fobs but all start with "insert the key 7 times" and I don't have a key.
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car makes a noise like a jangling bracelet when I press accelerator. Doesn't make noise while idling.
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It has a new battery, a new alternator, gas, oil changed. The lights inside come on, the radio will not come on, when you try and start it, it will not turn over, it acts as if its dead....A mechanic told me it might have an electrical issue a couple of months ago because I had gotten a new battery then, and it drove for 3 weeks and died... I don't know what could it be..
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I have a 2003 infiniti g35. With about 93k. When I reach about 50mph I begin to hear an off balance hum. I believe it is coming from the front tires. If I speed up past 70 I cannot here it or its frequency increases to where it is not noticeable. I thought it was my tires but I recently replaced the two front tires but the humming still is present. I don't know if its the steering, wheels or the engine. A few months ago I ran over a curb (drivers side) and had the front bumper replaced due to damage. I'm almost positive that knocked something off alignment, but I took it back to the repair shop and they said they could not find anything.
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