Infiniti :: 2000 - Rhythmic Sound With Very Slow Speed Braking
Oct 2, 2013
2011 infiniti. new rear rotors/pads 6k miles ago. now there is a rhythmic sound with very slow speed braking. like a bad spot on 1 rotor. you hear a grind, stop, grind, stop. its not a constant grind sound. i looked at both rear rotors thru rim slots. rotors look perfect. very smooth. i have not pulled wheels to check. i am thinking rotors making sound vs pads making sound. but why would a rotor have an odd spot or rough patch? there is no ridge at all on rotors. cant see the pads rubbing on some rust ridge? there is none....
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Our 2005 Ford Taurus makes a rhythmic clunk from the rear when you slow down. The rhythm seems to slow as you brake. The noise isn't there when you are cruising or accelerating, only when you slow down. We recently drove 2000 miles with a small trailer attached. Could that have anything to do with it?
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I get a rhythmic thumping sound from my right front wheel when braking. The sound gets slower as the car slows, and when very slow sounds more like a grind than a thump. I can feel the vibration through the brake pedal. I've had this problem before, and had my wheel bearings replaced -- fixed the problem, but after about a year the sound came back. Just had the car inspected and brakes are in good shape (at least those parts checked out by the state inspection). Could it just be that I need to get the wheel assembly tightened up? (It's a '99 Honda Civic with about 145K on it, if that matters)....
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I'm hearing a disconcerting sound coming from my car as of late. It's a rattling sound, almost as if someone were shaking a can of spray paint at the same frequency as the engine. It doesn't strike me as being a heat shield, it's a heavier rattling, not really a buzz.
The sound usually occurs when I am above 2000 RPM, however, it does not match an RPM range or the car's speed—it seems more closely associated with the position of the gas pedal—about halfway to 3/4. It does not make the sound unless the car is in gear and moving.
On cold starts, the engine fires and runs, but then takes up to 30-40 seconds to really get going at a normal RPM. Efforts to coax it with the gas pedal are delayed by a second or two before they kick in...
The car is a 2001 model, and has 44,000 miles.
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Mk4 2005 TDI 190,00 KM
Background: Purchased this car couple months ago. Did a bunch of maintenance, including rear pads/rotors, fronts still good. Also decide to bleed the system while I had the car on jacks. Followed Bentley procedure as I have previously, using a pressure bleeder making sure to stay at 12 psi and kept the reservoir topped up at all times. First I did the clutch slave, brakes and last I did VAG com procedure to bleed the ABS unit. Upon completion pedal felt good and I took it for drive ..
Brakes worked fine under normal braking force but when the car was slowing down and coasting to a stop with my foot on the brake (light pressure) the ABS engaged briefly(speed around 10-15km /h) right before the car came to a stop. Assumed maybe air in the system so re-bleed the ABS pump again .. Nothing same ABS kicks in right before stopping .. Cleaned all speed sensors and rings .. Nothing, still happening.
Recap:
-ABS does not engage under regular braking force, brakes work fine.
-ABS engages under light braking pressure right before complete stop. (ie parking car or pulling into a drive way)
So my question is, is it possible an ABS sensor out of the 4 is causing this? How about the brake switch? I know that on older VWs used to be 2 pin but this one is 4. Is it possible there is ABS pump problem? Air still in the system? Master cylinder?
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For the past 4/5 weeks my truck vibrates when i brake at slow speed ex. Driving out of a parking spot, slightly braking no matter if i go forward, reverse, turn or go straight it'll vibrate, sometimes very lightly, but usually it's very noticeable, can be compared to the clutch pack issue with these trucks. I had the clutchpacks in the rear diff. replaced at 160k ,after that it drove very smooth but that only lasted 20/30k.
So when turning it'll vibrate at about 15/20 km/h, but that's because of them crappy clutch packs
truck:
2009 f150
xlt ext. cab
4x4
xtr package
6,5 ft box
5.4 L
212000 km
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On my 2006 Camry, my ABS comes on intermittently when braking (~5% of the time) and the speed is very slow (5 mph or less). Exact speed is hard to say. I think one of the ABS sensors is misreading. No ABS fault light on dash.I have an explanation of how to check the sensors for AC voltage when spinning the wheel using a DVM.
1. Without a lift can I check this under the hood instead of at the wheel? Possibly at the plug into the ABS module.
2. Someone else on another thread mentioned that their dealership hooked in a monitor and drove around.
When I asked my dealership how they would diagnose this, they said they would do the same check as I mentioned above (#1). This would be expensive and since it is intermittent, they might not see anything. Do this monitor exists and what it is called?
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I'm experiencing a weird problem with my Passat (2000 TDi 110), where the brake pedal is buzzing at my feet when braking from slow speeds. If I am doing around 5-10mph and lightly apply the brakes, it sometimes buzzes in the peddle and I can't apply full pressure (this can be tricky when behind another car!), but if I take my foot off the pedal or wait around 3 seconds, the buzz and pressure restriction goes and then I end up braking quite sharp as the pressure releases. The buzz is quite audiable and can be heard by others in the car and sounds quite electronic. Pads and Discs are fine, they will need replacing soon, but this issue has been going on for a while, so I don't think it's related to them.
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When I brake I get a rhythmic noise that starts like a quiet chirp and by the time I have completely put the brake pedal down it sounds like a loud grinding noise. It is a rhythmic pulsing noise, not continuous. I recently got new rear drum brakes, and 2 garages said my front brakes were fine. One guy said it could be the wheel bearing but I looked online and it says that happens when you accelerate, not when you brake. It only happens when I brake at relatively low speeds. In other words if I'm on the hiway and brake to slow down from 70 to 60 or 40 to 30, it won't happen. I also feel vibration in the brake pedal, but only when I have almost completely stopped.
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I have a 1996 infiniti we bought in 2006 has ran good until the last 2 years. when you slow down at a red light or stop sign it will die on you. We have had the fuel pump, Mass flow sensor,starter, spark plugs,rewire harness for MAF and I think not to long ago the alternator was replaced also. But when you are driving the radio will turn off then the car will die the air also stops working. It does this when the weather is getting hot only does not seem to do it in the winter maybe a few times but the summer it is almost every time you drive it.
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2005 hyundai accent, I've noticed something unusual with my trans, whenever I start driving at lower speeds ( which I do all the time to save gas) the transmission shifts into 2nd and 3rd just fine, but in 3rd gear ( at around 2.5 rpm ) the RPM gage goes down a little bit ( about 2.1 rmp), it almost feels like it went into 4th gear and it happens really smooth, it almost feels like its supposed to do that, the car later shifts into 4rd at around 3 rpm, there's no jerking, stalling or sounds at all, this does NOT happen when I take off at a higher speed and acceleration. This transmission has 55.000 miles on it and besides this it works perfectly fine.
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My Phaeton has recently developed a single clunking sound that occurs at low speed, either when braking, or when turning the steering wheel towards the right about 90. The clunk can be felt at the drivers footwell area too.
All four upper control arm bushings were replaced a few months ago and the antiroll bar links are pretty new too.
I have not identified exactly where the noise is coming from, but by placing my hand on all suspension components it seems that the clunk is most felt at the front left rear lower arm. Hence I am wondering if the bushing or the whole arm may need replacement.
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Getting a creak sounds like near struts at slow speeds and turning , it stopped when it got cold, but on the first warm day today its back . I did replace the struts, bearings and seats, but have to admit I used the cheapos . I just cant find where its creaking from...
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My 2000 Passport is really sluggish when taking off. It goes really slow and then eventually picks up speed. I was thinking it was the transmission but last week the car wouldn't start either. So we replaced the battery and then it started. Wondering if this is an electrical issue that is causing this and not the transmission.
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I recently (<90 days, < 3K miles) had inner & outer tie rods replaced on the right side; they were rusted from when I lived in PA and had some play in them. Now I'm hearing a funny sound at low speeds (like when parking) that's just like a stick getting caught in the wheel well ("thunk") that seems to be coming from the same spot, but I can't seem to replicate it let alone hear it at the shop. This is a 2001 Camry LE 2.2L I4 with 97K mostly highway miles and one winter on salt/snow.
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Mazda5; 2010; 105,000 miles.
Recently, our Mazda has started making a subdued grinding sound. It happens only when accelerating from idling to 10 miles per hour. It does not occur over 10 mph, in neutral, or park. It doesn't happen when starting the car or in reverse either. according to my wife, it does happens when turning right at slow speeds, but not left.
We have just driven it to our mechanic but it may take a couple days before they are able to look at it.
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I have determined that I most likely have a bad CV joint - a faint clicking sound while braking that varies with speed that happens with the car in drive, but not in neutral.
I've also found instructions here on how to remove/replace the axle, but I'm wondering if it can be done without separating the tie rod end and removing the ball joint. On other cars I've managed to do this by unbolting the strut, which allowed the hub assembly to flop out enough to be able to slide the axle out of it. Is this possible on the Prius? I have to replace my struts anyway so I was hoping to do it all at once and avoid dealing with potentially frozen suspension components.
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I purchased my .:R last summer with just over 100k miles on it. Two prior owners, car was fully stock and in great condition except for one thing:
Humming/vibration ("brrrrr" sound) coming from the back of the car when turning at a slow speed with the wheel fully cranked, e.g. moving out of a parking spot. It only occurs when moving, and with the wheel fully or almost fully turned in one direction.
The guy I purchased it from brought it to a local VW dealership when he noticed this and they (obviously) did not find anything wrong with the car, and blamed it on the tire wear.
So I changed all four tires. Still made the noise.
Haldex oil had been changed by the original owner but not by the second owner (who owned the car for two years prior to my purchase). So I had the Haldex oil changed and my mechanic said it was dirty AND at a low level, and might be the source of this problem. The noise did diminish for a bit, but it is still present.
So, I'm afraid my transmission or differential are fried from running on too little oil. It does not affect anything but it is definitely worrying me.
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2013 SF Limited AWD = long base, 41K miles
Slow speed sharp turns left and right taking off from a stop I hear a thumping/light popping in the driveline. Seems like it could be a differential issue?
I also hear an unusual noise while accelerating in a straight line.....under throttle from a stop, it sounds like a rapid chirp on and off, every other second. Almost like a valve tick. The noise is heard under acceleration in gear, not when cruising at light throttle. I put the transmission in neutral while rolling, revved up the engine and the noise is not heard. Only happens when in gear and accelerating.
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Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. It it the blower, the switch or the little box behind the blower? When it does work, it starts out slow and slowly gains speed.
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A couple of weeks ago I came home from work to find my front passenger side wheel completely deflated. I didn't think much of it at the time and thought someone must have let it down. However, ever since then I have had a very low pitched intermittent 'whomp' sound coming from it, when braking at a low speed. When the car comes to a stop, so does the noise.
I'm beginning to suspect that the tyre being deflated was due to it not being properly sealed to the wheel. I'd parked half on/half off the pavement outside my house with the passenger side on the road. I assumed the tyre deflated because it couldn't handle the weight of the car on the tyre. I've inspected the tyre and there are no obvious punctures and the wheel has remained inflated ever since and I've now agreed with my housemate that I can use the drive to park it on for the time being to stop it happening again.
However, before the deflation everything was fine with the car and there was definitely no 'whomp'. What it may be/ways to check what it is myself and/or potential costings of taking it to a mechanic?
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