Infiniti :: 2000 - Little Power When Press On Gas Going From A Stop Position
Nov 28, 2015
My 2000 Infiniti QX4 has 145,000 miles. It starts fine but when i press the gas when going from a stop position it has little power.There is an hesitation and then it moves very slowly even if the gas pedal is depress all the way. Once it gets to 20 or 30 miles it moves okay. The problem is only present when going from stop. Due to the lack of acceleration, I am reluctant to drive it on the highway because of the risk of a slow merger...
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I have a 2001 Ford Excursion Limited 7.3l with 199,980 miles on it.
It has a TS-6. My first problem is that when I come to a stop or slow down to a crawl then press the accelerator the engine stalls and dies. I have looked and looked at threads and can not find this example anywhere. There is no pressing the pedal and it remains at idle. It dies, shuts off, quiets. I have thought icp, tps, ivs
Second problem is that a/c is blowing hot. Other than being out of Freon, what could be other things to check. It does sometime go to default, but has done so in awhile. It does not blow cold in rear and hot in front. They both blow hot. I have replaced the pvh sensor.
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1998 Infiniti Q45 ... Car shakes at stop lights and tries to cut off, unless I put into neutral and keep my foot on gas peddle, What is causing this? Mechanic does not know what problem is.
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In May the driver's side window mechanism (motor + "window regulator" are the primary parts) self destructed on my 2002 Hyundai Accent and left the window stuck in the down position. Since the car only has 35,000 miles on it, and since I live in a cold climate and didn't lower the windows much, I concluded it was a manufacturing failure.
So rather than spend about $700 to have the mechanism redone, I elected for 1/10 as much money to have a body shop remove the mechanism and wedge up the window in the up position permanently with blocks and screws. Since I was told by a couple of mechanics that this type of failure occurs in other vehicles, I was still sticking by Hyundai and planning to buy another one 3-5 years from now.
But I have been forced to change my plans. Today (in September) the passenger side window mechanism self destructed and, once again, left the window stuck in the down position! Naturally, I am going to have the same solution applied to the passenger side window now. As a result of this (and an unbelievable brake problem that I don't have time to get into) I have been forced to change my mind and can no longer support Hyundai.
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I'm hearing a disconcerting sound coming from my car as of late. It's a rattling sound, almost as if someone were shaking a can of spray paint at the same frequency as the engine. It doesn't strike me as being a heat shield, it's a heavier rattling, not really a buzz.
The sound usually occurs when I am above 2000 RPM, however, it does not match an RPM range or the car's speed—it seems more closely associated with the position of the gas pedal—about halfway to 3/4. It does not make the sound unless the car is in gear and moving.
On cold starts, the engine fires and runs, but then takes up to 30-40 seconds to really get going at a normal RPM. Efforts to coax it with the gas pedal are delayed by a second or two before they kick in...
The car is a 2001 model, and has 44,000 miles.
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I've got a 2000 Infiniti Qx4 that I can NOT get to pass inspection. I replaced the engine at 130,000 miles, and since then I've had nothing but problems. I live in TN and I've got to pass emissions testing. The car drives/runs great, no problems. I'm down to code P1105 or something, MAP/solenoid valve... Or maybe it was P10107 or something. Anyways it means the MAF sensor is malfunctioning or I've got bad hoses or electrical connections near the intake. So I replace the MAF. Nope, check engine light still on. I replace the clips on the hoses for the MAF. Nope, still on. I check all the wires n all the hoses. Nope, light still on. Now my mechanic is going on about I might have a bad computer or it might not have accepted the new engine as it was from a different year (still a 3.3L V6 standard of the prior to 2001 model)? My mechanic has been at it for over 2 weeks trying all kinds of stuff but to no avail.
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Very strange problem for me especially since it's not my car, belongs to my sister. Only code that was set last month indicated the MAF so I cleaned it and the car ran fine. Started to hesitate up hills (steep uphill driveway) so I replaced the fuel filter yesterday and my sister said it drove just fine uphill. Now it stalls whenever put into drive, no codes set and none pending. It will idle in reverse but not in drive.
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2011 infiniti. new rear rotors/pads 6k miles ago. now there is a rhythmic sound with very slow speed braking. like a bad spot on 1 rotor. you hear a grind, stop, grind, stop. its not a constant grind sound. i looked at both rear rotors thru rim slots. rotors look perfect. very smooth. i have not pulled wheels to check. i am thinking rotors making sound vs pads making sound. but why would a rotor have an odd spot or rough patch? there is no ridge at all on rotors. cant see the pads rubbing on some rust ridge? there is none....
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2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.
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I noticed that the car take a very long time to come to a complete stop and I have to press the pedal hard to stop. The brakes have approximately 11,000 miles on them in city driving conditions. Also the slightest bit I relax my foot, the car begins to creek and move. I have to have a very firm foot on it so it won't move. Is it time for new brakes or should I first begin to look at other potential problems? Also I noticed the car pulls to right slightly could that be related?
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So I was driving my cousin's Passat 1.8t gls with tip the other weekend when we went to the cottage and I got a strange message in the dash that first said STOP in big letters then Oil Press Stop Engine then Service Manual. So I immediately stopped the car. Checked the oil, it was completely full, looked around didn't see any oil on the bay so I called my cousin and he said its been doing that for a while and sometimes it says Brake Failure and I could keep driving no problem. On the drive home (3 hours) this was happening nonstop.
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Long story..couple months ago while coming home my 08 Sonata 2.4L manual 84,000 miles...started making this grinding noise and would stop when I pressed the clutch in and then sounded like something was grinding near the passenger front wheel.. well I get it home and the next morning my husband and I ride up the road so he can hear it.. was going to take it to the shop but it stopped and ran just fine till the other day.. crank the car and its fine.. once it gets warmed up and a few miles down the road it makes a knocking noise...but only when I let off the gas or idling .. even pressing on the gas just a tiny bit made it stop (even tried in while parked in the driveway with the hood up to make sure the engine wasn't just drowning it out) well I took it to the local dealership today and they said it was the flywheel and that it and the clutch and bearing needed to be replaced..
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I have a 1995 Ford Taurus when I press on the brake to come to a complete stop the transmission slips from second gear to first gear. But when I press on the gas and go from 1st to 2nd gear its a hard shift but no slipping. I checked the transmission fluid it was low and dark so I replenished the fluid and put in this slip and seal stuff in the transmission. What else can I do and how long do you think I will be able to drive my car until it dies completely?
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Yesterday i removed my bumper and unhooked my battery and reinstalled it a few hours later. Now have a "Stop Engine Press Top" error on the screen and the oil light is flashing. I also noticed that the oil temp gauge is not moving.
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Now that Spring is approaching, I am focusing on maintenance for my 2008 Elantra GLS. I have a brake question. When I first bought the car, my brakes were very responsive needing only a lightly press them to stop. I might say they were overly sensitive to the touch. Anyway, I since replaced both the front and rear pads since then. I am about ready to change the fronts again. Now when I press the brake pedal, I need to apply much more pressure to stop. My question is how do I get them back to where they were when I bought the car....meaning light pressure to stop the car?
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This started out as an intermittent problem after I would run the a/c for a bit. Now it happens every time I get in the van regardless of if I turn on the a/c. The engine begins acting like I am pressing the gas pedal, but not flooring it. I have to press hard on the brake in order to get the vehicle to stop because it is trying to race ahead and I don't have to press the gas until around 45 mph. What in the world is going on with my van? If I throw it in neutral it just goes nuts. I have been pulling over, shutting off the van, waiting a few minutes, and then cranking up again. It could take a couple of minutes for it to start again or it will do it right away.
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I own a 2015 camry SE - 4k miles on it. Right from the second month I felt like the brake was stiffer and I always felt like I am going to rear end the vehicle in the front. Last one month it became really worst. The pedal feels lot stiff and I have to press hard to bring to a complete stop. Brake is not very responsive. I feel like its still rolling even after applying the brakes and I have to apply the brake very hard to come to a stop. It looks to me like there is a response delay between applying brake pedal and actual stop. I used to drive a Civic and this is my first Toyota so I am not sure whether this issue is common in camry.
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So tonight, I lost most of my brakes. If I kept at low speeds and pressed the pedal to the floor I could eventually stop, but not well. I imagine this might be more of a general question not specific to Ex's, but I thought I would start here.
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I have a 2000 oldsmobile bravada. When I'm driving i press the gas and it does not accelerate. The engine revs but it does not go. Then it will engage and will drive fine. What the problem is?
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I'm having an issue with my transmission. When driving it shifts just fine, but I have to let it accelerate slowly. If I press to hard on the accelerator pedal the engine ron races. So I ease up and it catches and slowly accelerates. For example going up hill, I press the accelerator and the car doesn't speed up, the engine races, so I have to just let the car slowly increase in speed by lightly pressing the gas pedal, no get up and go! Only occurs in 4th and 5th gears. What could be causing this. I have already flushed the gear oil as I had to replace the output shaft seal as it was leaking.
2000 Hyundai Accent 5 Speed Manual Transmission....
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When I drive the car makes noise just started. What I would like to know does the mk4 12v vr6. I have a differential and when i press the gas or release the gas the car jerks.....
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