Infiniti :: 1998 - Engine Working A Tiny Bit Harder To Startup And Accelerate On Highway
Feb 15, 2014
I took my 1998 Infiniti I30 to my mechanic for routine maintenance, and I noticed the engine was working a tiny bit harder to startup and to accelerate on highway in the last 2 weeks. They discovered the air filter and housing were completely burnt out! We're scratching our heads. Internet search and check with other mechanics- no clues. It's been a dream for years with routine maintenance, has only 125k, last service May 2013 since I only drove it 5K since then. I'm the only driver and it sleeps in my garage (secure, no rodents). What the heck?
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I have a 97 f150 4.6, when I'm towing a load and trying to accelerate a little harder either to just gain speed or climb an incline I get this terrible crackling noise from my engine as if I was low on coolant or low on oil. But all my fluids are good. It even does it when I'm climbing an incline not loaded. What this could be?
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Brand new. On start up when first accelerating I hear a weird bottoming out kind of scrapping noise and a tiny hitch in accelerating. Only happens once once after start up. Maybe 50% of the time this will happen on start up. What this may be?
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I have a 1999 Buick Regal GS and it feels like I'm continuously riding the brakes at random times and engine sounds like its working harder than usual to get the car to move. I thought I had this problem solved by replacing the master cylinder but I seems to be happening again. The reason I replaced the master cylinder was because I came out one morning about 2 months ago and started down my driveway to get the mail (I live on a steep hill) and I thought I had a broken line or something because I had almost no pedal and it was sinking to the floor. What confused me the brakes seemed good the day before when I drove about 40 miles round trip to town and then parked it overnight. (except for the brakes sticking feeling) I had the car put on a rack and found nothing more than a slow leak at the proportioning valve but I noticed on the way to the shop the car was no longer hard to move and was smoother rolling than it had been in a long long time.
The brake fluid was a little low but when I filled it to the max level the pedal still felt soft and would sink unit I had the master cylinder replaced, With the sinking pedal and all I was thinking its probably a bad/sticking master cylinder that maybe could have been applying slight pressure to all the brakes at once and now it was released. I purchased a reman master cylinder from advance and had it put on and it seemed to work great and my car was still rolling freely. The proportional valve is still leaking (small drip when pressed) but I didn't think it could cause all these problems. I usually have to pump the brake before I leave of a morning or my pedal will be soft and sink but not all the time.
Recently I noticed my car is starting to feel like it is sticking again and my last mpg estimate was 17mpg, I might be a little hard on the throttle at times but not all the time. The rims feel equally warm after driving but not real hot. I have replaced a lot of parts over the last 2 years so most of the braking parts are near new. All the brake lines have been replaced along with the hydraulic hoses. Front calipers are new Rear caliper I rebuilt myself Master cylinder was replaced over a month ago. Could it be the abs unit or the brake booster? A week ago the car rolled freely but the pedal was starting to feel hard like the symptoms of a bad brake booster.
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My 1998 Nissan Altima 4 cyl (auto) shut down on highway, would not restart, and had to be towed. My mechanic told me it is the computer. After seeing prices for new ECMs from a Nissan parts site, I am wondering if something else needs to be replaced. I don't want to put that kind of money into a 14 year old car with other problems and mileage of 155,000. Could whatever caused the computer to stop working be an additional cost. The mechanic provided minimal information and is actually recommending I get rid of the car due to a slow oil leak and control arm bushings that eventually need to be replaced. However, it just passed inspection and a few months ago, I replaced 4 tires and brake rotors.
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All of the lights that show up when starting the car are coming on when I am driving. After about 5 minutes of driving, it is hard to accelerate and the car seems to stall (like I am trying to change gears - it is automatic). The first time it happened, I took the car to a repair shop and they told me I had a leaking hose and needed a new alternator. I had them change the hose and took the car to my usual mechanic. After two days of driving my car, he could not reproduce the problem and said he didn't think the alternator needed to be changed. I started driving the car today and it happened again. When I got home and turned the car off, it would not restart.
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I have Acura 1996 3.2 and its a great car but about 2 months ago the Check engine light is on and when i try to accelerate on highway or just on high speed it wont go in the next gear at the moment but when I am gonna press the pedal harder suddenly it will accelerate in a second. Also when I am standing on the traffic light the dashboard starts shaking and its a feeling like a car is going to turn off. Its an automatic. And this happens more frequently when the tank is full.
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Just passed 30 months and 30k miles in my 2012 TDI SEL and suddenly the air conditioning fans blow harder as I press on the accelerator pedal.
To be more clear, as I accelerate, I can hear the windshield/defogger fans blow harder. When I let up on the accelerator the fan noise dies down. I tried adjusting the A/C settings to blow to the middle or feet only, and also enabling/disabling cabin air circulation. It only seems to be the defogger fans that do this.
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My 2005 Jetta gli 220k miles just spurred going down the road now every time I accelerate and get into high Rpms the Ac vents start to blow harder and feels like loss of power. It's fines at idle and first gear but 2nd and up its does it I'm stumped....
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1998 Infiniti Q45 ... Car shakes at stop lights and tries to cut off, unless I put into neutral and keep my foot on gas peddle, What is causing this? Mechanic does not know what problem is.
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I have a 98 F150 Supercab 4x4 with 4.6 and an auto trans. I have 107,000 miles on the truck. Recently developed a engine "tick". Upon start up the "tick" is very noticeable. Seems to go away after its been driven a few miles and everything comes up to operating temp. I have checked the exhaust manifolds, all studs and nuts are still there. There are no noticeable holes that I could feel in the manifolds. Read some other posts here that have the "tick under load". Mine goes away once everything warms up. What to look at or for?
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I'm trying to resolve a nagging brake problem on my 98 Pathfinder. In short, braking power is weaker than it should be, but I do not have sponginess in the brake pedal. I've bled the whole system a few times, and even changed the master cylinder - to no avail.
While performing a few tests lately, I noticed the following behavior: if I drive up a steep hill and start pumping the brake pedal with the left foot while keeping the right foot on the gas (to keep moving uphill), the pedal gets progressively harder to press and braking action diminishes accordingly. If feels a bit like when you switch the engine off with the car still moving (in neutral) and try to brake: as the vacuum in the booster gets expended, the pedal gets harder and braking action diminishes dramatically.
I don't think this is related to the act of going uphill; it's just that this is the only way the engine can develop enough vacuum for the symptom to occur.
This leads me to wonder if I have a vacuum leak somewhere (either in the line or in the booster itself) that only happens at higher vacuum pressures...
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Put in two starters in two years. This winter started having trouble when driving car - occasionally when I hit a bump in the road the radio and wipers cut off and if I pull over and restart the car they will come back on. My mechanic thought it was due to a loose battery cable and he tightened it up but, it is still happening. Also noted - when starting occasionally I hear a e-e-e-rk sound (I think the ignition) and if I turn key to off and try again it usually starts - sometimes it takes 2-3 tries. Infinity 1998 I30 Touring...
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1998 discovery. Replaced fuel pump, crank shaft sensor, battery is good, had tune -up. Driving on highway and car just loses engine power, still have radio, lights, etc. Pull over and start it right back up. Drive about 15 minutes more and it happens again. Starts again. Then it does it again, but now won't start. Clicking sound in dash on passenger side. I leave it sit for 2 days. Starts right up, then rpms start revving then stops and dies. I have had every diagnostic known run, no codes coming up. I have had local mechanic keep it for days to drive it. He is also at a loss. I am REALLY tired of replacing random parts to no avail. Not to mention the $$ I have spent.
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I normally drive my 2010 Prius. But I have been driving my wife's 2012 Camry XLE the last couple of days. (My Prius was clean and hers was not.
Well twice in the last two days I started her car and put it in drive to find it was accelerating uncontrollably! The harder I pushed on the brake the harder it accelerated.
After taking my foot off of the brake I discovered that my size 13 EEE shoe was on both the brake AND the accelerator.
Now knowing this, the same thing happened the second day! Luckily They both happened in parking lots and NO damage was incurred!
This has never happened in my 10 Prius or my 08 Prius. maybe the pedals are not as close or the Prius's low end power was not noticeable.
It would be ironic if all the BS over the floor mats came down to big feet or improperly placed pedals. My feet have been the same size for 50 years and many cars and NEVER had this occur before.
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I had my car in a garage for 5 days and it started up and drove fine. I went to the store got back in my car and now if feels like the car is working harder to move and the initial electric motion feels impeded.
Tires at 29-33psi. Oil was at low line. Filled it up....test drove and it feels the same sluggishness
The gas engine even sounds like it is working harder to move.
My car has over 200,000 miles.
I think I need a new cat converter....but I have been trying to find one...
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Recently my Infiniti G20's turn signals and hazard lights stopped working. I replaced the flasher relay and turn signal switch but it did not solve the problem. Here is the kicker or clue. The lights flash when locking or unlocking the car with the remote FOB.
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3 weeks ago my father (who died 2 weeks ago) gave me his 1991 Infiniti G20 which he has kept in great condition over the years with the last few being the exception. He's the original owner and I have paperwork from every repair and service it's had. Unfortunately the issue it has now started happening after he passed so I'm not going to get info about how it's been running the last couple years. Now to the good stuff.
When I got the car it was outside under a carport like always (lives near Seattle). I drove the car about 200 miles and then a couple days later I noticed the turn signal stopped working, but not only that there were several things not working. The turn signals (yet hazard lights work), the seat belt motor will not let it roll back across my chest, the blower won't work but the AC and heat still works, the rear defogger stopped, the ABS stopped, and the warning lights and sounds for doors open and seat belts were undone don't work.
Then while driving everything just "clicked" back on for about 5 minutes, then "clicked back off the rest of the drive. The next day I started the car, everything was fine but after waiting a couple minutes for the windows to get defogged everything shut off again. Driving around with foggy windows, no turn signals, and no seat belt across my chest is starting to scare me. Oh, and the problem can turn on and off without the engine on. If I just put the key into the "on" position it will sometime switch between working and not working.
I have unplugged and replugged the fuses and relays on the left side under the steering wheel, I've checked the voltage of the battery (2 years old with 7 year warranty and alternator was replaced 18 months ago) and it was about 12.4. I've tried reading the wiring diagram in the service manual without any luck figuring it out. When I took it to the Nissan dealership they did their scans and couldn't recreate the issue and charged me $100 just for doing the electrical tests.
I want this car to keep going since it has 174,000 miles and runs great (manual trans) so need to figure out whats going on. It doesn't seem like it's a loose wire because the car doesn't have to move for it to go back and forth between working and failing. It sometimes works more often if the car is kept in a garage but even then I'm not sure. At one point in the last year a couple mice got into the trunk but they have since left and I don't see anything in the manual that says they could have effected anything all the way back there.
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Just got my H&R's put on this week and it felt GREAT! But today as I was driving on the highway (stop and go) then road began to clear up, I felt a tremble (Shimmy) coming from the front of the car. I pulled over and checked to see if wheel lugs were safely secured and they were also check to see if there was any play on the top of the front shocks and they were ok I don't feel it in the steering wheel, I only feel it coming from the front. This has only happened once in the past but only when the car was parked with the ebrake on, but it was a very subtle tremble, I was wondering if it may be a motor mount that is either worn out or loose and or it will need a alignment given that it wasn't done after the suspension got put on.......
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I took my car in to a GM dealer and they replaced the fuel tank due to a leak. The cost was under covered under a special recall via GM. Now when the car is low on gas .. (Say about 50-60 miles left on a tank, or lesss) and I'm on the highway the car will not accelerate. When I try to speed up the RPM's drop and it seems like the engine isn't getting gas? almost like i'm running out of gas. I can still drive on residential streets going up to 40-45 mph but when i get on the highway it won't continuously drops and won't let me get up to speed.
Brought it back in , they replaced the fuel sensor... but that still is not fixing the problem. Below is link to a video of what it does.
Notice the RPM dropping..the whole time im trying to accelerate and pressing down on the gas pedal [URL] ....
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I have a 2003 Infiniti g35 with about 140,000 miles on it. Its been having a strange problem recently and intermittently. Sometimes when I first get in the car and I put the key in and try to start it NOTHING happens. I mean nothing. Not sound, no lights anything. If I slam the door and try the key again the dash lights may flick on for a second but then nothing. I'll open the hood for a bit and slam it and try starting it again and it will usually start again fine. It also seems to happen more when its hot outside or the car has been sitting in the sun. Other things notable about this problem is that MOST of the time, things like the radio presets are unaffected. That is, when the car does start it's not like it was a cable from the battery or anything since the radio was still getting power.
Another, possibly related problem, is if the car is running and I park, but have not turned the ignition off yet because I'm listening to the radio (those driveway moments) and reach up like I'm ready to turn the car off and just ever so slightly grip the key, the radio will die and the engine will keep going. These things lead me to believe that it all has something to do with the actual ignition switch where the key goes in. Of course when I drop it off at the mechanic it does not get reproduced and he thought it was the starter until I reiterated the fact that NOTHING happens when the key turns. It can't be the starter since when you turn the key there is no power to anything. This has been going on for over a month but I finally got fed up when I couldn't get it started after stopping at the 7-11 on the way to work. I took it right into the shop but the mechanics opinion is "if I can't get it to act up, I can't diagnose the problem" which seems kinda lame to me, but what can I do.
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