Infiniti :: 1996 - Die Constantly When Slow Down
May 8, 2013
I have a 1996 infiniti we bought in 2006 has ran good until the last 2 years. when you slow down at a red light or stop sign it will die on you. We have had the fuel pump, Mass flow sensor,starter, spark plugs,rewire harness for MAF and I think not to long ago the alternator was replaced also. But when you are driving the radio will turn off then the car will die the air also stops working. It does this when the weather is getting hot only does not seem to do it in the winter maybe a few times but the summer it is almost every time you drive it.
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My car has worked fine since I got it 1 year ago, I just put a new battery a few months ago but when I tried to start it this morning it started for a second then completely shut off. I cant even take the key out of the ignition (infiniti q45 has a button on the ignition that needs to be pushed while taking the key out and that button is stuck now.) When I open the door, the lights on the side of the door and the open door sound work but they are both very distorted and faint.
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2011 infiniti. new rear rotors/pads 6k miles ago. now there is a rhythmic sound with very slow speed braking. like a bad spot on 1 rotor. you hear a grind, stop, grind, stop. its not a constant grind sound. i looked at both rear rotors thru rim slots. rotors look perfect. very smooth. i have not pulled wheels to check. i am thinking rotors making sound vs pads making sound. but why would a rotor have an odd spot or rough patch? there is no ridge at all on rotors. cant see the pads rubbing on some rust ridge? there is none....
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I recently traded in my old '96 Infiniti for this great 2001 PT Cruiser. It drives great ,,mileage is at 76K and in very good condition .. except for this. Whenever I am driving and going over minor or major bumps I get a lot of loose RATTLING, clacking noise from the front end. Obviously from the tires bouncing up and down. Is this typical for this particular PT? I remember having that in an old Jeep of mine too. Very boxy sounding in the front.
My wife and I had traded both of our cars in..2009 Versa for a 2013 Chevy Sonic--1996 infiniti for a 2001 PT Cruiser
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2 days ago, our 1996 G20'S sun roof slid open as normal. Unfortunately It would not slide back to a closed position. The roof's motor can be heard running when both switches are depressed (for either function) ; sliding and tilting. The roof will no longer do either function. I was able to pull the sun roof closed by hand but could not make the back edge of the glass rise up to be sealed closed completely. Obviously it became disengaged from the motor somehow. Would it be somewhat possible for me to get inside of the roof to hook it all back together/replace parts ? Is the location of the motor behind the sunroof control panel?
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I have 1996 Infiniti I30. I have had to replace the brake light switch on multiple occasions. And even now it appears that I may have to again after replacing it about a two months ago. What would cause this, faulty switches or internal electrical problem?
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When operating my driver's side window, it is very slow going up or down. I have to get it go up by pulling on it while pushing the button or else the circuit breaker will stop the motor about when it gets about half way up. Sometimes I have to push it going down also.
When it is very hot outside, and the window is in the up position, it will not go down at all (very annoying since my AC doesn't work). It just does not make any noise at all when I push the switch.
I have taken the door panel off and greased everything I could and put silicone spray on the felts in the window channels, but the problem remains.
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1 have a 1996 Volvo 850 GLT wagon with the following problems and issues. Should I pay to get the major issues fixed, or use the money towards another car? This is my second car, it gets driven on a once-a-week basis, and I would probably replace it with another 10-year younger Volvo wagon or similar. * Check Engine light with "incorrect ratio" code - my mechanic suggests replacing the speed sensor, flushing the transmission, and hoping for the best; will cost at least a couple hundred dollars. Web searches turn up PnP replacement might fix this.
slow battery drain - replaced the battery harness as per Volvo's instructions, but there is still a slow battery drain that kills the battery in a few days, which I cannot diagnose. If I want to use the car, I make sure the battery is charged the night before. Unknown cost to permanently fix - solar panel in the front window?
odometer broken - the odometer broke at 125 K, the car has approximately 130 K miles on it. Mechanic estimates fixing the odometer is $500. due for a new timing belt - Last timing belt change was at 52 K; mechanic estimates $800 after doing "everything they like to do at this time, like the water pump." various and sundry broken interior cosmetic panels Should I do the repairs and hope to get to 160 K miles, or put the money towards a new car?
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i have a Subaru legacy rs 1996 twin turbo, about 6 months ago now i replaced both front outer CV joints and boots due to a grinding when turning at slow speed e.g a car park. the grinding had gone and its was all fine until now the same grinding as come back. its it normal for the CV joint to wear out that fast or could there be a different problem?
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My wife's car is a 2006 2.0T Passat. It has been very slow to blow cool air on starting. Once you are moving at highway speeds it cools fine, but then blows hot air when you slow or come to a stop.
I have taken the car to a mechanic who purged and refilled the coolant. This did not fix the problem. Upon checking with the mechanic, we noticed that both the primary and aux. cooling fans start and stop at the same time, and only would come on when I would rev the engine up some (around 2000 rpm).
I have talked with this mechanic and one more. Both are certified master mechanics, but neither specializes in VW. They believe it may be the high pressure side switch or the compressor itself.
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I have a 2008 Infiniti G35x with a push button start. The dealer recently replaced my key fob under warranty but now wants to charge me (about 1/2 hr labor) to reset the 2nd key fob, which I did not think to bring with me when the last service was performed, and which now does not work since the key fob was reprogrammed.
Can I fix this myself? Or is this something the dealer needs to do? I have seen many references to reprogramming Nissan key fobs but all start with "insert the key 7 times" and I don't have a key.
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car makes a noise like a jangling bracelet when I press accelerator. Doesn't make noise while idling.
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I have a 2003 Infiniti g35 with about 140,000 miles on it. Its been having a strange problem recently and intermittently. Sometimes when I first get in the car and I put the key in and try to start it NOTHING happens. I mean nothing. Not sound, no lights anything. If I slam the door and try the key again the dash lights may flick on for a second but then nothing. I'll open the hood for a bit and slam it and try starting it again and it will usually start again fine. It also seems to happen more when its hot outside or the car has been sitting in the sun. Other things notable about this problem is that MOST of the time, things like the radio presets are unaffected. That is, when the car does start it's not like it was a cable from the battery or anything since the radio was still getting power.
Another, possibly related problem, is if the car is running and I park, but have not turned the ignition off yet because I'm listening to the radio (those driveway moments) and reach up like I'm ready to turn the car off and just ever so slightly grip the key, the radio will die and the engine will keep going. These things lead me to believe that it all has something to do with the actual ignition switch where the key goes in. Of course when I drop it off at the mechanic it does not get reproduced and he thought it was the starter until I reiterated the fact that NOTHING happens when the key turns. It can't be the starter since when you turn the key there is no power to anything. This has been going on for over a month but I finally got fed up when I couldn't get it started after stopping at the 7-11 on the way to work. I took it right into the shop but the mechanics opinion is "if I can't get it to act up, I can't diagnose the problem" which seems kinda lame to me, but what can I do.
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I have a 2003 infiniti g35. With about 93k. When I reach about 50mph I begin to hear an off balance hum. I believe it is coming from the front tires. If I speed up past 70 I cannot here it or its frequency increases to where it is not noticeable. I thought it was my tires but I recently replaced the two front tires but the humming still is present. I don't know if its the steering, wheels or the engine. A few months ago I ran over a curb (drivers side) and had the front bumper replaced due to damage. I'm almost positive that knocked something off alignment, but I took it back to the repair shop and they said they could not find anything.
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I've had my Phaeton for about six weeks now, and I thought it would be interesting to compare it to the car I switched from:
The Infiniti M45 was the marque's second-best car available in 2004. Really, the only things it lacked from the Q45 flagship were a rear sunshade, backup camera, and electronic suspension. It had the same 340HP V8 VK45DE engine but weighed about 1000 lbs less. It's been pegged by Jalopnik as a future classic and it's one of the best cars I have ever been in, and certainly the best I've ever personally owned before the Phaeton. The most apt description I've heard is "Japanese muscle car" and I completely agree; Nissan even made a goofy video to that effect starring Chris Mulkey from Twin Peaks.
The car also probably matches the Phaeton in terms of rarity, if not being even more rare. It was sold for only two years, had less than 8,000 imported, and has an understated but unique look.
Here's how I think they stack up:
- Cooled seats: M stomps the Phaeton here. From what I know the VW system just recirculates cabin air through the seat; this appears accurate from when I've had the seat apart. The Infiniti system actually has a cooling element within the seat to further cool the air. The end result is leather that actually feels cool to the touch and makes hot interiors bearable more quickly.
- Rest of the seating: The M featured an exclusive grade of Japanese leather which is both comfortable and durable. However, VW's "comfort leather" is definitely softer (though I worry about marring it) and you can't beat 18-way adjustability. The M seats are more supportive with better bolsters, fitting its more sporting nature, but the Phaeton is definitely the winner in comfort and personalization.
- Driveline: No one buys a Phaeton to race, but the M really shines here. It's been timed at around 5.6 seconds for the 0 to 60 MPH sprint and if you've ever driven one it seems believable. This makes it quite fun as most people see it and assume it to be a "grandpa car;" they're in for a surprise when you floor it and the dual-stage exhaust opens up. Plus, I absolutely love RWD cars. The Phaeton will keep me safe and sound through winters in the mountains, but little else puts a smile on my face like flooring it through a turn and feeling the rear end begin to break loose. Just can't do that with AWD. It also gets a couple MPG better fuel economy. Add in Nissan's version of Servotronic and this was a car that begged to be driven, and driven hard.
- Gadgets: This one is probably a tie. The Phaeton has so many little things: the vent covers, the rear headrests, the self-folding mirrors, heated steering wheel, etc. There's all kinds of things to show passengers and discover when new. However, the M had a number of features that my Phaeton lacks; some were available as options from VW and some weren't. For instance, the M had a voice recognition system to control climate, stereo, and navigation systems. It also had a radar-controlled "Intelligent Cruise Control" shared with its big brother, the Q. The navigation system was DVD-based, which means no disc-swapping or slow reads, and satellite radio was an available option. I also don't understand why the Phaeton's easy entry function doesn't move the seat; the M would move the seat when getting out and in as well as the steering wheel. For me, I feel that the Phaeton has lots of subtle features that bring a smile, but the M had more features that I actually used and got benefit out of.
- Ride quality and sound level: Without question, the Phaeton is the winner. The M makes for a great highway cruiser, though it's ride is a bit stiffer and can't be adjusted. It's by no means bad, but nothing can compete with the silence of the Phaeton cabin and the stability of the 'Comfort' suspension setting. There's just no contest.
- Fit and finish: Again the Phaeton pulls ahead. The M features birds-eye maple trim throughout and high quality leather upholstery, but the rich finish of the eucalyptus in the Phaeton and the buttery smooth feel of the Vienna leather are unbeatable. The M was by no means cheap, but the Phaeton is of course in a class of its own.
- Roominess: I don't know why, but the M actually had its fuel tank in the trunk. This meant no pass-through between the rear seats and a disappointingly small trunk. It was also large by Japanese standards but at 6' 1" my head just grazed the roof, and this when I had the seat adjusted as low as possible. Plus, I could hold a conference in the back of the Phaeton if I so desired.
I hope no one thinks I'm picking on the Phaeton; I just think it's fascinating to compare what different manufacturers were doing in their best vehicles at the same time. As my signature belies I enjoy Nissan vehicles, and I would personally pull the trigger on an Infiniti before any Acura or even Lexus (I thought the LS 430 was a huge let-down after all the hype when I finally drove one).
The Phaeton was without question an upgrade, but there will always be a special place in my heart and wistful pangs for the M45 (more pics of mine).
What other cars have you all owned and loved?
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I recently purchased a used, high mileage 2004 Infiniti G35x (AWD) 145K miles from a reputable new car dealer here in my town. The car was impeccably maintained and clean inside and out. Just a week or two after the purchase my SES light came on revealing engine Code: P0430 (catalyst efficiency below threshold bank 2) pointing to a new catalytic converter in my future. Infiniti recommends premium unleaded for this vehicle. I found out my son filled her up with mid-grade unleaded. Is there any chance this could have triggered the SES light to come on? (Previous owner states he always used premium unleaded in the vehicle since ownership.) I also double checked the gas cap to make sure it was on tight. I find it extremely odd that the SES light would come on so shortly after the purchase. I mean what are the odds? Don't dealers run a diagnostic scan of their trade-ins to check history and for potential problems prior to selling their used cars? I test drove this car numerous times without any indication of a problem and right on the heels of the purchase it passed state emissions... now just a few days later, the SES light comes on. Why wouldn't emissions pick that up? I have reset the SES light (code) and filled her up with premium unleaded. Now it's a waiting game to see if the light comes on again. If the light reappears, I plan on taking it back to the dealer to work out some kind of "reasonable solution" to repair costs. I'll find out just how willing he is to stand behind his cars. I realize that this is a high mileage car, and I hardly expect perfection, but I didn't see this coming. What to do... what to do... By the way, I checked all the fluid levels ... no discoloration in the oil (fresh, golden brown)... no discoloration in the coolant... transmission fluid, good... all other levels are good. Car runs fine, no rough idle in cold...
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My G35 has around 115,000 miles and it slows down when driving, particularly when driving uphill. RPMs reach 2-3 and car begins to drag with an occasional jerking. I've replaced all spark plugs (don't think I've ever replaced them since I bought the car used with 40,000 miles) and I notice one of the coil packs and its spark plug was oily, but then I also notice it was not connecting to the spark plug like the rest the rubber tip was ripped. I replaced the coil pack, but the issue still exist. I just got back from a test drive and this time it doesn't lose speed so much, but still trembles, especially when going uphill.
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Long story short is that my radiator malfunctioned and mixed transmission and coolant. I took it to a shop and they did a flush of both the radiator and transmission after putting in a brand new radiator. I drove it home and it has sat for a week. I popped the hood today and there is a little pit of pink transmission in the radiator no big deal but the transmission dip stick is thick and pink so I know there is water still in the transmission. I have already concluded I will need a new transmission and was curious what will I need to have replaced? Just the clutch, the entire transmission, or something else? Also would it be cheaper to have it overhauled or find a rebuilt transmission and pay to have it swapped? I understand quite a bit about cars but when it comes to transmission I have not knowledge.
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I have a 1995 Infiniti G20. I was driving and everything was fine when my clutch went straight to the floor. It was incredibly arduous to pull back up, now the clutch is very stiff, almost impossible to push down. What could the problem be?
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My Infiniti I30, 2000 model, has been great for so many years. I got 245,000 miles on it and seems that it will go for another 245000. But, since last 15 days, I can feel a distinct knock from the bottom of the car ( it feels so). This happens after about 30 minutes of driving and I can feel and hear the knock when the car is stopped at a light or stop sign. The sound comes like every few seconds at uneven pace. I cannot hear it when car is moving. My mechanic changed the Air intake sensor ( pretty expensive) but the problem still persists. I put super unleaded and also STP engine treatment. The problem continues. Car is working fine otherwise.
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Twice my battery has died on me after driving some distance. Both times the dealer kept it and said there was nothing wrong, said I just don't drive it enough. Told me I need to drive 15 miles a day or leave it idling in my driveway for 20 mins to keep the battery revved up! The two times the battery went dead happened after some more significant driving. I left it in my garage for 2 weeks and came back, it was fine. This advice seems flawed.. I do drive the car most days and sometimes it is not 15 miles. Mileage is 20K now.
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