Impala - Chevrolet :: Overheating - Small Leak From Gasket On Water Pump
Feb 2, 2012
Ok so my car kept overheating and I saw I had a small leak from the gasket on the water pump. I replaced the water pump and gasket but then it would zoom straight to overheating. I then assumed it was a stuck thermostat and replaced the OEM with a fail-safe thermostat. After topping off fluid and leaving the radiator cap off until I saw fluid running through it took it for a drive. The temp began to climb to overheating but dropped just as it was getting to the red and then began to fluctuate. Finally heat came through the car climate system and all was good until I had to come to a stop. It seems that whenever I have to stop at a light the temperature rises to overheating.
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I replaced my water pump on my 2000 Excursion 7.3 about six months ago because it was leaking from the little hole underneath. Everything was fine until today I noticed a big stain on my driveway under the front of the truck. I took a look and the new pump is leaking. It seems to be coming from the the back of the water pump where it sits flush against the engine.
Could the gasket have deteriorated or cracked? I bough it from a local parts store called part source, so it should be under warranty. Any thoughts?
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Recently, I bought a new-to-me 1994 Jaguar XJ6 which had a small laundry list of things that needed work. Amongst them was to have the waterpump and belt replaced. Long story short, after getting it back from the shop (I'm a repeat customer) and 50 miles down the road, I checked things out under the hood. I saw that there was a small bit of coolant sitting on top of the pump where the mating surfaces meet. It appeared that was some weeping from the gasket. I'm a little perplexed because this shop hasn't done wrong by me before, but there's a first time for everything. Is it possible that the cold weather in North Dakota (routinely -10) is a factor? It doesn't appear to be a catastrophic leak by any means, but I intend to keep my eye on in it. In the mean time, I made sure the bolts nearest the leak were adequately tight and put some red RTV sealant where it was leaking. Is it possible this problem will "go away" or do I have to try to shake down the shop and get them to re-check it/fix it? Frankly, I'd rather not have to deal with them again, but I paid them good money to get it fixed.
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OK, we have a cavalier that is slowly dying but until we find a good price on a used car we are looking at it has to keep chugging along... It started to overheat about month ago, just when you go up a hill otherwise it is fine (doesn't overheat but a few lines from the red zone!). Mechanic said it was a head gasket and we have noticed that the coolant level is down slightly... can it be a head gasket yet still drivable? Also about 2 months ago the car needed a new water pump, flushed and filled, could it just be the new water pump was bad? No other issues, heat works fine, no puddles under the car etc....
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I had a leak in my water pump so we had it replaced and a new thermostat. Now it is overheating in just about 2 minutes and my heater is now not working. I was told that it is most likely an air pocket in the coolant. I have let the car heat up, not to the point of hot but over half way and shut it off, taken the cap of let it sit for a while and then trying it again. No luck so far. Is there another way to get it out of there? and would the cap have anything to do with it? it has been hard to take off in the past and now its coming off easy. It is the plastic kind. I am at the end of my rope here . the car runs like a dream, its just this one thing.
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My 2003 Chevy Impala stalled after driving it for about a mile. The 'low engine oil' came on. I noticed white smoke coming out from under the hood. I pulled the dipstick and it was out of oil.
I poured 2 quarts of oil and attempted to start the car. The car started after I pressed the gas pedal but shut off when I took my foot off the gas. I tried several times. It started butshut off when lifting the foot of the pedal.
I'm hoping it's not the head gasket.
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I've been getting the gas cap code off and on for years now. I can wash the gasket off and it goes away for a few months, but then it returns. The cap itself is in showroom condition. It's just the rubber gasket/ring that appears to be "segmented" all the way around.
Replace just the gasket on the gas cap for this vehicle? I know I can buy a whole new AC Delco gas cap from Rock Auto for $20, but to me that's wasteful. Looking at the cap, I really can't see how it comes apart, though. No visible screws, but it must separate somehow ... or would you just use a pick and pull the gasket up and off that way?
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Shop Manual says you need to remove the oil pan as part of the front cover gasket repair. Is that really true? Removing the oil pan on this car is a very complicated procedure. Want to make sure it's abosolutely necessary before continuing.
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So this car has been having overheating problems since I first purchased it. I've operated it, but I've had to keep the heat going full blast to keep the coolant tank from overheating.
Last night I was driving on the interstate, and it began to overheat. It was running hot for maybe 3 minutes before I was able to pull over. I let it sit and cool for probably about 20-25 minutes, pulling over on a dark portion of the interstate, before I started it with no problem and moved it to a safer location (it ran hot again, but this was maybe for 30 seconds before I pulled over and shut it off.)
I let it sit for a good hour so that it could cool all the way down from 260 to 140. I then attempt to start it. It turns, but does not start. At this point, I call a tow truck to come for it. About 30 to 40 minutes after this, I start the car again. It starts with no problem. I put it in reverse, and roll it back to see if there are any leaks. There's leaking from the coolant tank...quite a large puddle. I refill it with distilled water and it leaks some more but sits mostly. I then start it again, and roll it forward. The tow truck arrives maybe 30 minutes later, and I attempt to start it to line it up behind, but it turns and does not start. We have to put it in Neutral and turn it to get it in line for the tow truck.
We get to my destination, probably about a 40 minute drive, and he unloads it. I attempt to start it...again, it turns but does not start. This morning, about 8 hours after that, I try to start it...it does not even turn.
The oil is just fine, the battery is not dead (lights/radio/horn/etc. works), but the battery does seem weak since the dashboard lights are dimmed no matter how much I turn them up. Even though the coolant tank has been somewhat depleted, it was never close to being empty or bone dry. There weren't any "knocking" noises, there was no smoking or anything from either the hood or the exhaust.
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My 2005 Impala is overheating , sometimes, and only for a minute. (When it goes into the red, I pull over and turn car off for a few minutes.) The needle fluctuates, though. I read old posts, but my mechanic tried them. Here's what's gone on so far:
Replaced thermostat, flushed / refilled antifreeze , car worked fine for a day, then it started again.
He then took an air pocket out. He took it for a drive, it was fine. I drove it for a day, it was fine. The next day it started up again (needle quickly fluctuating, sometimes needle slowly fluctuating).
He replaced the upper radiator hose. He then drove the car (local and on highway) for 2 1/2 hours, it was fine. I picked it up and it was perfect for the rest of the day/evening. This morning, after driving about 8 miles, it started again. I'm dropping it off tonight. He said it is hard to know exactly what it is without trying things. He said next he would try water pump or radiator.
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I've been told that the 2002 Santa Fe that I drive has a small leak in the head gasket and that this will be a major problem for the A/C compressor in the not-too-distant future. Supposedly the compressor is located below where the leak is and that over time (5-6 months) this can/will cause the compressor to need to be replaced. Does this seem like a credible scenario?
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My 2002 Impala runs hot when pulling a long grade and I have to turn off the a/c. It runs fine every other time. New belts, hoses, thermostat and flushed completely with new coolant. The radiator is fine and a/c coils are clean also
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Recently the timing belt slipped and in turn shot several valves. After replacing the head and gaskets there is a small oil leak between the head and block. Can i tighten that head bolt a little? What is the best solution?
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Quick question, my 2007 Santa Fe with 3.3 has developed a small coolant leak. Every so often, I see a few drops on the garage floor and every 6 months or so I need to fill the reservoir with new coolant. So I took it in last Friday at a Hyundai dealership and he said that I need a new head gasket.
So my question is, is that correct? I did a search and most say that if you need a new head gasket, coolant would have leaked into the engine and oil.
When I changed the oil back in June, I don't recall seeing any foam or-or any indication that something is wrong with the oil. Even yesterday, I open up the oil cap and pull the dipstick, every looks normal. I assumed that not all head gasket problems lead to coolant in the oil?
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I recently had an issue with my car overheating so I changed the thermostat. About 3 months later it happens again. I know I need a new tensioner arm but I decide to wait on it. I take it to a place and have the radiator flushed and the guy calls me back to the garage and says your belt fell off... i was like o man, so he showed me how it would slip off the tensioner and i said ok and put a new tensioner on. He called me back and said he found a new problem my crank shaft pulley was wobbling a little. I didn't have enough money to have him check it out further so he said he would just finish the flush and go from there. after he finished the flush he said there is still a problem with the heating on the car. He didn't know if the problem came from the pump, the t stat, or something like a sensor. and it would cost alot in research time for him to find the problem and fix it. so i am going to take it to another mechanic. I have replaced the pump about 2 years ago, I replaced the thermostat about 3 times before the flush over about 1 years time, i replaced the stepper motors on the gauges since they went bad. and now I am at a loss on what to do next. I just wish that click and clack would come fix my car.
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I borrowed a friends 2000 Excursion with the Triton V10, along with his 3300lb, 28' trailer to tow a car from Ashland, OR to Reno, NV to begin a restoration project. His Excursion has 175,000 miles on it and made the trip down flawlessly, but as they say, "No good deed goes unpunished." When attempting to return last Sunday, had to turn around due to overheating problems. Analysis at a local automotive shop concluded a bad radiator cap. Attempted the return trip Tuesday and the same thing happened (only got farther due to the new cap and ability to hold pressure longer).
Finally got into a Ford dealer and have been informed that the truck has a bad head gasket causing pressure to leak into the cooling system. They suggest replacement of with a remanufactureded engine as opposed to replacing head gaskets, due to the time on the entire engine (who knows what else might be bad?). The vehicle can be driven around town for miles with no problems. But put that heavy load on it and grades and it spews out nearly "all" of the coolant.
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I was checking under my hood today and I happened to notice a dent in what I think is my water pump. Should this be cause for concern or something I can just ignore?
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I have a 2003 Impala with about 124,000 miles on it. A few weeks back I started to hear what can best be described as a "water gurgling" sound coming from my dashboard area or where the vents are. It happens especially when make a tight turn or something, it only last a couple of seconds and doesn't happen all the time. What am I hearing and what was the cause of this and is there any fixes for it?
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i just did a new timing belt water pump kit on a 2001 1.8t (aug engine code) the new pump has a metal impeller. i ran it in the drive way for mots of an hour off and on. figured it was good. took it for a drive and at 5 miles it overheated. Temp Went straight to 260 and stop light came on. coolant could be heard boiling in the system. when i let it idle and ran the heater i got the temp to go back down to 190. but after idling for couple minutes it started going back up. I don't think the stat is bad considering that the heater works which shows that the system is flowing.
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We have a 2005 4runner with 75,000 miles that we recently took to the dealer because the coolant level was low. Turns out we need a new timing case cover, oil gasket, and water pump.Question 1 - is this normal to happen on a 2005 4runner with 75,000Question 2 - How much is a reasonable amount to pay for this repair? Evidently, it is a laborious repair.
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I thought I needed a head kit my truck runs and drives great till I run out of coolant no smoke doesn't get hot I run out of coolant I lose my turbo. Pull over fill it up I'm back to normal I just noticed I have sweat marks on my water pump pulley.
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