Impala - Chevrolet :: Jerking During Acceleration Intermittently
Jul 13, 2015
I have a 2007 Chevy Impala with the 3.9L. It has just over 110,000 miles on it. I've owned the car for about 5.5 years. Back in 2012, I took the car to a local transmission shop. Here's the reason: Let's say the car has sat overnight. I start it up (regardless of the season) and go to the stop sign at the end of my street. When I go to accelerate, there will be a very short lapse and the car will seem to jerk into gear then go. This is a very intermittent problem and does not happen every day. The car will do this for a bit when accelerating from a dead stop and then the problem goes away.
The trans shop said the transmission needed to be rebuilt. Guy told me they've seen problems with the Impala transmissions and, if I remember correctly, that the parts used inside aren't the best. Looking for a second opinion, I took the car to a Chevy dealer. The dealer was not able to experience the jerking. I had the trans service done (80,000 miles at the time). The problem persists to this day and has not, noticeably gotten worse. I decided to take the car to another dealer last week. Same thing: the dealer could not create the jerking issue. Again, this issue is very intermittent.
I am not sure what to think or do at this point. I called a couple shops around town and have gotten the following advice/information:
1) Bring it in and we can see if we can recreate it, but can't guarantee it.
2) The transmission needs to be rebuilt (this without even looking at the car).
3) Wait for the problem to get worse so that it CAN be diagnosed properly.
One guy said he didn't trust the dealer mechanics, that they "just drive around the block once." I am not sure what to do?
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Two weeks ago starting jerking badly. Father said to check tranny fluid. It was low. Added more. A week later starting jerking again but not as severely as it did the week prior. Checked the fluid and it was fine. The next day didn't jerk at all...it didn't jerk at all until a week after that. I was out and about so before I left the parking lot I was in to go home, I shifted through all the gears on the column. Took off from the parking lot and the jerking stopped completely. Is my tranny slowly dying? No warning lights have come on yet (so is there a code to check?). Going to take it to a local transmission shop but wanted to get any other info I could. The tranny was flushed about 20k miles ago. It currently has about 145k miles on it.
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Without any particular known triggers, the car either will not even turn over, or sometimes the electrical will come on, but the car won't start. Wiggling the keys and steering wheel don't necessarily work, and I can't shift it at all when it's not on. Took it to the garage and left it there for days -- never did it for them. Starter? What to do?
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My mechanic told me that the fuel pressure is about 5psi low. Could this cause jerking/bucking during acceleration?100,000mi SS
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My 2007 Chevy Impala with the 6-cyl engine is, overall, a nice car. One thing I just do not like about it, though, is the electronic throttle. There is a quite annoying lag between acceleration on the gas pedal and response from the car It isn't just my car, all the Impalas and other cars I test drove when shopping for the car are the same way. Even the 2007 Buick with the last year of the 3.8 L engine had a touch of lag time compared to the 1987 Olds Cierra I had with its 3.8 L engine and mechanical throttle. I'm no lead foot but when I want acceleration I want it now and not later. Guess I got spoiled from 20 years driving the '87 with its giddy up and go.
When making left turns without a traffic light, I have to allow a much wider open slot in oncoming traffic than I ever did since driving the 1973 Toyota Corolla with its four weak hamsters under the hood. I'm not the only person I've heard gripe about electronic throttle. I have to wonder what about drive by wire is superior to mechanical throttle if it slows down the throttle response so noticably???
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I have a 2003 impala I just bought and it has an intermittent problem. Sometimes when I step on the gas the motor will 'slam'---kinda like if the motor mounts were bad but they look good and it doesn't always do this. Also, if I hit the gas pedal hard and then almost as quickly let off the gas pedal I get the same effect--shutter/slam. I suspect the mounts but they look fine. If I keep on the gas all gears shift very smoothly. Gear shift is smooth thru all gears if I floor it or go slowly accelerate so it seems not to be the transmission either.
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I have a 2000 Impala with 215000 miles and it keeps on running. It has developed a side-to-side shutter and only happens during accelleration. It smooths out once I stop accellerating. I have had a left rear wheel bearing replaced hoping this would solve it. Not so much. It feels like it is coming from the rear of the car. There is no movement in the steering wheel. Could this be motor mounts?
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My 06 2.0t has 73k on it. but i noticed at around 60k that when I brake, almost to the point where I'm stopping (like at a light) the car jerks or grabs...kinda like the tranny is catching or the brakes are grabbing. Twice I've asked vw to check and twice they've said they can't find anything wrong.
Warranty runs out at 75k, so I think I'm going to take it to AAMCO to have them check the tranny and see what they say.
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Anyway I have a friend with a Mazda Navaho. 1991, 5spd transmission
It jerks intermittently, and sometimes quite severely. Myself, and 4 other ASE mechanics, and 1 "old ford guru" are stumped. We know we have ruled out the clutch for sure....
We think It started when my friend put a clutch in it. He did not have the flywheel turned . When we looked at it, we were all convinced this was the issue....drive test and dumping the clutch in and out at cruising speeds could replicate the issue. However, he had just bought the truck, and it needed a clutch, however the jerking we think was happening before, but we didn't know as we couldn't drive it till we put the clutch in it.
So we re-did the clutch...had flywheel machined, and got a warranty replacement clutch just in case, and put it back together.
Same issues. so we checked, and tested.
1. Fuel pressure test- passed, no issues
2. Checked fuel regulator for leaks - none
3. Checked for and found no vacuum leaks-none
4. Swept, and actually replaced (3 times) the TPS -is working fine
5. Replaced the MAF - Thought we had it, as we disconnected the MAF and jerking seemed to go away instantly...however few days later jerking returned, and driving with MAF unplugged still jerking.
6. Replaced Ignition Module, checked coils, plugs etc...actually replaced plugs and wires as well
7. Disconnected Transfor case plug to make sure it wasn't the issue as well.
I really don't know what else to check. The motor runs fine, the trans shifts smoothly...the clutch is new and was done correctly. I run a small auto shop, and we have access to Mitchells, All-Data, and Identifix....all were no dice. It seems you try and research jerking and hesitation all the hits come up for Auto trans and Torque converter lockout issues. This truck is a 5 spd .....
I have owned many Aerostars back in the day (loved em, same 4.0) and I have never seen this
The jerking is random and intermittent...symptoms would be similar to a small child flicking a light switch on and off rapidly when it does it. power, no power, power, no power, and rapidly...it feels like someone herky jerking on the clutch but we have ruled that out....its definitely electrical.
Also, and naturally, even though it is Obd I we have checked and there are no pending nor stored codes....PCM thinks everything is hunky dory. No backfiring, no smoke, no misfires....runs like new except this perplexing issue.
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I have a 2007 2.0T and about two weeks ago the car started jerking while accelerating. It only does it when the engine is cold. Sometimes it does it more than others. Shortly after the engine reaches its normal operating temperature, it stops jerking.
I scanned the computer with my VAG-COM but there are not DTCs. I originally suspected the oxygen sensor but the jerking happens even before the oxygen sensor kicks in. So even when is running a fuel rich mixture prior to getting feedback from the O2 sensor it jerks sometimes.
I have just under 55K miles, so I am not sure about the spark plugs but I find it strange that once the car warms up it stops doing it. The cam follower got replaced about 12K miles ago. The air filter is due for change soon but I don't think that is the problem, last time I looked at it (about 3K miles ago, it didn't look that dirty). I need to check this one again...haven't had time lately.
The only thing that was done recently to the car was the replacement of the transmission valve body under the powertrain warranty. The first few days everything worked okay but then a few days after the repair the jerking started. Could this be a symptom of tranny issues?
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I recently bought a 1992 Celica GT with 250k miles on it. It has a rough idle and a couple other things that may or may not be stemming from the same thing that's causing the rough idle
Like I said, it has a rough idle and there is a bit of jerking sometimes during acceleration. The exhaust makes sort of a "put-put-put" or "chirping" sound at lower RPMs and the frequency of the sound corresponds to the engine RPM. I do know of a couple things that could be causing the rough idle and maybe even the jerking, but I'm not sure about the sound from the exhaust.
The cooling fans are hard wired to the ignition so they run constantly, so when it's cold out like it is right now it takes forever for the engine to warm up. Is there a switch somewhere that they are supposed to be wired through? Where would that be? Also, the previous owner did kind of a hack job of putting on a cold air intake and I think I may be missing some sensors, especially because it seems to burn more fuel than it should. What sensors are located on the air intake, or are there even some in the stock airbox itself? And would this possibly be contributing to the rough idle and the jerking?
Also, I do get some vibrations when stopped at idle so I think I may want to replace the motor mounts.
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I have a 2009 Tiguan 2.0T Gas 2WD Tiptronic Auto.
I noticed a while back on a cold morning that at first start the idle would seem off a bit.
I only would notice it for about a couple of minutes and then it would smooth out as I began to drive.
Lately that still happens some but mainly I have some hesitation or slight jerking as I accelerate now.
Mainly it will do it while starting to take off slowly/ when pulling a hill/ and when having to maintain a low speed behind many other cars.
I can counter act it a bit by stepping harder on the gas pedal(when there's room) and getting the RPM to go and stay over 2000 like on the highway.
If it is under 2000 RPM you can notice it pretty well.
I am concerned as I have not had this problem before and it is very well maintained and cared for.
Though it is likely due for a tune up...
What could be the most likely cause? I don't really want to take it to the dealer first as they would want a fee beforehand just to check it out.
It had a check engine light on for just a minute one day but it did not stay on.
If it stayed on then I could get the parts store to check it using the OBDII scanner.
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I have a 2010 Jeep Patriot and recently it has started to jerk as I am accelerating. When I get to about 2200-2500 RPM the engine feels like I have completely let off the gas and then put my foot back down on it. Once it showed the Electronic Throttle Control warning light but I have not seen that light again in the past month or so. Originally I thought it might be the spark plugs, but I have changed those and seen no improvement. What could be wrong???
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The car is a 2002 VW Jetta, automatic 1.8t GLS. 146k miles on it. Has an external amp/sub wired up by my brother who is an MECP certified tech and has been doing car audio and overall Audi/VW for years.
I was driving, nothing out of the usual, this car is my daily. Stopped because of traffic and my car died in the middle of traffic, the gauges (tach, speedo, gas, etc) spiked immediately, which I assumed meant loss of electricity, but my radio, headlights and everything else stayed on. The oil and Battery lights came on as well. Tried to start it, it was trying to start, and was cranking quickly, but wouldn't turn over. I got it out of traffic. I pulled my amp power and the car turned over and started driving like normal, so i figured there had been a short in the wire and that was what caused my issue. Drove about a half mile down the road, car shut off again, car said it needed oil this time. checked the oil, there was plenty, but i put more in to be safe, and it turned right over and i managed to drive it about 30 minutes and got it back to my house.
So, my brother and i look the car over, couldn't find anything really wrong with it, so we took it out for a drive, no problem at all for the first few minutes of driving. Car shuts off again, doing the same thing, but just the battery light came on. My brother jumped my car, it turned over, but as i started to drive it, it was a lot more rough with shifting (possibly tied to electrical problems because i know there is a solenoid cluster for automatic transmissions), i mean you could actually hear the gears shifting and the car was kicking through each gear, as well as my driver side headlight not turning on (just installed brand new xantec 6k 55w HIDs, but i dont think those are the problem because the problem started before i installed the HIDs) and died 3 more times before i got it home, having to jump the car every single time with symptoms the same as the first time it died without the oil light. Another thing i noticed is that the car seemed to only die when i hit the brakes and the car went to low RPMs, which lead me to believe a major vacuum leak. At idle the car also seemed like it was misfiring even though the CEL was not flashing, it just had the jerking feeling and sound of misfiring.
My brother and i take a better look into the bay area, and noticed that the top of my engine was covered in oil, from the intake manifold back. I know my car has been leaking oil, but not spraying it. We pulled everything apart, totally cleaned the engine bay area out including MAF, spark plugs, coil packs etc. The engine bay area looked practically brand new. Now i do know that my car has had a vacuum leak (no boost gauge to tell how bad, but the brakes were a little bit less responsive and the car was acting as though it was misfiring despite the fact that the coil packs and spark plugs are brand new) and we couldn't find where it was, and we thought that maybe that was the problem. A lot of the vacuum line was dry rotted and falling apart and some parts weren't even connected anymore from that, which we replaced all of the line we could find to eliminate the idea of a vacuum leak causing the car to die when i hit the brakes. We also tested the battery with a multi-meter which read variably between 13.8-14 V, which if i understand correctly is within normal range, but oddly enough we put the battery through a stress test including turning on defrosted, turning sound system back on, headlights on etc, and the voltage didn't read much different, still bouncing between 13.8-14.
When tearing things apart, we also found that the starter solenoid was unbelievably loose due to a bad transmission mount, and one bolt was missing, so we were thinking that could be arcing causing the problems, but when the solenoid was tightened down, the problems still persisted.
Started the car, let it warm up, and it seemed perfectly fine. I drove it into town without problems, but forgot my wallet at home, so i had to turn around and go back. Almost made it home, the car died while stopping at a stop sign. Tried turning it back over, nothing the first 3 times, let it sit for about 5 minutes and the car turned right over as if nothing was wrong. Died again when i made it into my driveway about 0.5 miles away and the symptoms repeated until the car finally just turns on like normal now, but the idle is at 1100 RPMS (not sure if related or not) even though the car is at the optimal temperature. I tried driving it again after the car starts normally like it does now, but it just repeats the symptoms that it has been, cutting off but leaving the stereo, headlights etc on. I managed to get it back in my driveway.
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I have an 04 f150 with the 5.4 and recently, within the past few months, I've noticed some "jerking" especially when accelerating. At first, I thought it was the transmission, but the jerking does not coincide with the shift patterns. It jerks and stutters around 45-50 mph and 1500 rpms especially under light acceleration. Not sure if one is connected to the other, but also have no real power, I'm barely moving under heavy acceleration. ...What could I be looking at? I am thinking it has several options, I just need to know which one to explore first...cheap, meaning fuel pump/filter?? MAF?? Or Engine Coils?
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My new LS460 AWD 2008 is jerking on 60-80KPH(37-50)MPH, when you driving without any acceleration.
I have only 900km on odometer. And it's started jerking from 0. I gave my to Lexus for a test. They tested it over 7 days, and now they are saying nothing is wrong with it. And it's normal for AWD version.( WHAT???? )
They have one more new AWD 2008 and it has the same jerking issue.
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My 20th Ann. Is jerking under acceleration. When I hit the gas pedal slightly hard it starts jerking. Every once in a while the CEL will flash on and off. I changed the spark plugs and coil packs, cleaned the MAF, and now I have no real direction where to go. Maybe it could be a vaccum problem...
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My problem is this: if I accelerate quickly (either flooring it or close to it), then once I reach about 55-65mph the car suddenly jerks horribly. Sometimes it's one big jerk, other times it's several small jerking movements. ECO transmission ...
It's not a problem at speeds under 50mph, but it seems once I cross that 50-55mph threshold, I can't put my foot all the way down or I will get the jerking. It will also occur if I'm going say, 60mph and need to quickly get to 75-80mph. The first time this happened, I was accelerating onto a highway and the car jerked so badly that I thought I had gotten rear-ended.
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When I drove the car on Monday a hesitation/jerking randomly came out of no where during mild acceleration at around 2500 RPM. The next day it was doing the same thing, but one of the times it made the check engine light flash a couple times then go off. On Wednesday I put fuel injector cleaner and a new tank of gas in it to see if that worked at all, but it didn't. The problem was still occurring then the engine light came on and stayed on. So I went to see what the problem was on VCDS and here are the errors that came up. Also I should mention that on Tuesday my battery died and I had to get a jump from someone, this didn't affect the problems, but I think it has something to do with the voltage errors.
A Summary of the errors is lots of things about "low voltage b+" and "engine misfires".
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] ....
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I have a 2004 Chevy Impala with 100,000 miles. A couple of times in the last year the car just wouldn't start. Everything comes on lights, radio, etc. but it doesn't even try to turn over. I took it in twice and the mechanic of course couldn't find anything and it didn't happen again until recently. It has happened 6 times in the 3 weeks. It runs fine, has a new battery. Mechanic keeps telling me they can't diagnose it until it happens when they have it. I have had it towed to them twice when it has happened and of course when they try to start it it starts beautifully. Mechanic is guessing it may be the starter but doesn't want to assume. My dad said he heard a caller this past weekend on Car Talk with a similar problem and they were told it was the crankshaft position sensor and to not even mess with the starter.
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vehicle overheated stopped made a quick fix on the radiator and refilled with antifreeze started everything seemed ok drove car home still everything was fine next day will not start. turn key to on position lights on dash and headlights good, turn the key to start position all goes dead. fuses are the good battery is good connections to starter are good engine not seized up. I get no code on my odbII. I have replaced radiator and hoses, checked all fuses in all four fuse box and side compartments.
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