Impala - Chevrolet :: Fuel Gauge Tilted To The Right
Jul 19, 2016
I have a 2004 Chevrolet Impala. The fuel gauge is not working properly and I'm not sure what could cause the problem. I'm not sure how to explain this clearly, but it seems like the whole gauge was tilted to the right, so that when the tank is full, the arrow reads way above the "full", and when the tank is empty, the arrow is in the middle between "empty" and "full". What could cause this issue?
Sometimes, when I turn the key on and off multiple times, the gauge gets reset to normal, but after a few days it goes back to being defective.
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About 90% of the time, my gas gauge on my 2005 Impala works just fine. However, sometimes on hot afternoons it has problems & it doesn't read accurately. For example, I will have a nearly full tank & the gauge will show 1/4 to 1/2 full, depending on its "mood". If I drive the car somewhere & turn it off, everything is fine after I re-start it. I have to drive it somewhere though. If I start it, turn it off right away, and re-start it, it still reads inaccurately. The car runs fine & there no warning lights are lit on the dash.
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I have a 2003 Impala with about 122,000 miles on it. On my recent fill up I by accident put in mid grade over the normal unleaded, now I now that won't cause any engine issues that I am aware of, but after doing this fill up my gas gauge is not working properly. When I start the car in the morning the gauge will go to where it should given the mileage I have driven to this point but as I drive the car the gauge goes up to almost full then down some but never back to where it should be. what might be causing this floating incorrect reading by my gas gauge.
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When I'm sitting still in traffic or going up a hill the temp gauge will go up. But it goes up real slow. You can set and watch temp gauge and it will just jump up every minute or so. And it has 2 fans on it but they won't kick on till temp gauge gets up over the half way mark. But when temp goes up i can raise the hood and the motor does not feel hot at all. What could cause this?
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I have a 1965 Chevrolet with the original 396 engine. When I purchased the car, I noticed the fuel pump was wet with fuel at the weep holes. I replaced the pump with a new one. This pump also leaked at the weep holes. I thought dirt may have been in the fuel tank and the check valves were stuck causing the leak. I installed a glass inline fuel filter before the fuel pump and installed another new pump. There is no dirt in the filter. This pump also is leaking from the weep holes. The pump only leaks when I give it full throttle and bring the car up well over 65 mph. I would like to retain the stock type of fuel pump. I'm wondering if the pump push rod is a replacement at some time and too long.
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I just purchased a 2005 Malibu Maxx about three months ago; it only has 19,000 miles on it. The fuel gauge never goes beyond 3/4 when I fill up. It does go down as I drive, so it seems to be working other than not registering full. A friend suggested trying Seafoam. Is this fuel gauge problem something to worry about? Or should I just keep driving and not worry about it?
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The fuel gauge on my 2000 Blazer is flipping from empty to full. (Even as I drive down the road it moves.) And nothing in between. The fuel pump was replaced about a year and a half ago. I've been told the fuel pump controls the fuel gauge. So I'm wondering if there could be a loose contection or if this is a sign the pump will go bad again.
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I have an 05 Impala. When I turn the car off, the heat gauge stays where it is. When I start it up again, it stays there until the car warms up and then goes up from where it was. I have found that by turning the key off and on quickly several times it goes down each time to bottom. What can cause the gauge to stick like that?
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I have a 2004 Chevy Impala with 100,000 miles. A couple of times in the last year the car just wouldn't start. Everything comes on lights, radio, etc. but it doesn't even try to turn over. I took it in twice and the mechanic of course couldn't find anything and it didn't happen again until recently. It has happened 6 times in the 3 weeks. It runs fine, has a new battery. Mechanic keeps telling me they can't diagnose it until it happens when they have it. I have had it towed to them twice when it has happened and of course when they try to start it it starts beautifully. Mechanic is guessing it may be the starter but doesn't want to assume. My dad said he heard a caller this past weekend on Car Talk with a similar problem and they were told it was the crankshaft position sensor and to not even mess with the starter.
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vehicle overheated stopped made a quick fix on the radiator and refilled with antifreeze started everything seemed ok drove car home still everything was fine next day will not start. turn key to on position lights on dash and headlights good, turn the key to start position all goes dead. fuses are the good battery is good connections to starter are good engine not seized up. I get no code on my odbII. I have replaced radiator and hoses, checked all fuses in all four fuse box and side compartments.
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Sometimes I turn the key and nothing happens except the lights come on but nothing happens. Then if I press the brakes, move the gear shift from park to neutral and back it might start. Sometimes I have to repeat the process a few times and twice I was stranded! If it starts then something unusual happens if I am going in reverse and turning the steering wheel sharply to the right the is a loud grinding, whining sound. It's not like the sound of a whining power steering noise.
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On my newly purchased 2003 chevy impala i believe my starter is going out. Outside of turning the key and nothing happens how does a mechanic test or verify its the starter?
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I drive a 2004 Impala with just over 100k miles and sometimes it just will not start. All the bells and whistles work fine but it just doesn't start. The security light flashes 3x and then shows a picture of the battery. I replaced the battery and it seemed fine for a few months, but then did it a few more times. I've heard of people spending up to 3k dollars replacing various things, making no difference at all. On most websites everyone seems to thinks it's the GM Passlock system...
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Recently the check engine light came on and coded out to the mass air flow sensor. I changed the sensor and cleared the fault code, but after doing so the car wouldn't start. After many failed attempts to start the motor, I disconnected the positive lead at the battery and reconnected it a few minutes later. The car started and ran smooth, however the check engine came back on and coded out to the mass air flow sensor again...
I let the car continue to idle and disconnected the lead at the sensor how the motor would react; it continued to run smooth....I then reinstalled the old air flow sensor and engine continued to run great...So with all this said, car runs great when check engine is on and code is not rest, however, car will not start upon clearing the code and resetting the light......is it safe to assume the computer is going bad and needs to be changed?
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So this car has been having overheating problems since I first purchased it. I've operated it, but I've had to keep the heat going full blast to keep the coolant tank from overheating.
Last night I was driving on the interstate, and it began to overheat. It was running hot for maybe 3 minutes before I was able to pull over. I let it sit and cool for probably about 20-25 minutes, pulling over on a dark portion of the interstate, before I started it with no problem and moved it to a safer location (it ran hot again, but this was maybe for 30 seconds before I pulled over and shut it off.)
I let it sit for a good hour so that it could cool all the way down from 260 to 140. I then attempt to start it. It turns, but does not start. At this point, I call a tow truck to come for it. About 30 to 40 minutes after this, I start the car again. It starts with no problem. I put it in reverse, and roll it back to see if there are any leaks. There's leaking from the coolant tank...quite a large puddle. I refill it with distilled water and it leaks some more but sits mostly. I then start it again, and roll it forward. The tow truck arrives maybe 30 minutes later, and I attempt to start it to line it up behind, but it turns and does not start. We have to put it in Neutral and turn it to get it in line for the tow truck.
We get to my destination, probably about a 40 minute drive, and he unloads it. I attempt to start it...again, it turns but does not start. This morning, about 8 hours after that, I try to start it...it does not even turn.
The oil is just fine, the battery is not dead (lights/radio/horn/etc. works), but the battery does seem weak since the dashboard lights are dimmed no matter how much I turn them up. Even though the coolant tank has been somewhat depleted, it was never close to being empty or bone dry. There weren't any "knocking" noises, there was no smoking or anything from either the hood or the exhaust.
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I have a 2007 Chevy Impala with the 3.9L. It has just over 110,000 miles on it. I've owned the car for about 5.5 years. Back in 2012, I took the car to a local transmission shop. Here's the reason: Let's say the car has sat overnight. I start it up (regardless of the season) and go to the stop sign at the end of my street. When I go to accelerate, there will be a very short lapse and the car will seem to jerk into gear then go. This is a very intermittent problem and does not happen every day. The car will do this for a bit when accelerating from a dead stop and then the problem goes away.
The trans shop said the transmission needed to be rebuilt. Guy told me they've seen problems with the Impala transmissions and, if I remember correctly, that the parts used inside aren't the best. Looking for a second opinion, I took the car to a Chevy dealer. The dealer was not able to experience the jerking. I had the trans service done (80,000 miles at the time). The problem persists to this day and has not, noticeably gotten worse. I decided to take the car to another dealer last week. Same thing: the dealer could not create the jerking issue. Again, this issue is very intermittent.
I am not sure what to think or do at this point. I called a couple shops around town and have gotten the following advice/information:
1) Bring it in and we can see if we can recreate it, but can't guarantee it.
2) The transmission needs to be rebuilt (this without even looking at the car).
3) Wait for the problem to get worse so that it CAN be diagnosed properly.
One guy said he didn't trust the dealer mechanics, that they "just drive around the block once." I am not sure what to do?
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My 2005 Impala is overheating , sometimes, and only for a minute. (When it goes into the red, I pull over and turn car off for a few minutes.) The needle fluctuates, though. I read old posts, but my mechanic tried them. Here's what's gone on so far:
Replaced thermostat, flushed / refilled antifreeze , car worked fine for a day, then it started again.
He then took an air pocket out. He took it for a drive, it was fine. I drove it for a day, it was fine. The next day it started up again (needle quickly fluctuating, sometimes needle slowly fluctuating).
He replaced the upper radiator hose. He then drove the car (local and on highway) for 2 1/2 hours, it was fine. I picked it up and it was perfect for the rest of the day/evening. This morning, after driving about 8 miles, it started again. I'm dropping it off tonight. He said it is hard to know exactly what it is without trying things. He said next he would try water pump or radiator.
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Without any particular known triggers, the car either will not even turn over, or sometimes the electrical will come on, but the car won't start. Wiggling the keys and steering wheel don't necessarily work, and I can't shift it at all when it's not on. Took it to the garage and left it there for days -- never did it for them. Starter? What to do?
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I have a 2009 Chevy Impala. It has 28,000 miles and since November my gas mileage averages between 20-24. I took the car to the dealership and they say nothing is wrong. This car was titled in Hawaii. I live in Wisconsin. Could the colder weather have something to do with the mileage or what else could it be?
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When I turn on my left blinker it blinks real fast and the front blinker doesn't work. I have changed the bulb and it still doesn't work what is wrong?
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2002 cheverlot impala . the oil pressure switch keeps going bad and the diaphragm bust and oil comes out where the plug is. had to replace four in over a year . why and what make them go bad ?
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