Impala - Chevrolet :: 2008 - Thumping And Clicking When In Park Or Brakes Engaged
Nov 20, 2012
I have the above mentioned car with 50876 miles. I noticed that the steering wheel causes a click in the suspension when turned left or right whether stationary or with the brakes engaged. Also I noticed a thump felt through the steering wheel while doing the same action. What could be causing it, I checked my power steering pump and the fluid is brownish-red in color and no leaks are visible either on the ground or around the pump. I also got under the car and there seems to be no leaky CV boots ( i had to look these up to know what they look like).
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I have a 2008 Chevy Impala. I've owned it for 14 months and put about 12,000 miles on it in that time. It's had basic servicing (rotations, oil, oil filter, cabin filter, etc. changes). It hasn't given me problems---but suddenly I have one and I'm not sure how major it is.
I made a drive from New York to Western Mass yesterday...couple hundred miles, but nothing huge. It drove fine all yesterday after I arrived...again, no problems. This morning, I went to start it...everything's okay. But then I went to shift it out of park...the button will not depress. I restarted a few times...no luck. I kept trying to depress the petal to shift it; I couldn't even shift it into neutral when not started. I am not sure what in the world is going on.
I've read numerous forums on this---it seems to be a common problem with these cars. What's not so clear is what to do with this. Responses range from---stick a screwdriver into some hole all the way to just go on and junk the car, it's useless. That's why I am coming here to get clearer guidance on resolving this problem, hopefully in an economical way.
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My wife has a 2008 Chevy Impala with over 80,000 miles. When the weather is cold, the heater will blow cool air while in Park, even with the car warmed up. Then, once it is put in Drive, the heater begins to blow hot air again. Again, all of this time the engine temp gauge is in the middle position.
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I drive a 2008 Chevrolet Impala. The car has had some electrical problems going back about a year and a few months that I have neglected to fix. The first problem was with the shifter not being able to move out of park without hitting the button inside the center console to do a shift lock override, which started last August.
The second problem was with the ignition not being able to release the key without hitting a switch inside the ignition, which started back in the Spring. I have just been rolling along promising to eventually address those, but yesterday the car radio stopped functioning. Then this morning the car would not start.
The electrical system comes on just fine (save the radio), but when I go to start it the car just clicks over. I did not leave any lights or switches on, so I am assuming it must be some sort of problem with the electrical system.
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My 79 year old father put fuel additive in his 2010 Chevy Impala. Don't ask me how much, or for how long... The Check Engine light came on. I never got a clear answer from him on what his mechanic said about it. Five to Ten fill ups later the Check Engine light went out on its own. Engine seems fine. Could this have caused damage to the engine or emissions controls? Would a computer diagnostic from a mechanic pinpoint any problems? Would you recommend a computer diagnostic be performed?
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2007 Chevrolet Impala 1LT3.5L Flex Fuel EngineAuto Transmission with shift lever on the steering column29,980 miles
Bought new Nov 2006 so is now four and a half years oldThe drive train is still under warranty (6 years or 60,000 miles). All recommended service per the manufacturers manual has been done. Book calls for first transmission service at 50,000 miles
NOTE: Previously at 19,600 miles the transmission cooler line fittings were replaced due to a small leak. Currently no evidence of a leak; no fluid on garage floor and the transmission fluid level on the stick shows right on the mark. Fluid still clean pale red and has no odor.
Majority of my driving is short hops with multiple stops, so the car gets heavy use shifted into and out of park gear. I do use the "parking brake" applying it after shifted into park and released before shifting out of park. I always have my foot on the brake pedal when shifting out of park.
PROBLEM: Having trouble shifting out of park on a cold engine or if the car has been sitting for an hour or more since turned off and put into park gear. Oddly enough, if I'm running a series of errands where the car has been in park for only 5 to 30 minutes, there is no problem shifting out of park gear. But if the car sits long enough for the engine to cool then it becomes hard to shift. The longer the time it sits in park the harder it is to shift out of park when the car is started.
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I have a 2002 impala that has occasionally not started. The problem started a couple months ago, once it started getting cold here in the midwest. Every few weeks when I turned the key, nothing would happen. It only happened occasionally, and after waiting a bit it would start normally. I did some reading and suspected it was the anti theft locking the car down. Today I tried jumping the car just to be sure it wasn't the battery, and all of the electronics were very dim. I heard a rapid clicking noise from the dash that continued even after I removed the key. The headlights were rapidly flashing, although also very dim. This continued for about a minute before stopping. I tried letting the battery charge from the jump for about 10 minutes, no change.
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I have a 2003 Impala, total mileage little of 122,000 miles, I bought the car back in Dec 2014. When I bought the car I got all the paper work on the work the dealership did on the car prior to me buying it. One of the things they did was put new brakes and rotors on the front. Since then I have replaced the backs. However after about 4-5 months I notices that from the front passenger side when I had to slam on the brakes or was braking from high speed I would hear a grinding sound coming from that area. I have taken it to two places and both have inspected both the wheels and rotor's and say they are fine, they commented that the pads were not the best but more then adequate for this car. Of course when they drove it around it didn't happen and it doesn't always happen. Both places said it could be the pads or rotors but without replacing them there is no real way to tell. How can they both be viewed as good and in good condition and I get this grinding sound from the one front wheel from time to time when I break.
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Back in December i purchased a 2003 Impala LS. It has about 103,000 miles on it now. Overall the car runs and drives great. However on very rare occasions I have noticed if I have to slam on the brakes or really break hard I hear a grinding sound. Now I have only heard it maybe 3 times in the time since buying the car and never hear anything under normal braking. I had the brakes checked and was told they didn't see anything wrong, but what might cause this grinding sound I have heard a few times?
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I have a 2003 chevy impala that won't start it does not recognize park or neutral but it recognizes reverse drive and 321 I'm thinking it's the safety neutral switch which I think is in the transmission. I can jump the solenoid and it will start.
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I have replaced the front rotors, calibers, pads and brake lines. I went through the process of bleeding the brakes by using the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front and left front.
I did this about 4 times - process was to pump the break until the pedal was hard then my son kept his foot on the pedal while I release the bleeder value. During this process I kept the master cylinder full.
Took the car out and the pedal went right to the floor when applying the brakes. The car did stop but not as I had expected. So what have I done incorrectly here? Is there something else to check?
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I have a 2008 Chevy Impala that I've owned for going on six months. It's treated me very well. I'm just now getting ready to give it a nice wash/interior cleaning this evening, but I noticed while cleaning under the hood just now that I cannot get the hood to stay up on it's own. I'm not sure what the issue is. I keep nudging it gently, but that's not working. As recently as yesterday I had the hood up when I was checking the oil...it stayed just fine.
Of course, the pre-2014 Impala generation has hoods without the manual supports. So what might the problem be here? I figure this car is a little new to be having a problem like this.
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I am the (once) proud owner of a 2008 Chevrolet Impala. I have owned the car for one year, putting only 12,000 miles on it (was 109,000 when I bought it.) The car has run quite well—I have not had any problems out of it (unlike the 1999-2005 generation Impalas). But, as many of you may have heard, GM had some massive recalls as of late. Many of the cars have had fatal ignition switch failures. Basically every single Impala in the last (my) generation has been recalled.
Take any other keys/paraphernalia off of the chain—basically, just insert the key into the ignition, unattached to anything. This is the fix for the time being, apparently—until they can get ignition switches for however many hundred thousand Impalas they have to fix.
I am about to make a 3 hour drive. Now, that wouldn't be the longest drive that I have made in this car (and I cringe at the idea that, driving 17 hours with a bunch of crap hanging off of my chain, that my car easily could have been one of the unfortunate ones.)
Now that I know that I cannot be sure of the safety of my vehicle, I need to know what to do in the case of an emergency. I want to know what exactly the situation of an ignition switch failure entails...basically, what happens to my car and my ability to control the car. Lastly, I need to know what to do if this happens.
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My Impala hesitates at 2,000 RPMs At every speed level. My mechanic and the Chevy dealer can't figure this out.
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My car has fairly deep scratches on the trunk, roof, and hood. It's a red, 2008 Chevy Impala. I'd take pictures---but it's too painful. There are numerous thin scratches on each of these surfaces. I'm going to take it to a body shop to get an estimate, but I know I am probably not going to like what I hear. No, my insurance does not cover this (I only have liability). So...Am I going to need a completely new paint job?
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My '08 Chevy Impala (116,000 miles) has had a recurring issue over the past few months. After I have first started it, and for maybe the first 15 minutes it is running, it has been 'shifting hard' from 1st to 2nd gear. Basically, the engine revs much higher than it normally would and it 'thunks' into second gear. If I intentionally push the gas slower it does not happen. The guys who service my car (not Chevy) told me that my Transmission fluid level is fine.
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I've owned a 2008 Chevy Impala for about 7 months. It's at about 115,000 miles. It runs great...haven't had any problems out of it. So far. But there are a few things that concern me.
When I start the car, I hear this squeaking noise under the hood. I do not always hear this---it seems as if it may be tied with cold weather, like it's something that only occurs in the morning. But regardless, it seems abnormal. It subsides after a few minutes. The other thing I am noticing is that normally within the first 10 or 15 minutes of operation, if the car is at a stop light I'll hear some strange humming accompanied by vibrations. Sometimes the lights will flash faintly when this happens.
When I first purchased the car, I had a mechanic check it out. The engine, transmission, radiator, etc. were in excellent condition. I'm hoping that this is not anything serious, but I figure these are still sounds that I should not be hearing with a car in good condition.
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I have a 2008 Impala that has been having interlock shift issues for about a week. The interlock shift button would not depress. I was able to remove the center console and take a look at some of the wiring. It there's a bundle of wires and there is a black wire that appears to be severed. From what I've read, this is a common problem with the Impala models from 2006 through 2008...it should have been a recall, but for some reason was not. How can I do a low-cost DIY repair on this that's going to be solid and prevent recurring problems?
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I drove to work this morning and parked my car (around 10:30AM). I return to my car at about 9:00PM. I approach it trying to unlock it using my remote. I keep hitting the button as I approach...it does not work. I unlock it manually and get inside and put the key in ignition...absolutely nothing happens. No lights, no dashboard, no...nothing.
Then I remember...I left my parking lights on the entire day! That must be what's wrong...
I go and grab some portable jumper cables and...boy did I kill some time trying to elicit a reaction. When I hooked it up, the car came alive completely...it just wouldn't start no matter how long I let it sit. I would simply hear a single click. So, I went a grabbed another set of portable jumpers and....same exact thing. By the time the tow guy came around, he tried it with his portable cables as well and...same exact thing.
I am trying to figure out what in the world is wrong. I replaced the battery one year ago, when I had trouble starting it. So...the battery is new and, by all appearances, in good condition. Outside of that, no history of starting problems whatsoever...which is what makes all of this so incredibly confusing.
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For the past several months, every now and then while driving the engine power will reduce and the Driver Information Center will display two messages: "Service Stabilitrak" and "Engine Power Reduced", and the ESC and Check Engine dashboard lights will come on. Shifting becomes rough especially between 1st and 2nd gears. After turning off the car for 10 minutes or so, the engine power will be restored and the ESC light goes out but the Check Engine Light remains lit. After a day or so the Check Engine light goes out. Otherwise the car runs normally. This happens at least once on every long trip where I am out on the highway - sometimes multiple times on a single road trip. It does not happen in short trips around home.
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Ok everytime I am stopped at a light or even when my car is in park, my speedometer begins to jump up and down, usually it will jus eventually stop, yesterday the engine started to rev then the car just shut off while I'm just sitting at a light, then my headlights began darken right before it shuts off. What could the problem. 2008 Chevy Cobalt
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