Impala - Chevrolet :: 2008 - Interlock Shift Button Would Not Depress
Sep 10, 2014
I have a 2008 Impala that has been having interlock shift issues for about a week. The interlock shift button would not depress. I was able to remove the center console and take a look at some of the wiring. It there's a bundle of wires and there is a black wire that appears to be severed. From what I've read, this is a common problem with the Impala models from 2006 through 2008...it should have been a recall, but for some reason was not. How can I do a low-cost DIY repair on this that's going to be solid and prevent recurring problems?
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2008 Chevy Impala. I've owned it for 14 months and put about 12,000 miles on it in that time. It's had basic servicing (rotations, oil, oil filter, cabin filter, etc. changes). It hasn't given me problems---but suddenly I have one and I'm not sure how major it is.
I made a drive from New York to Western Mass yesterday...couple hundred miles, but nothing huge. It drove fine all yesterday after I arrived...again, no problems. This morning, I went to start it...everything's okay. But then I went to shift it out of park...the button will not depress. I restarted a few times...no luck. I kept trying to depress the petal to shift it; I couldn't even shift it into neutral when not started. I am not sure what in the world is going on.
I've read numerous forums on this---it seems to be a common problem with these cars. What's not so clear is what to do with this. Responses range from---stick a screwdriver into some hole all the way to just go on and junk the car, it's useless. That's why I am coming here to get clearer guidance on resolving this problem, hopefully in an economical way.
View 10 Replies
I drive a 2008 Chevrolet Impala. The car has had some electrical problems going back about a year and a few months that I have neglected to fix. The first problem was with the shifter not being able to move out of park without hitting the button inside the center console to do a shift lock override, which started last August.
The second problem was with the ignition not being able to release the key without hitting a switch inside the ignition, which started back in the Spring. I have just been rolling along promising to eventually address those, but yesterday the car radio stopped functioning. Then this morning the car would not start.
The electrical system comes on just fine (save the radio), but when I go to start it the car just clicks over. I did not leave any lights or switches on, so I am assuming it must be some sort of problem with the electrical system.
View 19 Replies
My 2005 Impala will have from time to time a hard shift where there is a big clunk_usually 1st gear. I had it at a transmission shop last year and they could not find anything wrong. What is going on.
View 3 Replies
Why does my 2000 chevy impala whistle when i accelerate? it also seems to shift hard.
View 10 Replies
Got a 2004 Chevy Impala with 99K miles. Speedometer seems to be acting sporadically often. Sometimes, it will shift 10 or 20 mph "faster" than actual speed then, sometimes, it goes to the "maximum" speed on the dial and just stays there with the car on or off. Then a few days later, starts working normal again.
View 5 Replies
2007 Chevrolet Impala 1LT3.5L Flex Fuel EngineAuto Transmission with shift lever on the steering column29,980 miles
Bought new Nov 2006 so is now four and a half years oldThe drive train is still under warranty (6 years or 60,000 miles). All recommended service per the manufacturers manual has been done. Book calls for first transmission service at 50,000 miles
NOTE: Previously at 19,600 miles the transmission cooler line fittings were replaced due to a small leak. Currently no evidence of a leak; no fluid on garage floor and the transmission fluid level on the stick shows right on the mark. Fluid still clean pale red and has no odor.
Majority of my driving is short hops with multiple stops, so the car gets heavy use shifted into and out of park gear. I do use the "parking brake" applying it after shifted into park and released before shifting out of park. I always have my foot on the brake pedal when shifting out of park.
PROBLEM: Having trouble shifting out of park on a cold engine or if the car has been sitting for an hour or more since turned off and put into park gear. Oddly enough, if I'm running a series of errands where the car has been in park for only 5 to 30 minutes, there is no problem shifting out of park gear. But if the car sits long enough for the engine to cool then it becomes hard to shift. The longer the time it sits in park the harder it is to shift out of park when the car is started.
View 11 Replies
Ok so about a week ago I was driving my 02 impala and I heard a loud noise while driving at 30 mph and it lasted till about 50mph. well I had my dad take it down the road while I was at work about 5 days later to hear what the noise was wondering if it might have been a hub. Well I call him an hour later cause he ain't back he says he's at the gas station and it won't reverse. Well apparently the noise was just my transmission being loud cause it was taking a while to shift. I've never had a problem with my tranny but some leakage which I think is just the gasket I just know that theres tranny fluid under my pan on one side. So I went to auto zone and they got a code for p1811. So I'm wondering if it just needs a filter and gasket change or is my tranny gone. It still shifts into gears just takes longer in 2nd and I can't drive in reverse at all?
View 15 Replies
In the passat section, if you scroll through the many safety features of the passat, you'll see the brake transmission shift interlock. It states: your foot must be on the brakes to shift out of drive--in either direction.
But what about sport mode? Do I have to put my foot on the brake (and come to a stop) to engage the sport mode? It was my understanding I could engage sport mode at anytime (while in motion).
View 1 Replies
2011 Sonata. I just started hearing, and feeling as well, a clicking noise from the shift lever while in drive. I understand this is the interlock feature, however, I do not recall feeling this before. I also thought it only activated while in park, but I could be wrong. Is this normal?
I also am noticing a loud rattling noise coming from the engine bay, behind the speedo, under certain conditions. If I use light throttle, the 1-2 shift produces a loud rattling near 1900rpm.
View 5 Replies
I have a 2008 Chevy Impala that I've owned for going on six months. It's treated me very well. I'm just now getting ready to give it a nice wash/interior cleaning this evening, but I noticed while cleaning under the hood just now that I cannot get the hood to stay up on it's own. I'm not sure what the issue is. I keep nudging it gently, but that's not working. As recently as yesterday I had the hood up when I was checking the oil...it stayed just fine.
Of course, the pre-2014 Impala generation has hoods without the manual supports. So what might the problem be here? I figure this car is a little new to be having a problem like this.
View 8 Replies
I have a 99 f150 and it won't shift out of park. The taillights work and I tried to turn the key forward and move shifter to neutral but it didn't work. Is it the switch on the brake pedal or the interlock solenoid by the shifter?
View 12 Replies
I am the (once) proud owner of a 2008 Chevrolet Impala. I have owned the car for one year, putting only 12,000 miles on it (was 109,000 when I bought it.) The car has run quite well—I have not had any problems out of it (unlike the 1999-2005 generation Impalas). But, as many of you may have heard, GM had some massive recalls as of late. Many of the cars have had fatal ignition switch failures. Basically every single Impala in the last (my) generation has been recalled.
Take any other keys/paraphernalia off of the chain—basically, just insert the key into the ignition, unattached to anything. This is the fix for the time being, apparently—until they can get ignition switches for however many hundred thousand Impalas they have to fix.
I am about to make a 3 hour drive. Now, that wouldn't be the longest drive that I have made in this car (and I cringe at the idea that, driving 17 hours with a bunch of crap hanging off of my chain, that my car easily could have been one of the unfortunate ones.)
Now that I know that I cannot be sure of the safety of my vehicle, I need to know what to do in the case of an emergency. I want to know what exactly the situation of an ignition switch failure entails...basically, what happens to my car and my ability to control the car. Lastly, I need to know what to do if this happens.
View 14 Replies
My Impala hesitates at 2,000 RPMs At every speed level. My mechanic and the Chevy dealer can't figure this out.
View 1 Replies
My car has fairly deep scratches on the trunk, roof, and hood. It's a red, 2008 Chevy Impala. I'd take pictures---but it's too painful. There are numerous thin scratches on each of these surfaces. I'm going to take it to a body shop to get an estimate, but I know I am probably not going to like what I hear. No, my insurance does not cover this (I only have liability). So...Am I going to need a completely new paint job?
View 19 Replies
My '08 Chevy Impala (116,000 miles) has had a recurring issue over the past few months. After I have first started it, and for maybe the first 15 minutes it is running, it has been 'shifting hard' from 1st to 2nd gear. Basically, the engine revs much higher than it normally would and it 'thunks' into second gear. If I intentionally push the gas slower it does not happen. The guys who service my car (not Chevy) told me that my Transmission fluid level is fine.
View 2 Replies
having problem w/ 98 f-150. first truck stuck in park. figured out how to get around that (turn key 1 position, shift to neutral, start vehicle, then engage transmission). but no brake lights! I have turn signals, driving lights, hazards, etc in rear. I disconnected harness from brake light switch. there are 2 leads, 1 hot, 1 not. i jumped them and no brake lights. i tested the switch and it functions properly (it's reconnected now). i changed my bulbs in tail lights. I unplugged the solenoid (which is impossibly located behind/beside steering column). this allowed me to shift like an old truck (without having to brake first), but doesn't solve my lack of brake lights (i've reattached the solenoid harness to remind me of my problems).
i am putting my money on a broken wire somewhere between the brake light switch (b/c that was good) and the solenoid (i am not hearing that faint click when i step on brake). but a broken wire should work by accident some of the time (unless cut cleanly and completely). there is a green wire with red stripe leaving the brake light switch and 3 wires at the solenoid harness (1 green and maybe a smaller gauge than those at the switch and 2 others which i don't recall their colors). Ford service manager doesn't think it's the solenoid but wasn't otherwise useful except to say, "hey, why don't you bring it in to me." What to look for before i plunk down for someone to perform what I already have before completing the job!
can i splice a wire from something (? brake light switch?) to something (?wire in solenoid harness?) or does that "electronic signal" get processed somewhere else first?
View 14 Replies
I've owned a 2008 Chevy Impala for about 7 months. It's at about 115,000 miles. It runs great...haven't had any problems out of it. So far. But there are a few things that concern me.
When I start the car, I hear this squeaking noise under the hood. I do not always hear this---it seems as if it may be tied with cold weather, like it's something that only occurs in the morning. But regardless, it seems abnormal. It subsides after a few minutes. The other thing I am noticing is that normally within the first 10 or 15 minutes of operation, if the car is at a stop light I'll hear some strange humming accompanied by vibrations. Sometimes the lights will flash faintly when this happens.
When I first purchased the car, I had a mechanic check it out. The engine, transmission, radiator, etc. were in excellent condition. I'm hoping that this is not anything serious, but I figure these are still sounds that I should not be hearing with a car in good condition.
View 6 Replies
I drove to work this morning and parked my car (around 10:30AM). I return to my car at about 9:00PM. I approach it trying to unlock it using my remote. I keep hitting the button as I approach...it does not work. I unlock it manually and get inside and put the key in ignition...absolutely nothing happens. No lights, no dashboard, no...nothing.
Then I remember...I left my parking lights on the entire day! That must be what's wrong...
I go and grab some portable jumper cables and...boy did I kill some time trying to elicit a reaction. When I hooked it up, the car came alive completely...it just wouldn't start no matter how long I let it sit. I would simply hear a single click. So, I went a grabbed another set of portable jumpers and....same exact thing. By the time the tow guy came around, he tried it with his portable cables as well and...same exact thing.
I am trying to figure out what in the world is wrong. I replaced the battery one year ago, when I had trouble starting it. So...the battery is new and, by all appearances, in good condition. Outside of that, no history of starting problems whatsoever...which is what makes all of this so incredibly confusing.
View 19 Replies
My wife has a 2008 Chevy Impala with over 80,000 miles. When the weather is cold, the heater will blow cool air while in Park, even with the car warmed up. Then, once it is put in Drive, the heater begins to blow hot air again. Again, all of this time the engine temp gauge is in the middle position.
View 2 Replies
I have the above mentioned car with 50876 miles. I noticed that the steering wheel causes a click in the suspension when turned left or right whether stationary or with the brakes engaged. Also I noticed a thump felt through the steering wheel while doing the same action. What could be causing it, I checked my power steering pump and the fluid is brownish-red in color and no leaks are visible either on the ground or around the pump. I also got under the car and there seems to be no leaky CV boots ( i had to look these up to know what they look like).
View 5 Replies
