Impala - Chevrolet :: 2005 - P0141 Code Did Not Stop Occurring After Both Sensors Changed
Nov 15, 2011
I have a 2005 Impala with the 3.4 engine and 118,000 miles. About 2 years ago I had a code P0141 and since we didn't know for sure which oxygen sensor was out we replaced both of them. The P0141 code did not stop occurring after both sensors were changed. I read on an Impala forum that if you didn't replace the sensors with AC Delco the codes would continue so I didn't worry about it until my gas mileage starting going down recently. I ordered new AC Delco oxygen sensors and my husband replaced them Saturday, the old ones were sooted up pretty badly. Today a new code appeared, it is P0140, O2 sensor circuit no activity. What the problem might be now.
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I changed both oxygen sensors yesterday on my 1997 Accord.
Check Engine Light was on and I was getting codes:
P0135 - O2 Sensor Heater Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0141 - O2 Sensor Heater Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2
Also, after clearing the codes, if I started the vehicle the codes would come on instantly. So it wasn't some kind of flaky electrical issue, it was consistent.
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I've changed the upper and lower O2 sensors the Manifold/Cat and still getting the code. Was wondering if the the valve guide seals would give off this code.
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I have a 2011 Chevy Impala. When accelerating from a stop it will frequently stutter then jerk forward. The first time this happened I thought someone had rear-ended me.
I've been to the dealer several times about this however they say they cannot isolate the cause. More importantly I can't seem to get the vehicle to repeat this problem when I've brought it to the dealership.
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I have an '01 Impala, 3.8 engine with 200k miles. Whenever the engine idles, at a stop, or in a parking spot, the idle will drop, then the car will stall. It will start right back up, but unless you are actively pressing the accelerator, the same thing occurs. There's no sputtering or performance issues, and nothing to indicate that it's about to stall. I've replaced the IAC valve, AND the EGR valve. Still having the same issue.
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I got this car from someone and I just noticed none of the gauges on the dashboard work! Everything else works fine and the mileage still shows, engine notifications still show, etc.It's a 2005 Chevy Impala. What might be wrong?
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There is an odor when it idles both in and out of the car but only after some driving - if I sit there a while the smell goes away. It is most noticeable when I get off the highway on my way to work and sit at a stop light. If i have to sit and wait for someone, the smell dissipates. I cannot find a leak. There is a performance issue but I'm not sure if it's related. At highway speeds it is having trouble accelerating - if I'm at 55 and want to go to 65, it'll go but it feels like there's resistance, almost a pulling, it causes the car to rock back and forth a bit - again it only happens at higher speeds. It has 140000 and is in good shape (except for things mentioned). The last repair was a water pump replacement about 4 months ago.
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I got a code reading of P1404 on a 2000 Impala from the parts store, but they can't say for sure what it means. What this would be? The service vehicle soon light comes on.
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I've been getting the gas cap code off and on for years now. I can wash the gasket off and it goes away for a few months, but then it returns. The cap itself is in showroom condition. It's just the rubber gasket/ring that appears to be "segmented" all the way around.
Replace just the gasket on the gas cap for this vehicle? I know I can buy a whole new AC Delco gas cap from Rock Auto for $20, but to me that's wasteful. Looking at the cap, I really can't see how it comes apart, though. No visible screws, but it must separate somehow ... or would you just use a pick and pull the gasket up and off that way?
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About 90% of the time, my gas gauge on my 2005 Impala works just fine. However, sometimes on hot afternoons it has problems & it doesn't read accurately. For example, I will have a nearly full tank & the gauge will show 1/4 to 1/2 full, depending on its "mood". If I drive the car somewhere & turn it off, everything is fine after I re-start it. I have to drive it somewhere though. If I start it, turn it off right away, and re-start it, it still reads inaccurately. The car runs fine & there no warning lights are lit on the dash.
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I have a 2000 Impala with a 3800 V6 series 2 with 165,000 miles. The only code I had was a P0300 Multiple random misfire that occured off and on at first, Worse in the city Better on Highway. It would start running on half the cylinders and bogged down, with the check engine light flashing, after getting onto the highway it would straighten itself out at first. I thought i had water in the gas so i ran some heat through it. straightened out for a day then happened again so I thought maybe a should run some premium gas in it, The car ran like total crap until the premium was gone, so i thought maybe it's running too rich, I put 87octane in it and it ran great for a day or two, then it gradually got worse to where it would not straighten up on the highway, tried to die at stoplights and i had to drive it with 2 feet to get it home and park it. I've replaced the battery, spark plugs, wires, ICM checked good, coil packs are good, replaced fuel Pressure regulator, looked for arcing on the spark plug heat shields and it will not start. It turns over but doesn't try to ignite and when I get the slightest rumble of ignition, it backfires up through the manifold and I see a puff of gas or light smoke by the exhaust manifold.
The car had a vacuum leak around the intake manifold cover gasket and a leak on the fuel rail. I pulled the fuel rail off my impala, snugged up the rest of the intake bolts then disassembled the fuel rail, flushed it out and cleaned the injectors the best i could, then reassembled it. before i re-installed the fuel rail I hooked it up to the fuel lines outside of the engine and tried to start the vehicle. all injectors had a nice spray pattern. So i installed the rail and it still didn't start but it had more combustion than before although it's still backfiring like before. Checked the fuel pressure by turning the key on and the fuel pressure went to zero very fast. I blew the rail out with air so to make sure i didn't damage the regulator I replaced it with the old one, ran the test again with same results, so i reinstalled the new regulator. I performed the fuel pressure test a few more times while moving the fuel hoses and when i moved the back supply line the vacuum loss stopped then dropped to zero when i let off of it. So I replaced the fuel line connector and O-rings on the injectors. It no longer has a vacuum leak.
I cleaned the EGR Valve out and had no luck there, then I removed the Idle Air Control Valve-pushed the pintle in, re-ionstalled it and WooHoo! it started! Although it still ran like crap with the same random misfire I was still happy to hear it start.I pulled the plugs on it to do a compression test and all 6 cylinders have between 180-190psi so the engine is in good condition mechanically. I installed new plugs before getting the car restarted and when i removed them for the test they were covered in thick black soot after running for roughly 15 minutes max.
I have (2) 2000 Chevy Impala's so I've swapped sensors from my wifes car to see if it would fix it. I've tested the following MAP, MAF, IAC, coil packs and ECM. None of these made the car change. I believe it is a timing chain because the car has never had a new timing chain and is way overdue, but I haven't had a code for a crankshaft position sensor. Can the timing chain be bad without throwing a code? It's not out of time enough to change the valve timing because I had a good compression test but its not firing right and still has the multiple random misfire. I have not checked or received a trouble code for o2 sensors, crankshaft position sensor or cam sensor. Something has the timing retarded and is dumping extra fuel into the engine because my new plugs looked like they were in the engine for a year.
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I have a 00 impala w 4t65e tranny I believe I have a p1811 code of hard and long shifting. I also need both cv axles replaced. If i replace the axles and have then dropped. Is it possible with the pcs going out, i would be able to drive 600 miles both way to a family thing without getting stranded.
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I recently had an issue with my car overheating so I changed the thermostat. About 3 months later it happens again. I know I need a new tensioner arm but I decide to wait on it. I take it to a place and have the radiator flushed and the guy calls me back to the garage and says your belt fell off... i was like o man, so he showed me how it would slip off the tensioner and i said ok and put a new tensioner on. He called me back and said he found a new problem my crank shaft pulley was wobbling a little. I didn't have enough money to have him check it out further so he said he would just finish the flush and go from there. after he finished the flush he said there is still a problem with the heating on the car. He didn't know if the problem came from the pump, the t stat, or something like a sensor. and it would cost alot in research time for him to find the problem and fix it. so i am going to take it to another mechanic. I have replaced the pump about 2 years ago, I replaced the thermostat about 3 times before the flush over about 1 years time, i replaced the stepper motors on the gauges since they went bad. and now I am at a loss on what to do next. I just wish that click and clack would come fix my car.
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2006 Avalon Limited: getting a P0015 code. My mechanic says it has to do with cam sensors(?) "cam pos actuator b bank 1: timing over retarded." Dealer told mechanic that they've never seen one of these sensors go and to check the wiring harness for damage; mechanic found none. 153,000 miles.
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Recently I've been noticing a gas smell after parking my car after the drive home from work, but engine performance and mileage efficiency didn't seem affected, and I found no visible evidence of leaking on the ground (nor in the engine, but I likely don't know the right places to look).
Today, with the engine running, I looked around the engine to see if I could locate any gas leakage -- I located the fuel pressure regulator (I think; a golf-ball sized acorn on the right of the engine with a hose coming in the top and a pipe coming out the bottom and going down and to the left) and didn't see any leaking during my brief test. I'll check it again after my drive home tonight.
One new thing I did discover, though; while in park, when I slowly pressed on the accelerator, there would be a point where the engine started losing power and going into a rev/slowdown cycle: about a second or two of revving, then a half second of slowing down. This was while cold and in park; I've not experienced this in normal driving.
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Last night at 2am and it was about 10 degrees out (I say the temp because it might matter?) I started my car, let it warm up to normal running standard and backed up. My car moved backwards but the wheel would not turn at all. I pull forward into my parking spot and noticed that the wheel is extremely hard to turn left or right... almost impossible.
I check under the hood and noticed that my car was leaking something onto the group but it was dark and I couldn't quite see what it was.
Checked this morning and I found that my power steering fluid was completely empty. I had a half bottle in my trunk and put it in my car, then turned my car on. All of a sudden I noticed that the fluid is leaking onto the ground. Not really leak, more like a slow/medium pour and the wheel still wouldn't not move.
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I have a 2006 Buick Lucerne. The wheels were losing chrome and were oxidizing. I just bought some new "Koenig Unknown" wheels for it. I took it to the local shop to have the new wheels put on And one of the tires had some bad scuffing on the sidewall. The mechanic said it was too much damage on the tire and that he could not mount it on the new rim. So, I took it home and did it myself.
The duct tape that I used under on the flat bar was not sufficient and I ended up putting some rather deep nicks on the edge of the new rim. Though you cannot see it them unless you look very close, I know that these digs can be sources of corrosion. The lip of the rims are a polished mirror-like aluminum finish. I am sure they have some clearcoat on them and that is what I have damaged. How I can fix them to prevent any corrosion from happening.
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Further reading suggests it could be the fuse blown causing this code, this code was coming up among others with the old lambda, so at least it cleared some codes.
Where is the fuse located for the O2 sensor? Will try that. How much more fuel will it be using also? Used half a tank doing approx 110 miles surely that's not right?
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I just bought a 03 2.0 and ive been trying to fix her back up, she is almost there, just waiting on my first gear getter from diesel geeks and trying to figure out why these codes (p0420 and p0141) keep coming back on. Originally it was just a p0420 code so i took out the upstream sensor and cleaned it, then i took out the backstream and after examining it figured it should be replaced.
I went and bought a new one and replaced it, within the next 2 days the check engine light came back on throwing the original p0420 code along with p0141 this time. So i took out the new down stream 02 sensor and took it back to autozone and they swapped it out with a new one for me free of charge. So i put the newest 02 sensor in and then within 2 days, both codes p0420 & p0141 came back on. Two 02 sensor heating wires being bad i feel is a pretty slim chance. What is possibly the cause for these two codes repeatedly being thrown?
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Still getting p0174 error after upsteam downstream, checked everything.
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We just bought a 2002 Camry with 72,000 miles 2 months ago. It now has 74,000 and while on vacation the CEL came on. I took it to a mechanic who got the code P-0304 off the computer. He swapped the number 4 ign. coil pack with the number 3 cylinder. The CEL light went off and I was able to drive the 300 miles home. The next day the CEL started again, but this time it's flashing. I changed the spark plug, it looked good, and still have the CEL on with the P-0304 code.
I've inspected the wiring to the number 4 ign. coil pack and it looks good. I'm thinking the next thing would be the fuel injector.
The car runs great, you'd never know by driving it that there is a misfire occurring. If it's not the wiring or fuel injector what should I check for next?
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