I got this car from someone and I just noticed none of the gauges on the dashboard work! Everything else works fine and the mileage still shows, engine notifications still show, etc.It's a 2005 Chevy Impala. What might be wrong?
View 3 RepliesMy 2005 impala started just fine this morning. Went to car wash(never made it) and the dash gauge lights began to flicker, abs, air bag, battery, brake light, gas gauge went hay wire. It did this intermittently. I checked the battery connection .. No issues ... Checked the charge it reads 14.2 steady even when flickering. The car still runs smooth and continues to start just fine. 3.4 chevy impala 2005 ... 134k
View 1 Replies2003 impala 3800 ... My battery drains if i leave it hooked up over night: and the gauges will sometimes start to click and flicker and move when the key is out of the ignition: I have changed batteries 3 times in 1 yr and checked the alternator, everything is fine, I'm tired of disconnecting my battery every night before bedtime..
View 11 RepliesI inherited this car from my parents a couple years ago with about 80,000 miles. It ran great for awhile, then the air conditioner and the gauges would quit working while driving. After a few minutes they would resume working and everything would go back to normal. Now it will start sometimes and will not start at other times. I have replaced the battery two times and it seemed to work for a short period. I have had several mechanics look at it. After checking the code and replacing a fuse or sensor and replacing the ignition switch the car is still doing the same thing and no one has a clue what is going on. It seems to me that it may happen more often when going over a bump. What could be causing this?
View 2 Replies2001 Chevy Impala. Blinkers only work occasionally. I suspect it has something to do with the tilt steering causing a short in the connection. Just bought the car and trying to work out some of the bugs.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT with 94k miles. On cold mornings I have consistent problems with the car's electronics. They can be as benign as a warning bell about 2-3 minutes after starting driving. Sometimes, one of the warning lights will accompany the bell (power steering, traction control, etc), and then return to normal. Some mornings, all of the gauges will not work/stop working for the first 2-3 minutes of driving and then return to normal. The worst case scenario is that the car will not start at all. All lights, radio, etc. will work, but the car will not crank. I have had the car to a couple of shops where they have tested the battery and starter.
Both are new and working fine. No codes are ever generated. My question is how can I go about isolating what appears to be an electrical (or electronic) fault somewhere in the system that gets aggravated by cold weather. I read in another forum that the ignition system in other GM cars (the Saturn ION was one example) would trigger a fault in the ignition system in cold weather and the KeyPass security system would shut down the ignition for 10 minutes. For me, it's only occasional that the car will not start, but there is some electrical issue most every day that it's below 40 overnight. I have never had an issue after the car has started once during the day - this only happens on the first start of the day. Only once did the car go 2 days without starting.
1. Battery cables?
2. fuses?
3. etc.?
I have a 2003 Chevy Impala LS with 120,000 miles, equipped with sentinel lighting. Recently, the instrument cluster lights along with the lighted controls on the door panels and steering wheel stopped working leaving me unable to see the speedometer while driving at night. All controls seem work properly. I did some internet research and it appears there are several causes and/or fixes out there. I would like to have one or two more probable approaches than just throw money and time at a trial and error approach.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2002 impala that has occasionally not started. The problem started a couple months ago, once it started getting cold here in the midwest. Every few weeks when I turned the key, nothing would happen. It only happened occasionally, and after waiting a bit it would start normally. I did some reading and suspected it was the anti theft locking the car down. Today I tried jumping the car just to be sure it wasn't the battery, and all of the electronics were very dim. I heard a rapid clicking noise from the dash that continued even after I removed the key. The headlights were rapidly flashing, although also very dim. This continued for about a minute before stopping. I tried letting the battery charge from the jump for about 10 minutes, no change.
View 1 RepliesThere is an odor when it idles both in and out of the car but only after some driving - if I sit there a while the smell goes away. It is most noticeable when I get off the highway on my way to work and sit at a stop light. If i have to sit and wait for someone, the smell dissipates. I cannot find a leak. There is a performance issue but I'm not sure if it's related. At highway speeds it is having trouble accelerating - if I'm at 55 and want to go to 65, it'll go but it feels like there's resistance, almost a pulling, it causes the car to rock back and forth a bit - again it only happens at higher speeds. It has 140000 and is in good shape (except for things mentioned). The last repair was a water pump replacement about 4 months ago.
View 3 RepliesAbout 90% of the time, my gas gauge on my 2005 Impala works just fine. However, sometimes on hot afternoons it has problems & it doesn't read accurately. For example, I will have a nearly full tank & the gauge will show 1/4 to 1/2 full, depending on its "mood". If I drive the car somewhere & turn it off, everything is fine after I re-start it. I have to drive it somewhere though. If I start it, turn it off right away, and re-start it, it still reads inaccurately. The car runs fine & there no warning lights are lit on the dash.
View 1 RepliesI recently had an issue with my car overheating so I changed the thermostat. About 3 months later it happens again. I know I need a new tensioner arm but I decide to wait on it. I take it to a place and have the radiator flushed and the guy calls me back to the garage and says your belt fell off... i was like o man, so he showed me how it would slip off the tensioner and i said ok and put a new tensioner on. He called me back and said he found a new problem my crank shaft pulley was wobbling a little. I didn't have enough money to have him check it out further so he said he would just finish the flush and go from there. after he finished the flush he said there is still a problem with the heating on the car. He didn't know if the problem came from the pump, the t stat, or something like a sensor. and it would cost alot in research time for him to find the problem and fix it. so i am going to take it to another mechanic. I have replaced the pump about 2 years ago, I replaced the thermostat about 3 times before the flush over about 1 years time, i replaced the stepper motors on the gauges since they went bad. and now I am at a loss on what to do next. I just wish that click and clack would come fix my car.
View 5 RepliesOK, I just got done replacing the alternator on the wife's 05 escape 3.0 V6, after it started on fire. The 3 wire plug was melted onto the alternator, so I had to replace the pigtail. I'm 99.9% sure that I got the wires in the right place. But now, after putting it all back together, it idles sporadically, when I drive it seems almost like it's trying to start out in 2nd gear, and shifts oddly. And there are no dash lights or gauges. Headlights work fine. And everything worked normally before I took it apart.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 Impala with the 3.4 engine and 118,000 miles. About 2 years ago I had a code P0141 and since we didn't know for sure which oxygen sensor was out we replaced both of them. The P0141 code did not stop occurring after both sensors were changed. I read on an Impala forum that if you didn't replace the sensors with AC Delco the codes would continue so I didn't worry about it until my gas mileage starting going down recently. I ordered new AC Delco oxygen sensors and my husband replaced them Saturday, the old ones were sooted up pretty badly. Today a new code appeared, it is P0140, O2 sensor circuit no activity. What the problem might be now.
View 7 RepliesRecently I've been noticing a gas smell after parking my car after the drive home from work, but engine performance and mileage efficiency didn't seem affected, and I found no visible evidence of leaking on the ground (nor in the engine, but I likely don't know the right places to look).
Today, with the engine running, I looked around the engine to see if I could locate any gas leakage -- I located the fuel pressure regulator (I think; a golf-ball sized acorn on the right of the engine with a hose coming in the top and a pipe coming out the bottom and going down and to the left) and didn't see any leaking during my brief test. I'll check it again after my drive home tonight.
One new thing I did discover, though; while in park, when I slowly pressed on the accelerator, there would be a point where the engine started losing power and going into a rev/slowdown cycle: about a second or two of revving, then a half second of slowing down. This was while cold and in park; I've not experienced this in normal driving.
Last night at 2am and it was about 10 degrees out (I say the temp because it might matter?) I started my car, let it warm up to normal running standard and backed up. My car moved backwards but the wheel would not turn at all. I pull forward into my parking spot and noticed that the wheel is extremely hard to turn left or right... almost impossible.
I check under the hood and noticed that my car was leaking something onto the group but it was dark and I couldn't quite see what it was.
Checked this morning and I found that my power steering fluid was completely empty. I had a half bottle in my trunk and put it in my car, then turned my car on. All of a sudden I noticed that the fluid is leaking onto the ground. Not really leak, more like a slow/medium pour and the wheel still wouldn't not move.
i got a 1986 chevy g20 conversion van for camping trips and the dash lights and tail lights don't work but the turn signal works and the brake lights work and the headlights work i put in a new fuse and they worked for about 5 minutes then quit working there did apper to be a little watter in one of the tail light bulbs if that works.
View 2 Replies1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 180K 3.3L
I read other threads about the connections under the hood, both sides, which I unplugged and replugged. I also pulled the IOD fuse for a little bit. Then I removed the cluster and looked it over. Looked good to me.
Got code P1698 for manufacturers assembly control or something to that effect. Thought I checked all the usual culprits. The dash lights work fine, so does everything else. The dash gauges just don't work. This is something that has been an intermittent problem with the dash gauges going out periodically when hitting a bump. It leads me to believe a connection. But I checked all those.
2005 Chevy Trailblazer. Whenever the temperature goes below freezing, the 4x4 selector switch does not work. After the car warms up (10 min), I need to turn it off and then restart it in order for the switch to work. I tried changing the selctor switch, that did not work. Is there some sort of solenoid or actuator that is freezing up?
View 2 RepliesI have an '05 Chevy Colorado and the front turn signals don't work and no flashers. I've tried replacing bulbs and checked the fuses. Looking for info what would work.
View 3 RepliesMy 90 integra gauges dont work only the rpms work i changed the cluster and still only the rpms work. Why the gauges dont work?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2004 Chevy Impala with 100,000 miles. A couple of times in the last year the car just wouldn't start. Everything comes on lights, radio, etc. but it doesn't even try to turn over. I took it in twice and the mechanic of course couldn't find anything and it didn't happen again until recently. It has happened 6 times in the 3 weeks. It runs fine, has a new battery. Mechanic keeps telling me they can't diagnose it until it happens when they have it. I have had it towed to them twice when it has happened and of course when they try to start it it starts beautifully. Mechanic is guessing it may be the starter but doesn't want to assume. My dad said he heard a caller this past weekend on Car Talk with a similar problem and they were told it was the crankshaft position sensor and to not even mess with the starter.
View 4 Replies