Impala - Chevrolet :: 2005 - Gas Smell - Engine Loses Power For Seconds When Accelerating In Cold Weather
Apr 5, 2011
Recently I've been noticing a gas smell after parking my car after the drive home from work, but engine performance and mileage efficiency didn't seem affected, and I found no visible evidence of leaking on the ground (nor in the engine, but I likely don't know the right places to look).
Today, with the engine running, I looked around the engine to see if I could locate any gas leakage -- I located the fuel pressure regulator (I think; a golf-ball sized acorn on the right of the engine with a hose coming in the top and a pipe coming out the bottom and going down and to the left) and didn't see any leaking during my brief test. I'll check it again after my drive home tonight.
One new thing I did discover, though; while in park, when I slowly pressed on the accelerator, there would be a point where the engine started losing power and going into a rev/slowdown cycle: about a second or two of revving, then a half second of slowing down. This was while cold and in park; I've not experienced this in normal driving.
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There is an odor when it idles both in and out of the car but only after some driving - if I sit there a while the smell goes away. It is most noticeable when I get off the highway on my way to work and sit at a stop light. If i have to sit and wait for someone, the smell dissipates. I cannot find a leak. There is a performance issue but I'm not sure if it's related. At highway speeds it is having trouble accelerating - if I'm at 55 and want to go to 65, it'll go but it feels like there's resistance, almost a pulling, it causes the car to rock back and forth a bit - again it only happens at higher speeds. It has 140000 and is in good shape (except for things mentioned). The last repair was a water pump replacement about 4 months ago.
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2007 Chevrolet Impala 1LT3.5L Flex Fuel EngineAuto Transmission with shift lever on the steering column29,980 miles
Bought new Nov 2006 so is now four and a half years oldThe drive train is still under warranty (6 years or 60,000 miles). All recommended service per the manufacturers manual has been done. Book calls for first transmission service at 50,000 miles
NOTE: Previously at 19,600 miles the transmission cooler line fittings were replaced due to a small leak. Currently no evidence of a leak; no fluid on garage floor and the transmission fluid level on the stick shows right on the mark. Fluid still clean pale red and has no odor.
Majority of my driving is short hops with multiple stops, so the car gets heavy use shifted into and out of park gear. I do use the "parking brake" applying it after shifted into park and released before shifting out of park. I always have my foot on the brake pedal when shifting out of park.
PROBLEM: Having trouble shifting out of park on a cold engine or if the car has been sitting for an hour or more since turned off and put into park gear. Oddly enough, if I'm running a series of errands where the car has been in park for only 5 to 30 minutes, there is no problem shifting out of park gear. But if the car sits long enough for the engine to cool then it becomes hard to shift. The longer the time it sits in park the harder it is to shift out of park when the car is started.
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Turns out the crank shaft position sensor only fixed the cars ability to start and stop and did not cure the acceleration issue. What happens? The symptoms occur during the following conditions.
1. Hard acceleration
2. Going up hills
3. With heavy loads
Basically the car loses power and sounds like it is getting muffled. Then it just picks up rapidly and takes off.I have tested out the throttle position sensor and it checks out fine. The car never completely stops.If I feather the throttle, it picks up and keeps moving forward.
Haven't tried the EGR valve, fuel filter or fuel pump.
Strange thing though.The car was sitting for about two months until I replaced the crank shaft position sensor. Then it started up fine, and ran without problems.The tank went low, and I filled it with gas.AFter that, the car started having problems. The only thing I can think of is two things.
1. When I filled it up is raised sediment and somehow clogged something.
2. The excessive pressure in the tank is causing issues.
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I own a 2001 chevy impala 3.8 and I recently had a good friend of mine whose going to school as a mechanic install a manifold gasket upper and lower but now I am hearing this loud tick tick tick sound for about 2-3 min every time i start my car in the morning and then the noise goes away and its normal it never made this noise before is it harmful and break my engine or is it okay to just leave it....
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Last night at 2am and it was about 10 degrees out (I say the temp because it might matter?) I started my car, let it warm up to normal running standard and backed up. My car moved backwards but the wheel would not turn at all. I pull forward into my parking spot and noticed that the wheel is extremely hard to turn left or right... almost impossible.
I check under the hood and noticed that my car was leaking something onto the group but it was dark and I couldn't quite see what it was.
Checked this morning and I found that my power steering fluid was completely empty. I had a half bottle in my trunk and put it in my car, then turned my car on. All of a sudden I noticed that the fluid is leaking onto the ground. Not really leak, more like a slow/medium pour and the wheel still wouldn't not move.
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I have a 2011 Chevy Impala. When accelerating from a stop it will frequently stutter then jerk forward. The first time this happened I thought someone had rear-ended me.
I've been to the dealer several times about this however they say they cannot isolate the cause. More importantly I can't seem to get the vehicle to repeat this problem when I've brought it to the dealership.
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I purchased a 2011 Chevrolet Impala last year with 14,000. When the car reach 26,000 I begin to smell a very strong sulfur smell coming from the exhaust. I took the car to the local Chevrolet dealer and was told that the particles in the catalytic converter begin to break up at about 26,000 mile and the result is a sulfur smell.
I didn't believe that all Impalas had this problem. So I took it to the Chevrolet dealer in the next town where I personally know and trust the maintenance chief. He put his two best men on the car and could not find anything wrong. I was told to try another gas station which I did but it did not work. I now have 31,000 miles on the car and the smell is very strong coming into the passenger compartment when stopped.
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For the past several months, every now and then while driving the engine power will reduce and the Driver Information Center will display two messages: "Service Stabilitrak" and "Engine Power Reduced", and the ESC and Check Engine dashboard lights will come on. Shifting becomes rough especially between 1st and 2nd gears. After turning off the car for 10 minutes or so, the engine power will be restored and the ESC light goes out but the Check Engine Light remains lit. After a day or so the Check Engine light goes out. Otherwise the car runs normally. This happens at least once on every long trip where I am out on the highway - sometimes multiple times on a single road trip. It does not happen in short trips around home.
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I have a 94 Chevy Suburban C1500 with a 5.7L, 350 Engine. It has 235,000 miles on it. I purchased it about 4 years ago with 191,000 miles in very good condition and obviously well maintained. I have continued to maintain it well.
For the past few months it has begun to start a little slower that before and when accelerating cold or warm there is a spot where it looses power. It doesn't sputter or die it just looses power. I can press the accelerator farther and it will come back to life and do fine. After a 20 -30 minute drive if I park for a while, 20 - 30 minutes, when I start it up it dies. The only way to keep it running is to give it the gas and smooth it out at about 1500 rpm for 10 - 15 seconds. Then I can drive it with no problem most of the time though it still has the dead spot on acceleration.
There is a good spray pattern from the throttle body injectors. Plugs and wires are relatively new and plugs look good (AC Delco Rapidfire Platinum). When I turn on the ignition without going to start, the fuel pump builds pressure for 4 - 6 seconds. I haven't checked the fuel pressure yet and am considering investing in the rig to do so. I recently replaced the fuel filter but that didn't work.
The check engine light has not come on but many of the lights in the cluster are burned out and I haven't felt like going to the trouble to fix that so it is possible that the check engine bulb is bad.
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My 2003 Subaru outback has a gas smell when i first start it on very cold mornings. I live in New England. It goes away after the engine is warm. Also, it never happens in warm weather.
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Having problem with an exhaust or fuel smell in the cab? i have had the exhaust checked & the seal on the back door, all have been fine. it has only happened in the really, really cold weather.
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When the weather gets really cold (below 30) I intermittently smell a gas/exhaust smell in the cabin but also on the exterior. I have on two occasions had my mechanic check this and each time he has replaced an "old and cracked" hose.
He has to use the smoke tracer to find where it is leaking and replacing hose. On both occasions he urged me to make the repair immediately as it could be extremely dangerous. (Makes sense if I am smelling gas.)
I am wondering if this could be an exhaust/heating system problem. The car is 11 years old with 120K miles and I want to keep it running a few more years. I am due for front brakes and new tires soon...
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2014 se , 7k miles. Get a pretty noticeable sound. its hard to explain its kinda like a grumble for about two seconds. on very cold weather starts.
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Pretty much like clockwork. Every 9 seconds the power dies for about 1 second and then comes back on. Sometimes the Theft light comes on.
If I am at idle, the car dies. No check engine light. The car has had all new ignition parts in the last year except battery and alternator.
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I got this car from someone and I just noticed none of the gauges on the dashboard work! Everything else works fine and the mileage still shows, engine notifications still show, etc.It's a 2005 Chevy Impala. What might be wrong?
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2004 V8 - ~62k did the 60k service about 2 months ago. No other problems other than tpms not liking 50 degree swings in temperature. Haven't really had time to examine it, but wife left work this morning at -18F said she was getting a weird smell, no lights, a little smoke when she was stopped. I thought nothing of it.
Went to the garage to leave for work and it was like a dingy night club, fog/smoke everywhere and a strong smell of burning oil. Its supposed to warm up to 20 or so tomorrow, so I'm hoping whatever started leaking seals up.
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1996 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, 183000 miles. Car loses all power, randomly. Then starts up in about 3 seconds.
The following repairs have been done: crank sensor, cam sensor, idle control valve, ignition switch, all ground wires checked. There are no computer codes generated. This has been going on for over a year. Has been checked by dealer and three other mechanics.
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About 90% of the time, my gas gauge on my 2005 Impala works just fine. However, sometimes on hot afternoons it has problems & it doesn't read accurately. For example, I will have a nearly full tank & the gauge will show 1/4 to 1/2 full, depending on its "mood". If I drive the car somewhere & turn it off, everything is fine after I re-start it. I have to drive it somewhere though. If I start it, turn it off right away, and re-start it, it still reads inaccurately. The car runs fine & there no warning lights are lit on the dash.
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Whenever the temperature is below 20 degrees F and am idling at a stop light, if I have the heater fan running I get a horrible exhaust smell inside my car. I have discovered that I can lessen the bad smell by turning off the fans when the car is idling and then turning it back on when I start to drive.
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I recently had an issue with my car overheating so I changed the thermostat. About 3 months later it happens again. I know I need a new tensioner arm but I decide to wait on it. I take it to a place and have the radiator flushed and the guy calls me back to the garage and says your belt fell off... i was like o man, so he showed me how it would slip off the tensioner and i said ok and put a new tensioner on. He called me back and said he found a new problem my crank shaft pulley was wobbling a little. I didn't have enough money to have him check it out further so he said he would just finish the flush and go from there. after he finished the flush he said there is still a problem with the heating on the car. He didn't know if the problem came from the pump, the t stat, or something like a sensor. and it would cost alot in research time for him to find the problem and fix it. so i am going to take it to another mechanic. I have replaced the pump about 2 years ago, I replaced the thermostat about 3 times before the flush over about 1 years time, i replaced the stepper motors on the gauges since they went bad. and now I am at a loss on what to do next. I just wish that click and clack would come fix my car.
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