Without any particular known triggers, the car either will not even turn over, or sometimes the electrical will come on, but the car won't start. Wiggling the keys and steering wheel don't necessarily work, and I can't shift it at all when it's not on. Took it to the garage and left it there for days -- never did it for them. Starter? What to do?
View 3 RepliesA year ago, I had a problem starting my car (a 2004 Chevrolet Impala, about 120,000 miles). When I put the key in the ignition, the engine wouldn't turn. I knew there wasn't a problem with the battery because my lights, radio, etc. were still operating fine. Instead, I got a bright flashing "SECURITY" message on the front panel of the car. After a few minutes pacing around the parking lot, I returned to my car and it started without a problem. I checked online, and several car forums and articles claimed that this was a common problem in 2004 Chevrolet Impalas: some faulty wiring in the security system would stop the car from turning on because it thought you were trying to hot-wire the vehicle.
After the first incident, I didn't encounter this problem again until recently. Within the last 2 weeks, this problem has become more frequent, occurring maybe 2-3 times per week. The car won't start and I'll get a flashing "SECURITY" message. If I wait a while (between 5 to 30 minutes), the car will eventually start. I finally decided to take my car into a Chevrolet dealership to get the problem fixed. I described the problem to the mechanic; she guessed that the cause was associated with the ignition cylinder....
I have a 2007 Chevy Impala with the 3.9L. It has just over 110,000 miles on it. I've owned the car for about 5.5 years. Back in 2012, I took the car to a local transmission shop. Here's the reason: Let's say the car has sat overnight. I start it up (regardless of the season) and go to the stop sign at the end of my street. When I go to accelerate, there will be a very short lapse and the car will seem to jerk into gear then go. This is a very intermittent problem and does not happen every day. The car will do this for a bit when accelerating from a dead stop and then the problem goes away.
The trans shop said the transmission needed to be rebuilt. Guy told me they've seen problems with the Impala transmissions and, if I remember correctly, that the parts used inside aren't the best. Looking for a second opinion, I took the car to a Chevy dealer. The dealer was not able to experience the jerking. I had the trans service done (80,000 miles at the time). The problem persists to this day and has not, noticeably gotten worse. I decided to take the car to another dealer last week. Same thing: the dealer could not create the jerking issue. Again, this issue is very intermittent.
I am not sure what to think or do at this point. I called a couple shops around town and have gotten the following advice/information:
1) Bring it in and we can see if we can recreate it, but can't guarantee it.
2) The transmission needs to be rebuilt (this without even looking at the car).
3) Wait for the problem to get worse so that it CAN be diagnosed properly.
One guy said he didn't trust the dealer mechanics, that they "just drive around the block once." I am not sure what to do?
My impala over heated on me and it doesn't turn on..... What is wrong with it?
View 5 RepliesWhen turning a corner at low speed (left or right) while riding the brake, if the suspension bounces (e.g., crossing uneven manhole cover) the left front brake pulses for .5-2 seconds. The pulse is felt in the brake pedal. A grunt noise comes from the suspension. Cannot reproduce over parking lot speed bumps.
View 3 RepliesLast night at 2am and it was about 10 degrees out (I say the temp because it might matter?) I started my car, let it warm up to normal running standard and backed up. My car moved backwards but the wheel would not turn at all. I pull forward into my parking spot and noticed that the wheel is extremely hard to turn left or right... almost impossible.
I check under the hood and noticed that my car was leaking something onto the group but it was dark and I couldn't quite see what it was.
Checked this morning and I found that my power steering fluid was completely empty. I had a half bottle in my trunk and put it in my car, then turned my car on. All of a sudden I noticed that the fluid is leaking onto the ground. Not really leak, more like a slow/medium pour and the wheel still wouldn't not move.
I have a 2004 Chevy Impala with 100,000 miles. A couple of times in the last year the car just wouldn't start. Everything comes on lights, radio, etc. but it doesn't even try to turn over. I took it in twice and the mechanic of course couldn't find anything and it didn't happen again until recently. It has happened 6 times in the 3 weeks. It runs fine, has a new battery. Mechanic keeps telling me they can't diagnose it until it happens when they have it. I have had it towed to them twice when it has happened and of course when they try to start it it starts beautifully. Mechanic is guessing it may be the starter but doesn't want to assume. My dad said he heard a caller this past weekend on Car Talk with a similar problem and they were told it was the crankshaft position sensor and to not even mess with the starter.
View 4 RepliesI drive a 2004 Impala with just over 100k miles and sometimes it just will not start. All the bells and whistles work fine but it just doesn't start. The security light flashes 3x and then shows a picture of the battery. I replaced the battery and it seemed fine for a few months, but then did it a few more times. I've heard of people spending up to 3k dollars replacing various things, making no difference at all. On most websites everyone seems to thinks it's the GM Passlock system...
View 2 RepliesSo this car has been having overheating problems since I first purchased it. I've operated it, but I've had to keep the heat going full blast to keep the coolant tank from overheating.
Last night I was driving on the interstate, and it began to overheat. It was running hot for maybe 3 minutes before I was able to pull over. I let it sit and cool for probably about 20-25 minutes, pulling over on a dark portion of the interstate, before I started it with no problem and moved it to a safer location (it ran hot again, but this was maybe for 30 seconds before I pulled over and shut it off.)
I let it sit for a good hour so that it could cool all the way down from 260 to 140. I then attempt to start it. It turns, but does not start. At this point, I call a tow truck to come for it. About 30 to 40 minutes after this, I start the car again. It starts with no problem. I put it in reverse, and roll it back to see if there are any leaks. There's leaking from the coolant tank...quite a large puddle. I refill it with distilled water and it leaks some more but sits mostly. I then start it again, and roll it forward. The tow truck arrives maybe 30 minutes later, and I attempt to start it to line it up behind, but it turns and does not start. We have to put it in Neutral and turn it to get it in line for the tow truck.
We get to my destination, probably about a 40 minute drive, and he unloads it. I attempt to start it...again, it turns but does not start. This morning, about 8 hours after that, I try to start it...it does not even turn.
The oil is just fine, the battery is not dead (lights/radio/horn/etc. works), but the battery does seem weak since the dashboard lights are dimmed no matter how much I turn them up. Even though the coolant tank has been somewhat depleted, it was never close to being empty or bone dry. There weren't any "knocking" noises, there was no smoking or anything from either the hood or the exhaust.
I have an Impala 2004 with 136,000 miles that has a damaged connecting rod. I have received a quote to replace the engine with a remanufactured one. The body of the car is still good. I need to decide if it is worth repairing or not.
View 12 RepliesI have an impala with a missing ignition lock cylinder. How to bypass the security with this component missing or know where to find the wiring schematic for this model. Every schematic I've found on the web aren't complete circuits.
View 5 RepliesGot a 2004 Chevy Impala with 99K miles. Speedometer seems to be acting sporadically often. Sometimes, it will shift 10 or 20 mph "faster" than actual speed then, sometimes, it goes to the "maximum" speed on the dial and just stays there with the car on or off. Then a few days later, starts working normal again.
View 5 Replies2004 Chevrolet Tahoe that has the dual climate control features. Some days the A/C blows cold on one side and hot on the other with it set on the coldest setting. Another day it blows cold on both. Then you guessed it a few days later it goes back to blowing hot on one side and cold on the other.
View 2 RepliesI have a 04 V8 Automatic. In the last few days, only once in a while, with no repeating pattern, it has had trouble starting. The starter cycles but the engine do not turn over.
Battery: I have reviewed the battery charge by checking the voltage on the dash meter before attempting to start and it is consistently over 12V and at 14V when it is running. Usually after multiple attempts it starts or in some cases if I wait and come back it starts. I have never had to jump it. Based in this I ruled out the battery since - if it was drained or not holding its charge I should not have been able to start it - correct?
Items draining battery: I read many posts indicating problems with items such as the compass draining the battery after the vehicle is shut off. I do not think this is the issue either since the battery is holding its charge.
Fuel Pump: I am thinking it is the fuel pump not properly priming when I open the door. I tried to test this by opening the door, listening for the pump priming then attempting to start it. It started whether or not I heard the pump prime. Should the pump prime every time after the engine is shut off? Is this a valid test or does the pump only prime after driving? Is there a better way to validate if it is the pump? Would this show up in the error codes? (I do not have a way to check the codes other than taking it to the dealer)
vehicle overheated stopped made a quick fix on the radiator and refilled with antifreeze started everything seemed ok drove car home still everything was fine next day will not start. turn key to on position lights on dash and headlights good, turn the key to start position all goes dead. fuses are the good battery is good connections to starter are good engine not seized up. I get no code on my odbII. I have replaced radiator and hoses, checked all fuses in all four fuse box and side compartments.
View 18 RepliesSometimes I turn the key and nothing happens except the lights come on but nothing happens. Then if I press the brakes, move the gear shift from park to neutral and back it might start. Sometimes I have to repeat the process a few times and twice I was stranded! If it starts then something unusual happens if I am going in reverse and turning the steering wheel sharply to the right the is a loud grinding, whining sound. It's not like the sound of a whining power steering noise.
View 4 RepliesOn my newly purchased 2003 chevy impala i believe my starter is going out. Outside of turning the key and nothing happens how does a mechanic test or verify its the starter?
View 10 RepliesRecently the check engine light came on and coded out to the mass air flow sensor. I changed the sensor and cleared the fault code, but after doing so the car wouldn't start. After many failed attempts to start the motor, I disconnected the positive lead at the battery and reconnected it a few minutes later. The car started and ran smooth, however the check engine came back on and coded out to the mass air flow sensor again...
I let the car continue to idle and disconnected the lead at the sensor how the motor would react; it continued to run smooth....I then reinstalled the old air flow sensor and engine continued to run great...So with all this said, car runs great when check engine is on and code is not rest, however, car will not start upon clearing the code and resetting the light......is it safe to assume the computer is going bad and needs to be changed?
My 2005 Impala is overheating , sometimes, and only for a minute. (When it goes into the red, I pull over and turn car off for a few minutes.) The needle fluctuates, though. I read old posts, but my mechanic tried them. Here's what's gone on so far:
Replaced thermostat, flushed / refilled antifreeze , car worked fine for a day, then it started again.
He then took an air pocket out. He took it for a drive, it was fine. I drove it for a day, it was fine. The next day it started up again (needle quickly fluctuating, sometimes needle slowly fluctuating).
He replaced the upper radiator hose. He then drove the car (local and on highway) for 2 1/2 hours, it was fine. I picked it up and it was perfect for the rest of the day/evening. This morning, after driving about 8 miles, it started again. I'm dropping it off tonight. He said it is hard to know exactly what it is without trying things. He said next he would try water pump or radiator.
I have a 2009 Chevy Impala. It has 28,000 miles and since November my gas mileage averages between 20-24. I took the car to the dealership and they say nothing is wrong. This car was titled in Hawaii. I live in Wisconsin. Could the colder weather have something to do with the mileage or what else could it be?
View 17 RepliesWhen I turn on my left blinker it blinks real fast and the front blinker doesn't work. I have changed the bulb and it still doesn't work what is wrong?
View 19 Replies