Impala - Chevrolet :: 2001 - White Smoke And Pop Noise From Under The Hood On Driver Side
Jun 12, 2014
I am having a problem with rough starts/ normal starts. This issue is intermittent. Once in a while when turning on the car I'll get white smoke and a pop noise from under the hood on the driver side. It smells electrical in nature. Other times like 80% of the time it starts normal. Also I have an issue with some of the cluster panel being lit while other are dimmed slightly. What is the cause of this problem? Where should I start to look to fix these issues? 2001 Impala LS 3.8L .........
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My wife just sent me a text saying she noticed her car (2005 Elantra GT, auto, 140k) making a chugging sound and then saw white smoke coming from under the hood on her way to class.
I'm at work, so I'm trying to pinpoint the problem from my office, but I'm guessing the white smoke is the result of a coolant leak? Bad seal somewhere? What would cause the chugging that's related to a coolant leak? Or maybe it's not coolant-related at all.
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So I have a 2008 Chevy Impala LS that hasn't given me any real problems. I had some battery troubles recently that were the result of me leaving the parking/security lights on for 10 consecutive hours, but overnight-charged the battery and was good-to-go after that. But it seems like RIGHT after that was when the whining noise started.
It seems to be related to my power-steering system. I know this since the whining seems to pick up with acceleration and turning. However, I checked my power steering fluid and it did not appear to be depleted at all. I did notice, however, that it seems to be a light greenish color...which from doing a google search, I've gotten the impression that it's probably not supposed to be that color.
What exactly is going on here?
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Light film of white smoke from the right side of the hood wheel underneath the passenger wheel an slightly from the front no antifreeze in vehicle at the moment car parked an not driven since the altercation.
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My mom was driving to pick me up and she said that all of a sudden about half way here that the car started making a knocking sound and white smoke started coming from hood, the car was also trying to shut itself down while she was trying to pull over. It is a 2000 ford taurus with like 130k. I am so scared that it is the head gasket because my mom, myself and my daughter, and my 16 year old sister all share that car to get around. Is there anything else it could be besides that or is that probably what it is?
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I have a 2003 Impala. Over the past couple of months I have had an occurance every so often, very random with my front driver side brake. In both rain and dry conditions, braking hard and just slowing to break I will hear what sounds like grinding when I brake, like you do when the pads are gone. Well, I have had the car in and the pads and rotor are fine, the place I took it to even test drove it and tried but couldn't get the sound. I posted here a while back on this issue and the view was that it might be the ABS, but when this occurs the ABS light doesn't come on and the sound is just coming from the driver side front. What my next move should be?
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So I just got my 04.5 GLI chipped with GIAC 93 octane program two days ago. Obviously I've been driving it reasonably hard because I'm pumped on the chip. I noticed today as I sat at a light a very small bit of white smoke billowed out from the driver's side of the engine (looked like it was pretty far to the side). It stopped for a second and then a little bit more came out. I pulled over as soon as the light turned green and looked around with a flashlight to see if I could spot any more smoke, but couldn't.
The car has 120,000 KMs, catless dp, and an aftermarket exhaust. It was chipped in 2011, but went into limp mode, the owner then traded it in and I got it in limp mode. (long story short they reflashed and replaced several parts and got it back to 10psi, and I then rechipped 2 days ago). So the car hasn't seen too much chipped use I'm assuming. The boost holds strong at about 17lbs (unless it's low rpms in 5th or 6th, and it kinda bounces around until higher rpms and then holds steady).
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I have a 2008 Chevy Impala that I've owned for going on six months. It's treated me very well. I'm just now getting ready to give it a nice wash/interior cleaning this evening, but I noticed while cleaning under the hood just now that I cannot get the hood to stay up on it's own. I'm not sure what the issue is. I keep nudging it gently, but that's not working. As recently as yesterday I had the hood up when I was checking the oil...it stayed just fine.
Of course, the pre-2014 Impala generation has hoods without the manual supports. So what might the problem be here? I figure this car is a little new to be having a problem like this.
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My 2000 Chevrolet Impala doesn't want to start unless I tap on the throttle under the hood--battery seems okay, as the heater, radio, lights work, but starter won't even click unless I do this. Know why?
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The wife's '07 Chevy Impala's wheel is making a funny noise - sort of a "whoop whoop whoop" out of the front passenger side wheel as the car gets up to speed. there is vibration in the steering wheel also. When coming off a local highway down a hill, she had to hit the brakes semi-hard and there was a great vibration from the brakes.
I have already rotated the tires in case it was a tire/wheel issue, and took to mechanic to replace the bearing - and it seems to have gotten worse. The mechanic said the back bearing looked good but he still wanted to replace... which wont happen. recently had a control arm replaced by same mechanic in front but don't remember which side.
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I've owned a 2008 Chevy Impala for about 7 months. It's at about 115,000 miles. It runs great...haven't had any problems out of it. So far. But there are a few things that concern me.
When I start the car, I hear this squeaking noise under the hood. I do not always hear this---it seems as if it may be tied with cold weather, like it's something that only occurs in the morning. But regardless, it seems abnormal. It subsides after a few minutes. The other thing I am noticing is that normally within the first 10 or 15 minutes of operation, if the car is at a stop light I'll hear some strange humming accompanied by vibrations. Sometimes the lights will flash faintly when this happens.
When I first purchased the car, I had a mechanic check it out. The engine, transmission, radiator, etc. were in excellent condition. I'm hoping that this is not anything serious, but I figure these are still sounds that I should not be hearing with a car in good condition.
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I've got this weird problem , it started a month ago. Sometimes I would drive for half a hour, park the car, stop then engine and some white smoke comes out of the hood after a few seconds. But sometimes I can drive the same amount of time, park, stop the engine but no white smoke.
The only time I did notice it happening is when my temperature gauge isn't working properly , sometimes it will give the right reading (which is right on the middle) and while driving it will drop to 0. Also sometimes there is a smell of rubber burning I think (Doing my best here). But I've checked Google for people with my problem but all I read is either people with tail pipes issues or smoke directly in the drivers cabin. My white smoke is only when I kill the engine. There is no smoke coming out of the tail pipe nor in my cabin. Only a rubber burn kind of smell.
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Yesterday I made a 3 hour round trip with my car, and on the last leg coming back into town, I noticed my check engine light came on, and I saw white smoke coming from underneath the hood of my car, along with a burning smell. Luckily I was able to make it home just fine. I've googled this issue, some people have suggested coolant leak.
Also, I checked the oil levels today and they appeared to be slightly below the lowest level tick, which could be why it was having issues yesterday. Last time I got an oil change was November of 2015. I'm surprised it's this low considering I normally don't commute farther than a couple miles each day.
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I drive a 2004 Hyundai sonata. Last time i had an oil change they told me there is a small oil leak. I have yet to fix the leak due to lack of funds. I drove to work today and a co worker noticed after i got out of the vehicle that there was white smoke coming from the hood. I have checked my oil and my coolant and both seem to be fine. I have not checked the resivour yet( should i? ) My question is do you think the oil leak is what is causing the white smoke along with a slight burning smell? Or possibly another issue? I am having it check this weekend however until then i wondered what i could do to avoid overheating if you think that may be the cause of the smoke as well?
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I have a 2006 v6 ford mustang and just developed this problem yesterday.
When I drive the car, the temp guage stay right in the middle, but when I park I get white smoke come from under the hood. I popped the hood and saw coolant leaking from where the top radiator hose meets the engine block. This was producing the smoke. When I checked the hoses, the top hose was hot and hard, the bottom hose was cool and soft.
Extra info:1. I did not touch the radiator to see if there were cool or warm spots2. The overflow bottle looked empty or close to it, but the engine was still hot from driving to work
Thinking this could be one of the following:
1. bad thermostat
2. clogged radiator
3. Air bubble somewhere blocking the coolant flow
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2004 Mazda6 V6 auto with 220,000 miles on it. Yesterday, in rush hour traffic on the highway, saw a puff of white smoke from under the hood. Tried to get over to the right- by the time I got over, I'd passed the last exist before the Baltimore Harbor Tunnel.so had to keep driving till I could find a safe spot to pull over.
Temperature gauge spiked, so I turned on the heat, on full- and got cold air coming out. Temp gauge then dropped to cold, and all dashboard warning lights lit up. Small antifreeze puddle under car.....had it towed home. Truck driver was able to get it started long enough to roll it off the truck into parking area.
How badly I damaged engine by continuing to drive the 2 miles through tunnel?
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I have a 2005 gen 2 Prius, 106k miles. Recently in Florida, we had a heavy rainstorm, and I happened to drive it through a flash flooded road. Water was deep enough to reach my headlights. I was out within 10 seconds, then had my car towed. There was a clicking sound and white smoke (steam?) coming from under the hood. The car would start, and I could drive it if I wanted to. After talking to a mechanic, he said to let it sit for 30 minutes with the engine on. Like magic, it started to work like normal, check engine light went away.
Drove fine for 2 days, then the check engine light came back on. Had the codes read at autozone: P0103, and P0031. One day later, my car stalled out while I was driving, and the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree. Red triangle, yellow exclamation, brake, abs, "problem" on mfd, etc. This site has saved me before, so I came on and thought it could be the MAF sensor. I cleaned it with MAF cleaner, but no luck. I order a new sensor, still no luck. My car stalls out seconds after starting it up. I cleaned my throttle body, still nothing.
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I have a 2002 VW MK4 1.8t. It has 172,000 miles on it. Since i bought the car i have had to add coolant from time to time due to leaks from various plastic coolant parts so I replaced the crappy plastic connectors and flanges as they failed but it has never overheated till a couple days ago. It rose up to about 210'F but I didn't let it get to 260'F (aka the red zone).
While the temperature was up, the coolant was spraying everywhere causing white smoke under the hood. I stopped and looked under the hood and came up with the conclusion it was the coolant flange that holds the temp sensor since it was leaking coolant from the flange like a faucet hince the reason it caused it to overheat due to lost of pressure and no coolant in the system. So I replaced the part and gaskets then checked for other obvious leaks.
No leaks are shown nowhere else in the vehicle. So I added coolant to the car and let the cooling system do its magic as i left the heater on high. Let car idle with cap off and heater on for about 45 minutes. No signs of overheating. So I take the car for a spin and that's when the car starts heating up. I look under the hood and feel hoses and notice all are pressurized but top hose that leads to coolant flange is hot and the bottom hose connected to thermostat is cold.
I checked the return hose that leads up to the coolant reservoir to see if it's cycling and it appears it was. At low rpms the return hose had a steady flow and at high rpms it was flowing much rapidly. Which made me think it wasn't the water pump also this car with that many miles wouldn't have lasted with the plastic impellar this long if it wasn't already swapped out by previous owners. My question is what would cause it to still overheat? I forgot to note the fans did not turn on when the temperature was rising unless i turned the a/c on. But i still did a drive test with a/c on and it still overheated. I also did multiple burp cycles. I have invested alot of money in custom work and suck to leave it parked on the drive way.
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Six months ago we purchased a '91 Chevy Pickup and 3 months ago the truck started to "sneeze". Sometimes while accelerating the truck makes a "toot" noise from in front of the driver under the hood, and with the noise I have a momentary loss of RPMs. This can happen a number of times in a row, making pulling out on to busy streets difficult and dangerous. Most of the time, I take my foot completely off the gas and then re-apply it, and the issue goes away. It happens both with a cold engine and a warm/hot engine. This problem started when it was cold out (around 10 degrees Fahrenheit) and the mechanic I talked to about it thought it was the E10 87 gas I was putting in.
I switched to a 97 octane/no-ethenol fuel and the problem went away, until about a week ago when our temperatures finally broke 50 consistently. The problem is back and with it is a minor fluctuation of RPM when idling in neutral. The truck also created a new symptom, I was driving at about 50mph and the truck acted like it slipped on ice... I had evened out my speed and the truck seemed to start coasting then got back to driving at speed, it jerked the whole truck, like driving over a patch of ice. I don't know if it has anything to do with the original problem but all symptoms may be the same thing....
The truck is a 91 Chevy 1500K, 5.7L V8 and has 74,000 miles (mostly highway towing). It had been sitting 2 years, not really being used, before we bought it. We had the fuel injection system cleaned when they did the oil change, right after we purchased the vehicle.
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I have a 2007 Honda Odyssey touring model. Recently I had it serviced at the Honda dealership. In addition to my requested front end alignment and oil and filter change, they talked me into a radiator flush, fuel inj. service, air filter replacements and battery service. I drove the car home after wards even filling up with gas before going home. This drive was about 55 miles. I never noticed any problems. The next day, I left for Montghomery AL towing a trailer with a motorcycle trike on it. We stopped for lunch and continued. The car suddenly started making a grinding noise from engine compartment and suddenly white smoke started coming out from the hood. I immediately pulled over and we got out of the car for fear of fire. This was the first time I had any indication of a problem.
After a short time, I opened the hood to see what was wrong and noticed that the radiator cap was sitting upside down next to opening. I had the vehicle towed to Chattanooga where I was told there was serious damage to the engine. I had them repair it (they were an AAA approved towing and repair shop). I also took pictures of the engine compartment. I went back to the dealership and asked to be reembursed for my expenses and the cost of repairs and the owner refused. He said he didn't believe they left the cap off and since he started out in the service department he didn't believe the car could even go that far without overheating. My question is: Is it possible for a 2007 Honda Odyssey to travel approximately 220 miles over two days before overheating and wrecking the engine if the radiator cap was left off and/or if no fluid was even added and the radiator cap was left off?
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I have a 97 Ford Ranger / 2.3L / 4 cylinder (L4) / 5 speed manual / XL Supercab / 140k miles. I had been having some Check Engine issues and ran rough in town stop light to stop light. But was fine on the highway.
On several visits to the parts store, their OBD tester showed:
PO303 (Cyl 3 misfire detected)
PO141 Bank 1 Sensor 2 O2 Sensor (heater circuit malfunction)
PO171 Bank 1 Combustion Too Lean (the most recent new code to show up)
And the following would show up sometimes, but other times not:
PO 402 EGR Flow - Excessive Detected
P1409 EVR (I cant remember the exact error message for this)
Regards the PO141 code, O'Reilly's sold me a Bosch O2 Sensor (Bosch 15719) and the sales rep told me it was the sensor closer to the engine. And with the attached cable length on the sensor showed was indeed the sensor closest to the engine. But I've been advised the Sensor 2 is for the 'downstream' sensor, furthest away from the engine. And the other sensor, that I replaced is the upstream sensor. And the error continued.
Then back issues showed up and I had back surgery this past year and thus drove the vehicle sparingly. Never resolving the check engine issues. (My bad). Ran on the highway ran fairly well. But recently noticed longer acceleration times and unable to top 65 in 5th gear. I bought spark plugs and plug wires and had plans to change next week.
Yesterday as driving down the Interstate, was 90 miles into my trip, I noticed loss of power even in fourth gear. (note it was the hottest day of the year at 100F). It seemed I used more gas than usual for that distance. I stopped for gas on the Interstate and power seemed to improve. Then about 130 miles into my trip I hit some heavy stop and go traffic, and wasn't able to keep an idle and the engine died numerous times if/when I didn't give it gas at a dead stop. The heavy stop and go heavy traffic and the issues persisted for a half hour for more than five miles. Then when traffic opened up the truck seemed to have a bit more power in 4th gear again. And up to that time all my dash gauges were showing fine. Then a couple miles or so down the interstate, driving 65mph in the inside lane, the check engine light started flashing quickly. And at the same time a sudden loss of power, rough sounding engine with heavy white smoke coming under the hood. And looked back in rear view mirror, with nothing but heavy white smoke. Managed to cross three lanes in heavy traffic and was able the vehicle to the outside emergency lane, finally coming to a stop.
Looked under the hood and saw oil dripping everywhere but with all the oil everywhere I could not find a prime source. Looked like the oil came from the top end of the engine and dripped down. Measured the oil at the dipstick and it seemed like I was at least a quart plus down (I checked the oil before I left on the trip). And it didn't look like any water was in the oil. And my radiator overflow tank was at the proper level. So I figured I lost all that oil during that period of "white smoke".
So had my vehicle towed home. Today in daylight, I did some more inspection and removed the air intake system (hoses and canister) from the air filter to the throttle body. There was significant oil up to the canister piece that fits on the air filter canister (but no oil in the actual air filter), and significant oil inside all the hoses up to inside the throttle body (up to the butterfly which I could see),
When I disconnected these hoses I noticed the blow-by hose connected to the intake hose system was not connected to anything. And a tube opening on the valve cover was open without the a blow-by hose attached and, with no clamp. So I assume all that oil and came out of that blow-by tube on the valve cover, (white smoke created by hot oil hitting the engine).
So appears to me that its not a blown head gasket or worse, which I first feared.
I have the vehicle parked at home.
QUESTIONS: So what are the suggested steps to troubleshoot and repair? Besides reattaching everything and putting a clamp on the blow by hose? And installing new spark plugs and plug wires. I previously replaced plug wires around 60k, even though the manual recommended 100k mile replacement. (And a couple yeas back I had the dealer replace the PCV, which was recommended in the manual and included in the warranty. The timing of the initial check engine lights appeared shortly thereafter).
Is there suppose to be a large amount of oil in the air intake system after an incident like this and should I try to clean/flush out the hoses and the inline canister?
When I disconnected the inline canister from the hoses in the air intake system, unfortunately I failed to document the direction which the canister goes. It has outside markings "ADP with a forward arrow with some horizontal lines, and then at the other end upside down markings with a greater sign PP less than sign. Should the forward arrow point toward the throttle body or toward the air filter (I'm thinking in the direction of air flow, toward the throttle body). I've taken some photos of the engine with air intake hose system unattached, if that might work...
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