Impala - Chevrolet :: 2001 - Idle Will Drop And Car Stall When At A Stop Or In Parking Spot
May 31, 2013
I have an '01 Impala, 3.8 engine with 200k miles. Whenever the engine idles, at a stop, or in a parking spot, the idle will drop, then the car will stall. It will start right back up, but unless you are actively pressing the accelerator, the same thing occurs. There's no sputtering or performance issues, and nothing to indicate that it's about to stall. I've replaced the IAC valve, AND the EGR valve. Still having the same issue.
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I have a 2001 santafe with a 4 cyl The code 102 was up so I replaced the mass air flow censer . I go on a test drive and the light stays off , but when I go to re start it again the light come on and stays on, with the same code. The only strange thing is the idle will raise for a min then drop down to almost a stall.
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My poor 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo SS is turning into a hooptie. Or at least it sounds like one. I am due for a front brake pad change in about a month, so I'm wondering if this new noise has anything to do with it. If not, I certainly hope it's affordable!
And now to the strange noise being emitted from the front of the car. This morning, about 50 degrees, I started my engine to drop my boyfriend off at work. While idling in the parking spot, I heard a dim car horn - fog horn combo noise. A neighbor gave me a "wtf" face, and I'm sure I returned her stare with the same expression. Hoping it was something else, I drove off.
First stop light, just down the block, while idling and waiting for the light to turn green, I hear the same noise. Very embarrassing. Next light I stop at, same noise. Once the car got to half of its optimum temperature, the noise stopped and didn't return.
That is, until several hours later when I needed to go to work and restarted the car from a cool nap. Same noise.
So, what the deal is? I thought it might be fan related, as it kind of sounds like there is some rattling going on in there, too.
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I drove to work this morning and parked my car (around 10:30AM). I return to my car at about 9:00PM. I approach it trying to unlock it using my remote. I keep hitting the button as I approach...it does not work. I unlock it manually and get inside and put the key in ignition...absolutely nothing happens. No lights, no dashboard, no...nothing.
Then I remember...I left my parking lights on the entire day! That must be what's wrong...
I go and grab some portable jumper cables and...boy did I kill some time trying to elicit a reaction. When I hooked it up, the car came alive completely...it just wouldn't start no matter how long I let it sit. I would simply hear a single click. So, I went a grabbed another set of portable jumpers and....same exact thing. By the time the tow guy came around, he tried it with his portable cables as well and...same exact thing.
I am trying to figure out what in the world is wrong. I replaced the battery one year ago, when I had trouble starting it. So...the battery is new and, by all appearances, in good condition. Outside of that, no history of starting problems whatsoever...which is what makes all of this so incredibly confusing.
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I have a 2002 passat. It is a 1.8T. I have a stock turbo, it has a full aftermarket front mount hooked up. It also has a blow off valve. OK my issue is that I believe it runs too rich. When I drive the idle will drop and the car will stall out. It has its good days and bad days. What can I do to make this not happen? Would I have to have a recirculate the air flow again? Should I have everything stock again? Would anything else stop this happening? As well as how much PSI does this car stock suss posed to push? I have a boost meter that only reads max 5 psi. Should it be more? I am new to VW and brought the car off a friend.
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I have an ambient temp switch connected to the vac port on my throttle emissions control solenoid for my 2150 carburetor. It's a 78 F-150 with a 5.0L 302, automatic 2WD. Would a bad ambient temp switch screw up my idle? I've disconnected the vac hose and it won't idle at all, and it does the same thing when I disconnect the two wires from the ambient temp switch. If I leave everything alone, I can get the idle down to around 1800rpm, but any lower than that and it stalls.
Is it possible to swap out this throttle emissions control solenoid with another type? I've looked everywhere and can't find an exact replacement, and I have no instructions on how to tune it.
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I've been trying to get her up and running for awhile now in order to sell her. I bought the car from a neighbor who never drove it (only 50k miles on it) and my dad had a great idea to get some new parts for it...I just wanted the car as it was... So we replaced the original carb for a newer carb and my father did all he wanted to do to it (I do know he took off the distributor, did some thing with the clutch, and replaced the fuel line to the distributor).
Well, when all was said and done (after a year and a half), the car is back up and running BUT when it sits idle it stalls. It will only stay running when you keep on the accelerator to rev the engine. As soon as you let up, the RPMs drop and she stalls. He's not sure why it's doing it, and I'm even less sure.
What are some reasons/causes/possible fixes for this?
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I have a 2011 Chevy Impala. When accelerating from a stop it will frequently stutter then jerk forward. The first time this happened I thought someone had rear-ended me.
I've been to the dealer several times about this however they say they cannot isolate the cause. More importantly I can't seem to get the vehicle to repeat this problem when I've brought it to the dealership.
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2009 Impala, 6 cyl., 32k miles, with the engine warm and running below 1000 rpm I only get cool air entering the cabin. As soon as I rev up to 1000 rpm and above heat enters the cabin. The coolant level was a little low and I added about 2 cups. I haven't driven it since adding the coolant but I doubt that is an issue. Since the day I bought this vehicle (at about 16k miles) I could detect a whine sound coming from the engine compartment at start up. This may have something to do with this problem, but until just recently the heater did work fine. The A/C works fine. Thinking maybe a water pump?
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I have a 2005 Impala with the 3.4 engine and 118,000 miles. About 2 years ago I had a code P0141 and since we didn't know for sure which oxygen sensor was out we replaced both of them. The P0141 code did not stop occurring after both sensors were changed. I read on an Impala forum that if you didn't replace the sensors with AC Delco the codes would continue so I didn't worry about it until my gas mileage starting going down recently. I ordered new AC Delco oxygen sensors and my husband replaced them Saturday, the old ones were sooted up pretty badly. Today a new code appeared, it is P0140, O2 sensor circuit no activity. What the problem might be now.
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My question is what is the possible cause of my car trying to stall when it idles? Here is the scenario. There was no problem with the car this morning. I was almost out of gas and filled it up. After filling up about two miles down the road when I can to a stop sign or had to slow to an idle in traffic the car seemed like it wanted to stall. When I was driving at and speed other then idle it seemed fine. When I left work tonight the same thing. but this time when I got close to home the check engine light came on. I did check the gas cap and that seems fine. I was wondering what the possible cause could be.
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I've got a 1982 automatic chevy 454 engine with only 46,000 miles on it (in my Winnebago RV). It runs just fine except each time I step on the gas pedal from a stopped position for an instant it sounds like the engine is about to die and then it starts going. Is this a major engine problem or something that requires minor adjustments? I want to sell the RV. If it's going to cost a lot to fix, I'd rather lower the price of the rig.
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2001 Chevy Impala. Blinkers only work occasionally. I suspect it has something to do with the tilt steering causing a short in the connection. Just bought the car and trying to work out some of the bugs.
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I have a '95 Ford F150 with a manual transmission and when I come to a stop light, the engine will either idle down more then it should then go back to normal or it will idle down and then stall out. And when I accelerate, I have to gun the engine for it to go forward or it will stall out again. I replaced the fuel filter and cleaned the air intake area and it still happens.
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I have 2000 Grand Caravan w/ 3.3L, AT. When warmed up, in stop and go traffic, at lights, or in reverse for parking, the idle speed drops, the oil light flickers and unless shifted to neutral, stalls. I've replaced the fuel pump and filter. I've adjusted the idle screw on the throttle body to 700 rpm, where it stays when the van is cold or when stopping in normal driving. Someone suggested the oil pump, and I added motor honey, but no change in symptoms. There are no vacumn leaks evident. How do I keep the idle from sagging? Would this be a sensor issue?
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I have had my golf R for 7 months now and ever sense I got tuned I have had this little issue. Besides this the car is amazing but ever now and then the car while coming to a stop and put it in natural to come to a stop the idle will go to 500 then come back up to 1200 then rest at 800. I'm getting my PCV replaced tomorrow. I'm um stage 2 tune fully loaded with Bsh intake full 3" exhaust.
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Two weeks ago starting jerking badly. Father said to check tranny fluid. It was low. Added more. A week later starting jerking again but not as severely as it did the week prior. Checked the fluid and it was fine. The next day didn't jerk at all...it didn't jerk at all until a week after that. I was out and about so before I left the parking lot I was in to go home, I shifted through all the gears on the column. Took off from the parking lot and the jerking stopped completely. Is my tranny slowly dying? No warning lights have come on yet (so is there a code to check?). Going to take it to a local transmission shop but wanted to get any other info I could. The tranny was flushed about 20k miles ago. It currently has about 145k miles on it.
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So I recently bought a Chevy Impala with about 150,000 miles on it. The check engine light is on and sometimes it will tell me my coolant levels are low. I filled it up with coolant and the message still comes on sometimes. Also, when I'm driving, I can feel my rpms go way up when I press the gas, but they car won't accelerate for shit. Sometimes the check engine light will blink, which I've heard is for safety, and my car will barely accelerate at all. I can drive it around town easily the way it is now, but I don't want to risk ruining it. On top of that, my radio and lights will cut in and out sometimes and get better the more gas I give it.
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I inherited this car from my parents a couple years ago with about 80,000 miles. It ran great for awhile, then the air conditioner and the gauges would quit working while driving. After a few minutes they would resume working and everything would go back to normal. Now it will start sometimes and will not start at other times. I have replaced the battery two times and it seemed to work for a short period. I have had several mechanics look at it. After checking the code and replacing a fuse or sensor and replacing the ignition switch the car is still doing the same thing and no one has a clue what is going on. It seems to me that it may happen more often when going over a bump. What could be causing this?
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I am having a problem with rough starts/ normal starts. This issue is intermittent. Once in a while when turning on the car I'll get white smoke and a pop noise from under the hood on the driver side. It smells electrical in nature. Other times like 80% of the time it starts normal. Also I have an issue with some of the cluster panel being lit while other are dimmed slightly. What is the cause of this problem? Where should I start to look to fix these issues? 2001 Impala LS 3.8L .........
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We have a 1999 4Runner with the V6 engine, auto tranny, and 230k miles. For going on a year now the engine will occasionally stall when at idle…usually happening at stop lights. The engine starts right back up. This may occur once every other month or once a week for several weeks. Stalling has occurred with warm engine and cold engine, during raining/damp period and when dry. Never has the check engine light come on or has it generated fault codes. Dealer can’t find anything wrong. We’ve replaced Air Idle Control Sensor (OEM), Throttle Position Sensor, Mass Airflow Sensor, and cleaned the throttle body. Plug wires and timing belt were replaced a couple of years ago. Other than this one issue it runs great. What to try next.
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