Impala - Chevrolet :: 2001 - Engine Ticking Sound For About 2 - 3 Minutes Every Time On Cold Start
Sep 1, 2015
I own a 2001 chevy impala 3.8 and I recently had a good friend of mine whose going to school as a mechanic install a manifold gasket upper and lower but now I am hearing this loud tick tick tick sound for about 2-3 min every time i start my car in the morning and then the noise goes away and its normal it never made this noise before is it harmful and break my engine or is it okay to just leave it....
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I have a 2000 Chevy Impala and it seems that every now and then when I try to start the car the security feature activates and I have to wait 10 mins to try to start it again. On some occasions when the 10 mins are up and I try to start it the feature reactivates and I wait another 10 mins. This actually happened on a ferry ride and I held up the offloading of vehicles. My question is, Will a remote starter installation alleviate this issue? If not. What can I do?
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5.0 coyote exhaust leak .. Since the cold weather has arrived i have noticed a new noise. During cold start engine warm up I hear a nice little tick-tick-tick which sounds to me like an exhaust leak. Is this a common problem? I have just over 58,000 miles would this be covered under powertrain or do they have some nice exclusions for exhaust?
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I just purchased a 2003 Chevy Impala. It has about 101,000 miles on it and it's the LS version. I have noticed that when I turn the key there is a sound and all the lights and warning stuff on the dash cycle through, I then turn the key the rest of the way and car starts right up. The other day I didn't pause and the car made a very funny sound when it went to start and I turned the key off. I waited a moment, then turn the key to where all the lights signal and process through then I turned it the remaning way and it started without issue. When starting this car is it best to allow the warning lights and such cycle through then continue to turn the key to turn it on or is there something wrong with my starter?
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I own a 2013 ES 350 with 5000 miles.
On cold weather conditions, doing a cold start, I allow the engine to run and warm up for a minimum of 5 minutes before driving. In this time frame the engine goes thru the whining sound and then the engine noise is quiet (normal).
What do other owners allow for engine warm up time before driving.
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2007 Chevrolet Impala 1LT3.5L Flex Fuel EngineAuto Transmission with shift lever on the steering column29,980 miles
Bought new Nov 2006 so is now four and a half years oldThe drive train is still under warranty (6 years or 60,000 miles). All recommended service per the manufacturers manual has been done. Book calls for first transmission service at 50,000 miles
NOTE: Previously at 19,600 miles the transmission cooler line fittings were replaced due to a small leak. Currently no evidence of a leak; no fluid on garage floor and the transmission fluid level on the stick shows right on the mark. Fluid still clean pale red and has no odor.
Majority of my driving is short hops with multiple stops, so the car gets heavy use shifted into and out of park gear. I do use the "parking brake" applying it after shifted into park and released before shifting out of park. I always have my foot on the brake pedal when shifting out of park.
PROBLEM: Having trouble shifting out of park on a cold engine or if the car has been sitting for an hour or more since turned off and put into park gear. Oddly enough, if I'm running a series of errands where the car has been in park for only 5 to 30 minutes, there is no problem shifting out of park gear. But if the car sits long enough for the engine to cool then it becomes hard to shift. The longer the time it sits in park the harder it is to shift out of park when the car is started.
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Recently I've been noticing a gas smell after parking my car after the drive home from work, but engine performance and mileage efficiency didn't seem affected, and I found no visible evidence of leaking on the ground (nor in the engine, but I likely don't know the right places to look).
Today, with the engine running, I looked around the engine to see if I could locate any gas leakage -- I located the fuel pressure regulator (I think; a golf-ball sized acorn on the right of the engine with a hose coming in the top and a pipe coming out the bottom and going down and to the left) and didn't see any leaking during my brief test. I'll check it again after my drive home tonight.
One new thing I did discover, though; while in park, when I slowly pressed on the accelerator, there would be a point where the engine started losing power and going into a rev/slowdown cycle: about a second or two of revving, then a half second of slowing down. This was while cold and in park; I've not experienced this in normal driving.
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2009 Impala, 54k, factory installed remote start will no longer start the engine.This problem just started with both remotes.When used in close proximity of the car this is what happens: 1st-attempt-I hear a short humming noise and lights flash, 2nd-attempt a click and lights flash, 3rd attempt (and there after)-no sound and no flash of lights.The remote lock/unlock feature with horn beep and lights flash works fine on both remotes.The car starts every time by key with no problem.Any thoughts of what may be wrong?
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So I recently bought a Chevy Impala with about 150,000 miles on it. The check engine light is on and sometimes it will tell me my coolant levels are low. I filled it up with coolant and the message still comes on sometimes. Also, when I'm driving, I can feel my rpms go way up when I press the gas, but they car won't accelerate for shit. Sometimes the check engine light will blink, which I've heard is for safety, and my car will barely accelerate at all. I can drive it around town easily the way it is now, but I don't want to risk ruining it. On top of that, my radio and lights will cut in and out sometimes and get better the more gas I give it.
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My 2005 Chevy Impala is taking a long time to crank. Now after 10 minutes or so of either idiling or driving, the car stalls out. I am able to restart it. Replaced the battery and no change. Lights are not getting dim in any way so I figure it's not the alternator. Could it be a bad starter?
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My 2000 impala starts when cold, runs for 10 min and dies, i found its losing spark when warm, i changed the coil packs, control module and cam sensor and have had no changes, it dies, and doesn't start, only turns over, i leave it for 30 min er so and it starts , runs for 10 and dies....
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All the other cars I had before started better after being warmed up. My 2005 Impala starts perfect when cold first thing in morning but if I go somewhere quick and try to start-up the engine warm it fights it's self and car shakes and it's super rough start . So I figured it's the hot vapors in the engine so I Remove the oil cap and it starts better . What to do to start a warm engine .
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Car needed a new battery, second year in a row--beside the point. But it had been smelling hot and smoking like for ever since I could remember even on short drives. The mechanic said oil was all over and had to wash it all inside. It doesn't use much oil, but I did add some occasionally when I used to drive a lot. In Nov., he changed oil and overfilled about 1/2 qt at least. He thought all ok and no problem--no major leak or anything, but it still smells hot and the oil looks black and I have driven it very little and oil is at fill still as overfilled. I am estimating maybe 500 to 1000 miles driven would be TOPS. Should it be so black? The CHANGE oil light comes and stays on. I know time wise, it is time to change the oil, but it is hardly driven. Is the light controlled by time and not usage (mileages)? Should I be concerned with the black color and change light since I hardly drove it? Is it ok to drive a couple hundred till I can get it in to change? I have a trip to take.
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I recently purchased a 2008 Camry 4cyl with 50k miles on it, the car runs great however on colder mornings (near or below freezing) there seems to be a ticking sound coming from the engine bay. The noise matches engine rpm, it will disappear once the car has reached operating temps.
Ive poked around the forum a bit for "camry ticking or clicking when cold" and have found a few threads saying their toyota dealership told them it was normal and that even new camrys do the same noise when cold.
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My 1998 malibu starts most of the time, there is a continual light on the dash and according to the maintenance book from chevy, they are saying check your emissions system. Also on the times when the car does not start right away, the oil, battery light also goes on; the sound is rrrrr, weaker and weaker, wait 5 minutes and can start the car. This has been the pattern. Diagnostics say it is the crank shaft sensor..... I have already read your stream about crank shafts sensors.
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When the engine of my 2007 Camry LE V6 is cold, it makes a ticking/knocking sound. The engine has 100,000 kms on it (60k miles). The frequency of the sound varies with the speed of the engine, not with the speed of the car.
When engine is cold: The sound happens roughly twice a second when the engine idles (at 700-800 rpm).
When engine is warm: The noise is less audible. It can be heard when idled at a stop, but you have to listen for it. The noise cannot be heard on the highway.
The car doesn't burn oil, and the oil level is ok. I had the oil changed 3000 kms ago, and it is still very clean (clear). The was the same before and after the oil change.
I am wondering if it could be the lifters, bad plug, or maybe a timing issue.
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Ok so about a week ago I was driving my 02 impala and I heard a loud noise while driving at 30 mph and it lasted till about 50mph. well I had my dad take it down the road while I was at work about 5 days later to hear what the noise was wondering if it might have been a hub. Well I call him an hour later cause he ain't back he says he's at the gas station and it won't reverse. Well apparently the noise was just my transmission being loud cause it was taking a while to shift. I've never had a problem with my tranny but some leakage which I think is just the gasket I just know that theres tranny fluid under my pan on one side. So I went to auto zone and they got a code for p1811. So I'm wondering if it just needs a filter and gasket change or is my tranny gone. It still shifts into gears just takes longer in 2nd and I can't drive in reverse at all?
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My engine in my 2002 Santa Fe 2.7 v6 has been making a ticking sound that was especially pronounced when cold starting. It would quiet down somewhat when warmed up but still a slight ticking would be there. I thought it was the hydraulic lash adjusters. I know Hyundai's service site sates that a ticking can be heard if the factory filter is not used. I tried using the factory oil filter which did not make a difference. The car had about 85,000 miles on it and I always maintained it well as well as keeping up with oil changes. I took it to the dealer to have a repair performed related to corrosion of the rear trailing arms and had the tech check the engine noise.
It was determined that the cam chains have developed slack and were slapping on the cam chain guides which prevent the cam chains from popping off in case of slack developing which was the case here. The chain guides are made of some type of plastic material and according to the tech showed significant wear. This was all covered under the powertrain warranty. For those that are not under warranty any longer and are capable of doing their own repairs this is the list of parts that was ordered by the dealer. The parts in red are the culprits. The rest are gaskets and seals. I don't think this is an easy job.
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I've got a 2001 Chevy Prizm (160,000 miles) Starts right up-after I drive for awhile and turn the engine off. It won't restart at times - I have to wait anywhere between 5 and 20 minutes till the engine will start again. The engine cranks - so it's not the starter or the battery.
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I bought a 1996 Lexus ls400 last July to extend the life of my Santa Fe. So during the summer months, I've hardly been driving the SF. My problem is that if I don't drive it for 4 to 5 days, I get a tapping noise on start up and it continues for about 3 to 4 minutes and then totally disappears. As long as I drive it every other day I never hear that sound. Not sure if this is a recent development or has always been there as the SF used to be my DD.
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Fuel Pump and Fuel Pump Relay replaced after 115,000 miles. On occasion, engine will turn over but not crank ... wait 10 minutes and the engine will start. No security light (passlock) or engine trouble codes displayed or recorded. Once the engine starts, it runs smoothly and normally. Problem of starting did not occur until the fuel pump and relay were replaced.
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