Impala - Chevrolet :: 2001 - Check Engine Light On / Coolant Level Low
Feb 10, 2015
So I recently bought a Chevy Impala with about 150,000 miles on it. The check engine light is on and sometimes it will tell me my coolant levels are low. I filled it up with coolant and the message still comes on sometimes. Also, when I'm driving, I can feel my rpms go way up when I press the gas, but they car won't accelerate for shit. Sometimes the check engine light will blink, which I've heard is for safety, and my car will barely accelerate at all. I can drive it around town easily the way it is now, but I don't want to risk ruining it. On top of that, my radio and lights will cut in and out sometimes and get better the more gas I give it.
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my 2002 chevy impala has had the check engine light on for a while now i took it to a shop and he said my engine was bad. I asked for the codes he got he said he just told me my engine was bad why do I need codes. I talked to another mechanic this week and he said he'd look at it, that it might not be that because I should of got a print out for what I paid for. SO I got a oil change today and when i left I saw in the comments that they put class 2 oil pan leak and a class 2 transmission leak. Could that be why my check engine light is on? How bad is a class 2 transmission leak?
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Went in due to the check engine light coming on and found out I had a oil leak in both oil cooler lines they wanted to charge me 350 per line and 200 for labor which brings the total to 900. Are they over charging me if not is there a cheaper fix for them? 2007 impala 3900 v6....
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I have an 07 Impala. Just recently, the engine light came on. I contacted OnStar who did a vehicle diagnostic and told me the problem was the emission control and further told me I should tighten my gas cap which might take care of the problem. It didn't. How important is it to take care of this?
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My 2003 Chevy Imapala went over some large water puddles and shortly after a check engine light came out. My local auto store did a check and stated there is a possible problem with a senor. If the senor got wet, could it even give the computer a good reading? Would it probably give a totally different reading once it dries?
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I have been dealing w/ a broken gas gauge for a while and have been monitoring my mileage and fill-ups and have been able to calculate my gas usage pretty well, however sometimes I may get a little lost on where my level is at. I just recently have been using a long plastic tie strap that reaches the end (I think) of the gas intake and I believe hits the gas tank. (Its goes in about 4' and I cannot push it any further at that point)
My question is when it comes up w/ no gasoline on it I am wondering how many gallons are remaining. Looking at a diagram of the gas tank it looks concave, where some of the gas may sit lower that where my tie hits. But I am almost certain that I have at least a few gallons remaining. For safety and other reasons this is not something that I am doing often, its just in this case I am a few miles from a gas station so I do not want to risk it.
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I've got some problems going on with my 2001 VR6 Jetta. I was driving home from my way to work this evening and all of a sudden the indicator light came on and told me to stop and check the coolant level. Within about three minutes the car was already up to about 200. I pulled over to a gas station and the coolant reservoir was completely empty. So I began to pour coolant in the reservoir and fill it up I notice I was pouring a lot of coolant so I went to the hood looked on the driver side below the bumper and water/cool was pouring out everywhere. I inspected as many radiator hoses as I could and did not find any cracks. The water seem to be pouring out from around the thermostat housing. My question would be since I don't know whole lot about cars would they crack thermostat housing because you need to have this problem?
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My Check engine Light comes on with a P0410 Code. It used to come on every 6 months and I would get it cleared. Now it is coming on about every month. I can't find much about it. Is this something I should get fixed right away. where is it located?
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2010 Chevy Impala: hat should I expect to hear from a mechanic?
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I own a 2001 chevy impala 3.8 and I recently had a good friend of mine whose going to school as a mechanic install a manifold gasket upper and lower but now I am hearing this loud tick tick tick sound for about 2-3 min every time i start my car in the morning and then the noise goes away and its normal it never made this noise before is it harmful and break my engine or is it okay to just leave it....
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I have a 2001 Chevrolet Prizm with check engine light showing PO420 and PO446 codes, what could be the problem?
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About a month ago I noticed the coolant level looked a little low. I attributed it to the fact that the engine was warm after driving. Tonight the coolant light illuminated and the mfd states the level is low. Sure enough it's quite low.Is this normal for the R? I know my MK5 GTI burned oil like crazy. Should I be concerned?
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I have a 2002 Chevy Impala with the 3.4L engine. The car has 180K+ miles on the original engine. The coolant temperature started fluctuating recently. Going from 200 degrees up to 240 sometimes 260 degrees.
I recently had the check engine light on with the P0420 code which indicates a bad catalytic converter, I had that replaced and I was hoping that maybe the lack of exhaust flow through the converter was causing the overheating. It is still fluctuating however after the converter replacement.
The coolant temperature seems to go up when the car is idling but when moving it starts to go back down to normal. I had the cooling fan assembly replaced last year after one of the fans failed. These are less than a year old and are both operating as expected.
A little history on the engine. It originally had that crappy DexCool in it that then ate away at the cheap plastic head gasket causing oil to leak into the coolant system. This caused the coolant to turn into 'mud' within the radiator and eventually the head gasket failed completely and I had to have that replaced along with putting in ethylene glycol to replace the DexCool. Now when the coolant system was flushed, I am not completely sure that all that 'mud' was flushed out of the radiator. So the radiator may not be operating at full capacity. In fact, driving through the mountains this summer going up inclines, the car would tend to start overheating.
So thoughts on what might be the issue, radiator, thermostat, sensor, water pump, something else? I'm pretty sure it's not the sensor because sensors don't fail in this manner (they fail either high or low). I'm leaning toward the radiator because once I get some air flow across it, the coolant temp gets back to normal.
Also, the A/C is sometimes working great and blowing really cold and other times it is just slightly cold.
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I have a 2002 Chevy Impala, 3.4 engine. Mileage is at about 235k. About a month ago I had to replace the radiator because the car was overheating. Not even a week later, the low coolant light was on (even after I filled the reservoir) and the car was once again getting really close to overheating. I took it back to the mechanic who replaced the radiator. He checked and said the head gaskets were bad. He showed me where they were cracked/torn and showed me that I had coolant mixing with my oil. I haven't had the money to fix it, so since then the car has been sitting in my garage.
I have drove it maybe 5-8 times though (to the grocery store down the street, etc.) Should I even invest anymore into this car, considering the age, mileage and problems (fyi, the car was in an accident so there's some body damage to the hood, front fender, the a/c isn't working)? Would replacing the gaskets or buying a used engine be a smart move? Or is it better to purchase another car? I only have about 3k to go towards another car, so I'm kind of afraid I'll get another one and it will have the same (or worse) problems.
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I just bought a 2000 GTI with the 1.8 turbo. It was very affordable, but it had a few problems. On hard rides, the check engine light was blinking AND I think there was too much oil in the crankcase (I say "think" because the dipstick funnel is gone and I'm not sure how far down the dipstick should go -- new one is on order).
I got rid of the extra oil, and now if I keep the oil in the hatched area of the dipstick (with the dipstick pushed down as far as it goes), the check engine light will never blink even under hard driving. But with the oil that low, the oil light will flash and beep on hard turns. I was experimenting, adding a little oil at a time, and hoping to find the magical sweet spot where neither the check engine light nor the oil light would go off. Instead, tonight I found the opposite -- the sour spot where BOTH of them go off.
So now I'm thinking maybe I need to change to a thicker oil. This car has 124,000 miles on it and was recently refilled with 0w-40. On my last car (a 1994 Golf with the 2.0 liter and 140,000 miles), the oil light would beep on hot days. I solved that permanently by changing from 0w-40 to Mobil 1 15w-50.
Finally, I checked the codes and it said there was a misfire in #2 cylinder as well as general misfiring So I checked the plugs and discovered that the previous idiot had gapped the #2 plug at 1/8 inch! So I (the present idiot) regapped them all and the engine seems to run better, but maybe going for months with such a huge gap has already fried the #2 coil. Should I just replace it? (or all of them?)
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My friend bartered for a '99 F250, 2wd/auto, 4 door, 7.3, 258k miles.
It had reportedly sat for one year, though the expired registration sticker and other things point to it sitting for two.
It ran low on oil, sputtered and died. Oil in the degas tank. Filled to oil to mid way on the hatch marks on the dip stick.
I drove it 25 miles to my house, and the oil level is not reading on the dip stick.
The sludgy fluid level in the degas tank is unchanged. Where is the fluid going?
I will refill the oil to see just how much it lost in the 25 miles if it important to someone, but I prefer to not waste the oil.
My first plan is to remove, inspect and replace the oil cooler o-rings. Even though the dealership charged him for this, I don't trust that they did it right. I think it is the easiest and mostly likely place for oil getting into the coolant.
It does have a really long crank before there is enough low pressure oil for it to start. At the moment I think this is a separate issue.
The dealership also charged him for a replacement injector. No idea if they replaced the cup or not.
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When I got the STOP check coolant level message on my 2002 Passat glx. I pulled over as soon as I could and then I began to over heat. The coolant level was good, actually it was a little high. The check engine light also was blinking. I replaced my water pump about 70K miles ago.
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When I start up the car in the morning, the infamous "STOP!! CHECK COOLANT LEVEL" warning will come on, and then shortly thereafter it will go away. I topped off the coolant level (with the pink stuff of course) and yet this light will come on occasionally. It mostly comes on first thing in the morning when the car is started up and cold, and *sometimes* come on when the car is warm. Fluid level is all topped off. What gives?
I was reading that there is a fluid level sensor that sometimes goes bad? could this be it? I changed the coolant temp sensor back in the summer of this year. (not sure if that has anything to do with it?) Not sure if I have a leak, cause I look under the car in the morning and I have no spots of coolant anywhere.
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On Sunday I'm driving to the store my LOW COOLANT light goes on. So I buy some coolant. I get home let the car cool off and check my radiator, it is full. My coolant recovery tank is also at the proper level.
Been three days already checked levels again and I'm not losing any coolant.
What the car is NOT doing:
1. Not losing fluid
2. Not running hot
I'm thinking coolant level sensor?
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For the last several days, most of the times I've started my car I've had the Red "Check Coolant Level" message on the MFD - accompanied by a tone / chime.
The first time it happened, I was a tad below Min, so I added a 'glug' of G13 to push it back up into the normal range. Everytime I've checked it since, the level is in the normal range.
So how is the level "sensed"? I had a new coolant reservoir put in about 18 months ago, so my "hope" is that it's not actually that (though those are really cheap).
Is there something else I should be cleaning / renewing? Maybe as simple as the electrical connection on the reservoir?
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Turned my car on this morning and heard a long loud beep, i look at the car at its saying "Check coolant level low - Check owner's manual"
Turn the car off (engine still cold) pop the hood and coolant reservoir is almost bone dry, way below min level. Check underneath, no apparent leaks, no puddle, etc. Turn car back on, no warning light, drive to dealer, the service advisor looks at it and says there should be no way it's that low that soon.
He said in the morning its common for it to be low but after the engines warmed up it should be higher (and it was) but still below min level. He thought that it was strange and topped it off. Said to keep and eye on it and it will gradually gone down since its 40% water and when it slowly evaporates the level should go down.
So not sure if i have a leak or my car came with low coolant from the factory or something else even, but check your coolant levels
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