My 2000 impala starts when cold, runs for 10 min and dies, i found its losing spark when warm, i changed the coil packs, control module and cam sensor and have had no changes, it dies, and doesn't start, only turns over, i leave it for 30 min er so and it starts , runs for 10 and dies....
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 Chevy Impala and it seems that every now and then when I try to start the car the security feature activates and I have to wait 10 mins to try to start it again. On some occasions when the 10 mins are up and I try to start it the feature reactivates and I wait another 10 mins. This actually happened on a ferry ride and I held up the offloading of vehicles. My question is, Will a remote starter installation alleviate this issue? If not. What can I do?
View 5 RepliesI have 2000 chevy impala with a 3800 series 2 engine with 170,000 miles on it. I have major oil leak which starts leaking when the car is running, i cannot see from the top and when i am underneath the car , I cannot see far enough up in the there to see where it is leaking, It is not coming from the seneding unit or the oil pan,,when the car is running it just pours out oil.
View 3 RepliesMy 2005 Chevy Impala is taking a long time to crank. Now after 10 minutes or so of either idiling or driving, the car stalls out. I am able to restart it. Replaced the battery and no change. Lights are not getting dim in any way so I figure it's not the alternator. Could it be a bad starter?
View 2 RepliesAll the other cars I had before started better after being warmed up. My 2005 Impala starts perfect when cold first thing in morning but if I go somewhere quick and try to start-up the engine warm it fights it's self and car shakes and it's super rough start . So I figured it's the hot vapors in the engine so I Remove the oil cap and it starts better . What to do to start a warm engine .
View 9 Replies02 Chevy Impala with 177,000 miles has re-starting problems for last 20,000 miles. New Battery, cleaned throttle plate, new fuel pump, check engine light on (emission problem was told to me by mechanic). Whats going on?
When the car runs it runs very well...to get the car started, just wait, sometimes 5 minutes, sometimes longer than an hour. All the time periodically cranking the engine...just does not start. But when it does start, it runs very well.
This problems occurs only after the car has started and is warm. Let it sit for a while then restarting the problem occurs.
I own a 2001 chevy impala 3.8 and I recently had a good friend of mine whose going to school as a mechanic install a manifold gasket upper and lower but now I am hearing this loud tick tick tick sound for about 2-3 min every time i start my car in the morning and then the noise goes away and its normal it never made this noise before is it harmful and break my engine or is it okay to just leave it....
View 12 RepliesI recently purchased for my son a 1986 camaro 2.8 MFI v6 the car had been sitting for over a year in the previous owner's back yard because it would not start.I have had a mechanic do the following: heads redone, replace the distributor, replace the timing chain and gears, new wires, and emptied the fuel tank and replaced the fuel filter.
I picked up the car and it ran for about two week no problem. Then it started diying occasionally when you let of the gas to come to a stop, so he replaced the fuel relay switch thinking that it may be going bad. The next day he had been driving it about 15 miles when it just died and would not restart. We shot a little starting fluid to see if we could get it to start and get it back home. it fired up and ran all the way home and died when turning into the driveway. and would not start again.
We replace the fuel regulator the car started right up and he took it for a test drive. The car ran about 4 miles, long enough to warm up and died again and would start. and again we were about to get it started with starting fluid to get it back home. pulled in the driveway and it dies. again it would not start, let it sit all night and the next morning still would not start finally got it to start with a squirt of starting fluid and moved it into the garage. shut if off and then tried to start it and it worked 5 times in a row.
I have a 1998 Volkswagen GL. The car runs for 15-18 minutes at a time very smoothly and then it is like someone takes the key out of the ignition. It just dies for about 10-20 minutes then it will start back up again. I have used the diagnostic on my car and gotten rid of all codes, but one. The one code that I cannot get rid of is 1426. I also cannot find out what that code means other then just a general error message. What could be causing the car to be shutting down like that?
View 4 RepliesI've had my car die twice on me lately. There is absolutely no warning - no sputtering, rough-running- just dies completely. I am still able to crank the engine after this happens, but it won't start immediately. After five or ten minutes, it will start and then run fine. 1990 Celebrity. what this could be and how to fix it?
View 1 Repliesi'm having a hard time starting my 2000 chevy impala. it orginal had a security plug on it. i had it removed. to start when i turn on the turn signal there was a noise, the odometer when blank, the air bag symbol appeared. the next time i tried to start the car it would do the same thing but wouldn't even turn over. sometimes you can turn the key on and wait 30 seconds, step on the brake and it may start. i have continued to try for up to 3 minutes. if you put on jumper cables sometime it will start. what is the problem?
View 2 Repliesi've got a 2000 chevy impala 3.4 v6 E. runs great once it starts, but lately that takes a lot of cranking. it's getting spark. it's got a new alternator, battery, starter, plugs and wires (and i checked for spark already) I think it's a fuel issue but don't know where to start looking because it has no other problems. there's no smoke or noises, no misfires, or hesitations. i put in a new fuel filter. i have heard that it could be the fuel pressure regulator or maybe even a leak in the line that's causing it to not get pressure. i can't hear any sort of fuel pump sound (maybe i'm deaf) is there a way to check this without a gauge? i simply don't have one and don't have the money to take it to a shop. p.s. i recently replaced both o2 sensors, but i can't see how that would effect the starting. pump, hose, regulator, fuse?
View 4 Replieswhile at stop in netural, reve engine, it seems to want to stall after it hits higher rpm?
View 1 RepliesMy Impala hesitates at 2,000 RPMs At every speed level. My mechanic and the Chevy dealer can't figure this out.
View 1 RepliesMy son has a 2000 Impala which will not start if it has been warmed up and then turned off for 30-40 minutes. If you turn it off and wait 15 minutes it will start every time - wait much longer and you are stranded. The starter sounds normal and you would think it is going to start but it won't. The car sat at the dealership for 2 weeks and they couldn't solve the problem. If the car is cold it starts every time.
View 10 RepliesHow do you shut off the CHANGE OIL LIGHT on a 2000 Chev Impala?
View 5 RepliesI just replace the engine in my car and I had new plugs and wires put in as well. Ever since the new engine, the car doesn't go up hills well and it is very sluggish from a stand still position. As long as I am driving on a flat surface I am good once I get up speed. I went to autozone and I got a P0300 code. Is this a bad ignition coil or maybe a clogged catalytic converter?
View 10 RepliesMy friend's Accent LC 1.3L won't start from time to time. This never happens on cold start, this is always the situation after warm engine stops and needs to be run again after 5-15 minutes. When you try to turn on the car then, starter is rolling the engine but nothing happens (Yellow key light on dashboard is on, so there is no problem with a key code). Then he wait for a few minutes and car starts like it nothing happens. I suspect the crankshaft sensor.
View 2 RepliesWhy does my 2000 chevy impala whistle when i accelerate? it also seems to shift hard.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2000 Impala with a 3800 V6 series 2 with 165,000 miles. The only code I had was a P0300 Multiple random misfire that occured off and on at first, Worse in the city Better on Highway. It would start running on half the cylinders and bogged down, with the check engine light flashing, after getting onto the highway it would straighten itself out at first. I thought i had water in the gas so i ran some heat through it. straightened out for a day then happened again so I thought maybe a should run some premium gas in it, The car ran like total crap until the premium was gone, so i thought maybe it's running too rich, I put 87octane in it and it ran great for a day or two, then it gradually got worse to where it would not straighten up on the highway, tried to die at stoplights and i had to drive it with 2 feet to get it home and park it. I've replaced the battery, spark plugs, wires, ICM checked good, coil packs are good, replaced fuel Pressure regulator, looked for arcing on the spark plug heat shields and it will not start. It turns over but doesn't try to ignite and when I get the slightest rumble of ignition, it backfires up through the manifold and I see a puff of gas or light smoke by the exhaust manifold.
The car had a vacuum leak around the intake manifold cover gasket and a leak on the fuel rail. I pulled the fuel rail off my impala, snugged up the rest of the intake bolts then disassembled the fuel rail, flushed it out and cleaned the injectors the best i could, then reassembled it. before i re-installed the fuel rail I hooked it up to the fuel lines outside of the engine and tried to start the vehicle. all injectors had a nice spray pattern. So i installed the rail and it still didn't start but it had more combustion than before although it's still backfiring like before. Checked the fuel pressure by turning the key on and the fuel pressure went to zero very fast. I blew the rail out with air so to make sure i didn't damage the regulator I replaced it with the old one, ran the test again with same results, so i reinstalled the new regulator. I performed the fuel pressure test a few more times while moving the fuel hoses and when i moved the back supply line the vacuum loss stopped then dropped to zero when i let off of it. So I replaced the fuel line connector and O-rings on the injectors. It no longer has a vacuum leak.
I cleaned the EGR Valve out and had no luck there, then I removed the Idle Air Control Valve-pushed the pintle in, re-ionstalled it and WooHoo! it started! Although it still ran like crap with the same random misfire I was still happy to hear it start.I pulled the plugs on it to do a compression test and all 6 cylinders have between 180-190psi so the engine is in good condition mechanically. I installed new plugs before getting the car restarted and when i removed them for the test they were covered in thick black soot after running for roughly 15 minutes max.
I have (2) 2000 Chevy Impala's so I've swapped sensors from my wifes car to see if it would fix it. I've tested the following MAP, MAF, IAC, coil packs and ECM. None of these made the car change. I believe it is a timing chain because the car has never had a new timing chain and is way overdue, but I haven't had a code for a crankshaft position sensor. Can the timing chain be bad without throwing a code? It's not out of time enough to change the valve timing because I had a good compression test but its not firing right and still has the multiple random misfire. I have not checked or received a trouble code for o2 sensors, crankshaft position sensor or cam sensor. Something has the timing retarded and is dumping extra fuel into the engine because my new plugs looked like they were in the engine for a year.
I have a 00 impala w 4t65e tranny I believe I have a p1811 code of hard and long shifting. I also need both cv axles replaced. If i replace the axles and have then dropped. Is it possible with the pcs going out, i would be able to drive 600 miles both way to a family thing without getting stranded.
View 3 Replies