I have a 00 impala w 4t65e tranny I believe I have a p1811 code of hard and long shifting. I also need both cv axles replaced. If i replace the axles and have then dropped. Is it possible with the pcs going out, i would be able to drive 600 miles both way to a family thing without getting stranded.
View 3 RepliesMy '08 Chevy Impala (116,000 miles) has had a recurring issue over the past few months. After I have first started it, and for maybe the first 15 minutes it is running, it has been 'shifting hard' from 1st to 2nd gear. Basically, the engine revs much higher than it normally would and it 'thunks' into second gear. If I intentionally push the gas slower it does not happen. The guys who service my car (not Chevy) told me that my Transmission fluid level is fine.
View 2 Repliesi'm having a hard time starting my 2000 chevy impala. it orginal had a security plug on it. i had it removed. to start when i turn on the turn signal there was a noise, the odometer when blank, the air bag symbol appeared. the next time i tried to start the car it would do the same thing but wouldn't even turn over. sometimes you can turn the key on and wait 30 seconds, step on the brake and it may start. i have continued to try for up to 3 minutes. if you put on jumper cables sometime it will start. what is the problem?
View 2 RepliesWhy does my 2000 chevy impala whistle when i accelerate? it also seems to shift hard.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2000 Impala with a 3800 V6 series 2 with 165,000 miles. The only code I had was a P0300 Multiple random misfire that occured off and on at first, Worse in the city Better on Highway. It would start running on half the cylinders and bogged down, with the check engine light flashing, after getting onto the highway it would straighten itself out at first. I thought i had water in the gas so i ran some heat through it. straightened out for a day then happened again so I thought maybe a should run some premium gas in it, The car ran like total crap until the premium was gone, so i thought maybe it's running too rich, I put 87octane in it and it ran great for a day or two, then it gradually got worse to where it would not straighten up on the highway, tried to die at stoplights and i had to drive it with 2 feet to get it home and park it. I've replaced the battery, spark plugs, wires, ICM checked good, coil packs are good, replaced fuel Pressure regulator, looked for arcing on the spark plug heat shields and it will not start. It turns over but doesn't try to ignite and when I get the slightest rumble of ignition, it backfires up through the manifold and I see a puff of gas or light smoke by the exhaust manifold.
The car had a vacuum leak around the intake manifold cover gasket and a leak on the fuel rail. I pulled the fuel rail off my impala, snugged up the rest of the intake bolts then disassembled the fuel rail, flushed it out and cleaned the injectors the best i could, then reassembled it. before i re-installed the fuel rail I hooked it up to the fuel lines outside of the engine and tried to start the vehicle. all injectors had a nice spray pattern. So i installed the rail and it still didn't start but it had more combustion than before although it's still backfiring like before. Checked the fuel pressure by turning the key on and the fuel pressure went to zero very fast. I blew the rail out with air so to make sure i didn't damage the regulator I replaced it with the old one, ran the test again with same results, so i reinstalled the new regulator. I performed the fuel pressure test a few more times while moving the fuel hoses and when i moved the back supply line the vacuum loss stopped then dropped to zero when i let off of it. So I replaced the fuel line connector and O-rings on the injectors. It no longer has a vacuum leak.
I cleaned the EGR Valve out and had no luck there, then I removed the Idle Air Control Valve-pushed the pintle in, re-ionstalled it and WooHoo! it started! Although it still ran like crap with the same random misfire I was still happy to hear it start.I pulled the plugs on it to do a compression test and all 6 cylinders have between 180-190psi so the engine is in good condition mechanically. I installed new plugs before getting the car restarted and when i removed them for the test they were covered in thick black soot after running for roughly 15 minutes max.
I have (2) 2000 Chevy Impala's so I've swapped sensors from my wifes car to see if it would fix it. I've tested the following MAP, MAF, IAC, coil packs and ECM. None of these made the car change. I believe it is a timing chain because the car has never had a new timing chain and is way overdue, but I haven't had a code for a crankshaft position sensor. Can the timing chain be bad without throwing a code? It's not out of time enough to change the valve timing because I had a good compression test but its not firing right and still has the multiple random misfire. I have not checked or received a trouble code for o2 sensors, crankshaft position sensor or cam sensor. Something has the timing retarded and is dumping extra fuel into the engine because my new plugs looked like they were in the engine for a year.
When parked and you shift between P to D or R loud engagement of transmission. Thought it was u joints, buddy says both look good/sound good when engaging P D R. Also shifts hard between 1-2-3 intermittently. I did read that it could be the TCC regulator valve?
View 2 RepliesEvery so often while driving in the city my car starts shifting rough between 1st-2en and 2en-3rd gears. If I stop; turn off the engine and then restart it stops. The car has 107,000 mi. and the fluid has always been changed as recomended. Do I have a shift selonoid going out somewhere?
View 2 Replies2007 Chevy Impala3.5L 6-cyl Flex Fuel engine w/ 4 speed auto trans52,800 miles
Extreme driving conditions maintenance schedule kept.Transmission standard service done @ 32,800 miles which was 20k ago.
PROBLEM:
1) Twice in past three days, when shifting from reverse to drive the transmission has slipped, revving hard with rpms spiked above 3,000 for about 2 seconds before engaging the forward drive gear.
Normally I come to a complete stop of all reverse motion with foot fully on the brake pedal before shifting. Admittedly, I got sloppy the first time noted and still had very slight reverse motion when I shifted.
2) Several times late today, while driving uphill at approx 35 - 45 mph, when the car downshifted there was an extremely brief moment of transmission slippage with spiked rpms. It was so brief each time that at first I thought I'd imagined it until it happened again. Then it did it once on a level surface in a parking lot when having shifted from reverse to drive without problem and was gently accelerating the transmission again slipped for just the briefest moment when the normal automatic shift point was reached. So far, all incidences while driving have been so extremely brief that it was the merest hint of a hiccup.
3) When bringing the car to a complete stop, such as at a stoplight or when parking, as the transmission automatically shifts for the braking of speed, sometimes there is a minor but noticeable thunk sound seeming to come from underneath the car, I'd judge to be somewhere about under the level of the dashboard or slightly forward of that. Could that be from a worn or broken transmission mount? And, if so, could that be somehow causing the slippage problem?
4) This transmission has always, even since new, allowed more roll after being shifted into park, the engine shut off and my foot taken off the brake than any other car I have ever driven. If I forget to engage the parking brake quite tightly, the car will roll forward quite a few inches before the parking pawl holds it, even on the level. I've been told both by the dealership shop and the independent mechanic shop that there is no problem and that this particular engine/transmission combination tends to do this although my particular car seems to do so somewhat worse than average.
ACTIONS TAKEN SO FAR:
1) Have made an appointment to take the car into the mechanic.
2) Will check the transmission fluid level per instructions in the owner's manual tomorrow when I have daylight to see what the fluid level and color on the stick looks like.
NOTE:
1) I periodically check the transmission fluid level and it has never been low or discolored. The shop checked it for me, along with making sure everything else was road trip worthy, for an emergency 1,000 round trip in late November, just three months ago. No problems then.
2) No evidence on the garage floor of any leakage. Garage floor is dry.
QUESTIONS:
1) I presume the first step is for the mechanic to check the fluid level and examine for any leaks?
2) If the mechanic cannot duplicate the problem in a test drive, then what?
3) If the problem cannot be duplicated and no apparent cause found, I presume that the prudent course of action is to go ahead and have standard transmission maintenance done (i.e. drop the pan, check for debris, drain and replace with fresh fluid) then see if that halts the slippages?
4) Given that this car has already had failures of the power steering pump, water pump, and part of the wiring harness, and has a fuel pump starting to get noisy, despite aggressively maintaining all standard/preventive maintenance, that perhaps it is time to think of replacing this car, especially if there proves to be any truly major transmission problem found?
For the past several months, every now and then while driving the engine power will reduce and the Driver Information Center will display two messages: "Service Stabilitrak" and "Engine Power Reduced", and the ESC and Check Engine dashboard lights will come on. Shifting becomes rough especially between 1st and 2nd gears. After turning off the car for 10 minutes or so, the engine power will be restored and the ESC light goes out but the Check Engine Light remains lit. After a day or so the Check Engine light goes out. Otherwise the car runs normally. This happens at least once on every long trip where I am out on the highway - sometimes multiple times on a single road trip. It does not happen in short trips around home.
View 1 RepliesMy 2005 Impala will have from time to time a hard shift where there is a big clunk_usually 1st gear. I had it at a transmission shop last year and they could not find anything wrong. What is going on.
View 3 RepliesMy 2002 Impala 3.4l sometimes starts shifting hard through all gears. It's not all the time. I have heard of others with this same problem and a transaxle service is apparently not the fix.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1999 chevy silverado 5.3 4wd w/ tow package. I bough it with 30,000 mi. It has always had a hard shifting/clunk after long drives or sometimes short ones that involve a lot of elevation. Oddly, if I stop and shut the car off for a minute or two the hard shifting stops, but eventually starts again. The truck now has 160,000...still with the shifting issue. What is this and with this many miles is it serious?
View 4 Replies2007 Chevrolet Impala 1LT3.5L Flex Fuel EngineAuto Transmission with shift lever on the steering column29,980 miles
Bought new Nov 2006 so is now four and a half years oldThe drive train is still under warranty (6 years or 60,000 miles). All recommended service per the manufacturers manual has been done. Book calls for first transmission service at 50,000 miles
NOTE: Previously at 19,600 miles the transmission cooler line fittings were replaced due to a small leak. Currently no evidence of a leak; no fluid on garage floor and the transmission fluid level on the stick shows right on the mark. Fluid still clean pale red and has no odor.
Majority of my driving is short hops with multiple stops, so the car gets heavy use shifted into and out of park gear. I do use the "parking brake" applying it after shifted into park and released before shifting out of park. I always have my foot on the brake pedal when shifting out of park.
PROBLEM: Having trouble shifting out of park on a cold engine or if the car has been sitting for an hour or more since turned off and put into park gear. Oddly enough, if I'm running a series of errands where the car has been in park for only 5 to 30 minutes, there is no problem shifting out of park gear. But if the car sits long enough for the engine to cool then it becomes hard to shift. The longer the time it sits in park the harder it is to shift out of park when the car is started.
About 11 months ago I had hard shifting with the 2000 Intrigue.. Local Tranny shop diagnosed P1811 and replaced the pressure control solonoid. Then about 10,000 miles later problem occurred again. Transmission shop said they would either redo the solenoid or rebuild the transmission. I asked for a new solenoid.
Now today I'm having P1811 again. Clear it for a week and it comes back. Transmission is going into high pressure mode making driving very harsh.
PCS Solenoid shows operation at 60% duty cycle with approximately 1 volt signal. Shifting times are about 0.4-0.5 whenever I have a scan tool on it. What is reasonable shift times for the 4T65E?
I got a code reading of P1404 on a 2000 Impala from the parts store, but they can't say for sure what it means. What this would be? The service vehicle soon light comes on.
View 3 RepliesI've been getting the gas cap code off and on for years now. I can wash the gasket off and it goes away for a few months, but then it returns. The cap itself is in showroom condition. It's just the rubber gasket/ring that appears to be "segmented" all the way around.
Replace just the gasket on the gas cap for this vehicle? I know I can buy a whole new AC Delco gas cap from Rock Auto for $20, but to me that's wasteful. Looking at the cap, I really can't see how it comes apart, though. No visible screws, but it must separate somehow ... or would you just use a pick and pull the gasket up and off that way?
Last night at 2am and it was about 10 degrees out (I say the temp because it might matter?) I started my car, let it warm up to normal running standard and backed up. My car moved backwards but the wheel would not turn at all. I pull forward into my parking spot and noticed that the wheel is extremely hard to turn left or right... almost impossible.
I check under the hood and noticed that my car was leaking something onto the group but it was dark and I couldn't quite see what it was.
Checked this morning and I found that my power steering fluid was completely empty. I had a half bottle in my trunk and put it in my car, then turned my car on. All of a sudden I noticed that the fluid is leaking onto the ground. Not really leak, more like a slow/medium pour and the wheel still wouldn't not move.
i've got a 2000 chevy impala 3.4 v6 E. runs great once it starts, but lately that takes a lot of cranking. it's getting spark. it's got a new alternator, battery, starter, plugs and wires (and i checked for spark already) I think it's a fuel issue but don't know where to start looking because it has no other problems. there's no smoke or noises, no misfires, or hesitations. i put in a new fuel filter. i have heard that it could be the fuel pressure regulator or maybe even a leak in the line that's causing it to not get pressure. i can't hear any sort of fuel pump sound (maybe i'm deaf) is there a way to check this without a gauge? i simply don't have one and don't have the money to take it to a shop. p.s. i recently replaced both o2 sensors, but i can't see how that would effect the starting. pump, hose, regulator, fuse?
View 4 Replieswhile at stop in netural, reve engine, it seems to want to stall after it hits higher rpm?
View 1 RepliesI have 2000 chevy impala with a 3800 series 2 engine with 170,000 miles on it. I have major oil leak which starts leaking when the car is running, i cannot see from the top and when i am underneath the car , I cannot see far enough up in the there to see where it is leaking, It is not coming from the seneding unit or the oil pan,,when the car is running it just pours out oil.
View 3 RepliesMy Impala hesitates at 2,000 RPMs At every speed level. My mechanic and the Chevy dealer can't figure this out.
View 1 Replies