Impala - Chevrolet :: 1996 - All Lights Are On But The Starter Does Not Engage
Jun 2, 2013
I have a 96 Impala SS with over 100k. I have a problem with it not starting, it is random as far as time of the day or if its been doing it, I will crank the key and it does nothing, all lights are on but the starter does not engage. I tried moving the shift lever and no luck, until I put it in neutral rock it back and toward and then it will start, I've done this three times in a row and it has started each one.
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On my newly purchased 2003 chevy impala i believe my starter is going out. Outside of turning the key and nothing happens how does a mechanic test or verify its the starter?
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My 96 Tacoma has recently developed an issue where the starter doesn't engage when I turn the key. If I let out the clutch/break and start over, it typically works.
The weird part is that I never had this issue until I had the clutch replaced. The day after I got it back was the first time I had any issues. It is intermittent and doesn't happen anywhere close to all the time. I took it back to the shop that did my clutch and they told me I needed to replace my starter but I'm wondering if there is any other explanation for what's happening that would make sense given the timing of the whole thing. Could work they did replacing the clutch be causing this?
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Recently the check engine light came on and coded out to the mass air flow sensor. I changed the sensor and cleared the fault code, but after doing so the car wouldn't start. After many failed attempts to start the motor, I disconnected the positive lead at the battery and reconnected it a few minutes later. The car started and ran smooth, however the check engine came back on and coded out to the mass air flow sensor again...
I let the car continue to idle and disconnected the lead at the sensor how the motor would react; it continued to run smooth....I then reinstalled the old air flow sensor and engine continued to run great...So with all this said, car runs great when check engine is on and code is not rest, however, car will not start upon clearing the code and resetting the light......is it safe to assume the computer is going bad and needs to be changed?
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I put new cheapest wiper blades from Auto Zone on my 1996 Impala SS when I bought it about 4 months ago. They are both quiet when it is pouring but if the rain is light the driver side wiper stutters like a wounded elephant, but the passenger side wiper is silent. What to do to fix this? Something to put on the windshield? Try a different brand, more expensive wiper?
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On my 1996 Impala SS, the low beam in one of my headlights just went out. Is this something I can fix easily or should I have a shop do it? Is it just a bulb to replace or the a whole sealed beam headlight?
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I am having trouble with my air conditioning system in my 1996 Chevy Lumina. When I turn on the AC, the compressor clutch does not engage and the fans do not spin. I was able to jump the compressor so the clutch engaged, however, the fans still did not spin and the AC was not cold. I then jumped the low pressure cycling switch (near the accumulator), which caused the fans to spin while the compressor was running. However, this still did not produce cold air from the AC and none of the AC lines were cold to the touch. I am starting to think the system is low on Freon, but I do not have gauges to test the pressure.
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I have a 2003 Chevy Impala LS with 120,000 miles, equipped with sentinel lighting. Recently, the instrument cluster lights along with the lighted controls on the door panels and steering wheel stopped working leaving me unable to see the speedometer while driving at night. All controls seem work properly. I did some internet research and it appears there are several causes and/or fixes out there. I would like to have one or two more probable approaches than just throw money and time at a trial and error approach.
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I drove to work this morning and parked my car (around 10:30AM). I return to my car at about 9:00PM. I approach it trying to unlock it using my remote. I keep hitting the button as I approach...it does not work. I unlock it manually and get inside and put the key in ignition...absolutely nothing happens. No lights, no dashboard, no...nothing.
Then I remember...I left my parking lights on the entire day! That must be what's wrong...
I go and grab some portable jumper cables and...boy did I kill some time trying to elicit a reaction. When I hooked it up, the car came alive completely...it just wouldn't start no matter how long I let it sit. I would simply hear a single click. So, I went a grabbed another set of portable jumpers and....same exact thing. By the time the tow guy came around, he tried it with his portable cables as well and...same exact thing.
I am trying to figure out what in the world is wrong. I replaced the battery one year ago, when I had trouble starting it. So...the battery is new and, by all appearances, in good condition. Outside of that, no history of starting problems whatsoever...which is what makes all of this so incredibly confusing.
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I have a 2002 chevrolet impala. The traction active light and abs light and traction off light comes on and the car makes a scrubbing sound.
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Today I noticed when I was parking at work that my back tail lights don't seem that bright. When I apply the brakes and such or the backup lights are very bright, but just the normal tail lights didn't seem to come off as that bright. At night they may appear brighter but this morning in cloudy overcast sky's with some light snow falling I am not sure if the person behind could have seen my taillights at all. I have a 2003 Impala LS, it's just over 102,000 miles. Is there a way to test to see if your back taillights are bright enough or is there a way to increase how bright they are when on?
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I went to leave today and found the 2012 Accent (auto trans) won't start. The starter doesn't even try to engage.
Battery voltage was 11.5 both when turning the key to start, and when just in the accessory position.
I put jumper cables on it from my truck and left it for 5 minutes. Voltage was now 13.5 but it still wouldn't try to crank.
What to easily check? I plan to call the dealer in the morning and have them come get it since I only have 17,xxx miles on it.
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So yesterday I drove to my friends house b4 work. My car started up just fine no problem. I was at his house for maybe an hour and as I was going to leave I tried to start my car and it was dead? All my lights work got a jump. Still nothing so today I took my starter off and had it tested( fail). Paid for a new one and put it back on. Hooked everything up. Went really smooth. But went to start it and it won't engage the flywheel? Am I missing something?
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I have a 1998 Accord EX 4-cylinder that will not start. When I turn the key the starter does not engage. The green key indicator on the instrument panel looks like it recognizes the key security chip.
When I checked for voltage at the starter solenoid coil wire I found about 9.0 volts without turning the key. When I turned the key I got a little over 11 volts. I disconnected the wire to the solenoid coil and measured 0 volts from the coil wire to the battery BUT 9.0 volts from the tab on the solenoid valve to the battery. It makes me think something is shorted to the frame of the starter.
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Replaced starter after which when i turn key to on position starter will engage and actually start engine; turn to accessory and starter will engage but wont start engine. Checked double checked and so on installation. And then exchanged for another rebuilt starter with same results. the reason for replacing the starter in the first place was during the winter went out to start to let motor run fur a while which it did. Went to move before completely warmed up and killed engine starter never made another sound. 1978 gmc 6000....
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Developed a problem that I'm trying to research a bit to see if there is a common problem. Haven't really seen too much info yet, other than a potential clutch switch that will continue to display "depress clutch!" That's not my problem.
I don't drive this thing more than once a month or so. But occasionally I'll drive it to work for week or less.
Basically, every once in a while I'll try to start the engine and the starter will engage and turn the engine for about 1/2 second and then stop. All lights on the dash stay on. I'll reset the key, and it will usually then start normally on the next try. Sometimes it does the same thing on the second attempt.
Battery is 100% topped up, as it stays on a battery tender. Battery load test shows great. Connections are tight and clean.
The other day I cleaned the main B+ terminal on the starter, made sure the terminal jamb nut was tight and cleaned; then assembled the terminal and torqued. Removed, cleaned and re-torqued the top bolt on the starter. Cleaned and re-tightened the main grounds. Also cleaned the solenoid connection and made sure it fit back on securely.
Was fine for about 6 starts then it did the same thing again.
The last work I did on the car was a clutch upgrade (myself)...literally almost a year ago. I've driven it about...500 or less miles since. So I'd have assumed bad starter connections, but I think I've ruled those out. I didn't drop the subframe, just the transmission. the problem did start pretty much immediately after that job and hadn't done it at all before that job.
So what other interconnects are in the system to control the starter? Relays, control modules, switches, sensors...I'm sure all of the above. Something is allowing the starter to turn for 1/2 second and then drops it.
Perhaps the battery is dropping below voltage while cranking and something is aborting the start?
I haven't really done much diagnosing other than a simple load test on the battery. I haven't taken voltage readings under cranking, voltage drops across wires or voltage readings at terminals yet. Ugh..I really just don't feel like it. Maybe I'll just dump the car into the Pasquotank River.
Not that it really matters, but I've also installed an APR K04, full exhaust, Carbino intake...I don't know what else. But it was all done quite a while ago, by me. This second clutch I've done seems to have been the thing that triggered this particular problem.
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2003 Passat 1.8t FWD.
My buddy is having a wierd issue that just recently started after it's gotten cold out. The car would not start for him so he had me look at it. Attempting to start there's no sound from the starter at all. Battery is fine. When I shift in and out of a few gears, the starter engages and the car starts. Stop the car. Attempt to start it again and nothing. Shift through the gears some more and the car almost starts but quickly dies. Shift some more, start, running like a champ.
What is it about shifting through the gears that allows the starter to engage and the car to run again?
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Came home from a trip and the Santa Fe had been parked for 3 days. No starting issues prior, but went to move it and no go. When I turn the keys something "spins" but the starter does not engage. 99% sure it needs replaced. 02 GLS V6 AWD
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My mom's 2012 accent won't start. When turning the key the starter does not even attempt to engage. Battery voltage is fine, I also tried jumping it. I have already checked all the fuses and relays and they are good.
Whenever the car is attempted to be started, the Electronic Throttle Body/ MAF makes a high pitched sound but that is all we can get out of the car right now. I also checked the parking sensor by going from Park (P), through all the gears, and then back to Park. Still nada.
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I have a 2000 Ford F150 lariat with the 5.4 liter engine. At least once or twice a day, its like the starter hits a bad spot and will spin but not engage the flywheel. It has a new starter, battery, and solenoid. What this might be?
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My Nissan sentra will start on the coldest day, but now that it's getting warmer it sometimes won't start! Turn the key and I have power to everything, but engage the starter and nothing! Not even a click! Try and try and eventually it starts. What could cause this??
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