Impala - Chevrolet :: 1965 - Fuel Pumps Only Leaks When Give It Full Throttle And Bring Car Up Well Over 65 Mph
Jun 21, 2015
I have a 1965 Chevrolet with the original 396 engine. When I purchased the car, I noticed the fuel pump was wet with fuel at the weep holes. I replaced the pump with a new one. This pump also leaked at the weep holes. I thought dirt may have been in the fuel tank and the check valves were stuck causing the leak. I installed a glass inline fuel filter before the fuel pump and installed another new pump. There is no dirt in the filter. This pump also is leaking from the weep holes. The pump only leaks when I give it full throttle and bring the car up well over 65 mph. I would like to retain the stock type of fuel pump. I'm wondering if the pump push rod is a replacement at some time and too long.
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I replaced the thermostat, flushed the radiator and have the same problem. it can idle just fine but it gets hot driving less than 15 minutes. There are no visible leaks.
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The cold air box is a black plastic box that sits forward of the engine/valve cover. It connects via black plastic tube to the air filter box on one end and to the engine on the other. I took it off it. 'Lo and behold it was full of oil.
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My 2000 Chevrolet Impala doesn't want to start unless I tap on the throttle under the hood--battery seems okay, as the heater, radio, lights work, but starter won't even click unless I do this. Know why?
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My 2007 Chevy Impala with the 6-cyl engine is, overall, a nice car. One thing I just do not like about it, though, is the electronic throttle. There is a quite annoying lag between acceleration on the gas pedal and response from the car It isn't just my car, all the Impalas and other cars I test drove when shopping for the car are the same way. Even the 2007 Buick with the last year of the 3.8 L engine had a touch of lag time compared to the 1987 Olds Cierra I had with its 3.8 L engine and mechanical throttle. I'm no lead foot but when I want acceleration I want it now and not later. Guess I got spoiled from 20 years driving the '87 with its giddy up and go.
When making left turns without a traffic light, I have to allow a much wider open slot in oncoming traffic than I ever did since driving the 1973 Toyota Corolla with its four weak hamsters under the hood. I'm not the only person I've heard gripe about electronic throttle. I have to wonder what about drive by wire is superior to mechanical throttle if it slows down the throttle response so noticably???
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I have a 2004 Chevrolet Impala. The fuel gauge is not working properly and I'm not sure what could cause the problem. I'm not sure how to explain this clearly, but it seems like the whole gauge was tilted to the right, so that when the tank is full, the arrow reads way above the "full", and when the tank is empty, the arrow is in the middle between "empty" and "full". What could cause this issue?
Sometimes, when I turn the key on and off multiple times, the gauge gets reset to normal, but after a few days it goes back to being defective.
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It's time to do some oil change and is using 10w30 synthetic but the truck is eating fuel like crazy and I can hear some kind of knocking when full throttle .
Sparks , boots and fuel filter is new . The mechanic said I should put some lighter velocity oil . truck odo 130k v10 hot hot weather .
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The pumps at times will function what appears to be normal. At other times the pumps will not stop running and it is at those times when the engine does not like to run.
I do not know if the engine will not run due to too much pressure or not enough fuel pressure. The problem is with both tanks and pumps so I do not believe the problem is inside either of the tanks.
One problem is that I just got the truck and the prior owner had at times done a little work and you know how that can be a problem. He could have done some damage to some hoses or who knows what. He had replaced the radiator and the left side exhaust manifold recently, though at different times. He thinks the problem started around the time he did the radiator. I know it doesn't make sense but things can get bumped or damaged.
What would the problem be that it could come and go? I drove it for a few miles and I thought that maybe the problem had gone away after I replaced what appeared to be a short vacuum line by the throttle body. But the problem still comes and goes. Now the truck is stuck till I figure the problem out.
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The fuel gauge on my 2000 Blazer is flipping from empty to full. (Even as I drive down the road it moves.) And nothing in between. The fuel pump was replaced about a year and a half ago. I've been told the fuel pump controls the fuel gauge. So I'm wondering if there could be a loose contection or if this is a sign the pump will go bad again.
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My R is vibrating in second gear near full or full throttle around 2,000 Rpm. It feels like a high frequency vibration. It seems to be only happening in that scenario. It's when the turbo spools up and there is a large rush of exhaust gas produced very quickly. My guess is that my apr downpipe paired to the stock cat back is the culprit. It didn't happen when I first put the downpipe on, but after the next track day it started. I don't know if there is anything to burn in inside the apr downpipe but it got louder too. Could it be back pressure from the stock cat back? It's very strange and I wondered if it is stage 2+ but running the stock cat back has felt this? I checked to see if the drive shaft was rubbing on anything and for any other visual indicators of rubbing around the downpipe and I see nothing. Perhaps it's the stock muffler. I'm just not sure.
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I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado with the 4.8L V-8 engine. It acts like it is running out of gas ( the gas tank is over half full). The truck has sat for about 6 months in this condition without being started here in Sacramento, CA. I then replaced the fuel filter and for a few minutes it started and the engine ran fine (without actually driving it). A few days later I started it again and it now again acts like it has fuel starvation, it will rev up briefly then act like it is running out of fuel. I know the fuel pumps are the Achilles Heel of these trucks, but before I try changing it I was wondering if there might perhaps be another problem such as the new fuel filter plugging up quickly or possibly an electrical problem. I've always heard these fuel pumps either work or they don't work, nothing in between. This problem is intermittent but big enough the truck is not driveable. Is there any way to get a good take on the problem before diving into the fuel pump replacement and hoping that solves the problem ?
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I have an 02' Blazer 2Door 2WD 4.3L vortec. Great truck - very low miles. About a month ago the fuel pump went out. She was showing signs / not starting on the 1st/2nd try and finally wouldn't start. It's a 12 year old pump and I was also that guy trying to make til Friday on a quarter tank - so no complaints so far. I checked the relay and fuse, all good there - so I bought a new AC Delco and fuel filter. Drained and dropped the tank, cleaned and dried the tank and installed the new fuel filter. The pump came with a new pigtail - so I wired in the new pigtail, attached the hoses and re-attached the tank. Not bad for 6 hours of work ( first time - don't judge ). She fired right up and ran like a champ / about a week later I stopped and filled up the gas tank. Next day - no start / no whine from pump / 0 psi at the schrader valve.
Assuming it must be an electrical issue - I dropped the tank and tested the gray power wire / 12 volts. But to be thorough / in case I made a mistake / I stripped and re crimped all the connections, heat-sealed the sleeves and wrapped in all in electric tape. Tested the pump - she hummed like a kitty. Re-installed the tank and she fired up like a champ. Drove around a couple of days - stopped and filled the tank with gas. Same thing - wouldn't start right there at the pump. i poured fuel in the intake - she would start and run until the fuel burned up.
No hum from the pump. had it towed home ... again ... began to siphon my now full tank of fuel to drop it yet again. At about 1/2 way , I tried her and the pump primed and she started right away. For the past two weeks I have been unable to make it NOT WORK - but i am worried to go very far , less i be stranded again. on the gauge I get 60 with the key on and 56 running. With the engine off the pressure holds for quite a long time - well over an hour+. So what would cause a brand new AC Delco pump to not work only when the tank is full - then start working when some of the fuel is removed?
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1991 940 SE Turbo ... I am trying to figure out why there is no power to the 10 amp fuel pump fuse. Drove the car all day with no issues at all.. The next morning it just wont start. Found it wasn't getting fuel..I have replaced the tank pump thinking a shorted pump would disable the system, I have replaced the in tank Fuel Pump, Nothing. The fuel pump relay, Nothing, and pulled the under car fuel pump and checked it and its fine. I don't get it?? what could it be? I went to the library to get a copy of the wiring diagram, but the Chilton's Mechanic wiring bible was so smudged I could not even read it..
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I put a new battery and the fuel tank is full but the car always has trouble starting. the other day i sat trying to start it, pumping the gas for 10 minutes or so. Nothing. I noticed some dripping under the car but it looked like coolant. Could this be something bigger? I have a new battery in. Do I have to go and start it every week and let it run for a few minutes? Any portable car jump start?
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Need to replace fuel pump. How do I remove seat bottoms.
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I have just purchased a 2004 v 8 phaeton with only 12k miles. it drive great except that when I give throttle /acceleration there is a noise (low pitched- hollow). I do not know if this is a normal noise or something which i need to worry about and always the engine coolant temperature gauge is at 200 (which is in the normal range- not sure because the temperature outside is high 102f). it drives great and all functions are fine. Do I need to change something or take it to dealer. the local dealer recently changed oil .
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09 i4 AUTO 47K miles ... When the car is running at around 50mph and if I give it very slight throttle (enough only to keep speed constant), I would hear this rhythmic humming noise. The hum rhythm has a frequency of about 1/2 second each. It is very muffled, almost like exhaust noise or tire noise. However, if I downshift to 4th gear, keep the same speed, and apply the throttle in the same way, the noise doesn't occur.
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As the title says, I just replaced my JVC harness and glow plugs, now it start and run fine, but it will suddenly raise the idle to 1000rpm, and sit steadily untill I press the gas pedal, then it will fall into its normal idle range. I replaced the stuff today, and I did not get the time to get the engine hot, or test drive it, before I had to leave. But the engine did start fine, and idle fine. Except from the sudden raise after a few minutes idling, it will then hold around 1k rpm.
Strange, can't remember if it did that before. I get no fault codes on my SCT device. The car has been sitting for 3 months before I finally got the glowplug relay, mine was non functional.
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I have an 03 Ranger 4.0 4x4 5 speed. It has no power, can't give throttle or it bogs real bad. Baro shows 18in vac with KOEO. When running it has 15in vac. Replaced MAF, fuel pump, and fuel filter.
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I bought the 2005 F250 6.0 Turbo Diesel with 67,000 miles on it last March. It has given me gave me absolutely no problems until now. In the last 2 weeks I have had it plugged in when it was below 32 degrees outside. Otherwise, I just remote started it every morning and let it run for 20 minutes before I left. In the last 2 weeks, I have noticed the same problem whether it is morning, afternoon, or evening and it happens at different times. I will be at a standstill at a stop light, stop sign, or parked in my driveway when this occurs. Sometimes, and like I said, "sometimes", it will hesitate when I give it throttle. It will quickly respond after maybe a second, but the hesitation is still there. It only does this on occasion!
I work for a Lucas Oil distributor, so in the winter I ran the "extreme diesel conditioner" through it with a tank of diesel about every other week. I also used the fuel-injector cleaner at every fill up. On "ONE" occasion, and like I said, "ONE" occasion, when it hesitated at a stoplight, I looked in the rear view mirror, and noticed a short burst of white smoke, and then it took off. It has not done that since. I took the EGR off and cleaned it and it seemed okay until 2 days later, then the same hesitation came back, but like I said, at times!
I replaced the air filter and since then I have done nothing. I am now being told to check the coolant level in the resevoir. When I un-screwed the cap the cap, there was pressure in there and the fluid was about 1/4 inch low from the line. I was also told to check the filter on top of the block, but I have not gotten that far. Ford says it is the EGR cooler system! I have "NO" check engine lights!
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My 06 suburban is causing problems. Every time I come up to a stop sign or intersection and slow down then give it some gas it seems to stall. I then have to take my foot off the gas and wait a second and then slowly give it gas again. The engine isn't stalling though . I had it in to midas and they cleaned/ washed out the throttle area ?
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