Ignition - Toyota - Repair - Celica :: 1999 - Light Turned Green Put It In Park Now Won't Start - Making Whining Noise?
Jun 6, 2015
It's a 1999 Toyota Celica GT 2.2L, about 190000 miles and I just replaced the transmission not too long ago. Here's what happened, I was sitting a light, the light turned green, and I pushed the gas and the car stalled. I put it in park, tried to turn it on, and it won't start, but is still turning over, making an awful whining noise. Not the transmission. Battery is good, windows, stereo, etc still work. Terminals are good. Everything is still connected, I just changed my oil about 1000 miles ago, still has oil. Has transmission fluid, actually has all it's fluids, no leaks. No check engine light or any other lights. She did not overheat, if anything was colder than usual, No water in my motor, everything LOOKS good, and I take good care of my car, so I'm really baffled. I just spent my savings on the transmission, I'm not a mechanic, I'm just learning to do things on my own.
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i have a 96 toyota celica sx which makes a horrible noise when i start it, its almost like a high pitch rattling noise, usually goes away when it warms up but sometimes still making it accelerating, think the noise is coming from area which is in the photo, what it is?
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My year-old Camry hybrid stalled out last night. It was the second time this has happened. The first time, about a month ago, I made a quick start from a light, followed by a quick stop, both actions to avoid an accident. (I was about to get rear-ended and scooted into the intersection to give the guy closing in my mirror more room.) After the stop, the car had no power but it started up, no problem. Last night, I was about a minute into my trip, stopped at a light, and the power just died. Again, it started no problem.
This time I noticed that the radio went out. Not sure about the headlights. The emergency blinkers came on at the touch of the button before I restarted. In both cases, I stepped on the accelerator and got no power. Took it to the dealer and they couldn't replicate the problem, of course, and whatever interrogation they did of the systems found no faults. They had to be convinced that I knew the difference between an actual stall and just going from gas to electric. It's kind of disconcerting to just stall out in the middle of the street. And I'm concerned that this is a problem that could get worse -- probably just after the warranty lapses.
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I had this same problem in my toyota celica recently. I discovered that it was the air vent making the whistling noise. I had closed the vent, or so I thought. Due to age, the vent is a little loose and so when I had it "closed", it was actually open just enough to create the sound. After some fiddling with the vent opener, I managed to make the noise go away.
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My 2003 Toyota Camry LE has been running fine. Recently I parked the car somewhere for about 5 minutes and when I returned the car would not start, i.e. when I turned the key in the ignition the engine would not engage. I called the tow truck. The tow truck driver takes a look and tells me that she can hear the engine trying to kick in. She thinks the battery is fine, the alternator is fine etc. etc. So she pops the hood, takes a long metal rod, places it on the starter and gives it a couple of gentle taps. Then she asks me to start the car. I do and it works. She tells me that the starter was stuck and that what she did freed it up.
The car runs okay now but I am concerned as to whether this could be a sign of things to come. Should I take my car in the get the starter looked at or maybe replaced? The dealer says that a new starter will run me 350 bucks but also said that I don't need to come in unless it happens again. What does the community think? Do I have a problem or was it a one off thing that I can ignore for now? And I don't know if its important or not but the weather here has been starting to get colder lately. Could that be responsible in any way? I have about 81000 miles on this car.
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My Pris 2010 would not start this morning. My wife tried to start the car this morning and it would not start. All the symbols on the display light up and would not go. She then tries to turn off the car, but the Triangle symbol with the exclamation mark within it lights up. The Start button light is red and the Park button flashes green. Added to that is the constant beep that you hear when you try to close the door with the keys in the car. I cannot even turn the steering wheel. I had to get it towed to the Toyota dealer and am was told that i would hear back tomorrow.
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I have a 4x4 5.2L 99 Durango. Everything was running great and the all of a sudden I started it to go to work one morning and it would not move. Now its making a grinding/whining noise when its not in park, it tries to move when I put it in gear but has the grinding/whining noise and is real sluggish. Then after its running for about 5 min it wont move or go in gear at all. I have had reg. transmission fluid changes and was running great. now this. Ive checked the fluid and its full to.
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The green A/C light on my 2002 Camry (4 cyl) will start to flash after the the A/C is turned on. After reading about the relay fix I tried swapping relays and had the same symptoms. The compressor will engage and for the few seconds that its engaged it will just barely start to blow cooler air until it starts to flash. I then noticed that with the relay completely removed I would also get the flashing light after a few seconds when the A/C was turned on but the air would not start to turn cold.
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ok so i have this park ave. that i had a new key cut. started and ran fine. then it shut down. nothing showed in error codes. now i insert key in ignition and security light on dash blinks. turn ignition to on(run) security light goes out. tried the 30min relearn for key with no results.
where is the BCM located? is there a decent diagram of where? last diagram i used said the ECM was located by evap. can. damn thing is located in the air filter assembly!
the fuel system is charging. but not staying charged. no cranking of the starter.
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So the car was unused and sitting in snow for about 2 months. Now the car will not start, and actually does not make any noise when key is turned. No lights inside the car turn on. No automatic or electronic buttons work at all. Is this a totally dead battery or starter (since it makes no noise with key in ignition) or something else (e.g. electrical)? I tried to jump start the car which did nothing (but honestly not sure if it was done for a good enough amount of time... about 5 minutes).
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Early senility or perhaps just a busy mind has led me to turn off the ignition key before shifting from drive back to park. This is obviously not natural for the car but it did not seem to do any harm. I am wondering however if it can be damaged by this?
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I change my 3.23 gears on my limited slip differential to 3.90s everything was installed back to how it was oil was added at the end...however when i went to test drive it, it was whining and on reverse it would be popping..
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I just purchased my first VW about a month ago. (Golf tsi white auto). I love the way the car drives/handles. But I was surprised because at just under a 1000 miles the engine light went on. Took it to VW service to check it out. They had to keep it for a few days to do tests with the main VW center. I got the car back without much explanation other than they put in an O2 sensor.
No engine light now for a couple weeks. They also noticed that my wheels are missing 4 lug nut covers (not a big deal). For some reason I am just starting to notice the green brake light on when I first turn on the ignition prior to setting in reverse which disappears upon reverse or drive. I assume this is normal... Question: should I be concerned about this engine light O2 sensor issue?
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I have a 2003 Nissan Murano with over 100k miles on it that's been serving me well for the past year and I've never had any problems until now. One day when I was accelerating after a stop light turned green the car stalled. I restarted it and it did it again right away. I was visiting my family at the time but managed to drive the 2.5 hours home with no problem and this has only happened once since and it has been awhile since the event. I have since started accelerating slower, but I think a problem is still present. I went to Autozone for a free code reading and received 3 possible codes: P0746, P0430, and P1700. The check engine light came on not long before the first occurrence.
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2002 F350 7.3 PSD. 192k miles.
From my understanding, a CEL is supposed to illuminate each time you turn the ignition ON as part of normal startup procedure.
I figured the previous owner must have pulled out the bulb to hide the fact that the truck had a few "issues" before selling it, so today I pulled out the gauge cluster and it looked as if the CEL bulb was a tiny LED soldered directly into the gauge cluster itself. There were a few serviceable/removable bulbs for things like turn signal indicators, high-beam etc... but the CEL did not have a serviceable/removable bulb.
I've been driving this truck and working through it's "issues" and fixing things as I go, but it keeps throwing codes without the CEL illuminating. What's going on here?
I thought the check-engine-light was supposed to illuminate each time the ignition was turned on, and that it would come on each and every time the vehicle registered a fault code in the ECU/PCM.
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I have a 1999 Toyota Tacoma manual shift and when driving with the air conditioning on my truck makes an odd noise. The noise is very sporatic but seems to happen most at about 50MPH and 70MPH. I am going to try and type out the sound...."Chht" It is quick and only happens once at a time. The power of the engine drops when it happens as though it may cut out. But it is very quick.
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I have a Toyota Tundra 2000 SR5 V8 4.7L with about 100k miles on it. Today the starter did not disengage after I turned the ignition off. I did not disconnect the battery in time and now the battery is completely dead (no charge even to the door locks). About two months ago I replaced a three-year-old battery after I could not start the truck and measured only about 9 volts on the battery with a multimeter. Now I realize that a starter already going bad was probably affecting the first battery.
Questions: Does it sound right that a starter that does not disengage will kill a battery pretty quickly? For a starter that does not disengage, are we looking at the starter or the solenoid or the relay or not enough information yet to know? Does this model Tundra have an integrated starter and solenoid or separate? Where is the starter? Is there any recommended order of replacement/troubleshooting (for example, start with the relay, or it's probably the solenoid so start there).
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My aunt's toyota camry will only start if we hold the directional indicator down when turning the ignition on. I thought she was crazy when she told me but that's really the only way it will start! It's a 1999.
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I am a Honda/Acura nerd. Decided to buy my friends 02 Celica that had piston slap from the famous oil consumption issue i learned about. Did a bunch of research and swapped in a Corolla motor. Everything seemed to go as normal, its in and running just fine. Only problem is now the power steering pump is making a very loud whining noise like its low on fluid.
Now first i must say the car ran, drove and turned just fine before the swap. No noises or issues aside from the piston slap. On the 1zzfe engine there is 2 bolts to remove the power steering pump and move it out of the way, easy enough.
My question is how did the power steering pump manage to get damaged? I've inspected under the car a bunch of times, inspected the top of the power steering pump, inspected everything i could looking for a problem. I just don't see any...no smashed hardlines, no leaks, has plenty of fluid, sensor is firmly plugged in. I notice when it is making the whining sound, the hardline that connects to the top of the pump is vibrating, which is what is making the sound i guess...if i crank the wheel all the way to the right or left it doesn't make the noise at all...
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have an issue with my 03 trailblazer. i have the problem of no start when key turned to start position. actually nothing happens when the key is turned to start position. dash comes on when key is turned to on pos tho. took battery off and had it tested and it is at full charge. took starter off and had it tested and it passed. checked ignition relay cavities per this youtube video "Chevy Trailblazer no crank testing and information" and there is no light when touching the ground request cavity and turning the key to start position.
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My ALT is making a bad whining noise and when I disconnect it, the noise stops. it also seems to be slowing down the engine if that's possible.
The batt voltage is the same with the car running or stopped. no cell, batt idiot light comes on at startup and goes off like the rest of the warning lights.
This is the 2006 2azfe 4 banger.
I believe its gotta be a diode pack shot. Is it difficult to replace the pack or should I just get a rebuilt one? The Haynes doesn't show how to disassemble the alt and replace anything but I should be able to do it. would I also need to replace the brushes at the same time?
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