Ignition - Starting - Passat - Volkswagen :: 2005 - No Cranking Intermittently
Jun 19, 2015
My daughter drives a 2005 Passat station wagon, has a small child and one on the way. She has had intermittent problems with the car just not wanting to crank. After sitting 15-20 minutes it will crank. But the wait and not knowing if it will crank is taxing me and her. Especially since she has another one on the way. She has taken it to a reputable mechanic. They kept it for 3 days, cranking it on and off without a problem, and told her they couldn't find anything.
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Quick truck stats: 2005 F150, 5.4L, 85,000 miles
The past few weeks my engine has been hesitating on some cranks before it would start. I figured it was due to the cold weather so didn't pay too much attention to it as it was also not throwing the check engine light.
Yesterday it didn't start at all after the several attempts of just cranking over and over. It still didn't seem to trip the check engine light but I pulled my scanner out anyways and it had the code p1237. I cleared it and the truck started right up. It even had no more issues the three times I started the truck after that.
Today, however, she is not starting again and not throwing any codes. Still cranking so I'm sure it's not the started or the battery. I'm going to have my husband pick up some starter fluid on his way home today to see if I can at least get a temporary start since I think it's the fuel pump, or possibly the fuel filter. It is cold again this morning so I'm wondering if the cold is somehow making this issue worse. Either way I'd like to fix it, since being stranded with a truck that doesn't start is not my idea of a way to pass the time.
What else it might be and how I might be able to diagnose it?
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Our Honda Odyssey will have an occasional delayed start where you turn the key but no sound occurs. All the lights come on like normal and the automatic doors can all close and open without any issues. Originally we didn't know that we could eventually get the car to start by turning and holding the key in the start position. It happens every couple days to couple weeks and without holding the key in the on position it will be anywhere from 30 minutes to 3 days before the car will start normally again. We've spent about $1,000 at the Honda dealer to have the battery, battery cables, starter, and starter relay replaced but we're still having the problem.
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Just curious on what it could be. I checked all fuses I did find some blown ones but I replaced them then the car worked and now it not cranking again. I checked the fuses I found another bad one i replaced it but still not cranking. All lights turn on, radio turns on. The fuses were check engine slots.
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I replaced the battery in my 07 3.6 4mo thinking it was in need due to the cranking time getting longer and longer recently. I began to notice this since the winter. I think it was somewhat there in the summer and fall also but when its super cold or the car has been run in a day or so it seems to be worse. Anyway replaced the battery and it didn't change much at all.
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B5 1.8T - A few weeks ago, I had some battery issues. Long story short, I ended up changing the battery. A few days later I began to have an issue with my coil/ICM. I decided it was probably a good time to do the delete and conversion to 2.0FSI coils. Before doing that, I used a generic hand held scanner to clear codes and see which would come back just to have a baseline for after the conversion.
At this point, car is not starting at all and I'm getting smell of fuel after cranking. I pull out plugs and see they are soaked with gas. I probably shouldn't have, but at this point I went and converted everything over, expecting that when I was done it would start....
Meanwhile, at this point the car cranks but doesn't start, and it seems as if fuel is dumping into the cylinders. Hooking up to an Elmscan5 and Scantool software, I get absolutely no codes (it IS connecting to ECU to some extent). Im not even able to get the cable to work at all with VCDS lite..
So I have NO codes and a car that turns over but wont start and smells strongly of fuel when I'm cranking it.. I am reluctant to buy anymore tools or software at this point; I'm thinking maybe I fried the ECM, or could it be as simple as throttle body adaptation?
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My 05 Jetta TDI is intermittently making a rubbing/grinding noise. Not in stop and go traffic but when I come to a stop at a stop sign, but only just before I come to a complete stop, not as soon as I hit the brakes. The shop that put the brakes on (about 18000 miles ago) looked at pads, rotors and pedal but said it's all fine. Could it be the booster, abs, or something else completely?
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2002 vw Passat GLX 4motion... Car has been driving fine with no issues. Then out of the blue it just won't start back up. Battery is 6 months old. And wouldn't start with a jump. I think it is a completely different issue. The power windows stopped working but other features do work like stereo power seats interior lights...Main problem is no lights on dash whatsoever. But when key turns from accessories position to starting position nothing happens. No clicking, no resistance between positions it is as if the ignition is just missing..?
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2005 F350 crew cab with 6.0 currently cranks but no start with a P2291 error code. Using scanguage 2 it shows icp 0, IPR 67.7, FICM 47.5 while cranking. Disconnected ICP and still no start. removed icp and hooked up air and I do not hear/see any signs of air leaking. When I disconnect the air it then whooshes out. About 2 months ago got a #1 cylinder contribution error code and changed out that injector and it has ran fine up until this issue.
Can this be a IPR? I am leading towards the HPOP, but as it costs a pretty penny would really love to make sure I tried every other avenue.
I have 197K on it, and 2 years ago did a EGR cooler delete. In May this year replaced the oil cooler, and then in August changed out the #1 fuel injector.
Oil cooler screen was broken. Cleaned the entire reservoir out. Could this just be a clogged IPR? or seeing the change while cranking an indication that it is working?
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My 2005 Kia, with 139K miles has developed an intermittent symptom of refusing to start. When this happens, the flashers come on and there is no sound from the starter....dead...nothing. I accidentally discovered a way to make it start when I got out and opened the trunk . After closing the trunk, the car started right up. Someone told me this may be related to my alarm system.
5 or 6 times, I have had it happen and solved it with the trunk action. Before this all started, the driver's door lock stopped depressing to lock the car, using the remote, and I have to manually lock it or use the key,3 repair shops, including my local Kia dealer tell me that they cannot diagnose the problem unless it is doing it, but due to the randomness of the issue I can't fix it. I love my Amanti and have kept it serviced and maintained, but am afraid it's time to replace it.
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I have a 1998 Passat turbo wagon. A couple of months ago, the engine began intermittently shuddering/stuttering. The car/steering wheel vibrate when accelerated. Acceleration is very slow. It may start when started, or just driving down the road. This can last a few minutes/block or several minutes/blocks. It disappears just as quickly as it begins. My garage ran engine analysis and nothing shows. Can't do anything till they can duplicate, and I can't cause it to happen. During the occurrence, tach is at 9000 and steady. I use high octane gas. Today, while stuttering the engine just quit twice while stopped. Car has 115,000 miles and otherwise is in excellent shape mechanically (regular oil changes, etc.). What's happening?
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I have a 2006 volkswagen passat 3.6 litre v6- have had this car about a year now, 60,000 miles, no problems until recently. Last week I started noticing that when I am driving, with my foot on the gas, it would intermittently act as if it was decelerating at a rapid pace( will drop gears, is NOT a coast)- even when I floored it!! As soon as it stops responding to the throttle I can floor it, nothing will happen, then let the gas peddle go- then reapply gas and it will act perfectly normal- no flooding, no nothing!! I have been able to keep it floored( while it is decelerating) for about 30 seconds, and it seems to make no difference.
The only other problem that I have recently noticed was that my cruise control was acting only intermittently as well. Oh, also while all this is happening it isn't throwing any check engine, or error lights. I have taken it to the dealer, and also to another specialty mechanic( with master certified technicians) and neither seem to find any problem with the vehicle, the only code that they said was found was one to the mass air flow??, but they weren't sure that was actually the problem, as, of course, they cannot seem to replicate my problem, even though it is now happening quite a lot. I am worried about driving my car now as it is quite a hazard when it decelerates rapidly, and to top it all off, we were supposed to leave for a 2,000 mile road trip in 10 days.
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I have a 1.8T 2001.5 Passat, Tiptronic with an Upsolute chip. I recently had the turbo replaced (under warranty for the same stock one). After the turbo reinstall, the car did this after driving it a while: I ran it hard and spooled up the turbo good a few times, and then parked the car. I would wait 45-60 minutes. When I tried to start the car it wouldn't start for like 8 seconds on the ignition, and then it would start but in EPC mode!
The first time this happened I panicked, drove it home (just to make sure I got home.) I then tried again and it started fine and no more EPC. Also, if I wait much longer like 3 or 4 hours, it never happens. Since the first time, this has happened like 10 times or more. But now, I just turn it off right after it starts in EPC, turn it again, and it works fine.
The first time it happened I got some kind of codes, but I didn't save them and cleared them. I figured since it happened again, I would get the codes again, but they're not there. I took it to the dealer, and of course, they can't duplicate it. The codes where like speed implausible or not there or something but I can't remember now.
The master mechanic told me to vapor lock was not possible because I had no carb, but I seem to remember that my '83 fuel injects 280ZX turbo had a special cooler fan to cool down the injectors in the event of vapor lock after the car shut down so I'm pretty sure this is possible with injectors. I mean, the explanation for that fan was so that if the remaining fuel in the injectors would get so hot after car shut down that it would vaporize the fuel and the pressure would lock up the injectors.
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When I run the heater on high to be directed through the dash and foot areas here in Wisconsin, I receive wonderful heat from the dash, but ice-cold air to the feet. What is going on? Do I have a clogged heater core or line? Or could this be an easy fix I could do myself?
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CEL came on. No performance issues or noises coming from the car this time around. I did notice that after parking and killing engine, there is a faint exhaust-type smell though. I took the car to my local Advance Auto Parts and had them hook the car up to their computer for a diagnostic. Two codes came up.
1: P0431, warm-up catalyst efficiency bank 2 below threshold pending
2: P0431, warm-up catalyst efficiency bank 2 below threshold confirmed
The AAP employee didn't have anything to add to the code readouts. I'm concerned that this is a catalytic converter issue, and if that's the case, a repair would likely cost more than I'm willing to put into the car at this point. It has just over 125K miles on it.
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I own a 2005 Volkswagon Passat, and took it to my mechanic yesterday to get a sticker and my new summer tires put on. When I picked up the car, the passenger side speaker is no longer working. About a month ago I took my car to a specialist to have an aftermarket radio put in for me that I got for my birthday so I can listen to my iPod. Why my passenger side speaker is not working anymore? Does it have anything to do with what my mechanic might have messed up when putting the new tires on?
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2005 VW passat... I bought this car used. I was told the front engine mount needed to be replaced. When it was replaced, the vibration began. The mechanic used an after market mount. He replaced it with a VW mount and also replaced the two side mounts for the transmission with VW mounts. The vibration was still there. I then took it to a VW dealer and they confirmed that the mounts were installed properly and could not identify the cause. I took it to a third mechanic who made some adjustments to the front mount and that reduced the vibration somewhat. After a few months, the vibration increased and I took the car to another VW dealer. He said the front and side mount needed to be replaced. That was done and still the vibration continued. What else could be going on to cause this problem. Carfax indicated no accidents or body repairs.
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I need to locate a 12volt circuit which is switched on with key in the run position, but isn't cut off while cranking. The on/off/on that I have going to my gauges now messes up their auto zero function. I have to turn the key to run, back off, and then start for them to read correctly. I have poked around in the fuse box on the driver side of the dash, but every position looks to be either on all of the time or cuts off when cranking the engine.
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Symptoms:
- Longer cranking time when turning on the ignition.
- Codes P2293 - Fuel Pump Regulator 2 Performance, P0087 and P053F.
- When I get on it, the rpm would shoot up while the speed is increasing at a very slow rate.
At first, I thought it's my clutch slipping, but after watching this youtube video (not mine), I think it's the fuel pump issue.
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This is my dad's car.... Today it began taking a while to start. It will turn over, just doesn't start. If you crank on it a while it will eventually start then runs perfectly fine. The problem occurs both cold and hot. I tried cycling the key 5 times, each time until you hear the fuel pump shut off then cycle again... it's starts just fine doing that. If you shut it off then try to restart, it'll just sit there and crank until you cycle the key a few times. There's no check engine light or OBD codes.
The fuel pump only runs for a second or two when you flip on the key, which tells me it's not having a problem coming up to pressure... and I'd imagine if I had a fuel pressure issue, it wouldn't be running smoothly and I'd have some hesitation, right?
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I have a 2002 Camry LE V6 with 189K on it and noticed that it takes several seconds (4 to 5 seconds) of cranking before the car starts. When the car was newer, it used to crank quicker.
Here is what I have done so far:
- Changed all spark plugs @ dealer using iridium type
- Always used Premium Fuel (Petro Canada 91 grade)
- Put in a bottle of injector cleaner (Redline Complete Fuel System Cleaner)
- Throttle Body has been cleaned about 20K ago
- Oil changes are Mobil 1 5W30 year round with Denso Filter
- Battery was replaced last year with an Optima Red Top and was tested a few months back to be in excellent working order.
What I have observed is that when the weather is VERY cold outside (i.e. -20), it seems to crank quicker, but if I keep my car parked in my garage overnight and start it, it takes several seconds. I have never had the car not start on me so that's a good thing.
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