Ignition - Saturn - Sl :: 1999 - Engine Misses / Low Power - Ignition Control Module?
Mar 27, 2011
My 1999 Saturn SL1 was running well. One evening, I started it up to go home, and it wasn't running well, and barely had power to make it the half mile home. It still starts up, but seems to miss in park and in gear. We tried spark plugs, wires, coils, catalytic converter, cylinder pressure, crankshaft position sensor, and fuel filter with no change in engine behavior. I think the EGR valve was looked at and passed. I hope it is not the fuel injectors as I put a cleaner in the fuel every so often. Could it be the Ignition Control Module, and is there a way to test the existing module? What else could it be, and how could I test it?
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Where is the ignition control module on a 95 buick regal custom 3.8L ....
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'99 Passat GLS - 79,000 miles - no mods ... Solid Check Engine Light was on for about 2 weeks...last time it was on, it was a fuel cap issue so I took my time with it. Well, all of the sudden on 4/14/03, on my way to work, (less than 5 minutes after starting the car) the car starts to ride hard (like going over grated pavement)...check engine light starts to blink! I pulled over. Eventually the light went back to solid.
Tonight (on 4th ignition sequence since picking up the car this AM) - the solid Check Engine Light came on again.
I had a friend who went through this with a 2000 Passat GLS - different dealer claimed it was the MAF, then the O2 sensors, then....she eventually took it to carmax to unload it.
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I have a 2000 Staturn LW2 auto, 6cyl. When I try to turn on the car, sometimes the engine does not turn, doesn't make a sound, nothing. When I move the steering wheel, it turns on fine, it has to be in a certain position. Does that mean, the ignition switch is faulty or is it the pin? Is there a test I can do?
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My Saturn 2000 LS1 has an intermittent start up problem. If the ignition doesn't complete engagement, the engine shuts down. After a 12-15 minute wait, I try to start again, it engages and starts. (I think it has a computer and the computer has to be re-set, thus the delay and re-start)
Nothing shows up on code except "security" but no fix.
I noticed using the remote caused this problem more often. So no longer use it. Also, got a new ignition key which worked. We think it has something to do with "security" as the light comes on....intermittently. Is there a replacement part for the "security" system? A fix.? Checking your site, no one else seems to have had this problem.
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There are two 12V power outlets inside my 2005 Saturn VUE. They always have power available, whether the car is on or not. I'd like to change that. Is there an easy (or somewhat easy) way to make it so that the outlets only deliver power when the ignition switch is in the on position?
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I have a 94 ranger with the 2.3l engine there is no spark at the ignition module (the front one both on the drivers side) that controls the plugs on the drivers side of the engine. I swapped with the module for the exhaust side but the problem stays at the same two plus and doesn't move with the module .. What can be the source of this problem? ECU?
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How to fix SES P0670?? I understand there's a whole procedure on checking fault.
P0670:GPCM Glow plug control module control line failure. Open/grounded circuit, open/shorted GPCM, failed PCM
But how did you resolve problem? replaced GPCM, found open circuit, short --if so where?-- or replaced with updated harness.
(4C3Z-12B568-AA connector upgrade kit as in picture)???
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2002 F350 7.3 PSD. 192k miles.
From my understanding, a CEL is supposed to illuminate each time you turn the ignition ON as part of normal startup procedure.
I figured the previous owner must have pulled out the bulb to hide the fact that the truck had a few "issues" before selling it, so today I pulled out the gauge cluster and it looked as if the CEL bulb was a tiny LED soldered directly into the gauge cluster itself. There were a few serviceable/removable bulbs for things like turn signal indicators, high-beam etc... but the CEL did not have a serviceable/removable bulb.
I've been driving this truck and working through it's "issues" and fixing things as I go, but it keeps throwing codes without the CEL illuminating. What's going on here?
I thought the check-engine-light was supposed to illuminate each time the ignition was turned on, and that it would come on each and every time the vehicle registered a fault code in the ECU/PCM.
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I have a Saturn Ion 2, 05. I will intermittently not start. I put the key in the ignition, power comes on, turn the key, it clicks a couple of times and then everything turns off. The key is then locked in the ignition. It is a new key. My old key looked chewed up. The only way to get the care to release my key is to open the hood and wait a few minutes and then shut the hood. Power will come back on and it will release my key. I used to be able to start it after that but now it seems like it is becoming more and more difficult to start it. I have read about a loose fuse box under the hood, replacing battery, replacing ignition switch and resetting passcode. Im not sure where to start first. I do not have the extended warranty and am on a tight budget.
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The key will not turn to off, stuck in acc. I have no power to the windows, sunroof, seat and seat heaters, and no brake lights, and the mirrors have no power either. I took the car to the local GM dealer who told me the ignition was not in any recall and found that the Body Control Module was bad and needed replacement.
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Do I need to do anything other than disconnect the battery to disable the airbags on this car so I can replace the ignition lock?
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My Saturn 2000 LS1 has an intermittent start up problem. If the ignition doesn't complete engagement, the engine shuts down. After a 12=15 minute wait, I try to start again and it engages and starts. (I think the computer has to be re-set, thus the delay)
Nothing shows up on code except "security" but no fix.
I noticed using the remote caused this problem more often. So no longer use it. Also, got a new ignition key which worked. We think it has something to do with "security" as the light comes on....intermittently. Is there a replacement part for the "security" system? Checking your site, no one else seems to have had this problem.
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OK, what does a glow plug control module do? The short bus I got has one on it. It looks like it fits right into the circuit without much, if any, modification. I got one with my short bus and am curious if it would be something worth adding to my pickup. So...what does it do and could I/should I install it?
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Went to start 'er up, key spun forwards, power came on but no start, no click, nada. Turn key back and power stayed on, back forward and no resistance whatsoever power stayed on. Took screwdriver, jumped starter relay and viola away we go. Get home, get cylinder out of hole and the tip is broken off down in the column. BTW, had to disconnect batteries to shut it off. I drilled hole in the tip still in the column, insert screw and no come out. Must need to be turned somehow first I'm thinking.
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A couple of days ago I removed the key from my 1999 Toyota Tacoma (175,000 mies)and the power stayed on. Specifically, the ignition was in the proper "Lock" position when the key was removed, but the radio continued to play and the dash clock stayed lit.
Normally, prior to this change, the radio turns off with the ignition being rotated to "Lock" and the clock LED turns off. There hasn't been any abnormal force applied to the ignition. As well, I haven't noticed any other electrical issues, but it still is operating in this abnormal way.
After 175,000 miles worth of starts has my ignition switch worn to the point of "shorting on"?
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So; I bought my 07 f350 6.0 the other day. I have a light on that sends a code for glow plug control module, but the truck starts fine, the same in cold temperatures as warm, so far nothing below 32 degrees though. I dont have the code # at the moment, but will update when i get the scanner back. Why this module is throwing a red flag?
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I seem to have a glitch in my ignition switch box or column. Most likely in the column itself. Whats the recommended course of action here? Contact cleaner and then white lithium grease in the column? Can WLG be used on the ignition switch box itself, that's bolted under the column?
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To install my FLIR system I need a 12V power supply, ideally switched with my Gen III's ignition switch. Where in the engine compartment can I find that?
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Had been having problems with ignition on my 1995 Jeep Cherokee Sport. Key was loose and eventually wouldn't stay in "on" position without being jerry-rigged (don't ask). Replaced the Ignition Control Switch and the Key cylinder today and car won't start. Checked fuses and they look fine.
Used this video as a guide and it installed perfectly. [URL] ......
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So I have a replacement steering column for my truck and need to swap out lock cylinders. My question is; since there is NO key, is there any way to avoid drilling out retaining pin. If I did drill it out am I entirely screwed'?
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