Ignition - Mitsubishi - Mirage - Sparkplugs :: Cranks Over But Will Not Start
Nov 24, 2011
Details. I was driving my car yesterday. It stop as i gave it fuel to go around a corner.Its a 95 mitsubishi mirage s manufacture october 94 in japan. Its a manual turned the key. Nothing but cranking and flooding. My friend came to take a look at it. no spark.I smelled fuel and have still almost half a tank which mean its pumping but no spark came from the ignition wire.I have replaced the rotor and am waiting on new ignition wires and distro cap. When i took off the distro cap I didn't see any visible cracks.
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This car has the 1.5 liter 12 valve motor and a five speed transmission. Ran pretty good until a few days ago when it died. the next day it started up and ran ok for about a half a block and then I had to pump the gas to keep it running. I had bought gas at a dinky budget station that I had never been to before so I suspected bad gas and I put in a new fuel filter which did not work. I then put some Seafoam additive in. After I got it started I revved it up a bit to try and clear things out and then let it idle for an hour or so.
The engine smoothed right out and didn't idle rough but did not start after I turned it off. I pulled a plug wire, put in a bolt and tested for spark against the valve cover. Not even a weak spark, nothing. I looked for the coil but there is no coil and I am told that the coil is in the distributor. I also saw a reference online about the crankshaft sensor possibly being the culprit. What a crankshaft sensor looks like and the engine compartment is so crowded with hoses, wires and all kinds of things it is real hard to see anything from above.
I am wondering if the coil is bad do you have to get a whole distributor ( I was quoted a price of $269 for a new one) or can you take it out of the distributor and replace just the coil.I have a brand new 154 piece Craftsman tool kit, but I am 62 years old and back when I learned how to work on cars it was a lot simpler. Now when I open a hood about half the stuff there is unfamiliar to me. My other vehicle (Chevy C20 van) is not running that great and gets awful gas mileage. The battery is new and I have never ran out of gas with this car, so they are not suspect.
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91 Mirage starts and runs ok but usually will not start again after warming up. What are the possible causes and how do I check to eliminate dead end cures.
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Got a 1997 Mitsubishi Mirage with this code 0420. Only had car a while. It has always had a hesitation accompanied by the CEL coming on and then going out. Might happen twice a trip and then not occur for weeks. Previous owner said they failed an emissions because he cleared a set code(not told to me). The car dives fine and gas mileage seems to be fine. Car does use about a quart of oil over a 3000 mile oil change. It also has/had a rattle similar to an exhaust baffle...the rattle is not an every trip occurrence either.
Had Autozone check for code and was told catalytic converter needed to be replaced. There are no emissions in my state but I would like to know any opinions on my problem and any issues with driving car without repair. I think I want to clear code by disconnecting battery cable and see if it returns but not that would be a good idea. Also considered buying a scan tool with live data to see if there is another issue that might not involve replacing the catalytic converter. Previous owner also mentioned a hissing when removing gas cap and he bought another cap but the I still notice the hissing.
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My 2000 Mirage (with 145,000 miles) no longer stays in 2nd gear. Due to the age of the car I do not want to replace the transmission but I would like to get a few more months out of the car. For now I am just shifting from 1st to 3rd. My questions are;
(1) Is there anything I can do short or replacing the transmission to get 2nd gear back,
(2) if I don't do anything to fix the transmission is there any reason I should not continue skipping 2nd gear until something else breaks and
(3) is there anything I should do like flush the transmission to try to extend its life?
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I can not resolve a rough idle in gear when engine is warm problem. I've replaced plugs, wires, mounts, isc, o2 sensor, ecu, have no codes.
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I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Mirage. I've been having issues with judder. I first mentioned it to a mechanic late last spring, but they said the rotors and pads were fine, so I let it be, and the judder got gradually worse, until I brought it in again a couple weeks ago and got new front rotors (the rotors were warped at that point, and barely within spec). But as I left the mechanic's, I realized that the judder had not gone away, it had just changed, and become more pronounced. (Yes, I should have gone right back in to the mechanic, but I was peeved that the problem was still there, and sleep deprived from working 3rd shift.)
The judder is most noticeable when I am stopping in town. The car behaves as if I'm stomping on the brake repeatedly; the brakes are grabbing and releasing, grabbing and releasing. Until the past week, this has meant that my head bobs front and back a bit as I stop. In the past week though, it feels like there is a tiny bit of side-to-side movement developing, too. The steering wheel does not shake, and I can't feel anything unusual in the pedal.(Also, if it matters, the tires were rotated about a week before the rotors were replaced.)
What could the issue be here? Should I take it back to the shop and ask them to undo and redo the lug nuts by hand, since I've read that overtightening, or tightening in the wrong order, could be an issue? Should I ask them if they test run-out when they install rotors? Should I go to a different mechanic? The mechanic I went to is a local large operation with a decent reputation, but... I've gotten some conflicting information from them, depending on who I talk to. Also, should the pads have been replaced along with the rotors? They're at around 70%.
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I'm sure this popping sound coming from both sides of the front wheels is a serious problem because it happened to my dad's car before. The only thing is that i want to fix it before it gets serious and pops off one day while I'm driving.When ever i turn, about 95% if not 100% of the time, i would hear the popping sound from one side of the front wheel. I want to know how much it usually takes to fix and if its possible for me to fix it myself with almost no knowledge of fixing cars.
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My 2015 Mitsubishi Mirage had a strange little incident the other day. I have posted this on the forum for these cars and as far as the people on that site know, I am the first to experience this exact issue. I also called the Mitsubishi dealer and they said this would be under warranty if it happened again. They said they had never experienced an issue like this in the Mirage either. Whatever this is isn't a common problem which is good and bad.
I was pulling out into traffic and then there was a sudden momentary loss of power and then power returned. The check engine and traction control light were on. I pulled into another parking lot and when I came out, the check engine light was on but the traction light was off. I put the car in reverse to backup and it stalled. There was an Autozone across the street so I took it over there and had the code read. The P0068 appears to be a mismatch in input from the MAF, MAP, or TPS sensors.
I was low on gas but not that low so I went across the street to a gas station. While the car was filling up opened the hood and unplugged/replugged any wiring connectors going to sensors around the intake and manifold, wondering if it was a bad connection. The car took about 7.5 gallon of gas. These hold like 9.2 gallons or something.
I got in and started the car and there was no more check engine light. I hadn't cleared the code so that wasn't why. Anyway, I have been driving the car like normal the past 3 days with no repeats of the behavior.
I figure that a connector might have been loose from the factory or after the repairs from when I hit a deer a few months back. The car sustained front end and side damage so maybe something wasn't plugged in snug enough after the work.
I guess I could have had a bad tank of gas and was starting to suck moisture or something. I would have thought that would have triggered a misfire or something so my guess leans to a loose connection. The CEL went away immediately when I started the car. The new tank of gas would have at least taken several seconds to have any impact.
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I'm writing to ask a question about my 1997 Mitsubishi Mirage. It has 98,000 miles on it. I had my transmission fluid changed at my regular shop about six months (2,000 miles) ago.
For the past six to eight weeks, I have noticed that a light grinding sound comes from the bottom of the engine compartment. This sound happens briefly, for about 0.5 to 1.0 seconds, when the transmission shifts from first to second. I can try to find previous maintenance records if it's relevant.
My question is, is it worth it to change the transmission fluid again? Is it possible that will take care of this? Are there any homeopathic cures?
I will note that the owner's manual calls for "Mitsubishi Diamond ATF SP-II." The shop didn't have it, so I recommended a Valvoline ATF designed for imports, based on some searching?
So a second question is, would it be worth it to take this to the Mitsubishi dealer to get the official fluid?
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I just bought a used automatic MM with 137k miles. Engine and interior super clean. I did test drive and it seemed to pull back a bit and rev harder when I was starting out from a stop or in intermittent traffic where I was slowing down and speeding up with flow of traffic. It also does it worse on hills. The guy from the car lot said it was the way I was driving the car...hmmmm...I'm not a lead foot. I let the car ease into higher speeds, I don't punch it. Ever.
Yesterday I took a longer drive and had other people in the car with me who also noticed the rough transitions between low gears and asked if that was "normal." NOT being a car mechanic I get alarmed when others are pointing something I too thought could be at issue. I bought the car "as is" after doing some online research and finding out that these car's even at this age get 4.5 to 5 star ratings from people who have them.
I took it to Auto Zone and they put the little code reader on the car but no codes came up. His suggestion was to have all the fluids changed in case someone put the wrong weight of transmission fluid in the car. I did check the fluid at the car lot and it was bright pink and at correct levels. Not sure that's what it is. He also suggested the possibility of it being a "shift cellinoid"?
I don't know what that is but he said it shouldn't be expensive to fix. He also suggested getting the transmission serviced to see if that might solve it. Someone else suggested "clean the IAC hole and throttle plate with choke cleaner..." don't know what that is? Someone else said to consider a vacuum leak in the fresh air tube between the air filter box and the throttle body...these are all just guesses.
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My son had the starter replaced on his 97 Eclipse a couple of months ago and ever since then it seems to be more difficult to start if it has been sitting for a few hours or more. It cranks for 5 or 10 seconds before it catches. If the car is warm or has only sat for an hour or two it starts fine. The battery has been tested and is fine. The fuel filter was replaced about 30k miles ago. He also thinks he has one injector that is performing below par. It idles a tad rough. A friend said to clean or change the air filter and change the fuel filter. He had injector cleaner put in it the other day but that has not solved the starting issue at all yet. Don't know if the injector issue is causing the poor starting or not.
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My 2.0L Jetta had an intermittent misfire, only at idle. I took it in to the shop, and they fixed a vacuum leak and replaced the plugs. The car drove home fine, but the next morning it was misfiring at all speeds. When it got back to the shop, they said that the coil pack was bad. I wonder if they might have done something to cause the pack to fail, since it seemed to be working fine before I took it in. Their explanation was that the coil had become accustomed to sparking at an adjusted (more powerful) setting to account for the vacuum leak, and when it tried to go back to the factory setting, it quit working. Also, all of the stress from running at a higher output wore it out.
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I have a 2008 Kia Rio, 4 Cyl 1.6L, and recently the check engine light came on and the car started running real rough after getting the timing belt replaced at firestone. I took it back to Firestone and they said that 2 of the cylinders where misfiring and i need to replace the ignition coils and the corresponding spark plugs, but that i also want to get a catalytic converter cleaning or flush or something like that because of the unburnt gas that was running into the converter. Is this true? They want to charge me another 100.00 for the cleaning on top of the 300.00 to replace the 2 ignition coils and spark plugs, should i get this done or can i clean it out myself?
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I own a 1998 Mitsubishi Mirage with about 190,000 miles on it. The engine light has started coming on and I get three codes:
P0170 Fuel Trim Bank 1P0136 Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire
Read more: [URL] ....
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2001 Buick regal started and ran left town for 10 days came back cranks but wont start I don't here fuel pump engage when I turn on ignition...
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I have a 2005 SE 3.3L engine with 115000Miles,
When you turn the ignition key , you have to wait for it to crank 6-7 times before it starts. whether engine is cold or warm it makes no difference.
I was wondering how your engines ( 3.3Ls) behave, does that start immediately after 1-2 cranks, or it is normal for this type of engines to take 6-7 turns ?
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I have a 2008 Kia Sportage LX. Lately, when I have put my key in the ignition and start to turn it, it starts automatically. On my ignition I have Off, Lock, ACC, On, and Start. When I start to turn my key to Lock position my car cranks up automatically.
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I just changed the alternator this morning. Hook battery back up now cranks wont start no security light flashing no security light blinking at all. When turn ignition over gauges do not swipe don't remember if they normally did or not but now they do not swipe as in speedometer and RPMs. I've also been having trouble with the no windows no radio. Just driving down the road and radio cuts out and power windows hear a click under the dash radio coming back on Windows work again research and see if it's in the battery save circuit inside the dash cluster wondering if this is causing no start now.
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From a cold start, my '89 Civic starts and runs just fine - on a short trip. If I shut it off for 15 minutes and let it sit, then try to restart it, it cranks REALLY slow, misfires and won't start (like the cylinders are fighting each other). The battery's brand new, with plenty of juice. So the next time it happened, I disconnected all 4 plug wires - it cranked nice and fast, no resistance. This leads me to believe that the ignition timing is getting messed up once the engine warms up. I think the coil is fine, because the plugs are firing when the wires are connected. I'm thinking it could be a bad sensor that acts up when it gets warm. My prime suspect is the TDC/Crank Sensor. Does the TDC/Crank Sensor can fail when warm?
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1090 Lumina Sedan 3.1 ... First time it had starting issues Recently. About 2 months ago my lumina's engine would die when i pushed down on the gas pedal. After 2 days of trying to fix the issue it wouldn't start at all, i replaced:
TPS
MAP/MAT Sensor
Fuel Filter
None of these worked so i sent it to a shop, they replaced:
ECM
Multi Port Injection (All 6 Injectors)
TPS (even though i had just installed a new one)
Serpentine Belt (it broke when they were test driving it after the Repairs were done)
The car would not start even after they replaced the first 3 parts on the list, so the tech looked further at the engine and found frayed and open wires, on the bottom near the front side passenger door, he repaired these wires and the car started and ran.
The only issues i had after their repair was a rough idle while braking and/or when i was at a full stop, the rough idle went away after a few days of driving.
((Current No Start Issues))A week ago i had what i am guessing is a few electrical issues: Speedometer Twitching and then dropping to nothing while driving, temp and oil light popping on and then off, when the engine was at a good temp and the oil was fine when i had checked the day before.
I went out a few days ago to run some errands and on my way home i turned a corner and when i put my foot down on the gas pedal the car just went "Put-put Put-put" every time i pushed the pedal more than a 1/4 of the way down. i reach a stop sign and being i was in the middle of nowhere and no one was coming down the road for miles i braked slightly and went past the stop sign halfway through my turn the engine died and i coasted to the side of the road, i got out and checked the engine, i had coolant not a whole lot but enough, then i checked the oil and it as far as i could tell it was at the add line even though it had been fine a few days before,(there has been no indication of an oil leak).
I rechecked the coolant and it looked like there was more in there than there was a few minutes before but i couldn't be sure, i was able to get the car restarted and headed towards home (about 2 miles away).at this point i was able to get the car going at around 25-45mph on the next sharp corner i turned the engine died again so i restarted and kept going, it died once more right before i reached the driveway but i was able to coast the rest of the way, once i parked the car i turned the engine off and tried to restart it a minute later and it started again so i left it be and called someone to bring me some oil, when they got to me with the oil i put some in and and it would not start at all.
- I checked one of the spark plug wires and it is not getting any spark.
- The ground terminal on the battery seems to be stripped
- The battery / altenator / starter---- All read to be between 12.15 and 12.36 volts
- The head lights, instrument panel and such still turn on properly.
I'm at a loss here, it was just in the shop 20 days ago and now it isn't working again. I would prefer to not have to put it back in the shop, if it might be something i could repair from home.
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