Ignition - Jetta - Volkswagen :: 2001 - At Start Up After Off For Couple Of Hours Gas And Brake Pedal Won't Work
Jan 21, 2014
A couple weeks ago I bought a 2001 VW Jetta with 176,000 miles on it. The car runs well, but for the past four days this has been happening:
Every time I start the car, after it's been off for a couple hours, neither the gas nor the brake pedal work. I can push them down, and I hear the car trying to respond but it doesn't do anything (well, it does move a little, as though it's in neutral). Then, when I turn the car off and then turn it immediately back on, both pedals are back to normal and work perfectly fine again. It's happened every time I start the car for the past few days.
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Brand new 2012 jetta TDI (less than 1,000 miles). Standard, 6 speed. A few weeks ago, I went to brake, and my pedal went all the way to the floor (no resistance) w/o slowing me down. I let the pedal out (after freaking out a little), and when i went to try again, the brakes kicked in. I was a block from home, so I continued to drive, pulled in to park, and it happened again. Left foot on the clutch, right foot went to brake and went all the way to the floor. Took it straight to the dealer. They checked it, drove it, checked it again. Couldn't find anything.
I've driven about 500 miles since, with no incident. Then, it happened again. My brake pedal literally touched the floor, and didn't even slow me down. I tried pumping. Nothing. Took the pedal all the way out, and then recompressed- worked fine. Drove it to the dealer, happened one more time on the way (had to pull the ebrake to stop).
They have had it 2 days and still can't find anything wrong. I've been driving VWs since I got my license. I've never even owned an automatic, so the whole "maybe you were pressing the clutch instead of the brake" comment is out of the question. What is going on?!
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2005 VW Jetta: The brake indicator light came on in the dashboard. I took the car to the dealer, and they replaced the front brake pads. Indicator light is now off, but I drove away with a new problem: The pedal fades as it comes to a stop. I have to push almost to the floor to stay still. Sometimes the car drifts forward if I'm not consciously pushing down harder than usual on the pedal. The dealer took the car back for a few days, replaced the master cylinder, bled the lines and did not charge me. But the problem is still there. What went wrong?
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Automatic car was "parked", turned off.
Key removed, though it was not in P.
Emergency brake works and applied, but may not have been applied all the way.
Rolled back across the low low grade parking lot and our white car bumped a ... black porsche! Doesn't appear to be any damage other than paint smudge/transfer from the bumper.
Normal safety feature where the car needs to be in Park before the Key comes out isn't working properly.
Is this something I can get the MFG to pay for? It's not under warranty. It's under a 3 yr power train warranty, but pretty sure at best this is a only related to a transmission issue, not directly a transmission issue. No recalls as of now for this on my vehicle.
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2001 VW Jetta wagon will randomly not start it up. Jumping it or popping the clutch doesn't get it going. I've made sure there is nothing draining the power and the battery is new and clean. My mechanic has run diagnostics on it to check the codes and kept it for a week to use it when he ran errands; it never gave him any problems. He wants me to give him a call if I get stuck again so he can hear what it sounds like when it won't start. A week later, it wouldn't start for me(of course it was on a Sunday). I waited an hour and it started. It does this whether it's been sitting over night or after using it for an hour or two. I'll go somewhere, park,and return 10 minutes later and it makes that sound like there isn't quite enough power to start (starter is new).Now it does have over 382,000 original miles on original motor, timing belt replaced a few months ago and the mechanic said it's clean and strong. I would love to know what to do other then getting rid of it!
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From the first day i bought this car i had a strange noise coming under the hood. Every time i leave my car for at least 2 hours parked and then started, when i do a few meters i hear a noise like a hydraulic valve comes in place and my brake pedal does a small movement. After that everything is normal.
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My mom's Jetta has had a squishy brake pedal ever since we got it a couple years ago. I figured it went down so far because the brake pads were wearing thin.
After having just replaced the pads and rotors, I flushed the fluid with the Motive power bleeder. I cycled the ABS pump with VCDS, then hooked the power bleeder back up and opened all four corners again until fluid was flowing clean and bubble-free.
Everything went well with the change, but the brake pedal never got as firm as I expected it to. Before the change, the pedal felt like it would get dangerously close to the floor. The brakes always worked, but the pedal hit about 60-70 percent of its travel before the car started slowing down. After the change, it has improved slightly, but it feels like its going about half-way before the brakes start working.
The pedal doesn't drop when you hold pressure on it like I figured it would if the master cylinder was leaking. Is this normal for a mk4 or does it sound like there's something wrong?
Car is a late 2001 2.0 Jetta Automatic with the MK60 ABS pump.
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Just got this car it's 2001 gti turbo. The guy said that the key fob was back. But I changed the starter and still no luck. It had all new plugs and I went to check for spark and there was no spark or fuel. So then I got a new crankshaft sensor and still no luck. I haven't gotten the chance to check for spark yet. And now those lights and beeping keep happening even without the key In the ignition. Can it be the ignition switch or something worse?
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My wife has a 2003 elantra. When it is started cold the gas pedal is REALLY sluggish for a couple of seconds but after that it works fine. I thinking it may need a transmission fluid flush but I'm not sure.
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2001 2.0
251,xxx km
Noticed here lately that my brake pedal is depressing further, and can go to the floor if I press it hard enough.
If I press the pedal quick (panic stop) it engages quickly and in the correct spot (I can feel the front tires almost lock up) then it depresses more almost to the floor. the brakes still work perfect however.
What should I try first?
I use my hand brake, and have pumped the brakes and pulled the handbrake to set the rear pistons in place.
I replaced the two rear calipers about a year and a half ago and bled them obviously. Have not bled the front brakes and will do that, but was just looking for more insight, and common problems, vacuum leak, etc.
Reservoir is full as well, and no brake line leaks that I know of.
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My wife's 2011 Volkswagen Jetta (2.0 I believe) is misfiring again. We took it to the dealership about 6 months ago and they said that the ignition coil had gone bad. They replace the ignition coil and said that the plugs needed changing as well. I went to Auto Zone and got some decent plugs and changed them myself at home without much problem. It seemed to work with the problem (although it didn't seem to completely fix it) for a while, but it just recently went back to misfiring. The current symptom is that it seems to misfire when the car is warming up, but misfires less when the car is warm.
The dealership says that the plugs that we got were not recommended by the dealer (they recommended Bosch) and that they need to be replaced. I think this is BS and it is not going to fix the problem.
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My 2.0L Jetta had an intermittent misfire, only at idle. I took it in to the shop, and they fixed a vacuum leak and replaced the plugs. The car drove home fine, but the next morning it was misfiring at all speeds. When it got back to the shop, they said that the coil pack was bad. I wonder if they might have done something to cause the pack to fail, since it seemed to be working fine before I took it in. Their explanation was that the coil had become accustomed to sparking at an adjusted (more powerful) setting to account for the vacuum leak, and when it tried to go back to the factory setting, it quit working. Also, all of the stress from running at a higher output wore it out.
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Brake lights do not work on my 1997 vw cabrio fuse lights and break switch are good.....
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My wife and I bought two 2014 Jetta TDI's. What a great Turbo engine. We like a lot about the cars. There is a problem with both cars, the same problem. The voice command doesn't work well at all. When I say call Volkswagen, for example, it doesn't understand the command. On rare occasion, it will recognize a name.The dealer put in a new voice module, but it still doesn't work. My wife's car has the same issue.
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In the first instance of this problem, my brake pedal was stuck to the floor. By pumping it a few times, it gradually released and rose to the proper level. Brakes then seemed to work fine for a couple of weeks, until I reversed out of a parking space, but could not brake the car when I shifted into drive. I pushed the brake pedal to the floor, but could not stop until I ran over two large boulders that, stopped the car short of a big tree.
My mechanic doesn't know exactly what went wrong, but is replacing the brake cylinder. I fervently hope that fixes the problem! What could it be?
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2002 vw Passat GLX 4motion... Car has been driving fine with no issues. Then out of the blue it just won't start back up. Battery is 6 months old. And wouldn't start with a jump. I think it is a completely different issue. The power windows stopped working but other features do work like stereo power seats interior lights...Main problem is no lights on dash whatsoever. But when key turns from accessories position to starting position nothing happens. No clicking, no resistance between positions it is as if the ignition is just missing..?
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Our check engine light came on earlier this summer. A local mechanic who supposedly specializes in German autos said there was a vapor lock leak in the fuel system. He replace our gas cap and reset the warning light. A few weeks later the light came back on. This time he replaced fuel pump and reset the warning light. This created a new problem: when you turn on the ignition it now takes 20-30 seconds before the car ignites/starts. The engine turns over but takes that long to start. If you turn the ignition on and then quickly turn if off and then on again it starts immediately.
A few weeks went by and the check engine light came on again. I took it to a new mechanic. He said the fuel pump appeared to be fine and replaced a fuel line sensor. This didn't work at all as far as I can tell.
Now the check engine light is back on and we still have the prolonged starting problem. Now that the temps are cold the starting issue does seem a little better.
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I had to drop my fuel tank and as a result, I replaced the fuel lines from the underbed filter to the tank. After replacing everything, I purged, purged, and purged some more. With much difficulty I was able to get the truck running and it ran good. But, I have trouble restarting the truck anytime I let it sit for a couple of hours. It cranks and cranks and eventually fires, but with much difficulty.
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So I have a 2005 GTI 1.8t and I just recently had a new fuel filter/fuel pump installed.. Now ever morning when I go to start it it starts really hard.. once it's starts it runs fine it just takes me a couple cranks to get it started....
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The car has 96xxx miles and doesn't like to turn over when it sits for more than about 6 hours, it is worse the colder it is. Once the car starts it will fire right up every time you start it as long as it doesn't sit for more than about 6 hours. It doesn't make any strange noises while starting just the normal vum vum vum vum VUM vum vum VUM VUM vum vum etc until it finally catches. I should also add that upon starting (and this only happens when it hard starts) it will idle at around 1500rpm while in the park. The shift to reverse it drops to about 1000, shift back to park it goes back to 1500. I have already replaced the fuel pump, 02 sensors, MAF, and the camshaft position sensor. I took it to a shop once, they could not figure out the problem but claimed it was a common problem with Nissans of that period and if I primed the fuel pump by turning the key to the ACC point for about a minute and pressing the gas a little bit when I tried to start it that it would start. That does not work.
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I recently bought a 2012 VW Jetta. My first German car, it has been both a really fun learning experience and (more often than not) a nightmare to work on. That said, I still am enjoying the car and intend to keep it for a while.
This past weekend, I took the factory wheels off to sand and paint them black, because I thought the car would look nice with black rims (and it was a lot cheaper than buying a whole new set!) Everything went well, I put them back on, and the car drives perfectly. Except it doesn't.
Now, I've got a noise coming from the rear passenger side wheel well. I'm not sure exactly what is causing the noise, and while I fancy myself a halfway decent Saturday Mechanic; I cannot diagnose or repair this problem myself. I have little to no experience working on drum brakes. All I know is this: the lug nuts are torqued, and the dealer has taken apart the brakes and informed me that nothing is broken or out of place. This cannot be the case - SOMETHING is making that clicking noise!
More information: it sounds JUST like the clicking noise you get when you forget to tighten your lug nuts and go for a drive, the rim moving around on the wheel studs and that noise it makes- this sounds exactly the same... The "click click click click" sound increases tempo as vehicle speed increases, and in volume when you very lightly apply the brakes and turn either direction. I don't know what to do, as usual, the closer I get to the dealership's service manager, the noise fades away.
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