Blower, seats, locks, blinkers stopped simultaneously, abs and airbag light came on. The internet suggested it was the ignition switch, I changed it to no avail. The horn, wipers, 4-way flashers, headlights, taillights, and brake lights all work. Is my wife correct in suggesting we replace this 140,000 mile pile of rust?
View 5 Replies'98 Dodge Caravan occasionally loses power and dies while driving. No power steering or brakes. Have changed alternator, battery, starter, computer, and starter switch. What else could it be?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2002 excursion XLT. it does not have power seats for the driver or passenger. I came across some power seats from a 2002 limited. what I need to know is, can I remove the non power seats and put in the seats from the limited, is the wiring already in the XLT model to just plug it in, or im I going to have to do some rewiring.
View 2 Replies2005 Grand Caravan with 160K miles. Automatic door locks started not working two years ago and needed to be reset by either disconnecting the battery or pulling the fuse. First this would happen every six months, then about every three months, then monthly, and now about every two weeks. Is there anyway to avoid having to reset the system every two weeks?
View 3 RepliesHaving problems with their door locks attempting to activate when turning the ignition key? If so, how can I correct it or make repairs.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1993 F150 that I have been working on. I have a set of complete doors off of a 1989 with Power Windows and locks hung on the truck and need to figure out how to power them up. Looking for access to a wiring diagram that will identify the colors of the wires in the doors. I don't care about the auto down and all of that ... not going to try and convert the whole truck with comp and all ... just want to make these function.
View 14 Repliesa buddy of mine has a 12 F250 that he bought new and is ready to add power locks and windows. I know we can get some aftermarket kits for both but he wants to use the factory door panels and switches from a power setup. I am sure we could use the factory window regulators and panels and just use and aftermarket wiring and flush mount switches. I had figured the wiring might be in the jambs but not in the doors, but when I pulled the trim back, we didn't find any extra wiring going to the rear doors, its a crew.
View 1 Replies1997 Ford Expedition 4x4
When I push the switch for the drivers window I can hear the relay in the fuse block make a click but window doesn't move. If I push the switch for any other window (on the drivers door or any other door) no click at the relay and no window movement. I've swapped the relay with other relays in the fuse block but nothing changed.
I've tested the driver side window motor by running 12 volts directly and the motor works fine. When I press the PDL switch I hear a buzzing sound coming from the passenger floor area behind the glove box but the locks do not go up or down. I started the truck and when I put it in gear I can hear the PW relay in the fuse block clicking repeatedly. Put the truck in Park & the clicking stops.
I was told (on another forum) that the problem is most likely my GEM module. Bought a used 1 on eBay and installed it today but nothing changed.
My landlord's daughter is having some electrical problems with her car, and we're trying to troubleshoot it ourselves. It's a 2006 chevy cobalt with 66,000 miles on it. Here are the issues: 1) The radio's display does not work (you can't see the time or the station). The radio's volume, on/off switch, AM/FM control, and tuner don't work. So, basically, it's stuck on one AM station and she can't do anything about it. 2) Her power locks occasionally lock / unlock themselves when the vehicle is running. 3) This is the most important safety issue right now - there's no power to the pump for her windshield washing fluid. What could it be? Fuses? Wiring? Something else?
View 4 RepliesThere is a clicking sound (about once per second) in the front of the engine compartment of my 2002 Dodge Dakota (2WD, quad cab, manual, no alarm, no electric windows, locks, mirrors, etc.) when the vehicle is off (ignition in the off position - with or without key in ignition). It stops if the battery is disconnected, if the key is in the run position, or if the key is in the position that allows one to use power while the vehicle is off. The interior lights and headlights will flash in sync with the clicking sound if they are on as well. The chime that lets you know that the key is in the ingnition with the door open will miss a beat with the click also. The amps running through the circuit (no lights on) jump up from 27 milliamps to 39 milliamps with the click sound. A possibly related issue is that the headlights no longer stay on for the 30 seconds or so that they used to when I turn off and exit the truck after having driven with the lights on. The clicking and light flashing continued even though I removed each fuse and relay in the box under the hood and the one next to the driver door (the lights stopped when their fuse was removed, but the clicking continued).
View 3 Replieshere its is i have a 1986 ford f350 6.9 aftermarket turbo set up i was driving it then i went over rail road tracks lost all power to fuse box no headlights no interior lights no ignition power batteries are good so now when i turn key nothing lights up it just killed my whole truck....
View 7 RepliesSo I needed some electrical parts for the 2000 Caravan mostly the power door actuator is noisy and one vent window motor is shot. So I went to the local pull a part, paid $2 admission fee. Found my parts but no way to test them. Went to pay for them, they wanted to charge me $25 for each part, were not willing to have it returned in case it did not work, and did not have a battery for me to test them either. Is this the norm or should I have gone there with my oldest T-shirt? These parts sell probably for $45 to $80 new/on-line. I was trying to save money but felt if I end up buying the part again, it is essentially worse than just buying new.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Dodge Caravan. When I put my turn signal on all the dashboard lights fail and the gauges drop as if the van was powered off. After a couple seconds they come back on, then the seat belt reminder ding goes off. I've tried things like replacing fuses, checking the headlights and seeing if a wire or bulb was the issue. Found some wiring in the passenger side seat belt panel and thought that may have been the issue. The blinkers were working for a bit.
Recently they began failing again and so I've just messed with any wire I could find; maybe there's a poor connection or something. I saw some other discussion posted on blinkers and my hazard lights seem to have something to do with this; occasionally if I press the hazard lights the gauges will react slightly; they jump up a little. It's a hit and miss; sometimes they work and sometimes they don't. I feel very unsafe and would hate to be responsible for someone rear-ending me because my blinkers didn't work.
Let me start by saying electrical is something I really have no knowledge of....(never used any kind of an elec meter and don't have one) simple, Pos-grd and fuse, NP. I really don't want to fry something in these expensive new seats w/my normal trial and mostly ERROR!
The 08 (drivers) seat has 4 wires in the input clip.
GRN-RED (heavy gauge)
BLK-PURP (heavy gauge
BLU-RED
BLK-WHT
and my 01 whip out of the floor has a 3 wire setup.
GRN (heavy gauge)
BLK (heavy gauge)
BRN-BLU
I can wire PS side seat from fuse box and ground it NP. It only has a 2 wire set-up in the new seat.
I have a 2000 f250 super duty. Right now the only problems with it are:
1: When i press the door lock switch the passenger door lock will click and come down about half way but the door still is unlocked. in order to lock it, you have to press the latch down by hand.
2: My key won't unlock or lock the driver's side door from the outside, however it works to start the truck and open the passenger door.
3: When i bought the truck the previous owner game me a handheld wireless unlock and lock button. The little black thing with an alarm button, and it doesn't work either, i replaced the batteries and still nothing. So what would be the solution to fixing all of this?
2000 XLT F150 4.6 - New starter & solenoid(s), battery cable & fuse links good.
When i turn the key, I hear one single click and the power cuts out entirely. I can't attempt a second start or turn on the lights or have any power going through the truck until I disconnect the battery for about 10 seconds then reconnect. Electrical becomes live again, then when the ignition is turned the electrical cuts out again. I do hear a single cluck at the starter (probably attempting to engage when it cuts out) and a clunk right at the inside fuse box (drivers side).
I recently bought a 92 F250 and love it but the blinkers will not work. I have replaced both flashers and the multifunction switch. (the wipers had issues too that were fixed by the switch...) Now what? Im at a loss..
View 7 RepliesMy 2000 f350 has wires that dont match anything I've seen. I need to mate this to an 08 harness so I need to be accurate. I have
(2) yellow. I know this is 12v constant
(2) green/purple I know this is 12v constant
(1) red/black
(2) solid red
(1) solid black
(1) gray/light blue
So here is a fun one for you. Somewhere in my wiring I have a short that is causing my lights, blinkers and ignition to all activate. Example, I lock the car, the dash lights, brights, everything flash on and off with the horn... Should be a fun one, car runs and drives fun, however when I turn on the lights both blinkers and the bright come on the dash, weirdness.
View 5 RepliesI am trying to hook up my power door locks to my command start. I am having trouble getting it to work. Ive tried a number of relay diagrams from the12volt.com. I've tried actuators/reverse polarity and it blows both my factory door lock fuse and the fuse I have supplied to the relays. Ive also tried 5 wire alternating 12 volt positive door locks, and 3 wire positive door lock combinations. Both of these combinations the relays click back and forth fine with the actuators unhooked, when I connect the actuators the doors unlock with the factory switch but when I unlock with my remote it blows the fuse. How to properly connect the actuators?
View 3 RepliesI just bought my first Ford its an 1996 f250 powerstroke, and I am having issues with it. Every time I push in the brake both blinkers come on and tail lights and upper parking lights on cab, and when I turn on a blinker everything flashes.
View 8 Replies