Ignition - Civic - Honda - Misfire :: 1996 - Check Engine Light Is On / Code P1382
Aug 2, 2011
The check engine light is on in my 1996 Honda Civic. The code for it is P1382, which is supposed to be either a misfire or the ignition control system. It runs fine most of the time, but intermittently cuts out while I am driving sometimes. I have replaced the spark plugs and fuel filter and the check engine light actually went off after replacing the fuel filter, but came back on the second time I drove the car. The distributer was replaced not quite a year ago with a reman distributor.
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Driving on highway, check engine light goes on, speedometer drops from 60 to 0 but nothing else happens. Come to a stoplight and engine light stays on and speedometer works again. Any diagnostics?
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I have a '96 Honda Civic DX model, manual transmission. I replaced the battery, sparkplugs, distributor last summer. Yesterday, hottest day yet this spring, my car wouldn't start. When cranked, the lights came on the dash, the fuel line was running, the check engine light blinked, but then no ignition. Left it overnight, started up fine this morning. Took it to a shop,Mechanic said battery and alternator were good and a replaced starter later, I took it home. Driving home, the idle dropped way too low (no tach) and almost stalled the car (battery light came on) when I pushed in the clutch. Now when I turn it on, it starts, idles regular, then the idle drops again.
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I have a 96 Honda Civic CX. The check engine light came on the other day while it was raining (don't know if the rain had anything to do with it) and now it comes on every time I start the car until it warms up. Once in a while it comes back while driving but that's rare. I tried to get the code with a cheap reader and it didn't show that anything is wrong. I then took it to an auto parts place and they used one of their nice readers to scan it and told me that everything is fine. What's the next step?
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Got a 1996 Ford Ranger with the 4.0L in it that has a misfire on the #3 cylinder and giving check engine code: P303. Have tried new plugs, wires, distributor, switching out the coil pack with a known good, checked injectors for pulse, checked injectors, moved injectors and still the misfire remains on #3. Removed the valve covers and all appears to be well.
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I have a 2001 Honda CRV with about 140,000 miles. It is an upstate NY car, so has seen its share of salt and rough winter driving, has a little bit of rust.
I recently brought it in for repairs because it was overheating. It was over the holiday weekend and I had a job interview to get to so I brought it a chain, which was the only open mechanic I could find. They told me there was a coolant leak and replaced the radiator.
The next day, the check engine came on. Cylinder misfire code. I took it back to them and they wouldn't give me a straight answer on what was going on but insist they told me that would happen and it needed more repairs which I had apparently refused. They told me it's probably the spark plugs/wires are old but maybe there's more damage, but basically that they didn't want to deal with it.
So I brought the car to my regular guy. He says, yeah it needs a tune-up. So he replaces the spark plugs and wires etc and gives it back. I drove it for a day and the light came back on. So I brought it back to him again and he refused to do anything. Wouldn't give me some possible causes or explanations, just says come pick it up. Didn't say stop driving it, take it to a dealer, he just reset the check engine light and said its probably fine.
The next time I drove the car, while it was warming up the check engine light was flashing. By the time the engine was warm the light had stopped flashing and was on.
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I have honda civic 2005 Lx with 170,000 miles. I noticed increased RPM about 1.5 with cold start but no missfire. I attempted to take out ignition coils to see if genuine ones solve the issue. It is very little rainy today with high humidity. After I put new ignition coils, I noticed increased shaking with misfire. I have not touched anything except for putting in/out coils. I ensured the position and connection of the coils. Is this anything with humidity? I did it really quick without much exposure to the rain. How to resolve this issue? at least return to previous condition?
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This is my friend's car and I have never looked under a Subaru hood before. She is getting an intermittent check engine light with codes for cylinder misfires on one and three. Today, I inspected the plugs and all four looked identical, a nice uniform tan color and good condition. No sign of deposits or oil. Did a compression test and found the driver's side bank at 155/150 and the passenger side bank at 185/190. My question at this point is which side is cylinders 1 and 3? The front-most cylinder is on the passenger side. Is this the number 1 and 3? If so, then the low compression on the other bank cannot account for the misfire.
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The mechanic I use told me how he repaired a fault with the Honda Civic hybrid battery that kept the check engine light on and indicated a code for a faulty battery. It appears that if the different cells in the battery have a voltage variance between them that is outside of the parameters set, the light will come on and stay on. The customer was told by Honda service that he needed a new battery, but the car was out of the warraqnty period.
The mechanic theorized that he could remedy this if he drained the battery down and recharged it. After two cycles, the check engine light went off. I wonder if this would work for other hybrid owners?
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I have a 2001 Honda Civic with 190K miles. Usually runs fine. The other day it was torrential downpours as I'm driving on the highway. After about 100 miles of rainy driving, I lost the ability to accelerate. All accessories still on, but no response from the gas pedal. At the same moment, the check engine light came on, then -- while coasting off an exit ramp -- the car made a loud squealing noise for about 10 seconds.
I turned the car off, and was able to restart it without problems, although the engine was idling strangely with a faint knocking/fluttering noise. Drove to a Sears where they ran diagnostics on the engine -- the only code that came up was that the TDC Sensor was picking up noise. But the car ran, so we kept driving and the check engine light shut off on its own.
Managed to drive 2 hours to our destination, but had one incident of squealing from the engine (about 10 seconds while slowing down and then speeding up), and lost ability to accelerate again, this time accompanied by the Battery Light coming on as well as the Check Engine.
Today the car is in the shop, with Check Engine light off again but Battery Light still on. Mechanic suggested it might be the Alternator, but that seems odd to me because we just replaced the alternator, battery about 5 months ago and all accessories worked fine when we lost ability to accelerate, and the car was able to restart.
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So I drive a 2001 civic 5-speed and recently my check engine light doesn't go off right away after I start my car. It'll blink for a good 5-10 seconds then stops. Thought it might be the oil, changed it didn't do anything. What it can be?
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A little background information: 2007 Honda Civic EX, 62000 miles, never been in an accident other than a couple bumper breakers, I'm the second owner and bought the car Certified Pre-Owned in 2008. I take pretty decent care of the car -- regular tune ups and oil changes. The check engine light comes on sporadically. It'll be on for a full day, and then it'll disappear, and won't reappear for a week, sometimes more.
Last summer, I got into one of those bumper breakers I mentioned before. I rolled into a car in front of me at about 7 mph when I took my eyes off the road for a moment because a woman swung open her car door next to me as I passed, and it grabbed my attention. Cracked my bumper, knocked off the Honda "H" logo, and otherwise caused cosmetic damage, but no mechanical damage from what I could tell. I didn't have anybody look at it, but since then I have had 2 oil changes, 2 tune ups and an inspection, and nobody noticed any problems. It turns out that my radiator had the slightest ding in it and was causing me to very slowly leak coolant. There were never any signs -- no corrosion, no pools under the car, nothing like that. It wasn't until this week when my car began overheating and my check engine light came on that I realized there was a problem. I had the radiator replaced and the transmission fluid changed because it was pretty well burnt up.
At the mechanic, they hooked up my car to their computer and the on-board computer gave them this error message: "P0848 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure SW (Open or Stuck)". The mechanic tells me that I need a whole new transmission. I am completely in disbelief. At only 62000 miles? Only a year or so removed from when my CPO Powertrain Warranty expired? It's a big pill to swallow. Especially since I'm a relatively poor 30 year old who is getting married in November and don't have a penny to spare.
So, here are my questions for you:
(1) What does this error message mean?
(2) Does it really mean that I need a whole new transmission? If not, what is the recommended procedure to fix the problem...
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The check engine light stays on. The hood of my car was not securely locked when I purchased it, I'm sure it's due to an accident because it's damaged. Can the hood be a reason the check engine light stays on..it does not blink.
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Honda Odyssey 2005 – 176000 miles. Cylinder 4th Misfire – check engine lightHonda has about 176000 miles. When cold – before warming up – it acts like nothing is wrong – as it gets warmer – to the middle of the temperature gauge – it misfires.And runs rough. Evaluation: Honda Dealership thinks it is a cracked Valve or needs adjustment – they have replaced a spark plug and swapped coils. Not for sure.They think if that is not the case then there could be additional problems.Question: Why does it act normal when cold ? How can we confirm if it is the valve and not cracked head?
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I had plugs and wires changed to try clear code. Car seemed to do some better but while trying to go up a steep hill car started stuttering and jerking. Power went out of car and check engine light started blinking fast. After let the car sit for bout 45mins car started running fine again and light stopped flashing but remained on. Code read cylinder2 misfire again.
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Been told my EGR valve is ok on my 96 accord . But I may have carbon build up in my suction side . I used deep creep for week to loosen up the build up. What else can I do?
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My 96 toyota celica check engine light is on and I get the code P0340. Also I can't seem to get my reverse light to work what could be the problem.
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Started happening 3 days ago. This only occurs when the car is idle and the A/C is on. It does not kill the engine but makes it bog down during this. The cycle is that it dies this and then runs smooth for 30 seconds before starting again. Does not happen when in gear (that im aware of) When traveling in neighborhoods the air blows cool, main roads cold, highway ice cold. Idle it blows warm. I will be able to test the coolant levels with a friends gauge tomorrow. What is causing this.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Prius with just under 30,000 miles. Yes, I don't drive all that much, which makes the Prius the perfect car. I get it serviced every 6 months by the dealer. So far, other than oil changes, the only actual maintenance has been tires, a 12 volt battery, and a $300 "inspection".
A few weeks ago the "Check Engine" light came on. I pulled the code P0301, which translated to "Misfire on cylinder 1". The car was running great at that time, and since clearing the code it has continued to run without the light coming on again. Given that my maintenance is more time-related than mileage-related, it's possible that the ignition system needs attention. However I'm reluctant to bring that up at my next maintenance appointment, because the guy writing up the service order will always answer "Yes" to every "Do I need ..." question.
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I bought my 2008 Prius 9-14 with 29,000 miles on it. (rebuilt title-big mistake I now know). I found out after I bought it that it had sat for 5 years before it was rebuilt) I figured it was a miracle the hybrid battery even worked.
I had no problems until 2-4-15 when check engine light was flashing and the car was shaking. The local mechanic said was the “clutch” (torque converter), took the engine and transmission out of the car to fix it ($2200). But he realized the mass air flow sensor (MAP) was not working even after he put a new one in so had me take the car to the Toyota dealer. The dealer found a cut in the engine harness and advised me to replace the harness which he said would cost $2800. The local mechanic saw the cut via my cell phone photo and offered to fix it for free which he did.
The next day check engine light comes on after driven 25 miles with code PO 301. (means misfires in cylinder one). The local mechanic switches cylinder 1 with 4, same code the next day, local mechanic switches the coils to the cylinders, still the next day the same code. He switched the fuel injectors. Same problem of cylinder 1 misfire. He cleaned the oil out of the intake manifold, did fuel injection cleaning, and cleaned gunk out of the fuel line. Car would drive good about 20 miles then same check engine light, same code, sometimes code PO300 (random multiple misfires).
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(This is a continuation of a previous thread: [URL] ..... )
I have a 2005 Nissan Sentra with 75,000 miles on it. Several months ago (see above link) the check engine light came on with a P0304 cylinder 4 misfire code. The only symptom appears to be a rough idle/shaking every 3rd or 4th start for the first 10-15 seconds, but runs smoothly afterwards. My mechanic replaced all my spark plugs (I had new plugs put it at 50,000 miles for the same issue) of which the one from cylinder 4 was worn down much more than the rest. The problem persisted so they replaced my fuel pump and fuel filter and switched the spark coils from cylinder 4 to a different cylinder, but the code still read cylinder 4 so it wasn't the coil. That was back in October.
I took my car back in last week for the same problem and without starting my car (because the problem is worst on the first start) they pushed my car into the bay and did a smoke test, no leaks in the fuel lines. Then they checked the cylinder and said that there was "excess" fuel in the cylinder and replaced the fuel injector. Then after ~3 days the check engine came back on with the same P0304 misfire code. Previous repairs/diagnostics rule out spark plugs, coils, fuel pressure, and injectors.
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