Hyundai - Veracruz :: Alternator Breakdown Due To Gasket Failure
Feb 21, 2011
My 2007 hyundai veracruz broke down 2 days ago--the 2 month old battery was dead due to the alternator failure. The shop diagnosed the origin of the problem as a leak at the valve cover gasket, which ruined the alternator, and thus disabled the battery. My car has approx. 70,000 miles on it.
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Happy owner of a TDI - SEL for just over a year. One week shy of my 40K service, the alternator failed. All repairs covered with my extended warranty. Tech said he hadn't seen another alternator go bad and certainly hadn't seen a 1 year old TDI with 40K miles! Any alternator issues? otherwise been quite happy with the car.
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2014 4x4 5.0 ... Drove my new truck (less than 1900 miles) to work in the rain. Alternator failed and battery warning on dash. Took truck to dealer, they confirmed and said not covered by warranty. Talked to ford, they back up dealers decision. They want a whole bunch of money to replace alternator and clean under the hood. What good is a 4x4 if it fails driving to work on an open highway?
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93 Hyundai Excel 1.5L, 130k miles. Oil pan gasket leaking like crazy, took pan off and cleaned everything up real nice in preparation for new gasket.
Looked in the bottom of pan and noticed this thing sitting in it (the sleeve looking thing, not the nickel) it isn't a magnet, and looking up into the bottom end of my engine I couldn't see anything that looked like it. Here's a pic: [URL] .....
The inside is smooth, no threads or anything. It is metal.
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My van with the digital dash just started to flash the battery voltage display, with the blinking battery symbol, periodic beep, and showing a message that the battery voltage is low. I took it home immediately, and measured the battery voltage at about 12.5V, compared to almost 14V on my other cars, so it does seem lower. As a quick test, I pulled the connector from the alternator, and the alarm stopped. Of course, this meant it was not charging, but odd that that little change would silence the alarm.So I suspect my alternator has failed...
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I have a hyundai elantra 2005 with over 200K mi. last month it started overheating. I could not go a mile before it reached H again. No one could find any leaks and fan would go on if I put the AC on. Yet it would get so hot the car wouldn't start ( sounded like it was out of gas) I finally got to my mechanic and they said and showed me the fan had cracked and was bubbling water/coolant out. It had been okay could I have made it crack by still driving it? I stopped everytime and let it cool down..
They replaced fan but car was still going to H immediately. They then told me I had blown the head gasket. Between that and the fan it cost me 1100.00 I just got it back today and the AC is blowing hot air and it is driving oddly. It lurches and the tach sometimes jumps to 3 while I'm driving. they also replaced the timing belt again which the mechanic there had just did a few months ago. It feels like its going to stall out all the time and when I get around the 60 mph mark it lurches or feels like its not even in gear as though I'm revving it. Could this be normal because the head gasket is new and has to break in?
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I brought my Outback to one mechanic due to overheating and a strange skipping feeling when accelerating. First mechanic said head gaskets needed to be replaced, I wasn't surprised since I have about 142k miles on it and it has been leaking oil, quoted between $1800 and $2000. I took it to another shop, recommended by a friend, and they agreed the gaskets needed to be replaced and there was also a misfire due to the spark plugs. This shop quoted me at $2200-2600 for the head gaskets, spark plugs, all wires and timing belt, all other engine gaskets, thermostat, engine oil and coolant. I still owe a good bit on this car (parents bought on the fly from a less than stellar used lot and now it is my problem), and my thinking is I do not want to bring on more debt by attempting to trade this one in and go for a new car. My question is, do I go with the second mechanic that wants to basically rebuild to top of my engine, or would I be ok limiting the repairs to the head gaskets and spark plugs?
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Early 04 but 06 motor, Coolant filter, BPD EGR cooler, Head studs. I did use the search tool, overloaded with EGR cooler leaks and head gasket failure in the results.
Noticed ECT Spiking 217 (EOT 187)as went to post office,10 min run time from a cold start. Checked Degas a bit low, did my business and went home. Got home ECT 223 EOT(221) zero coolant in Degas and notice this mess. as well as puddling up under radiator.
I left the truck running and added some water to the degas hoping I could spot the leak, no love.
On our trucks do we have a weep hole for the water pump? I didn't notice any water or stains around it or the pulley. Nothing around the hoses either... yet.
Once it cools I am going to pull the fan shroud and look for a possible hole in radiator. Are there any other suspect areas?
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2001 Ford F250 5.4 gasoline. At the most recent oil change my mechanic said there was an oil leak and he had dyed the new oil and cleaned everything up and to come back in 100 miles.I just did so and he said that it was a leaking head gasket. He said to do the head gasket replacement right or to put in a rebuilt engine would be close to same and he would recommend the replacement. He said it was not a heavy leak and probably ok to drive another 10,000 or so miles first. Just returned from a trip where we drove 15 hours straight (30 degree temps) and the truck ran fine and no overheating.There does not appear to be oil in coolant or vice versa. I took the cap off overflow coolant and cranked and revved and no disturbance whatsoever. I read somewhere where a mechanic was saying it was impossible for this Ford engine to leak oil from a head gasket failure .
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Ok is it possible that a wheel bearing could have been affected by over lubricating the barring of our 2005 Volvo S60. It wasn’t making a noise from the left front wheel when the job was done, but when I left the shop I started to hear a noise that intensified when I turned left then continues at about the same pitch as I drove straight down the road. We haven’t taken the car in to verify my concern.
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2009 Hyundai Accent w/~90k miles
The other day my car failed, showing all the signs of a bad alternator (battery light on, lights dimming/flickering, etc.).Had a mechanic look at it and it was definitely the alternator - the bracket had even broken - as well as the battery.After replacing, though, it still has a problem with charging the battery, at least on initial start.Basically, when you start the car, the battery light comes on immediately. Hit the accelerator or drive 15-20 feet and the battery light goes out and the alternator starts charging again.
The mechanic thinks it is a wiring problem and said that would cost 800+ to fix. He suggested I just live with it. Does his diagnosis seem correct? Are there other things I should look at and/or test?
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Well I finally went and bought another Ranger. Pretty red 5spd 4WD long bed. I knew it didn't run when I got it (crazy leaky fuel line...stupid squirrels), and the owner was pretty sure it had a head gasket failure. He claimed it was blowing white smoke and using coolant. I hadn't been able to get it to run to verify that, but I can't see why he would lie about that.
I finally got the fuel line fixed today (FYI, don't waste your time or money buying those Dorman OEM connector patch kits at Advanced Auto). While we were cranking the truck, I noticed gas escaping the degas bottle the radiator was pressurized before the thermostat should be open. That to me says blown head gasket (crossing fingers it isn't a cracked head) for sure. I tried to get a picture of the dipstick, but in the light it definitely looks like peanut butter. I just wanted to make sure before the massive ordeal of pulling heads/top end work that will follow
Anyway, plan is to fix her up and get her back on the road! Some picture enjoyment .......
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2009 Sonata; about 82K miles. Drive belt was replaced in July, about 6K miles ago, by Trusted Independent Mechanic in El Paso. Now, Trusted Independent Mechanic in DC area replaced it again because one of the belt's ribs was falling apart. Attached photographs show a portion of the damage (which is only on that one ridge).
Did that belt need to be replaced?What could have caused he damage? (Mechanic says pulleys look ok; maybe defective belt.)
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I can't seem to figure out how to replace the alternator on my 2007 V6 Camry. Is there any sort of repair manual available? I've searched and came up empty handed.
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Just installed a new alternator today, and the motor (4 cyl.) idles rough when the AC is on. The battery was disconnected during the installation, but nothing else was touched. Is this caused by the new alternator itself, or because the battery was disconnected for a while? Should I set the idle speed a little higher or what?
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I am trying to change the alternator in my dohc but cant get it out, I am trying to remove the pulley on the crankshaft and cannot figure out how to remove it. How to get the alternator out???????
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I have an '06 Camry and my check engine light came on so I thought I'd bring it to Auto Zone to have the guys run a free scan on it. They ran the scan and said that my alternator is overcharging and that if I didn't replace it, it would explode my battery and blow every bulb and fuse in the car. then brought it to Advance Auto Parts and they said it just had a vacuum leak. I'm not really sure who to believe..
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I had a battery light come on and saw the alt wasnt charging my battery. So, I replaced the alt with a rebuilt hitachi. Well it was charging at 14.10 and thought all was well til I went out this weekend and was stranded. Tested the alt with my voltmeter and sometimes its 14 and sometimes the battery drops below 12. I charged the battery up overnight and its holding a good charge. I REALLY dont wanna drop this alternator out again so is there anything else I should check? Im getting the battery tested anyway.
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Trying to change the stupid alternator in my 99 A6, which is the same engine/accessory layout as the B5 Passat.
And I didn't realize what I was in for. Is there any way to get to this puppy without dropping the entire front end? By looking at it (nobody stocks Audi,Bentley) it looks like the front end has to come apart all the way to the radiator support..........
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Replacing the alternator on my wifes 2003 v6 passat. Not a mechanic by any means but I have plenty of time and all the tools for the job.
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Looking for Instructions and pictures...
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