Hyundai - Tucson :: 2005 - Transmission Won't Engage In Reverse Or Park Immediately
Apr 12, 2013
I have a Hyundai Tuscon 2005 with 140K automatic transmission. Original Owner and has treated me well. Current issue is the transmission will not engage in reverse or park immediately when shifted most notably first thing in the morning or in the late evening after sitting for a while. It acts as if it is in neutral until it engages after revving the engine for a while. Once it engages, it is a little sporadic for a few minutes and then all is fine for the rest of the day no matter how many times I start, stop or turn the car on or off.
Runs like a champ until the next morning and it starts all over again. A couple of times the check engine light has come on and I can tell that the transmission is stuck in 3rd gear. I can't manually get it to go up to 4th or down to 1 or 2. I can clear the code and then all is back to normal again with normal shifting again available. Short of a transmission rebuild (whihe probably won't happen) could it be electronic in nature since it comes and goes?
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My brother-in-law asked me about his 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe. It has an automatic transmission, that's where the problem is. Several times recently it doesn't want to go into reverse or park. Shifts fine, fluid fine, no smell or noises. Vehicle has about 68,000 miles on it.
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Still having issues with the transmission on my 05 F350. I posted before that it would take a few seconds to go into drive or reverse. The fixes were to change filters and do hot flush. I had the dealer do a hot flush, and then I put about 1000 miles on it. That didn't seem to fix anything, so I went back in and asked for more info. They did not change the filters. I thought they did, but found out they did not after the fact, so I decided to change the filters myself.
The interior filter was easy to change. The fluid was clean, and the magnet had shavings on it but nothing that seemed extraordinary. The exterior filter is impossible to get off. I reviewed posts on here before trying, so first was the impact wrench, then the pipe wrench, then the pipe wrench with a block wedged in to keep the thing from bending, still no luck. The cast nut broke off well before the pipe wrench came out of the drawer. How to get that thing off. I read on here somewhere that no fluid goes through that until 180 degrees, is that correct?
Scanguage says it rarely goes over 160, except for last evening when I was stuck in traffic. It went to 187, with ECT at 208. During this period, traveling under 40 most of the time, the transmission was shifting erratically, to the point I wanted to pull over and allow it to cool down. But traffic broke free, speed went up, and temps went down. Shifting returned to normal, except when trying to engage drive or reverse. The 3-4 second delay persists at any temp, and there doesn't seem to be any slippage. Just delayed and sometimes hard engagements. I'm at a loss for whats wrong.
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I have a 2015 Hyundai Elantra SE with only 3880 miles on it. I purchased it new last March. I have noticed when the car is cold when I shift from Park to Drive or Reverse to Drive, the transmission does not always engage immediately. It takes a second or so (not much over a second, but I haven't timed it). The car shifts smooth without any other issues. I have not noticed this concern when the car is warmed up, or seen this when shifting into reverse.
Should I be concerned about this shifting behavior? I have not contacted the dealership yet.
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I got a 99' Jetta gls 5 spd. I just replaced the transmission and now the car won't engage reverse from inside the cockpit. Reverse can be engage from inside the engine bay, but when the shift knob is depressed nothing happens. Linkag cables are in the correct spots.
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Just started to leak, evidence on the ground. No noise when turning or driving. The shop said I needed entire rack and pinion but only put the car on lift no other testing. Is this urgent meaning need to get fixed tomorrow? Do I need an entire rack and pinion? Can parts get fixed in the power steering and not the entire thing? They quoted me $1575.00 but I found the rack/pinion part online for $350.00.
I don't drive the car much why did this start?
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2006 Tucson shuts off sometimes when I pull into my driveway. It starts right back up and it doesn't happen all the time. I have replaced the cam and crank shaft sensors with no luck.
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What could be causing my radio to shut down after five seconds? If it was the fuse, it wouldn't come on at all. I suspect the amp/power supply. What else could it be? I think all of my radio stations have been reset too. 2009 Hyundai Tucson.....
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When I'm cruising along in my 2011 Hyundai Tucson and lift my foot off the gas to slow down, then give it gas again, the rpms rev but the car acts as if it's in neutral for a couple of seconds...It doesn't speed up. This is intermittent but becoming more frequent. What's up with that?
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I have a 2007 e-150 ford van with only 38,000 miles on it, with i believe a 4r70w transmission. The problem started yesterday. Going in reverse, it would go, but as soon as you take the foot of the gas, it would stop immediately, plus very difficult until it would start rolling, I think this is called engine breaking. Also, in Park, revving the engine, the trans makes a very strange noise, and wants to creep up (move forward) with more gas you give it. neutral does the same thing. When i drive the van, it seems like it switches gears fine, and does not make any noise, but the OD light does not show when you press the button. I did check the fluid, nice and red/pink color no smell at all. No leaks under the car, and the trans is totally dry all around. I do not show a check engine light on. This morning my friend came over with his scanner and hooked it up to my van's plug. It showed no codes of anything wrong. What might be wrong with the trans? My friend seems to think it might be a solenoid problem, I sort of think it might be a shifting problem, but i am no mechanic.
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Tucson with 31,000 miles, and my 5-year power train warranty will expire in mid-September 2011. Recently, and consistently, when I drive through a puddle my power steering suddenly quits, the battery light comes on, the brake light comes on, and my blood pressure rises a bit. After a few seconds, the power steering will come back on, or I'll pull over and re-start the car for the power steering to come on.
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i've got an accord 4 cylinder with an automatic transmission that does not engage any of the other gears when i shift it out of park. all indicator lights are out except for the park position on the dash.
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Hyundai Tucson 2005 sat outside for 10 days in summer heat and two days of thunder and lighting. I am original owner and this car has always started and runs great. After sitting for 10 days, it would not start. The motor turned well by the starter but no ignition. Towed to my mechanic and explanation was the electronic control memory was wiped clean. It took two hours of reprogramming and $170.00 to get it working. There was no need to replace any electrical components and at present the car is running fine. My question is what caused this? How could an on-board computer memory spontaneously be erased, and will this trouble reappear down the road?
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Just had a new timing belt put in with water pump. Drove it home and the temp gauge flew up to red zone. Took it back they said air pocket in system. Bled the system. Drove home and same thing happened. Nothing changed. Temp gauge elevates past normal and into red zone when I idle or drive slow without air conditioning on. The weird thing if the air conditioning is on the gauge stays at normal longer. What is the issue? Is it a bad water pump or thermostat? Or something else.
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My TPMS light comes on about 75% of the time. (That's not the light for low pressure.) I took it in to the dealer once and they replaced the valve stem in one tire. It continued to come off and on intermittently. This time the dealer said they needed reprogrammed. It still continued. This time, they said there was no evidence of an error message while running diagnostics. They told me to just ignore it from now on.
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Just a little background, my Ex is a 2000 V10 4x4 with 217,000 miles. I've owned it for a little under a year. Very clean truck, and well maintained by previous owner. Now the issue. Starting about a month after I bought it, it would occasionally hesitate to engage drive from park. I checked fluid and it was full and clean. I had a buddy recommended that I check for chafed wires in the steering column which I did and found nothing. It seemed to get better for a while but now it's back. It's doing it more than half the time I put it in drive and sometimes takes 10-15 seconds to engage. So am I probably looking at a new trans? Or, is there anything that can be done to save the old trans?
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Over a period of several months, my 2008 Tucson began experiencing a series symptoms, which at the time, I didn't realize were related:
The stereo would occasional freeze up. It would still play, but the volume or channels couldn't be adjusted without restarting the vehicle. The washer fluid motor stopped working. This was a continuous failure.The check airbag light came on and stayed on.
One morning, several months after the first symptom appeared, I went outside to find the hazard lights turning on and off randomly. The car would not start. I had the battery tested. It was drained, but not defective. After putting the charged battery in , the car still would not start. I had it towed to the dealer.
Immediately after the car was taken off the tow truck, it started, the check engine light was off and the washer fluid motor was working. The diagnostic computer found no codes. The dealer cleaned and reattached the ground strap, and replaced the airbag pods as a precaution.
The car ran fine for several months, but then the radio and check airbag light problem started to appear again.
I took it to my regular mechanic this time. He could not find anything wrong, but gave me a new battery to try as a troubleshooting measure.
After a few months, the problems are now starting again.
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I have a 1994 F-150 extended cab electronically activated 4x4, with the 302 V8 and an e4od transmission.
When the truck is running and it is in park or neutral it makes a grinding/whining noise and when it is in gear it doesn't engage, or occasionally will barely engage, but only enough to move it a little ways.
I've read a couple of post that suggested bad connections to the transmission could cause the transfer case to be in neutral which could cause a similar problem to this. I checked all the connection the best I could and the only thing I found that gave me any concern was one of the wires connected to the transfer case shift motor had some of the insulation melted or rubbed of and the wire was a bit corroded.
Is there any chance that this could be causing my overall problem with the truck not driving? Or what might be going on with it? Or any way I might be able to fix it without having to hand over a significant chunk of change for the full rebuild.
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Just got a new GTI two weeks ago, and wow. I love it. It's like a dream come true to me to own a GTI. It's everything I've imagined and more. Anyways, while driving my girlfriend to the store last night I received the "Transmission error: Cannot engage reverse" error while driving down the highway (and obviously not trying to go into reverse). I have seen a few others with 2015 GTIs that have the DSG transmission with the same issue. Unfortunately my night ended in me limping the car home, and having it towed to the dealership today. Sadly the car only has 2800 miles on it, and it's my baby. Even the girlfriend says I love it more than her.
Now my question is, how was it fixed? Total replacement of transmission? Electronics issue? As you can imagine, I am super bummed about this. I can honestly say, 75% of the time I drive the car in manual mode, and very rarely take it over 4k RPM and have never redlined the thing. My mother and my girlfriend insist that I got this transmission error by driving an automatic in manual mode so much, however Volkswagen and the dealership insist that driving the car this way will do no harm whatsoever to the transmission.
So again, my question is, how is this issue resolved? Is driving my car this way really not good for it? Until then, I will be driving around this rental Passat, that feels like a boat compared to my GTI. But the sunroof and leather seats are pretty nice.
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I have 2009 corolla with about 125, 000 on it. A few times over the past couple of weeks on chilly mornings (in the 50's) the transmission did not engage in reverse right away. Usually with the fast idle you can feel it kick in but on these days it takes a few seconds before that happens. I have had the car for two years and have done nothing about transmission service. A dealer told me it was lifetime fluid and there is no dip stick to check it. Is this a common problem? Is this a sign the trans is on the way out? Should I sell the car now before it gets worse?
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I have a 1998 Mitsubishi Galant, 4cyl., 165, 000 miles. Without previous symptoms, one day the transmission developed a delay of 5 to 30-seconds before it would engage in reverse. The fluid was clean and I have been using the Mitsubishi brand that they recommend. So I replaced the original transmission with a used one. But the reverse delay continued, even with a different transmission. So I removed the used transmission and rebuilt the original one. The problem STILL remained. Since then, the valve body has been replaced and the speed sensor has been replaced. I cannot figure out why there is a delay when putting it into reverse. I ran out of solutions. I did notice one day that when I first start the car, and the engine is at 1000 RPM's or more, the reverse wouldn't engage. Then, as the RPM's dropped to about 200 RPM's, the reverse would engage. I thought maybe this would be a clue.
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