Hyundai - Transmissions - Santafe :: 2004 - Hard / Lurching Shift Into 3rd Gear
Dec 24, 2013
For the past 3 months, upon shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear, the car lurches forward in a hard shift. Sometimes, it is nothing more than a benign "clunk", and other times it is violent, as if hitting a wall. This does not happen every time it shifts and even under identical acceleration, the results vary from none to violent. The number of violent shifts vs. small jolts has increased over time, and all other transmission functions and shifts are fine/normal. After much time researching the inter-blogs, I have come to no consensus on what is causing this or how to fix it.
Some say it is the adaptive shifting program and it just needs updating and others say it's the tranny and a rebuilt tranny replacement is the only thing that eventually fixed this problem (though one posting on the Hyundai forum is of the same exact problem, but the solution is worrisome -- contact negative battery terminal to positive, let sit for 10 min, reconnect, then drive at 1/3 throttle, shifting through all gears a dozen times. Poster says this resets adaptive shifting program and worked for him).
Finally, today, I took it in for a diagnostic with a local transmission specialist, and they could only replicate the hard shift once, but when that happened, he said the car went into limp mode and read two codes: P1193 and P2127. The car has never gone into limp mode (P1193) nor shown an signs of suppressed RPMs associated with this mode. Also, he seemed to focus his attention on the low voltage to the pedal position sensor (P2127) as being the major issue that is causing the hard shift. I also called a past dealer that worked on a similar issue with the car when I bought it used 4 years ago and they recommended updating the adaptive shifting program as they did last time; though I don't recall if the shifting issue was the exact same problem I am having now. So, a few things:
Does this sound like a computer issue or a tranny issue? Could the pedal position sensor having low voltage cause a shifting problem like this? Any merit to the connecting the battery terminals idea? Should I be wary of the mechanic that did the diagnostic today?
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I own an automatic transmission 2004 Hyundai Accent with about 180,000 miles. I bought it brand new, but it seems to be having trouble shifting into the right gear. Many transmission "specialists" keep telling me they can't figure out what is wrong, aside from offering to completely rebuild my transmission. The car has the following symptoms:
1. At a stop sign or red light, my car doesn't always begin idling properly. Sometimes it just won't go anywhere at all, even with the motor running.
2. As I drive down the highway, it acts like it jumps into a higher gear for no reason. It sometimes resets itself with no action on my part.
3. The car jerks back and forth, not seemingly due to shifting into gear, but randomly.
4. The check engine light does not come on often, but by the time I can use a DTC reader, the light goes off.
Everything seems to be intermittent, so I can't replicate the problem on-demand for anyone who wants to inspect the problems. Is there anything I can do? Is there an easy way to figure out what's really going on? I'm assuming this is transmission-related...
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Ozzy is a 2003 Hyundai Accent with an automatic transmission. Over the last 2 year he has been having a lot of problems with his transmission. The first thing that was done was to replace his transmission fluid. Unfortunately the chuckle head that replaced his transmission fluid put the wrong kind in and he had to have a whole new transmission installed. And now only about a year later Ozzy is having transmission problems yet again. What is happening is that it feels like the car is struggling to shift gears and then once in gear it will suddenly accelerate.
Also, the idle races even when your foot is not on the gas pedal and yes, the check engine light is on. So, I have a couple of questions. First how much longer can she keep driving it like this before the engine falls out somewhere on the 405? Secondly how much is it going to cost to repair Ozzy? Also her driving the car when it is behaving this way is really dangerous, right? Because it felt pretty scary today when I was sitting in the passenger's seat and we were doing 75 on the freeway and Ozzy was shaking and making all sorts a noise. And lastly, she needs a new mechanic right, there is no way she should keep going to these guys that put the wrong fluid in and then replaced her transmission, right?
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I've been have been having a problem with my car. It initially started at Christmas when I went up to MI for a visit. It would have problems shifting into gear after reversing. At first I just thought it was because it wasn't used to the really cold weather as we live in AL.When I returned it still did it, I would try the other gears available on the auto transmission and it still seemed to have a problem shifting from 1 to 2. It would slow down and you could rev the engine and it still would not shift.
All of a sudden it would kick and shift and you could drive. This only happened the first time you drove it that day. It would also kick very slightly when you went below 30mph. It doesn't do that anymore.I went for another visit up north and while I was there it started kicking whenever I was over 60mph. When i got back to AL I took it into the dealership as the check engine light came on. It now kicks all the time regardless of speed, though does it less at lower speeds, but if there is exertion on the engine like a hill, it kicks, kicks, kicks. When it kicks the rpm goes down and up.The dealer said that the things that needed to be changed are:- front assembly trans pump- crank sensor- gasket- oil pan.
I've tried taking it to a transmission place to have just the pump changed for less and all they wanted to do was give me a whole new transmission. This car is on it's third transmission as far as I know and a new/rebuilt one was just put in 2 years ago.After talking with my father (who was a engineer) he told me a way to check if the crank sensor a problem was to have the car in neutral and rev the engine. He said that it would still do the same problems if it was the crank sensor. I did this and it did not kick at all.Is there any real way of knowing if it is really the pump that is causing all these problems or if it really needs a new transmission or something else.
Chrysler Town and Country, 2003, 134K ...
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I have a 2010 Volvo XC60 T6 AWD. I am encountering an issue with the transmission lurching, usually between 2nd and 3rd gear. While accelerating, the RPMs increase normally and when it tries to shift, it disengages 2nd, waits and the RPMs shoot up another 500-1000 before shifting into 3rd, giving the entire car a big lurch. It doesn't happen every time, but mostly when the when car hasn't been running for long. Another aspect is that the engine seems slightly underpowered when this occurs. The car runs great the rest of the time.
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My 2005 PT Cruiser (not turbo) is giving me a very frustrating P0700 code and a weird problem. First thing in the cold, autumn, the car drives perfectly fine (through still with the engine code on). Once the day warms up a little, the transmission decides that shifting past second gear is for punks and won't do it, so 30 mph has the engine revving at 3K rpm.
My morning commute is 20 minutes, and in that time, I go up to 50 mph with no issues. Driving home, or any other time of day, becomes the issue. What in the world could possibly be going wrong? I've been trying to hit up the junkyard for a PCM to see if switching that out would work, but it's been too rainy and cold to get out there.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra with approx 155,000 miles on it(I don't know if that matters). The car started ok at first. When I put it into reverse, I noticed that it was really hard to move the gear shift(which it's normally really easy). I put it back in park and let it sit for a minute thinking it just had to warm up a bit more.
When I tried it again, it was still hard to shift, but this time when it got into gear I heard a loud clunk. This scared me, so I put it back in park and turned off the car. Now it won't start. All of my lights(headlights, dashboard lights, radio) come on, but the engine won't turn over.
I don't know if any of the following is relevant but I'm putting it out here anyway just in case it is: The battery is only a year old(and since all my lights came on, I don't think it's dead)I had an oil change on Saturday. The belts were replaced a few months ago. My check engine light is on because of an O2 sensor.
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I have a 2000 Hyundai Sonata with 110K miles. It runs well, still quiet, good gas mileage. The problem is that it will not shift from 3rd to 4th gear. This is not constant. When I start it up cold in the morning, it shifts fine. But sometime during the day, when it needs to go from 3rd to 4th (often on the interstate), it refuses to shift. It stays in 3rd, the engine light comes on, and I'll drive about 60 mph and try to keep the RPMs under 3000. It always "fixes" itself when I turn off the ignition. This makes me think the problem is at least partially electrical. A couple more things: it only happens when the car is warmed up -- never when I drive it cold. Also, sometimes this will happen in 1st gear, where it won't shift into 2nd, but jumps straight to 3rd rather violently.
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My 2004 Santa Fe doesn't want to start after fueling. It doesn't matter whether it was just a few dollars worth or a full fill up. After pumping the gas and recapping securely, I have to press and hold the Accelerator to get it to catch. I had the purge control valve replaced a few months ago. And my car started mourn normally for a while. However I'm back to having to push progressively harder on the gas pedal to get it to start after gassing up.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent, has 167k miles on it. Transmission has 80k, put in at about 155k. Came home from Tahoe, and the next day, I tried to go to work, and the gear shift was stuck in first. Hadn't had the money to get anything fixed, but when I finally got it looked at, was told I needed a new clutch and possibly a new flywheel. Been cleaning it out to sell, and today I started it up and realized that the stick is in neutral and moves back and forth freely, but the transmission is in gear. I know that, because I had to keep my foot on the clutch to keep it running. What would cause that? I'm hoping it's something easy and cheaper to fix, because I love this car and am not ready to part with it just yet. The clutch doesn't have that many miles on it either, maybe 10-15k, if that. I've had the car for almost ten years, so it's not poor driving, on my part.
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The timing belt broke on my aveo, destroying the engine. I replaced the engine with a used one. Now I get the car back on the road and the automatic transmission won't shift from 3rd gear into 4th. Is it possible this problem was caused when the new engine was installed, or the transmission was damaged when the timing belt broke?
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My 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with 78K miles has never had any major problems until a month ago. I was doing errands and after my second errand the car would not start. AAA came jumped it, and I took it to a local shop where they replaced the battery. They said the rest of the car seemed just fine. The next week, after gassing up, the car again would not start. It made the same sound, like the engine was trying to turn over or it wasn't accessing the fuel. A bystander thought perhaps it was the oxygen sensor.
After resting for about 10 minutes, the car started and I drove it to a Hyundai dealership. They said the fuel pump needed to be replaced. It seemed fine after the replacement. A week later, the same thing happened. The car would not start. Not after 10 minutes, not after 30. AAA again was called and after I told them about the fuel pump they thought perhaps the relay was bad. They swapped the relay with one I wasn't using and the car started.
I, again, brought the car to the dealer. They inspected the whole car. There were no codes when they hooked it up to the computer and it drove just fine. They simply replaced the relay. Last night, the car made a funny sound upon starting, almost like a hissing or light clunking. This morning the car started fine. I drove for about 5 minutes and then the car stopped accelerating and the power steering seemed off. The car then died and would not start. I was in the middle of an intersection.
After about 15 minutes the cops came and pushed my car while I was in neutral. A few minutes later the car still would not start and it was towed back to the dealer. The car has been with the dealer for over 3 hours. They have driven it, tested it, driven it, tested it while driving. Everything. And they can't replicate the problem.
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Our 2004 Santa Fe 6 cylinder ( front wheel drive) was being backed up when a Clunk was heard, and then the Battery and the Brake lights came on. My wife called the dealership and they say not to drive it, but to bring it to them. What could the issue be?
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I own a 2002 Monte Carlo SS 3.8 6cyl. I believe it has a 4T65-E transmission.
On a regular basis if I drive 20 miles out of town, on my way back the transmission starts to shift hard (long shift?). From my research online, the 4T65-e is a faulty transmission to begin with. Is it worth replacing the Shift and Pressure solenoids? If I were to buy a new transmission where should I look? What are some model numbers?
Oil, trans fluid, filters are changed on regular basis.New catalytic converter. No Check Engine Light.
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I have a 1998 bmw 528i (e39) with 200k on it. It runs and drives like a dream except for one little thing.... when shifting into the next gear at around 25mph, if I let off the gas just before it shifts it clunks as it shifts into the next gear. However, if I accelerate through the gear change it is smooth as can be and has no problems through the gears.
Secondly and I believe unrelated, I am also looking for the location of a transmission temperature sensor... I have heard they tend to fail and can cause issues with shifting until the car is up to running temp. I experienced an issues with it once not wanting to shift out of 1st gear until it warmed but that was before a filter and fluid change. Since that, I haven't any issues, but I want to be prepared just in case with one on hand ready to go in.
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This problem started at the beginning of this winter. So I started to idle for 2 mins and the car was shifting without an issue.
However, now it is completely stuck and wont shift to 3rd gear even if I drive for 15 mins at 60mph.
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i have a 1999 mercury cougar and for almost a year when I drive it on the highway then get off and go to drive again it gives me a hard shift and will continue doing so, but if i turn the car off then back on it doesn't do it, very weird, but i got the codes and not sure what my next step would be to fixing it p1744- TCC system perform p1519 - IMRC stuck closed again this only happened when i drive the car for about 10-15 min on the highway then get off...
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It is a 2001 1.8T Golf, automatic. 75000 miles on it, mostly highway. I returned from my recent road trip, halfway across the country, which involved a couple of snow storms but otherwise everything ran smoothly.The day after I got back, I was going to dinner and the car wouldn't shift up out of 1st gear... unless I gunned it to almost 40 mph. Next time I started it, the check engine light turned on. I have driven it 3 miles, twice, since then and the problem remains. What the problem might be, if I'll need to replace transmission or just some fluid, or get a new car?
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I have the above referenced car with about 65k miles on it. Today I took it for a drive, switched it to tip-tronic manual and found that the car would not shift past 3rd gear. When I switched to automatic, the transmission stayed on tip-tronic (the display indicated I was on 3rd gear). I had to fully stop the car, place it on park and only then did the transmission switch to automatic.
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For about a year and a half I have had an "undiagnosable" noise that started as an intermittent metallic buzzing and has evolved into a constant whirring/grinding noise. The tempo of the noise increases when accelerating; occurs at all speeds and at idle. People say they know when I am approaching they can hear my car from about two blocks away.
My regular 20 year mechanic checked transmission, replaced timing belt (at 65K; now have about 74K); all idler pulleys; checked alternator; He thinks is is the AC drive pulley on the compressor; Hyundai dealership did not know what it is; laymen have suggested is is a power steering pump, reservoir issue. Power steering fluid level is fine. Otherwise, the performance of the car is fine.
Engine is 3.5L V6; 2004, about 74+K
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We purchased a CPO 2011 Mercury Mariner Premium in October 2013. The first time this incident occurred was when we had the car about 2 hours. What happens is after driving for a while at a high-rate (usually about 60mph or higher), I gradually slow down as I get off of the freeway and start heading towards our house. Once I get into the subdivision, as I am coaxing, the car will lurch when it is at about 20mph. This also happens if I am on the toll road and then slow down to pay the toll then somewhere around there or when I stop for my turn, it will lurch. I took the car back to the dealer within the first week and the mechanic and I drove the car for a while and of course, it didn't happen. He said there was no way for him to know what was happening unless it happened when he was in the car. I was actually put off because I asked if we should keep driving or take it back to the shop and he said "well, you know I don't get paid for test drives".
Anyway, they checked to see if there was an update on a module or something? He said there was (again, said he didn't know if it was related to what I was experiencing). It is still happening. We previously had a 2009 Ford Escape and got pretty good gas mileage. That car was totaled (fortunately no one was injured...my newest teen driver lol), and we had hoped to get as good gas mileage with this Mariner but no. Also, in December (2 months after we got the car) the "check engine" light came one. I scheduled it for service for the following Monday (it was Friday) and later that day, the car kept dying. We had to have it towed in. They repaired that problem and we hoped that it would solve this other issue, but it did not.
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