Hyundai - Sonata - Transmissions :: 2000 - Freezes In 3rd Gear
Mar 12, 2011
I have a 2000 Hyundai Sonata with 110K miles. It runs well, still quiet, good gas mileage. The problem is that it will not shift from 3rd to 4th gear. This is not constant. When I start it up cold in the morning, it shifts fine. But sometime during the day, when it needs to go from 3rd to 4th (often on the interstate), it refuses to shift. It stays in 3rd, the engine light comes on, and I'll drive about 60 mph and try to keep the RPMs under 3000. It always "fixes" itself when I turn off the ignition. This makes me think the problem is at least partially electrical. A couple more things: it only happens when the car is warmed up -- never when I drive it cold. Also, sometimes this will happen in 1st gear, where it won't shift into 2nd, but jumps straight to 3rd rather violently.
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For the past 3 months, upon shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear, the car lurches forward in a hard shift. Sometimes, it is nothing more than a benign "clunk", and other times it is violent, as if hitting a wall. This does not happen every time it shifts and even under identical acceleration, the results vary from none to violent. The number of violent shifts vs. small jolts has increased over time, and all other transmission functions and shifts are fine/normal. After much time researching the inter-blogs, I have come to no consensus on what is causing this or how to fix it.
Some say it is the adaptive shifting program and it just needs updating and others say it's the tranny and a rebuilt tranny replacement is the only thing that eventually fixed this problem (though one posting on the Hyundai forum is of the same exact problem, but the solution is worrisome -- contact negative battery terminal to positive, let sit for 10 min, reconnect, then drive at 1/3 throttle, shifting through all gears a dozen times. Poster says this resets adaptive shifting program and worked for him).
Finally, today, I took it in for a diagnostic with a local transmission specialist, and they could only replicate the hard shift once, but when that happened, he said the car went into limp mode and read two codes: P1193 and P2127. The car has never gone into limp mode (P1193) nor shown an signs of suppressed RPMs associated with this mode. Also, he seemed to focus his attention on the low voltage to the pedal position sensor (P2127) as being the major issue that is causing the hard shift. I also called a past dealer that worked on a similar issue with the car when I bought it used 4 years ago and they recommended updating the adaptive shifting program as they did last time; though I don't recall if the shifting issue was the exact same problem I am having now. So, a few things:
Does this sound like a computer issue or a tranny issue? Could the pedal position sensor having low voltage cause a shifting problem like this? Any merit to the connecting the battery terminals idea? Should I be wary of the mechanic that did the diagnostic today?
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Ozzy is a 2003 Hyundai Accent with an automatic transmission. Over the last 2 year he has been having a lot of problems with his transmission. The first thing that was done was to replace his transmission fluid. Unfortunately the chuckle head that replaced his transmission fluid put the wrong kind in and he had to have a whole new transmission installed. And now only about a year later Ozzy is having transmission problems yet again. What is happening is that it feels like the car is struggling to shift gears and then once in gear it will suddenly accelerate.
Also, the idle races even when your foot is not on the gas pedal and yes, the check engine light is on. So, I have a couple of questions. First how much longer can she keep driving it like this before the engine falls out somewhere on the 405? Secondly how much is it going to cost to repair Ozzy? Also her driving the car when it is behaving this way is really dangerous, right? Because it felt pretty scary today when I was sitting in the passenger's seat and we were doing 75 on the freeway and Ozzy was shaking and making all sorts a noise. And lastly, she needs a new mechanic right, there is no way she should keep going to these guys that put the wrong fluid in and then replaced her transmission, right?
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2000 Chevy Blazer 4.3 (automatic) - When I bought it used, it shifted fine, has no issues other than the transfer case wouldn't engage every time. A few months later my overhead console display lights went out, then all the dash lights such as engine, 4x4, the gauges started lighting up and acting weird randomly, then a week later the truck started shifting funny.
Now 90% of the time, the truck won't start in 1st gear, it starts in 2nd, then while accelerating up to 30-35mph it will shift up way too soon and bog down, then shit back down to 2nd, then shift up again, and continue until it hits 30-35, then it fails to shift into overdrive. Also when coming to a stop, it kicks down a gear (into 2nd I assume) pretty hard and clanks pretty loud around 2mph just before a complete stop.
Weird thing is every once in awhile, it will go away and shift normal but the engine light is usually lit up during normal shifting.Could it be the ECM causing all these weird things?
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Sonata (automatic transmission) that has recently been "jumping" when the car shifts between 2nd and 3rd. This happens only after the engine is "warm", and does not happen in any other gears or when I downshift.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Sonata V6 with around 257,000 miles on it.
Recently, it has been slipping out of 5th in automatic mode so I have been driving it in manual mode without utilizing the 5th gear. When I'm in 4th, the RPMs are around 2,200 so not that bad going 60 mph.
The first event was when I was accelerating onto the highway on a bridge going 65 mph and all of a sudden, felt a thud in the front end and the "check engine light" came on. I also noticed that the RPMs were registering way too high (way over 3,000k) so basically it sounded like I was going 65 mph in 3rd gear. I had to drive until the end of the bridge, pulled over and shut off the car. Once I started it, no problems driving in 5th gear for the next 45 minutes.
Error codes were P1790 and P1529.
Added a bit more ATF fluid since it seemed low, the "check engine light" turned itself off. I drove at 65 mph for about 45 minutes and felt the front end dip again as the tranny slipped into the 3rd gear. Again, I had to pull over, shut off the engine and turn it back on again.
Because I don't really have the funds for another car at the moment, I have been driving it in 4th gear with a top speed of around 60 mph. The "check engine light" turned off after the last slip, but I have been receiving so many opinions.
I'm pretty sure the transmission is going out....
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I have a 2006 hyundai sonata, which has possibly the worst designed cup holder of all time. Because of this awful design flaw, I stopped my car at a light yesterday and some of my coffee spilled into the gear shift box. Now when I am in regular D, it appears the car stays in 1st gear. This sonata also has the option of pushing the stick to the right so you can manually shift gears.. I think it's called sports mode or something. When I try that, I can shift it up to 2nd, but I drops right back down to 1. I left it overnight, hoping it was just some wet electronics and would dry, but this morning the problem persists. Not sure if there's a fix for this, if I should take it to a transmission place, or just my regular mechanic. Someone suggested contact cleaner, which I might have I just have to look.
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I accidentally "popped the clutch" while parking in my driveway and now there's something wrong with the clutch pedal!!
I let the car stall out on accident and somehow had the clutch engaged while in gear and forgot or something and when I released the pedal while still in gear, the car tried to start, but I pushed the clutch in instead of letting it start and now the clutch pedal is all the way to the floor, there is no tension, like a spring came loose, but this is a hydraulic clutch so there wouldn't be a spring, right? What did I do?? And how can I fix it?
2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS
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2000 Hyundai Sonata 2.4 L engine, transmission drops from 4th gear to 3rd gear at cruising speed (65mph) and locks into 3rd gear, I have to stop and turn the key off and start the engine again to reset the A/T what do you think is happening?
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While driving our car I heard a loud popping sound and had to call roadside assistance. I was informed that the frame had cracked which probably caused the axle to drop. The car is part of a class action suit for corrosion of the frame. Customer service says that they will cover any damages to the car as a result of problems with the frame. If the local Hyundai asks for payment, Should I have the car fixed and submit the bill to the main office for reimbursement?
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I had to stop quick today. My ice water spilled into the gear shift lever. A mile down the road my rpms went up high and the car barely moving.
2006 Hyundai Sonata...
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I have the service manual for my Entourage. I want to change the ATF. It says to disconnect the hose to the oil cooler and then to run the car in neutral to drain the fluid (for up to one minute), and then to remove the drain plug to get the remaining fluid out. Then replace the plug and add new fluid. No gasket / filter change necessary.
My question is... where is the oil cooler on this vehicle, and which hose do I disconnect?
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent with about 120,000 miles on it. Last summer, it started jerking badly from park to 1st and 1st to 2nd for the first five or ten minutes that I drove it. It stopped during the winter (Texas winter, so a mild fall in most places with seasons), the check engine light never came on, and the transmission fluid was fine (both color and volume), so I didn't get it checked out. Now that it's summer again, the jerking has started back up. I've also noticed in the last few weeks weak acceleration after stopping (again, usually only in the first ten minutes or so of driving). And today my check engine light came on.
I've checked the fuses, and I just got my oil changed (they said the check engine light was giving them a transmission code, but didn't elaborate). I have a leaking valve cover gasket and cracked belts that I'll be repairing ASAP. Is it possible that either of those are causing this problem?
Since I'm a single young woman, I don't want to go into a shop without being fully informed (I can't tell you how many times I've been ripped off). My research suggested a couple things:1. It might be the coil packs.2. I might need a new transmission.
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Our 2002 Hyundai Elantra is having issues. It shifts fine, no need to double-clutch. It stays in gear. Doesn't grind or anything crazy like that. It does seem like it isn't getting power to the drivetrain, and is having trouble climbing hills. This all came on very suddenly. Hubby thinks it's the clutch -- I think it may be the bushings. Though now, I'm wondering if it's something else? Since it's not having trouble shifting, should we be looking at the fuel system? Sensors? Engine seals?
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168k and going strong..kinda. At @35mph it shutters then seems to go into gear. At @ 45mph it revs and the techomter goes above 2k rpms and it feels like I'm using the brake pedal, but I am not. Simple fix(not alot$$) or major? PS, I've changed trans fluid but no luck. If I stay below 45, no problem. Seems 3+4th gear have me stumped?
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I have a 2010 Volvo XC60 T6 AWD. I am encountering an issue with the transmission lurching, usually between 2nd and 3rd gear. While accelerating, the RPMs increase normally and when it tries to shift, it disengages 2nd, waits and the RPMs shoot up another 500-1000 before shifting into 3rd, giving the entire car a big lurch. It doesn't happen every time, but mostly when the when car hasn't been running for long. Another aspect is that the engine seems slightly underpowered when this occurs. The car runs great the rest of the time.
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I have a 1998 bmw 528i (e39) with 200k on it. It runs and drives like a dream except for one little thing.... when shifting into the next gear at around 25mph, if I let off the gas just before it shifts it clunks as it shifts into the next gear. However, if I accelerate through the gear change it is smooth as can be and has no problems through the gears.
Secondly and I believe unrelated, I am also looking for the location of a transmission temperature sensor... I have heard they tend to fail and can cause issues with shifting until the car is up to running temp. I experienced an issues with it once not wanting to shift out of 1st gear until it warmed but that was before a filter and fluid change. Since that, I haven't any issues, but I want to be prepared just in case with one on hand ready to go in.
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This problem started at the beginning of this winter. So I started to idle for 2 mins and the car was shifting without an issue.
However, now it is completely stuck and wont shift to 3rd gear even if I drive for 15 mins at 60mph.
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I have a 2009 Kia Rio5 that has started to have a strange, intermittent issue. It's an automatic and sometimes when I turn my car on and go to put it in to gear, the car sort of shudders and it feels like something is having a hard time moving in the front of the car. The act of shifting is easy but it sounds/feels like the car is having trouble with it. Then, when I get going, the shift up from 1st to 2nd has the same symptom. The car shudders, there is some lag, and then it goes in to gear. After that it feels, but is hard to determine, that it doesn't downshift after it goes up into a higher gear. When I slow down my RPMs drop to an oddly low amount and accelerating from a stop is quite different. The car has ~33k miles on it and the transmission fluid looks ok. There are no lights indicating an error.
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It is a 2001 1.8T Golf, automatic. 75000 miles on it, mostly highway. I returned from my recent road trip, halfway across the country, which involved a couple of snow storms but otherwise everything ran smoothly.The day after I got back, I was going to dinner and the car wouldn't shift up out of 1st gear... unless I gunned it to almost 40 mph. Next time I started it, the check engine light turned on. I have driven it 3 miles, twice, since then and the problem remains. What the problem might be, if I'll need to replace transmission or just some fluid, or get a new car?
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I've been have been having a problem with my car. It initially started at Christmas when I went up to MI for a visit. It would have problems shifting into gear after reversing. At first I just thought it was because it wasn't used to the really cold weather as we live in AL.When I returned it still did it, I would try the other gears available on the auto transmission and it still seemed to have a problem shifting from 1 to 2. It would slow down and you could rev the engine and it still would not shift.
All of a sudden it would kick and shift and you could drive. This only happened the first time you drove it that day. It would also kick very slightly when you went below 30mph. It doesn't do that anymore.I went for another visit up north and while I was there it started kicking whenever I was over 60mph. When i got back to AL I took it into the dealership as the check engine light came on. It now kicks all the time regardless of speed, though does it less at lower speeds, but if there is exertion on the engine like a hill, it kicks, kicks, kicks. When it kicks the rpm goes down and up.The dealer said that the things that needed to be changed are:- front assembly trans pump- crank sensor- gasket- oil pan.
I've tried taking it to a transmission place to have just the pump changed for less and all they wanted to do was give me a whole new transmission. This car is on it's third transmission as far as I know and a new/rebuilt one was just put in 2 years ago.After talking with my father (who was a engineer) he told me a way to check if the crank sensor a problem was to have the car in neutral and rev the engine. He said that it would still do the same problems if it was the crank sensor. I did this and it did not kick at all.Is there any real way of knowing if it is really the pump that is causing all these problems or if it really needs a new transmission or something else.
Chrysler Town and Country, 2003, 134K ...
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