Hyundai - Sonata - Suspension - Struts :: 2005 - Sways Violently Side To Side At High Speed?
Mar 2, 2011
It is like floating peacefully along in a canoe on a calm lake, and then being passed by a speed boat. Our 05 Hyundai Sonata sways/rocks violently left to right at speeds higher than 50 mph, when going over bumps, or around curves to the right. It also happens when being passed by tractor trailers on the highway, and when high wind gusts hit the car. It is worse when the car is full of our family and luggage. We just drove from New Hampshire to Georgia and back dealing with this frightening problem the whole way. The Hyundai dealership in Buford Georgia said it was our struts, so we get new rear struts. Unfortunately we discovered that was not the problem once we hit the highway to head home. The problem persisted. Our local mechanic in New Hampshire does not see anything wrong, but said it is missing the splash shield under the engine which may cause uneven wind pressure. I truly feel that something is very wrong, but do not know what.
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My 2002 hyundai sonata drives fine but when i drive it on poth holes or rough roads, the car sways. What the problem is?
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We noticed that the air conditioner in our 2000 Hyundai Accent isn't as effective as it once was and I began to investigate. My hypothesis was that the car is 10 years old and may just have over time become low on refrigerant. After checking that my car does indeed use a R-134a based system, I purchased a canister of refrigerant with a hose and gauge for connecting the canister. Following the directions on the product, I attached the gauge and operated the A/C at full blast. Initially the pressure read 45 psi which would suggest that the system was probably about where it should be given the outside ambient temperature. I continued to observer the gauge and over a few minutes the pressure rose to around 100 PSI before the compressor stopped turning (the clutch released, so the outside of the pulley turned normally, but the center of the pulley stopped.) As expected the cool air ceased and the blower at this point only moved around the warm air still in the cab.
All I have done at this point is observe the pressure on the low side of A/C system and witnessed the compressor stopping when the pressure got high. My suspicion at this point is there is a much bigger problem for me find? I know I can always take the car to a specialist, but I was really hoping for a simple and economical do it yourself solution.
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I'm driving Hyundai Elantra 2005 (manual transmission). When the car slows down (no gas pedal, no brake), it makes metallic noise on the right side. It mostly happens when RPM is between 1,500-2,000. When I press the clutch pedal, the noise disappears immediately. I brought the car to a local mechanic once, but he could not figure it out.
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I have a 2007 Hyundai Sonata. It has about 55K miles. I really like my car and outside of regular maintenance since I bought it I've had no issues, until now. I bought it used 1.5 years ago, and it is a prior salvage (back-end wreck). My Dad is an auto body mechanic though also knows the non-auto body stuff, and he looked it over thoroughly and test drove it with me and said it was in great condition.
I'm going to try to explain this best I can, I'm not a car person though. When I turn left not from a complete stop, so when I'm turning left and there is no stop sign or stop light and I do not need to yield, it sounds like I have a bag of sand or something and all of the weight and sand is shifting from one side to the other. Oh, and I had my mechanic father drive it, he can't hear it because he's very hard of hearing. My Mom heard it though.
The noise sounds like its coming from the front passenger side. I checked the front glove compartment to make sure it wasn't just something shifting around in there.
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I have uneven pad wear on the front discs. The passenger side has about 1/8" pad left, while the driver's side is almost new. The car pulls to the passenger side on braking.
I've had a bad hose on a different car which caused a caliper to lock (and actually lit the pads on fire!), but both calipers are moving when the brakes are applied.
What I'm trying to figure out is how to determine which side and component is defective. It seems to me that a partially blocked hose or iffy caliper on the driver's (unworn) side could cause it to have low power. How do I diagnose this?
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I'm driving a 2010 Hyundai Sonata and just recently one of my brake lights has been acting up. Everything works perfectly fine as long as the head lights are off; however with the head lights on, when I depress the brake pedal my driver's side tail/brake light goes out. The center brake light and passenger side brake light work just fine regardless of the head lights being on or off. With the headlights off, all the brake lights operate normally when the pedal is depressed.
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So I have an 06 Sonata with 56k miles on it. A few months back it started squeaking by the struts. It got worse last month and was pretty loud when going over speed bumps. Especially in the mornings
During my research on replacing them I came across a you tube video of a guy using AT-205 resealer to fix the squeak. Of course I bought some and was about to try it out but noticed that there was a lot of dirt and grime around the struts and other rubber mounts.
I decided before using the AT-205 I should clean everything first. Took some degreaser and sprayed everything I could see, including any other rubber mounts in the area. Rinsed thoroughly with water. Let it dry overnight and before applying the AT-205 decided to see if there was any change. To my surprise, there is no more squeaking. (It has only been 2 days though).
Hopefully it will not come back otherwise will use the AT-205 and failing that, will have to take the plunge and replace the struts.
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What the defective part could be? GS300 has run 90.000km, sound can be recognized by passing for example gullys or small bumps with speed of ~20km/h. Increasing speed let the sound disappear. I have already replaced stabilizer bar bushes, link assy and lower ball joint assy.
Attached a linked sound file [URL] .....
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I have a 2005 hyundai accent, 62000 miles. When I accelerate there is a vibrating/rattling noise that sounds like it's in the back left side. It only happens sometimes. It happens when i accelerate slowly or up a hill, and if i press on the gas it stops. I thought it was the muffler, but I got the car inspected in May and it was fine. It's been doing it since before then. My dad said it might be a loose heat shield vibrating. It seems to be getting more frequent with humid weather. Should I be worried?
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My wife drives a 2010 Hyundai Elantra with a 5speed manual trans with about 40K mi on it . We purchased the service maintenance package that covers all scheduled major and regular maintenance. A year ago they replaced the head gasket because they discovered a small oil seep. Well a couple of weeks ago I noticed that the heat is fine on the drivers side and blows cool on the passenger side. This is a problem particularly when defrosting the windshield.
When she brought it in for the next scheduled service a couple of days ago I asked that she mention this problem to the service people. Their response was "we need to do a cooling system flush which would not be covered by the service contract" to the tune of a couple a hundred bucks. The coolant is the transparent green it should be due to it being changed one year ago so I have my doubts about it being the heater core.
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My Hundai Azera 2009, was blowing heat on both side of a "dual system" during the cold months. Now that its warm weather when I turn on the A/C it blows cold on driver side vents , but hot air on passenger side. What do I need to correct this.
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Looking for a suspension diagram that can be shared for this model? I need to fix the squeaking noise from front passenger side and would like to have an overview pic of the suspension system.
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Having suspensions creaking sounds coming from the back left/right side? A friend of mine has the sonata too but is having the sound coming from the left, mine is on the right.
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So I just got my sonata back from the dealer, they fixed an intermediate problem i was having with the starter solenoid when it rained. car wouldn't turn over when key was turned for about 20 clicks.. (free under warranty and got a loaner!) new starter and solenoid!
But when I got my car back i noticed a new humming coming from the AC (passenger side dash) when it was on high.. i never really noticed it before.. do you think this could be from the cabin filter? or the tech that worked on the car messed with the blower?
I was thinking about going back to the dealer and asking my service advisor about the noise.. and if he said it was normal i would walk over to the sales dept and ask to test drive one of their NF's to see if the AC made the same noise.. and either leave the dealer knowing it's a normal sound, or drive the test vehicle up to the service advisor and ask him why this sonata doesn't make that noise?
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Is this dangerous? just started: subaru outback 2003...
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I have a strange problem. My driver side low beam dont work and my right side high beam dont work. Try different relay (switching), check fuse, bulb etc. Also in my dashboard the right green arrow for the flasher always still on(solid).
If I activate (with the control arm) the right turn flasher the flasher light blink in the dash board and my outside flasher bulb flash but my left high beam also blinking in the same time!
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My 2006 Prius (Model NHW20) has a strange headlight problem. On the passenger side, the high beam light is out but the regular headlight works.
On the driver side, the high beam is working but the regular headlight is out.
I don't think it's the fuses but I'm not sure. No amount of interchanging the following fuses changes anything about the issue:
1. 10A H-LP HI RH
2. 10A H-LP HI LH
3. 15A H-LP LO RH
4. 15A H-LP LO LH
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We took my 08 Touring down to Florida for our vacation, and while she performed great- {average 28-32mpg @ 70ish mph} -she fell shy of expectations when we hit a few light rains. At speeds above 70 the drivers wiper blade would clear on the up stroke but not on the down stroke....yes, 1st thoughts are go slower, but that isn't a real answer for me.
Before leaving I installed new brakes {rotors/pads/hardware} all around, new Michelin tires {all 5} and "new wiper blades" {rain-X}. The new brakes were very useful going thru the stop and go traffic in Atlanta, the new tires were very useful in the twisties of Tennesee's hills...but the wipers had me getting lapped often on the way back home due to the lifting issue above 70, so I kept to 65-70mph.
The way I see it, it's either the wiper blades not having enough "ramp" on the blade for the wind to push it down at speed, or the wiper arm tension spring is going soft.
My car is an '08 with 154k...{no leaks/motor still has great power/went 3400 miles and she didn't burn a drop of oil!}.
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I've got a 1271 code and I can't seem to make it go away. Code definition is "High side to Low side open Cyl 1". The truck runs fine, no rough idle, no excessive smoke of any color, just the damn CEL light stays on. I check the UVCH and all the injectors ohm in at 2.7 ohms. I've already done the updated clips under the covers. I run all the buzz tests and KOEO/ KOER tests and all appears OK. My AE won't do a Cyl contribution test. All the injector data shows all 0.00. I know its not that perfect. "high to low open", does that mean I've lost a ground? If so where?
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So I noticed a while back when I bought this car that my driver's side side-view mirror was a little loose. I didn't think anything of it back then b/c it still worked fine. Then just a couple of weeks ago the driver's side side-view mirror fell & hung by the wires connected to it. I can put it back to how's is supposed to be but it's really loose now. So I looked at the plastic pieces that hold this thing in place and I saw this:
If I put it back where it's supposed to be it stays up there but is very loose!
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