Hyundai - Sonata - Batteries :: Spitting And Sputtering Randomly?
Nov 20, 2011
one morning my car was spitting and sputtering then ran fine once the engine light went off. So I took it to auto zone to check the battery and they said it was the dead and fusible link, even though no battery light was on. Afterward, i realized the fusible link was turnings because the battery light was never on and positive terminal was the issue. Ever since they put in the new battery and fusible link now the fusible link keeps blowing. the one thy put in lasted 1 day, then I had the positive terminal and fusible link replaced at Hyundai dealer which last 6 days then link broke again. I replace the link, start the car no battery light, I shut the car off and turn it back on, and link breaks again. I have tried this 3 times. I did make sure no wires were under the battery and all bolts were tight. I know some ppl say alternator but that is on opposite side of the car and fusible link is on top of the battery. there was no issue with the fusible link before replacing, which is why I can't see it being the alternator.
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I was sitting in a drive through line, and my 2002 Ford F-150 started spitting, sputtering and then died. I restarted it several times, not getting anything but the spitting and sputtering again and then nothing else. I was told by a friend it HAD to be the fuel pump, now I am being told it HAS to be the ignition coil. My friend is a shade-tree mechanic and now I am not certain I trust his judgement.
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2000 with the 5.4 liter ... 263,000 miles ...
My old girl tends to spit and sputter especially when taking off from a stoplight. I put my foot in her and get the rpm's around 3000 and she starts acting right. Is it something more than say the obvious spark plugs or fuel additive??
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My trailblazer started with the spitting and sputtering (misfiring) last week. Over 100,000 miles on it, ya, in need of a tune up. So for obvious reasons new spark plugs seemed to be the logical choice. If it wasn't the problem, it can't hurt to change them. Truck's SES light did not come on, but truck was running pretty crappy, more when it was cold than hot, but definetely a loss of power. There is also a slight exhaust leak starting, where abouts right now I haven't pinpointed, deaf in one ear so it's hard to tell where it is coming from.
So I had my brother in law install the new spark plugs. We took the old ones out and 4 and 5 cylinder plugs had oil on them. Ah great, valve cover gasket and the gaskets the spark plugs sit on (don't ask me, not a mechanic lol) need to be changed. Started with just the plugs for now. Started truck up, still had a bit of vibration on idle, like it would from an exhaust leak, but still didn't seem right . But an even more noticable loss of power when driving, truck doesn't seem to want to get above forty.
Now my SES light is flashing almost consistently unless I'm stopped (idled). It almost feels like the cat is clogged. Did smell a heavier than normal gas smell when changing out the plugs. I know that the flashing SES almost certainly means a misfire. But why would it all of a sudden come on after changing the plugs? Tomorrow I am going to my friends garage who has the scanner tool (not just the one that reads codes) to see if it is a bad coil pack and to see if there is a specific cylinder that is misfiring.
But there is something about that exhaust leak that is leading me to believe it is the culprit of my problems. Leak came first, then the misfiring. Could the cat be clogged, which blew a hole in the exhaust and cause a misfire? And the new plugs just made the misfiring worse to cause the SES light to come on? Is there anything else I should check besides a faulty coil pack and compression check (even though I should have done that when I changed the plugs, but live and learn).
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ok,up to yesterday, my wife's car started and ran fine. but we had not driven it in about 3weeks, and it was on empty. well, my kids would listen to the radio and, i think, starting it while we were at work. anyway, they ran it out of gas. so put gas in it, 3gallons, turned the key on and off a couple of times to get a good prime. started it up, died, i figured not enough fuel, yet tried again. started, but started spitting and sputtering and idling really ruff, had to hold to the floor to keep it running. removed the maf. it started and did the same. finally, i held down the gas and brake at the same time, took off to the store, got gas, but it died half way there. got it to the pump, put more gas thinking that's the problem. nope, the same. got it home, but when i let off the gas, it idles like it's not getting fuel and dies. so, any clue what it is? remember, 3 weeks ago it ran fine.
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My 2000 Ranger standard 4.0 4x4, started spitting and sputtering the other morning just when i was gone up hills then it would quit doing it. The other evening it got to where it don't idle, missing very bad, and wouldn't even pull itself up a slight grade, and the wife said there was flames and sparks coming out the exhaust. Now it wont even try to start, it just turns over. I put a different coil pack, wires, and plugs, and still nothing. I pulled the gas line off the frame fuel filter and its shooting gas out, and I got gas to the check port on top of the engine.
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My son has a 2012 F250 King Ranch, 6.7 L.
Little info: Last Friday the inter-cooler hose blew. We changed the hose this past Saturday. The truck ran great all weekend. Last night leaving for work it started to sputter and then died. Got the truck to crank, ran great no sputter, but something under the hood sounded off. We drove it all the way back home. Killed it, re-cranked it, everything was fine.
This morning cranked the truck, ran fine for 5 min then died and would not crank. We decided it needed new fuel filters. Replaced the fuel filters, truck now cranks and idles great. When you mash the gas at it revs up then sputters like it would die, when you let off the accelerator it catches up and idles fine again. It cant be too much wrong, it ran great all weekend.
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I have a 2007 hyundai sonata. The car sometimes and randomly won't 'turn-over'. I get a check-engine light but this may go away, also. I've gotten stuck at random locations and if I wait maybe 10-15 minutes, the car sometimes starts again.
The worst incident was when the car started but would not go past 10-15mph.
I've taken the car to a garage and they've checked the computer and it seems to indicate a throttle issue. They cleaned it and the car was fine for a couple of weeks, but now having similar incidents where it randomly won't start.
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We got "bad" gas in Feb, 2016, had to replace entire fuel system. Haven't driven the truck but 4000 miles. Last week, she started spitting and sputtering and lost power. We could see fuel pouring out. NO CEL. Towed (AAA has paid for itself several times over with this truck) to dealer that replaced the fuel system, still waiting to hear from them. Does this sound like it should be under the warranty for the work they did? We have averaged a huge repair bill about every 3-4 months on this truck, 2011 F250 Lariat, 8cyl, 6.7L, since we bought it 2 years ago.
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I have a 2010 Sonata and the gas has been spitting back out when I'm refueling. I'm thinking there may be some sort of blockage in the fuel vent line. The problem is, Where that is... 2010 Sonata.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Tuscon. If we go out of town, or any time we don't drive the Tuscan for three days or more we always come back to a dead battery. I mean really dead. I mean, get a new battery dead. Since 2005 when we bought the vehicle new, we've had nine—9—new batteries put in. The last one was a heavy duty battery recommended by the dealer.
This problem started after the dealer replaced the OEM radio. We've had multiple checks done on the engine to find out where the (battery) draw is coming from. I researched and found a Hyundai Technical Service Bulletin saying that the problem is from a defective stereo. But my dealer says they can't locate the problem.
We've also had the battery posts cleaned and other things done. The vehicle runs fine and has had few problems except for this nagging battery problem.
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Over the last several weeks my car (2010 Hyundai Accent, 60k miles) started randomly stalling on me. I took it to my mechanic earlier this week and all 4 ignition coils were replaced. Yesterday I accidentally left my headlights on for about 2.5 hours and the car was completely dead. I got it jumped and drove it around for about 35 minutes. I had the battery tested at Autozone and they said it is good. Then last night it stalled in the McDonald's line - I was able to restart it and get home but this morning it is completely dead again. Also twice yesterday after starting up the car the rpm dial wasn't moving at all. The car was accelerating just fine but the rpm dial did not reflect this. Of the several times I drove it yesterday it only did this twice. Someone told me to bring the battery to Autozone to get it fully charged, but does that explain the rpm dial not moving?
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About a year ago, I tried to top off the tank of my 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe. Since that time, the car has been sputtering as soon as a fill up. It doesn't sputter at other times. I have heard that I may have damaged my evaporation system. I have taken it to quite a few mechanics who tried to work on the evap system, but they could not solve the problem. Is there a simple and easy way to fix this??
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Was driving one day, and when I came to a stop sign, the car just died.. I couldn't start it up, so I pushed it to the side of the road.. I tried to turn the key again, and it fired right up... No issues for about a week, but then I came outside one morning, and the car was completely dead. No interior lights, dash wouldn't light up, nothing. (no cranking noise when you try to turn the key) I assumed it was because the battery was old, and the car had just been sitting there for about a week without being started up. I was about to give it a jump, but when I opened the door, the lights came on. I put the key in the ignition, the dash lit up, and the car fired right up.. No issues for about a week, until again, came outside, car was completely dead..
I used my other car to run up to the store, and when I came back, decided I would try to start up the DeVille again. Randomly, upon opening the door, the cabin lights lit up, and sure enough, car fired right up... no one had touched the car while I was gone.. I drove the car up to a shop near my house, where they tested the battery, which tested good. Terminals are all clean, and he made note that the ground connection to the car was also firm and clean. He offered to run a diagnostic the following Tuesday for $125. I returned home, drove the car once more over the weekend, but when I went to start the car Monday, it was again, completely dead. It's been over a week now, and I haven't been fortunate enough to get it to start. I again tried this morning in hopes that I would get lucky, but it's still completely dead.
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I have a 2013 Hyundai Azera with the 3L V6. I only use 93 octane gas (as recommended) and only use either Shell or Chevron. Each day, when I get in the car for the first time, I can count on it running rough and having inconsistent performance and some minor sputtering or misfiring (don't know the difference) until the car gets warm. Once it gets warm, all is well. It has 24k miles. Any thoughts on what may be the root cause? Should I change the fuel filter so soon? Does that matter being it gets better when it warms up?I change the oil religiously whenever the computer in the car tells me it is time to do so and use Mobil 1 synthetic.
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So I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent that has been a relatively good car for the 11 years I've owened it. About 2 months ago I got a flat tire, which I didn't notice until a passenger in another car told this while waiting at a stop light. I was so close to home (within a mile) that i decided to trek it slowly back. Made it back and a friend of mine put a donut on and I had the two front tires replaced the next day.
Within a week of having the tire changed I noticed several issues with the car. First, it was starting to make a very loud, almost grinding sound. Looked into whether or not tires had anything to do with it since I just had them changed. I pretty much now think its a wheel bearing. It seems to be coming from the right front passenger side. It gets louder as I speed up and also especially loud during left curves and turns.
But all that is background for my real problem. In addition to the above the transmission started acting up. At first I though it was the engine because the problem was initially just sputtering whenever I would slow the car down to a stop. I changed the spark plugs and wires but that didn't work. Then it started having problems shifting. Even going to 3rd now it can take a while, staying at a higher than normal rpm. And when it finally shifts it knocks hard. Only thing I did was have the transmission oil changed since it was about 40k miles past where Hyundai says it should have been done. That worked only slightly (maybe not at all). On top of that, there's also has an engine smell (like hot burnt oil) inside the car when I drive it for an extended amount of time. This was happening before and after the transmission oil change.
These are the first major issues I've had with this car. The only exception is that I've had a failed oxygen sensor twice but that was cheap to have repaired and both times the check engine light was on. It has not turned on once since this started happening. I've stopped driving the car long distances and especially over hills. I go 5 miles between home and work with it now. I was starting to think about getting another car before this happened but I'm still not ready to do that now.
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I got my oil changed and tires balanced Saturday at the local shop around the corner. Now my alarm goes off randomly and when I use the clicker thing to lock the car, the horn doesn't make the beep sound it used to on the the second click. It never did this prior to having the oil changed, but how could that have anything to do with the alarm? I need to figure out how to make it stop, it's waking me (and my neighbors) up at night, and I have to keep leaving where ever I am to go out and see if the dang thing is going off again, which it is about half the time.
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My daughter's 2008 Elantra starts fine and seems to be idling okay. But recently at seemingly random times the car will stall within a few yards after she starts driving from a cold start. She will start the car, start to drive and then all of the dash lights come on and the engine shuts off. So far she has been able to turn the key and immediately restart the car and then it is fine after that. The problem always seems to occur after she has driven somewhere, let the car sit for a couple hours and then tries to drive again. We took to our mechanic and they said there are no diagnostic codes and the fuel pressure seems good. They did identify some kind of voltage drop/issue with the mass airflow sensor and replaced it. But a day later the problem occurred again. Mechanic seems stumped. I'm very worried about my teenage daughter driving a car that randomly stalls.
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My 2008 Hyundai Elantra likes to play KeepAway.
The driver's door randomly locks itself when I get out of the car. Just the driver's door. I have learned either to make sure the others are unlocked or to take my keys with me, even if it's just to pump gas.
Might this be some easily replaceable or resettable circuitry, or do I just have to live with it?
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I have a new 2013 Hyundai Accent (automatic, 4 cylinder) with less than 1500 miles on it. The day I drove it off the lot and up until today, it randomly smells like burning rubber. It happens whether it is hot or cold, driven two miles or thirty miles. The smell is coming from under the hood but I know very little about engines, so I'm not sure what it is. I have told the dealership and they don't seem to care. I may not know much about cars but I know that that smell is not normal, especially in a new car. What could be causing this...
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Okay so I haven't driven my car in a couple of days, and when I started it today it started sputtering and shaking like it wasn't getting gas. I let it do this for about ten seconds to see if it would set a check engine light but it didn't. I shut off the car and restarted it, then it ran perfect.
I have had this happen to other cars if I let off the key too fast, but I don't think I did that today, I turned the key the normal amount of time. It only has 20k miles on it.
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