Hyundai - Sonata - Alternators :: 2002 - Battery Lights Comes On While Water Got Into Engine Compartment
Feb 14, 2011
I currently own a 2002 Hyundai sonata that was purchased brand new I have mostly kept up with the general maintenance spark plugs, air filters, oil changes, etc. but have been lenient on some of the less noticeable things such as belts background history: my car's alternator has tested fine at multiple places (Walmart and advance auto parts) but when I had tested it, it had only produced around 30 amps when it was built to producing about 90, i assume this is because of a bad diode.
I thought i could just use it until it completely died (despite the fact that it could harm my battery) because I'm still in school and cant afford a lot at the moment, but last night when I was driving home (it was wet out with deep puddles) and I drove through a rather deep puddle with a lot of water getting into the engine compartment. (i have driven this car through many puddles some making a much larger splash, with no problems what so ever.) shortly after I left for work and my batter light was on, I tried different things like turning the AC on high to see if they worked better at high revaluations to find out whether it was the battery or the alternator, as it turns out the fan maintained a constant speed and after work my car started.
I got about 20 feet and it died, my Friend came to charge my car but when he jumped me, the alternator started working again even though not 30 minutes ago it was not, the same thing happened to me today (same puddle same rout) the alternator didn't work going to work and it miraculously did when i went home my alternator is obviously bad and needs to be changed, but is it the alternator causing this problem, or something else?
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I have a 2007 Sonata. The parking lights won't switch off without a turning the lights on and off for some time. Repeated attempts can turn them off, but you have to check the car in a hour to see if they have come back on. The dealer stated this was a known defect of the fuse box assy, but there is no recall. 800.00 repair according to the dealer.Without an alternative, I am considering ordering the assy and changing myself.
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So after getting a right axle changed on a 2008 Sonata my bloody check engine light come on right after leaving the repair shop at closing. 5 minutes later at home I checked under the car to see the axle repair and noticed a water dripping from the back of the engine. It only lasted a few minutes. So the next day I had the engine warning light coded and it turned out to be a' heated oxygen sensor heater control circuit low.' From an auto code website:
"Water getting inside the heated oxygen sensor connector can cause the heated oxygen sensor fuse to blow, which is a very common problem for this type code."
The water was dripping right below where the oxygen sensor is located. It wasn't raining that day.Could a repair shop accidentally or worse yet cause this to happen to increase repairs. How would you proceed at the repair shop?
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Just changed out my 12v battery in my 2008 Prius, I found water in the battery compartment. There have been heavy rains this past weekend but it should not have entered the car.
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OK, I've been reading a lot about this problem occurring in the pre 2010 prius where there is a crack around the hatch that fills the 12V battery well with water. About a month ago, I started getting a whiff of something rotting. A mix of the dead smell and rotting fruit. I was certain one of my kids left some food in the car or something got in the HVAC vent. As time has gone by, the odor has changed to more of a rotting leaves kind of smell.
I got out my shopvac and a snake camera. I went through the HVAC system and found that the filter was pulled back a bit. I replaced it on the spot. I found a few leaves and dust and that was it. The air coming from the vents from the outside smells clean. There were lots of wet leaves in the engine bay, but it wasn't the problem.
I started tearing apart the trunk because sometimes stuff spills into the tire well. I found the spare tire had turned brown on the tread.
I opened the battery compartment and found about an inch of standing milky white water. The kicker here is that the water didn't seem to smell that bad! I dried it all up and bleached the metal to kill any mold that might be in the residue...but the odor remains. The car smells awful!
I have torn apart the back of the car but I cannot find the source of the leak. I actually think it was from the car wash or going through a puddle and water got in the rear vent. The battery fender vent vanes were flapping with gusts of wind today, but even after a heavy rainstorm no new water has gotten in.
The car was hit in the parking lot and the rear fender moved about an 1/8th of an inch from the bumper, but there are no obvious signs of water entry anywhere... in fact, I was even suspicious that it might have come from the battery itself, but I didn't touch it (used paper towels on a snake to dry it up under there). I didn't think to try baking soda to see if it was an acid, which makes bleach pretty stupid to use...but I didn't see any foaming.
TL;DR Found water in my 12V battery compartment. My car smells bad. Cleaning out water did not improve smell. Nothing in HVAC system, it is only clean air source in car. No signs of water ingress above 12v battery well. After rainstorm, no additional water found in battery well. Fender vent flaps in gusty wind, but still no new water.
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i have a 2011 prius II, and i noticed that rain water is leaking into the engine compartment. after i look at the hood design and how it closes, it was very obvious to me that water will leak into the engine compartment by design. i found this prius V picture online (i think it is very similar if not identical to my prius II). the blue pointers indicate holes and gaps where water can leak in, and the read circle indicates where water end up.
i have owned 2 other cars before this one, and i have never had rain water leak into engine compartment. do i have to worry about this?
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I have a 2013 Hyundai Sonata GLS 2.4L Engine and recently replaced the Battery and Spark Plugs myself. My car has 55,000 miles and I have had all the normal maintenance performed. The maintenance guide suggested the plugs be replaced at 45,000 miles I waited until 55,000 as I was not having any problems. The last couple of trips to auto shop showed the battery slowing losing the ability to retain a charge so it thought might as well replace now rather than later.
After changing the battery and plugs I went to fill up my Car with Gas and the MPG dropped. Normally when I fill up the car with gas the dashboard of my car would show 420 miles until empty. Recently when I filled up the car it showed 370 miles until empty. I am thinking this is due either to replacing the battery and having the computer reset or I set the gap on one or more plugs wrong. The car is not misfiring so I am thinking it is the replacement of the battery and resetting the computer. I was going to run the care for a couple of tanks and see if the MGP change. I am also going to monitor the mileage and see if it matches the overall MPG.
Is my thinking about the battery and computer resetting correct?
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My 2004 Honda Accord wouldn't start this morning. Immobilization indicator was blinking. After a bit, it started just fine, as the indicator stopped blinking. My thinking at this time was that it had rained torrentially the previous night, maybe some moisture had got into the circuitry and caused a little 'hiccup.' Then, as I drove, about 5 minutes later, the car started trying to stall. The check engine light came on, then the battery light came on and flashed. The engine ran erratically. Both check engine and battery lights started blinking erratically. At one point the dash beeped at me, like the warning sound it makes when the emergency brake is on while the car is moving. This got worse as I drove. I pulled over to the nearest shop. 2 hours of looking at the car, they said the camshaft sensor and the alternator needed to be replaced. .
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I just had a lower balljoint repaired on my 2006 hyundai Sonata. After 1 day, the battery dies. Had it jump started last night, and it's dead again this AM.
Could this at all be related to the ball joint repair? They don't seem related but it also seems like an odd coincidence since there were no other recent issues with my car. Thoughts?
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I have an 08 Sonata Limited. About a 3 months ago, a noise began appearing on the driver side, sounding like it was coming from the engine compartment, and it has become steadily worse.
Today, I am learned how to replicate the sound, but I cannot locate where it is coming from. Here is the scenario:
The sound is a squeaking, like 2 pieces of styrofoam being rubbed together. The sound comes and goes. The engine must be in Drive or Reverse, and under load, meaning the driver side tire must be on the ground. If I jack the car up so that the drivers side wheel is off the ground, and put it in D and let the tire turn freely the noise does not occur. The car does not need to be moving for the sound to occur; in fact, it sounds worse when the car is at rest.
Today, I jacked the car up and took off the drivers side front tire to see if I could identify the source of the noise. Later, I put the tire back on the hub, and without lowering the car, started to tighten the lug nuts. When, I tightened the nuts with a wrench, I began to slightly turn the axle and shift the location of the engine and lift it, and I heard the squeak! Obviously, the car was turned off, so I was able to repeatedly shake the wrench and slightly turn the wheel, which shook the engine, and repeat the squeak each time. I lowered the car and jacked up the passenger front side of the car and did the same thing; I was unable to get the sound to occur.
I could now identify the direction of the sound, and it was coming from under the air filter chamber. I tried removing the air filter box, but it is held in place by a rubber plug and the air intake tube. Unable to remove the box, I could not see exactly where the noise was coming from.
Is there a motor mount under the air intake box, or is there another part that may shift over time and begin to make this noise? My best guess is that when the car is in Drive and under load, the engine vibrations are causing something to make a squeaking sound.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Sonata V6 with around 257,000 miles on it.
Recently, it has been slipping out of 5th in automatic mode so I have been driving it in manual mode without utilizing the 5th gear. When I'm in 4th, the RPMs are around 2,200 so not that bad going 60 mph.
The first event was when I was accelerating onto the highway on a bridge going 65 mph and all of a sudden, felt a thud in the front end and the "check engine light" came on. I also noticed that the RPMs were registering way too high (way over 3,000k) so basically it sounded like I was going 65 mph in 3rd gear. I had to drive until the end of the bridge, pulled over and shut off the car. Once I started it, no problems driving in 5th gear for the next 45 minutes.
Error codes were P1790 and P1529.
Added a bit more ATF fluid since it seemed low, the "check engine light" turned itself off. I drove at 65 mph for about 45 minutes and felt the front end dip again as the tranny slipped into the 3rd gear. Again, I had to pull over, shut off the engine and turn it back on again.
Because I don't really have the funds for another car at the moment, I have been driving it in 4th gear with a top speed of around 60 mph. The "check engine light" turned off after the last slip, but I have been receiving so many opinions.
I'm pretty sure the transmission is going out....
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Our 2004 Santa Fe 6 cylinder ( front wheel drive) was being backed up when a Clunk was heard, and then the Battery and the Brake lights came on. My wife called the dealership and they say not to drive it, but to bring it to them. What could the issue be?
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Any way, my 2007 Sonata with 57,000 miles just developed a whining noise on the right side of the engine compartment. It sounds like it is concurrent with RPM and I thought it might be the alternator, the drive belt or some pulley. I have even seen on the general internet that some others had a bad oil filter. To me, the noise seems to be coming from the alternator area. It is a relatively high pitched noise that almost sounds like an electric motor. Would love to get it fixed. I am nearing the 60,000 max on replacement from certain items and do not know if the alternator is covered.
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2008 Sonata Limited.
When I accelerate from a stop there is a metallic rattling in the engine compartment. My best guess is that it is near the middle and near the firewall. Can't see much under the hood in this area.
The rattling stops after about 60km/h or so and does not happen at all during cruising otherwise.
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My 2002 hyundai sonata drives fine but when i drive it on poth holes or rough roads, the car sways. What the problem is?
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The speedometer on my 2002 Hyundai Sonata usually works, until it doesn't. This happens most often on longer trips. The speedometer starts fluctuating between 0 and my current speed and eventually gives up entirely. I've asked several dealers what the problem might be, but they've all said they can't find anything (of course it's always working when I take it in.) When the speedometer is not working, neither is the odometer or the cruise control. What could it be?
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My trunk light on the cluster gauge will not turn off. I removed the trunk light bulb so it wouldn't drain the battery but over the span of about a month the battery gets low enough not to start, so I'm assuming its keeping something else on in addition to the light. I only drive about 150 miles a month so it doesn't have much time to recharge even if it is a small draw. I disconnected the sensor in the trunk but the light is still on, The odd thing is that if I apply high G's from breaking or accelerating quickly, the light will turn off till I stop accelerating/decelerating (normal driving does not effect it). I'm thinking its probably a short from an aftermarket remote start/security system that was removed. I do not use the factory alarm so I do not care about the trunk sensor being disabled but I cant seem to figure out where to disconnect it from (pulling the fuse did nothing)and I assume I need to find the trunk/hatch pin wire that it is referring to. Or am I going about this all wrong?
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I recently bought a 1969 chevy c10 pickup. I have been having problems with the electrical system, the battery consistently going dead despite a new battery and alternator installed by the previous owner. Is there a step-by-step for diagnosis of this problem?
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I have a 2010 Sonata V6 that I bought new. It has a little less than 50K on it. I tried to start it today and it made a terrible noise then died seconds later. I popped the hood and then started it again and the engine was shaking violently in the engine compartment and making a terrible knocking noise. I had driven it 12 hours earlier and it ran fine. I called a tow truck and had it taken to the dealer but if I know my dealer, since it is Sunday they probably wont get to it until Tuesday. Also, this car has had the signature V6 valve cover leak that has been fixed 3 times. I noticed it was leaking again about a month ago and I have just been checking the oil and adding it as it needs it. I dont think the engine ran out of oil because I checked it before the tow truck came and it was between low and full.
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I purchased a brand new 2014 Sonata Limited 2 months ago and took it to the local dealer last night for two issues.
The first issue was small rust spots on the sillplate and the second is a very slight clicking noise I hear from the engine compartment now when I turn the temperature dial.
The dealer just called and said that the clicking is "normal". The car didn't do it for the first two months.
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I own a 2002 Camry XLE 4-cylinder with about 95,000 miles which is in excellent condition and well-maintained. Recently I began to hear a rattle, tapping or knocking sound apparently from the passenger side of the engine compartment (passengers agree with apparent location). It almost sounds like engine knocking, but the times it happens seem to rule that out. It could be some metal vibrating against something, but I can't hear it when I'm under the hood, and nothing appears loose. I've taken it to my trusted independent mechanic, but he couldn't duplicate the sound driving for 15-20 minutes on the freeway or see anything wrong when put on a lift. The sound doesn't occur all the time, of course; that'd be too easy.
The noise begins:
-after I've been driving 15 minutes or more
-after the car gets above 45-50 MPH, but when the noise finally begins, it will then occur down to as low as 30 MPH.
Last weekend I drove 1000 miles roundtrip on the freeway at 65-80 MPH; it didn't begin for 30 minutes, but continued most of the way to my destination (5.5 more hours), though it did seem to stop a few times. This week, my 20 minute drive to work, which has about 10 minutes on the freeway at 65, has not caused the noise to happen once.
Characteristics of the problem:
-the noise is not related to RPM; once it begins, it is about the same frequency and volume at 30 MPH as at 80 MPH
-it doesn't occur when in park or neutral and idling, even if the engine is revved, and even if the noise was just occurring on the freeway moments before
-it doesn't change when running over rough pavement or in turns
-it doesn't change when regular gas is replaced with premium (tried this last week to rule out engine knock, though the lack of RPM affecting it probably ruled that out already).
So it seems like it may be related to the speed of the car and perhaps the temperature of the engine or compartment. The hood latch appears to be holding tight with no play, the strut mounts were replaced 10K ago, and the wheel bearings check out fine.
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