Hyundai - Sonata :: Shaking Periodically At Higher Speeds
Sep 2, 2016
I have a 2012 Hyundai Sonata with a 2.0 turbo engine and just under 60,000 miles. Recently, I began noticing that at higher speeds (60+ mph), the whole car would periodically shake rather violently.
I took it to the dealership, where they informed me that I have:
1) three bent wheels
2) both CV joints loose
3) right inner tie rod wear/damage
4) something wrong with a "coupler" that I did not fully understand
Two questions: First, other than the occasional pothole, I haven't had any collisions with this vehicle. For a 60K mileage car, is this normal?? I've never had such extensive damage with a previous car.
Does that seem right given the problems listed? It is admittedly way more damage than I could've imagined.
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I posted a couple weeks ago about my sonata beginning to shake at speeds above 60 mph. I took it to a local dealer, who could not find a problem, so I took it to the dealer and they said I need to replace the rack and pinion, gat my car aligned and balance and rotate my tires. I am concerned this is not the problem and the dealership is trying to get money out of me, especially since I had my tires balanced before seeing them.This problem is intermittent and happens in the afternoon, not at morning or evening times. It takes about 15 mins to begin to shake and will stop if I get off the interstate and come to a full stop.
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My husband and I noticed that my Hyundai Elantra (2007) sounded rough when running over 60mph. The car has 61,000 miles on it and is due for an oil change, a radiator flush, and a fuel filter replacement. My manual says that the platinum coated (versus iridium coated) spark plugs would need to be replaced at 60K miles. I was told that the car would run rough at lower speeds if it was the spark plugs.
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My 2000 Forester recently started shaking while driving at highway speeds or while under engine load (hills, accelerating, etc). My first thought was that it was a problem with the alignment so I took it to my local tire shop. The car has 164K on it and has been without a Subaru specific mechanic since my last guy got fired a year ago, though I am trying to get an appointment with the only other Subaru mechanic in the area, outside of the dealership.
The tire shop found an issue with cupped tires (naturally they'd want to sell me tires) and told me that my passenger side rear CV joint was bad and they'd have to replace the axle. Since this sounded credible for the symptoms it was showing and they found me an axle, I told them to go ahead and replace it.
When I got it back the first time, I didn't see any great improvement in the shaking. I also noticed that they'd forgotten to put the bolt back into the bottom of my shock absorber. o_O When I brought it back to them, they fixed the missing bolt and agreed to keep it for a week to troubleshoot where else the shaking might be coming from. In the process, they replaced spark plugs and wires (which it probably needed anyway) and did an oil change, but the shaking is still there after all their tinkering. They suggested the problem may be in the timing and that I should have that checked out.
I don't think they're right about that. The vibration feels (to me) even more like a CV joint problem now than it did before. It shakes more violently and at slower speeds the longer it runs so by the time I get to work (40+ miles) it's almost constant. It stops shaking when you pop it into neutral and let it coast suggesting it's not timing or alignment - and making me think even more that it's something to do with the drive train.
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I have a 2000 Excursion 7.3, 6 position tune, and exhaust as far as mods (on truck when bought). Last couple of weeks I get no power while on the throttle, foot on the gas and the whole truck shakes at higher speeds - 40mph and above. At first it wouldn't go above 60 or so, would hit the gas and Rpms would just stop not be able to generate any further power. Changed the IPR, ICP, and CPS.
I still get the high/low range ICP codes, P1280, P1281. First night the IPR was changed I got it up to 90mph and thought it was all solved but got a little shake right at the top and I let off the gas. Next day back to square one and has seemed to get progressively worse, almost wasn't able to make it up a hill by my house not even going 20mph, but it's like intermittent. I have a scan tool, here is at idle and at around 60mph ....
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My 2009 SE V6, I have the grey cloth/leather combo and the drivers seat is pretty much cracking. I am not sure if it is cheap or the unusually cold winters we had here in MD. The car has 28,000. I am going to show to the dealer because in the cracks, the dye is coming off. I had a Trailblazer LTZ for 3 years and never seen that happen but it was tan leather.
Second, my car at higher speeds has a lot of wind noise, I think it is the mirrors. I am going back to the dealer for my 30k gouging soon and I will show them the seat again.
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My sonata has started having issues on the highway at speeds ~65-75 mph. It will start vibrating, a little at first and gradually getting worse. As this happens my brake pedal seems to be more firm and touchy rather than soft and needing more pressure to stop. The vibration can be felt in the steering wheel and the floor as I drive. This has happened twice so far, with a gap of about a week in between incidents. What should I get checked out?
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My Sienna's Got the Shakes! At around 30mph and higher, my 2004 Toyota Sienna starts with a constant vibration coming from the front end. It gets faster as the speed increases and it only happens when I'm accelerating... when I take my foot off the gas it goes away. I unknowingly bought the car with this problem, and I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to fix it or sell as is, but I'm getting stumped about the cause. A couple mechanics thought it is from bad motor mounts. I replaced the front mount because it was the easiest to access and could clearly be seen as cracked in the rubber. However, it didn't seem to change the vibration at all, and my mechanic then wasn't convinced that spending money on trying to replace the other mounts was going to do the trick. Another person took a look at it and didn't think it was the motor mounts either, but thought it was something in the drive train which would need to be checked out by the dealer which would be fairly costly. I would love to get it fixed because the rest of the minivan is in good condition.
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Is it possibly related to the blind spot detection system. I have had this happen to me once at an intersection (no lane change) and I thought someone was blowing their horn at me. My wife has had it happen on several occasions (never lane changes). This morning she was leaving he shopping mall at a stop sign and a car was coming down the cross street towards her (but not close) and there was this mysterious horn sound. I remember the salesman saying something about a warning sound when backing out of a parking space if a car was coming at you.
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So I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra, it is a manual transmission. I was having problems with the rpm's going higher than normal at random times while driving, then I noticed that the fluid in the clutch fluid reservoir was low. I determined that to be caused by a bad clutch slave cylinder that was leaking fluid. So I replaced the slave cylinder and that seemed to fix the problem, but now I am noticing that the car lacks power when I'm going up any sort of hill or trying to accelerate faster than normal.
When going up a hill the rpm's will go up and I have a hard time maintaining my speed. When trying to accelerate fast, as in pulling out in front of someone or similar situations, the car seems sluggish and it seems like I need to shift because the rpm's are high but I'm not going fast enough yet for the next gear.
This sounds like it would be some sort of problem-related to the clutch going bad or could the leaking slave cylinder have damaged the clutch. Or does this sound like more of a different problem, maybe something with a fuel filter or something?
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I have a 1999 Forrester "S", automatic with ~100k miles. This started intermittently but now is consistent. At about 45 mph or higher the rear of the car will shake with increasing intensity. It feels similar to a bad strut that allows the axle to hop. I have checked the balance on all the wheels, bearings feel free, nothing seems to be loose in the suspension, have placed the car on jack stands and run at 60+ with no vibration. My best guess is the carrier bearing or rubber suspension on the drive shaft. It is hard to evaluate in the car.
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I have an '07 Sonata and I just recently had an after market HID kit installed. My car has since periodically stalled and the check engine light came on. I ran the codes and they are P0698- Sensor C Reference Voltage CKT low, and P2110- Throttle Actuator Control System forced limited RPM. What does this mean and how can I fix it? I had a second battery installed so I know I have enough to power everything.
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I just bought my new 2010 Prius the day before I went on a 300 mile trip out of state. Dealer showed me the eco mode, which sounded like a good idea to me. Drove on the expressway, about 70 mph, decided lots of power was not necessary and I wanted the best mpg so I put the car in Eco mode. Drove great for about 250 miles, then all of a sudden, I began to lose power. Fortunately, I was nearing a rest park. Pulled in, was there long enough to take care a Rest Park business, started back up and car ran fine. BUT I did not use Eco mode. Question: When should I use this mode and when should I not?
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Just hit a fantastic Minnesota pot hole. Have a slight shimmy now at higher speeds, feels like its from the rear. Don't see any obvious dents in the rim, what else could I have bent back there? I'm wondering if this is psychosomatic and our roads just suck right now or if I really damaged something.
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Ok so the brakes are new and for some reason at higher speeds, i feel the pedal vibrate as if its a bad rotor....gonna grease the pins and pads this weekend to see if theres a diff. But what gets me is that it Squeals as if the pads are shot as well in the front.
The title problem is that when i brake its smooth ish until 10 MPH where then it feels like the pedal goes to MUSH and i hear an ERRRRR sound as the car comes to a stop. it almost sounds like ABS/ESP while im sliding to a stop in the snow.... Expect there's no snow.
I don't have a high tech phone to record the noise. It never used to make this sound and i feel there is an actual problem.
I am gonna try flushing the brake system with new fluid, take the front brakes off and re grease everything. yesterday seemed to be the day my dash decides to light up like a Christmas tree...
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So I've had my B6 7 months now with no major problems (other than a blown head light bulb, which was repaired under warranty) - until now....
So when I'm decelerating from higher speeds (55mph +)...say for a stop light or to turn....around 30mph....my car occasionally shifts down hard. Not enough to make me stop driving and call a tow truck but definitely enough to make me to notice.
It's only when shifting down and it's just started in the past month or so. Before that the car has performed beautifully...shifting like silk. My car is a 2007, auto 2.0T with almost 20k (had 4k when I bought it). It happens when I decel slow or have to stop real fast. It seems like there's no rhyme or reason to it.
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Getting some lateral movement when on straightaways at higher speeds, it's minimal but feels like the whole car is swaying a little side to side. The suspension feels great otherwise and cornering is accurate. My current setup is:
- Bilstein Sport Shocks and Struts
- Neuspeed Rear Sway Bar
- H&R Front Sway Bar
- Stock on the rest
I think this started when I added the front sway bar but am not sure, had the rear on long before adding it. Would upgraded sway bar end links work or make this more noticeable? Thought about trying to swap the stock front sway bar back in but that one is kind of difficult to get to. How to remedy this?
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But i still have the sound, and it definitely sounds like its coming from the passenger side, however when i looked at everything and tried wiggling the wheel, nothing seemed out of place. Would that still indicate a bad ball joint? Is there anything else i should inspect/have inspected?
The sound only happens when i go over a big bump, or a medium bump at a higher speed. It doesn't seem to affect my steering or driving feel, but its still not a noise that should be there.
I found that the driver side tie rod was a little loose, and replaced that, but sound persists.
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We have had the 2014 Camry SE for 3 months, 2000 miles, (we also have a 2005 Camry LE) and our first interstate trip is when we noticed it. When we get close to 70 mph and above we hear it. Sounds like some maybe flapping/rubbing? No really metal sounding, maybe plastic? I have checked under the car, do not see anything loose. We first thought it was coming from the storage area in between the seat, but we took everything out and the noise continued. Dead center under the car it sounds like. It does it every time, the same sound.
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Started to hear noise from passenger side front wheel at higher speeds and will disappear when turning wheel to right.
From what I have been reading this sounds like it the wheel bearing.
Is this a easy repair or is more work than it sounds.
Autozone shows wheel bearing and hub as separate pieces.
when removing the parts from the car do they come out as assembly or in parts
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I have a 2007 Prius (now has 220K + miles) I bought used about 2 years ago with 150K miles. I finally got used to the car sounds so this is something new, or rather it's becoming louder and enough for me to question it. The car is still quiet at low speeds but this sounds like something related to how fast the car is rolling, not the engine acceleration. It doesn't sound like it's coming from the wheels. It's a low roar like sound, not high pitched and it sounds like it's coming from under the middle to front of the car as if related to perhaps the drive train. If I am up to 40-50 mph and just rolling (foot off the gas) down a long hill, the sound is there. It gets louder the faster I go. Could it be a transmission sound? I've always had manuals so this is my first automatic transmission car.
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