Hyundai - Sonata :: Power Steering Failed Completely As Going Over 50 Mph On Off Ramp To Freeway


Jun 2, 2013

A little over 18 months ago I noticed that my steering wheel seems to catch when I am making a slight turn such as on and off a freeway. It doesn't have the same issue when I am making hard right/left turns. I didn't worry about it until one day, two of my children in the car, the power steering failed completely as I was going over 50 mph on the off ramp to the freeway. I was able to control the car and avoid an accident and drove the car about 1 mile to the grocery store, which was my original destination.I went inside for about an hour and when I came out the car was fine. It has only had one other similar failure in 18 months but I commonly feel the catch of the steering wheel when I am exiting the freeway. What I mean by a catch is that it feels as though I would have to jerk the steering wheel to be able to turn more sharply because it has turned as far as it is able to go. I have taken it to 2 Mechanics including the dealership and neither can recreate my problem.

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I was driving my Sonata this morning to work as usual. It was a wet morning but not raining. I hit a pothole (which I've hit before) going 35-40 mph. About 1-2 minutes later I was driving about 30-35 mph when I heard a click, lost power and then everything came back on. I believe during this "power loss" that I couldn't accelerate since I remember the rpm going down but I know that I took my foot off of the accelerator when this happened. I kept driving to work and about 2-3 minutes later while coasting down a hill at 35-45 mph. It happened really fast twice in a row.

Each time there was a click, the lights would dim or shut off completely (not sure since it happens so fast), the check engine light would flash, and I believe the radio turned off. Since it happened so fast (click, shut off, and back on) I didn't get to see if I could keep driving (accelerate) or if power steering was gone. I am guessing that they would be gone with my limited knowledge of what I was experiencing. I was able to drive 8 minutes to work without it happening again. I popped the hood looking for a loose connection around the battery but nothing was popping out at me. My car has 117,000 miles and has regular maintenance done. Any ways I could diagnose it further? Can O'reilleys check the code that flashed on and off if it isn't on anymore?

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Yesterday, my 2001 Sonata's steering wheel locked up and the key wouldn't turn, despite efforts to jiggle the wheel and key at the same time. The right front tire was in snow (the left front was not), so I got under the car with a snow scraper and banged the snow out of the wheel well and from the ground around the tire. This seemed to do the trick, and I was able to get the car started. Later, I (perhaps stupidly) parked in the same spot (it was either park there, or run the risk of the car getting hit from being too far out into the street). I now find myself in the same situation, but can't seem to remedy it. I've removed all the snow from the wheel well and all the snow surrounding the tire using hot water and salt. The tire is basically suspended in the air by a small-ish chunk of ice that won't melt. If I could get the car in neutral I'd do that and push it out of the snow, but I can't do that without the key turned. As far as I can tell there is no shifter override.

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Ford - Mountaineer :: 2002 - Power Steering Failed With Zero Warning

My son was driving our 2002 Mountaineer when the P/S just quit. It never made any noise, had plenty of tranny fluid in it, it just quit. When I jack it up, the steering works fine, no hitches or sticky points. So, I replaced the P/S Pump, still no power.

Is there a valve between the pump and the rack itself that could have failed? There are no fluid leaks what-so-ever, never have been. This has me stumped.

2002 Mountaineer,178,000 miles.

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On the freeway tonight the engine was felt like it was losing considerable power. When I pressed the gas it wouldn't push you into the seat like usual and it shuddered a little. As I was pushing the gas the engine light came on for a couple seconds then turned off. After I exited the freeway, I tried pushing the gas and it wouldn't accelerate. It also seemed like it was limiting itself to 60mph and 4-5k rpm, even when the gas was fully down (not past gate though, I was afraid I wouldn't be able to make it home if I did so). I stopped and turned the car off and on again and the problems seemed to have disappeared. Acceleration came back, car went over 60 and I was able to get it a little past red line with gas pedal past gate.

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Hyundai - Sonata :: 2009 - Rough Idle / No Power

I'm looking to sell my 2009 sonata soon. I had an engine light and saw p0017 a couple weeks ago, accompanied by a tapping noise from the engine that speeds up as the engine does. On Friday I figured I'd take it for an oil change before getting a price on it from carmax, but didn't wanna bother spending a lot to fix whatever was causing the code/noise. My Last oil change was August 2015, 6k miles ago. Jiffy lube said the oil was low and clearly it had been a long time since I had a change (time, yes, but not so many miles, but guilty I guess) so they recommended an engine flush. I said ok. Drove the car home from them and all seemed fine.

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I'm just looking to get it into good enough shape for carmax to give me more than a hundred bucks. I just decided to see if I could hobble it to another mechanic for a second opinion. It's still doing the same thing, and if I let it idle the engine dies after maybe 10 or 15 seconds, but if I gas it right away it doesn't Rev up fast but eventually does get up there and then it runs mostly ok, albeit noisier, now with a lower pitch noise accompanying the tap. The p0135 and p0035 are gone but now I still see the p0017 along with a p0170. Am I actually screwed or could it be something else? Maybe a bad alternator or battery or spark plug? Something that could have been fouled up by the engine flush?

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Hyundai - Tucson :: 2006 - Power Steering Leak

Just started to leak, evidence on the ground. No noise when turning or driving. The shop said I needed entire rack and pinion but only put the car on lift no other testing. Is this urgent meaning need to get fixed tomorrow? Do I need an entire rack and pinion? Can parts get fixed in the power steering and not the entire thing? They quoted me $1575.00 but I found the rack/pinion part online for $350.00.

I don't drive the car much why did this start?

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In March 2012, the EPS light came on in my Elantra and the power steering went out. At first, when I would restart the car, the light would go off for a time and the power steering would work, but soon it would revert to EPS light and no power steering. I took it to the dealer who ran a couple of updates and tightened a loose connection. All was well until January 2013, when the EPS light came on again and the power steering quit working. No amount of restarting, crossing fingers, or using bad language, would make the light go off and return the steering to normal. Back to the dealer I went. This time the verdict was bad.

Now, in July 2013, my battery (which I had replaced in January 2013) died. Seriously died. Not a sound, not a click. When the car was jump-started, imagine my surprise when the EPS light was out and the power steering worked. After a new battery was in place, the power steering continued to work just fine - so far. My question is this. Would a bad/low battery have anything to do with the EPS malfunctioning? Today, I took the car in for a recall fix and asked this question of the service manager. He said, of course not, but to keep my fingers crossed and hope that it continues to work. So, how can a steering column that needs to be replaced, suddenly begin to work at precisely the moment there is a full electrical charge available to the car? How can there not be a connection?

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I ran a compression test. I get about 60 PSI on cylinder 1 and between 180-210 on 2-4. This would point to head gasket, so I am told. I do burn about a quart of oil every 500-1000 miles, but I do not seem to have any coolant leaking issues. I have not noticed any smoke from the tailpipe. The spark plugs were generally good looking, except for number 3 which had a hard white substance all over the electrode. There does not appear to be any oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. This seems strange to me as everything I have read said that one of those would happen.

Is there anything else I should look into or is my engine toast?

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They had car for four days while testing it after charging the battery. They could find nothing wrong with it(again, no charge). Picked it up and drove it home(with someone following me). Two day latter, dead again. What is draining my battery? Do I have a short or something?

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