Hyundai - Sonata :: Jerks Decelerates To About 20 Mph
Feb 20, 2014
When my 2009 Sonata decelerates to about 20 mph, the car jerks. This happens when my foot is off the brake. What's going on and how can I fix it?
View 8 RepliesWhen my 2009 Sonata decelerates to about 20 mph, the car jerks. This happens when my foot is off the brake. What's going on and how can I fix it?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2004; 4cyl Sonata, that jerks when I accelerate from a stop light or when I step on the gas, it jerks and sputters while passing another vehicle, then it gains speed?
View 2 RepliesNew Sonata GL owner. Just picked it up last week and I love the car. Great drive, great features. Only thing is I am noticing that there's a humming noise from the engine whenever I accelerate and when the car decelerates. It's not really noticeable during the day when the streets are busy and I'm listening to the radio etc., but at night when I'm driving on quiet streets its quite audible and it almost sounds like Diesel engine.
I read a few threads on this and people have attributed it to the direct fuel injection - is this humming sound normal? Do all sonatas sound like this? Or should I go back to the dealership and get it checked out?
I own a Hyundai hatchback which i converted to a LPG sequential kit 6 months back. The car was running fine till a couple of weeks back. Now I experience jerking at 2nd and 3rd gear and sometimes the engine just turns off while on the move at these lower gears or if the car encounters a pothole(I then have to restart the engine ).
So far, I've changed the ignition coil(6 months back) and spark plugs(1 week back) but I still experience the problem.The Hyundai mechanic says that it could be a problem either with the wiring to the ECU( since soldering instead of couplers have been used) or with the injectors. He says the cord wires and ignition coils are just fine.
The Lovato authorized mechanic who fitted the LPG sequential kit says that it could be a problem with the spark plug cord wires or the ignition coil.
The reason I don't see a rationale with the Hyundai mechanic's argument is that the car has been running perfectly for 7 months. Initially , when the car was fitted with the LPG sequential kit, there was a slight jerking problem but was gone once I got the ignition coil replaced.
The reason I don't see a rationale with the LPG mechanic is that the ignition coil is just 6 months ( 4k kms ) old. I've been struggling with this problem for a while since each mechanic is giving his own version of the problem. I might be wrong in my rationale above.
This has happened a few times when the car jerks, check engine light comes on and seemingly goes into limp mode. Cannot engage 4 wd either. I leave the car for while then come back and the engine light is off and the car works normally.
View 2 RepliesMy 2007 Hyundai Accent Automatic has been, what I'd call jerking, off and on when I go to accelerate, either when speeding up to merge on to the interstate/coming out of a turn/or being very slow to accelerate after a stop, like at a red light. About a month ago, it wouldn't start after I filled it up with gas and the check engine light finally came on, so I took it a mechanic. They kept it for a day, got it duplicate the not starting problem, and said it was the "fuel gauge." (looking this up on the internet leaves me questing, because nothing about the definition of a fuel gauge sounds like anything that would cause it to do what it was doing, but they told me that's what the computer alerted as the code for what was wrong.)
It was working fine now when I fill it up with gas, but occasionally still jerks upon accelerating. I haven't looked at the gear gauge to see if it's not changing gears, as I thought at first it might be something misfiring, but I had the spark plugs changed probably a year ago or less. Just based on a quick internet search, I think it might have something to do with the fuel pump. I'd describe the jerking as just that, the car physically jerks until either the gear changes, or it gets power or something, and then once it does it it doesn't accelerate quickly after being at a complete stop, and the engine seems to get louder and while it does move, it seems like when I push the gas petal it has a hard time getting going.
My wife has a 2002 Hyundai Elantra (5-speed manual) with about 185,000 miles on it, which has developed an issue within the last 2 months. The car acts like it is shut off for a split second - tachometer drops suddenly, check engine light flashes very briefly and you lurch a little bit as you lose power, but then after maybe a second, it is back to normal. This has happened while accelerating, cruising down the highway, and idling at a stop sign. The car hasn't actually killed while idling, but is close.
Had it in to a mechanic, and they checked for error codes but found none, and of course it didn't happen while the mechanic had it. On a recent 2 hour trip, it happened maybe 50 times? But hasn't happened for the last week. I should mention that we had the exhaust manifold/front catalytic converter replaced about 3 months ago, as well as a camshaft sensor (those had error codes before we changed them). We've done the recommended maintenance over the years, but are due for another plug/wire replacement (could this be the issue?).
I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra with 130000+ mi on it. The current engine has 96000+ mi; the original was replaced because the previous owner allowed it to overheat, blew a gasket, and apparently warped the engine itself.
I have owned this car for about 6 weeks now. The car was driven roughly 160 mi from where it was purchased to my residence; no trouble on that trip. However, within the first few weeks of owning it, the car started making a squealing noise when I turned the steering wheel. I took the car to a mechanic and had the belts adjusted. This eliminated the squealing, but I was also told that the CV boot needed to be replaced (they asked if I had been hearing a clicking noise when turning, which I had but had thought nothing of), so I also had that repair done. Problem solved. Car seemed to be running fine.
Okay, on to the current problem. Something else I had started to notice, before I had the belts adjusted, was that it seemed to hesitate a little when going up hills, and sometimes when accelerating. It was a small thing, and I attributed it to my driving style (which probably isn't the best) and the fact that my area is very hilly and the car might be having a harder time with that. Well, this problem has gotten worse; I can definitely feel the car jerking, especially when accelerating (very noticeable when going uphill). The problem also seems to be worse at lower speeds, but I'm not entirely sure that I've nailed that down.
One thing I noticed is that it seemed to become much more noticeable after the last time I gassed up the car. It seems like it's getting worse as the fuel is used up, but that's probably just a consequence of using up fuel as I drive and I'm just looking for connections where there aren't any.
In 2007 purchased above referenced vehicle. First week it began to jerk a little when changing gears or just driving it. Last week it began to jerk violently when putting it into gear; then it finally died as i pushed on the brake. It was towed to AAMCO for diagnostics and they finally said the problem was out of their league, or it would cost 800-1000 for complete car diagnostics. Referred me to master mechanic. But I'm taking it back to the dealer. QUESTION: because there seems to be a history of electrical related issues with the model, and recalls found back in 2004, would this car be classified as a "lemon" or is it possible for the electrical issue to be fixed, or should I "junk" the vehicle?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata GLS V6. Recently the area I live in received 2 feet of snow and ice. I of course cleaned off all the snow and ice and started her up. I didn't drive anywhere that day since the roads were not clear. The next day I drove 15 minutes and upon reaching my destination's parking lot, the Sonata went into a jerking motion.
It seemed as if it wanted to stall out, like I was driving a manual. However it's an automatic. I stopped the car, and later when I went to leave it did it again. Once I got out of the parking lot and above speeds of 20 mph everything was fine. No more jerking motion.
The next day, after some time driving it does it again. My car never actually "stalls" or shuts off, it just jerks and once I can press the gas and go, it stops.
There are no odors or sounds and the car only does the jerking motion sometimes.
When I slow down to stop my 2008 Sonata it jerks. It is an intermittent issue. The car has 95,000 miles and when I called the dealer I was told they would start with changing the transmission fluid and go from there. I read on some other posts of this same type of issue being fixed by installing the latest software for the transmission, but this was related to 2009 & 2010 Sonatas. Is it possible that installing some new software would work on my 2008?
View 1 RepliesMY 2011 Sonata has 84K miles. Last couple of months, I've noticed it engine jerks / hesitates / stalls when going from 40 mph to 60 mph. Once it reaches 60 mph I can go 70mph or higher without any problem. I've made several visits to dealership without any success. First, they diagnosed as bad oxygen sensor and bad spark plugs. The problem did not go away after replacing both. According to them it does not give any error code. Now they're asking to perform fuel cleaning service. I feel they're shooting in the dark. Does it sounds like problem with the automatic transmission i.e problem shifting into higher gear.
View 18 RepliesMy daughter has a 2010 Sonata with a 4 cylinder and an automatic transmission. She is pretty frustrated with an intermittent problem. Every once in awhile, especially if the engine is cold, the car jerks while slowing down. She believes it is the transmission when it down shifts. I have driven the car and have not been able to duplicate the problem myself. The dealer recently changed the mapping for the transmission in hopes that would work but it hasn't. The dealer hasn't been able to duplicate the condition either.
View 52 RepliesMy Hyundai is giving me a major headache. I bought a 2009 sonata used a few months back. Not long after I got it, I was having issues with it jerking around 20 mph. Sometimes, it would have a few issues with it jerking some when I was taking off. This was only right after the car was started. I took it to a local Aamco. The guy told me that it was a 2-1 downshift pump. He "relearned" the transmission and the problem went away. Now, it is back. At the time, he did some research and thought it may stem from a calibration update they had issued. He didn't have the Hyundai software to try that fix.
View 3 RepliesI have an 09 Sonata that jerks when automatically down shifting just before coming to a stop or slowing to make sharp turn. Car has 130k miles and I've never changed transmission fluid. BTW...it's been a GREAT car!
View 7 RepliesI recently purchased a 2012 Sonata and would like to know when I should have the first oil service. Some people say 3K, while others say at 5K. Others say the initial service should be done at 1K. What is recommended?
View 17 RepliesI have a 2000 Hyundai Sonata. With the headlights turned off, they come on when I brake. How do I correct this?
View 6 RepliesI drive a 2006 Hyundai Sonata 4 cylinder (2.4) that has about 81,500 miles on it. Recently, I notice front-end squeaks when turning either hard left or right while traveling 10-15 mph or more. There are no squeaks on straight-away driving. The squeaks are not loud - more like muffled squeaks - and occur 1-3 times per occurrence. I asked several people at auto parts stores. Most tell me that it is likely my tie-rod ends which have no grease fittings. One or two people have mentioned CV joints but I discount this as there is no damage to the boots and I do not get the tell-tale clicking noise on turns.
View 2 RepliesI just got a 2010 Hyundai Sonata, and it drives fine, but when idling there is an ever so subtle (but noticeable) vibration that seems to be coming from the engine. I read that there was a BBB arbitration case that ruled that some Hyundais had a defective motor mount, but I'm not sure. Should I go get it checked out? The dealers at the lot I purchased it from just told me it was normal and that it'll just be that way for a 4 cylinder car sometimes, but I think they're just trying to sell cars...
View 2 RepliesMy wifes 2011 Hyundai Sonata would not start yesterday at the clinic. I purchased a new battery went there today to replace the battery. Before I started the work I tried starting the car. When I turned the key to the on position the radio came on and the dashboard lit up like normal. As soon as I turned the key to start the car the battery went completely dead. The starter did not engage and the electrical went out.
I replaced the battery. When I turned the key to the on position nothing turned on. Not the radio or any of the dashboard lights. I tried starting the car and there was not response, exactly like a dead battery. I purchased a new battery and they tested it right in front of me before giving it to me so I feel like I can rule out the battery.
I double checked that he connections were tight. I tried jiggling the shifter, pushing the brake pedal, jigging the steering wheel around, jiggling the key in the ignition. The positive battery terminal connector has a fuse, it appears to be intact. I also checked the fuse panel in the engine compartment. All of the large fuses are intact (I only looked at the 3 or 4 of the large ones that were visible from the top). I didn't check the smaller fuses, I wasn't sure which ones to check.
A little background : For a couple days in a row my wife was noticing that the car was struggling to start (she didn't mention this to me right away). I noticed that when we were driving it the head lights had a very subtle flicker. When were idling at a stoplight it appeared as if the lights were dimming and getting brighter rapidly. I noticed it from the reflection of a license plate and dismissed it as maybe just the wind causing the license plate on the car ahead of us to wobble. It was subtle and not very pronounced. Yesterday my wife went to the clinic and when she was leaving the car would not start. Someone tried with jumper cables but she was not able to get it started. Even after letting it sit for 5 minutes before trying to start it.
My buddy thinks it's the ignition switch itself, but that sounds quite a bit beyond my capacity. I suspected that since the lights were fluttering/dimming that it was an alternator problem. Even if the alternator is bad wouldn't the car still run on a fresh battery?
4 cylinder Sonata with 177k miles on it. When I first get in the car and drive away the transmission doesn't want to shift up. I have a manu matic type shifter so I usually just shift up as the RPMS reach the normal shift point. Eventually the transmission starts working but sometimes it acts up and I'm back to shifting myself. Sometimes it shifts hard or double shifts. I'm getting conflicting info from different mechanics. Some say change the transmission fluid and that should fix it. Others say don't because it could open up a bigger can of worms and I will be buying a new transmission shortly after. What should I do?? I can't afford a new car nor can I afford to buy a new transmission.
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