Hyundai - Sonata :: Hesitates And Sputters, Mostly In Lower Gears When Not Accelerating Hard
Nov 12, 2011
I recently bought a 2004 Hyundai Sonata 4cyl with about 65k miles. In the past few months I've noticed that it likes to sputter and hesitate at times, mostly in lower gears when I'm not accelerating hard. At highway speeds it's mostly fine. It's also fairly random - some days it's really bad and others it's fine. Also seems worse when in reverse. I don't think the plugs have been changed so that's one idea, but I'm wondering if it's a bad fuel filter, exhaust manifold leak or something else. It's not throwing any codes (and yes the light works) and it has never stalled completely out.
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I have the light engine on - and my mechanic has informed me that the O2 sensor on bank one needs to be replaced. I need to understand if the lost of power when accelerating the car can be directly related to the O2 sensor or something else. The car hesitates and takes long to switch gears on my Auto tectronic trany.
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My 2007 Hyundai Elantra SE (Automatic, 69,400 miles) makes a grinding noise when I start to accelerate from 40 mph. I sometimes hear a noise that sounds like an airplane wheel being activated when I'm driving at lower speeds driving around town. Could this be the transmission? Who should I take the car to?
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I have a 2004; 4cyl Sonata, that jerks when I accelerate from a stop light or when I step on the gas, it jerks and sputters while passing another vehicle, then it gains speed?
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I've stumped the local dealership and their Hyundai Tech Line as well. This is a 2011 Hyundai Sonata with about 50k miles. Also this is my first winter with it so I can't tell you if it's a new issue or if it's always happened in the "cold". This is Northern California so the cold nights are about as low as 30.
On a cold start, after 20-30 minutes the heater sputters out and the lights on the control unit go out. Sometimes it goes back on if I continue driving for 5-15 more minutes; another way for it to go on again is to turn the car off and start it again. The final way to turn it back on (which was discovered the last time it was in the shop) is to gently begin to start the car again (while it's on) and just that slight movement in the ignition cylinder turns it back on.
The sputtering out doesn't actually turn it off completely, just the lights, buttons and knobs stop responding and the heat mostly goes off.
The control unit has been replaced, plugs have been tightened and the ignition cylinder has been replaced.
They've road tested it 3 times and I'm a little tired of having to get a rental car as they claim to not be able to start a new case with Hyundai Tech Line until they have my car.
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I own a 2004 Hyundai Sonata (2004 Base model L4 - 2.4L 2351cc - MFI GAS DOHC) which is a 4 cylinder and has about 113000 miles. Anyways, about a month ago we had one of our coldest days of the year. I drove the car to work and everything was fine. Then when I left work (it was freezing cold) I went to start the car and it sounded like I started a race car. It was so loud that I thought the car was going to blow up (no check engine light came on). I changed the oil and that didn't work and so I figured it was something with the exhaust.
Then I took it to my mechanic (applause). He said that he was stumped, the car was noisy but he didn't think it was a problem but he said he would try to figure it out. He ended up taking off the timing belt and said that was fine, he said the water pump was good as well. He had a service tech look at it with him and they thought the issue might be the "vibration dampener" or "damper" So they replaced that but it didn't work. He said it could possibly be the motor mounts but he said when he looked at them they looked okay?
I drove it off his lot yesterday and it is quiet when I idle but I can see the steering wheel shaking significantly. Then when I hit the gas it is still obnoxiously loud and with heavy vibration! But when going down a hill and letting off the gas there is a brief respite of silence (still vibration). It is especially louder in lower rpms and sometimes I think I can hear a metallic clanking/scraping noise when I have the times of "silence" but it is very faint.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Sonata and when I refuel the engine is hard to start. Once it starts everything is normal until the next fueling. I've Googled the problem and the most logical result I've seen is that the evap system purge valve might be stuck open. This causes a flooding situation which is how my car acts and if I press the accelorator to the floor when starting it fires right up. Does this diagnosis sound accurate and what would be involved to repair it.
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The shifting in my Hyundai Sonata 2009 Limited V6 is horrible, having issues with shifting such as a hard jerk from 1st to 2nd when car changes gears driving. It feels like it is pulling back when the car changes into 3rd gear oh and you can forget trying to go uphill. It is completely horrendous it is shifting always up to 3000+ rpms struggling to make it uphill. Any way to achieve a smoother shift and also towards the uphill thing.
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This auto has 143,000 miles on it. I recenty noticed a creaking noise from the left front when accelerating from a dead stop. The shop I have used for 15 years said that the motor mounts are deteriorating and should be replaced. I trust the guy but would like to avoid the $1,400 repair. There are no symptoms other than the ocassional noise.
What is the downside of ignoring his recommendation? What other symptoms can I expect if I delay the repair? Can this be a serious safety issue? I plan to keep the car for another two years unless I bite the dust first or the engine falls out.
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My sonata 2012 with 71K km on it just started hard shifting in the morning, after first start. It slamming in D from R very harsh and then shifts all other gears for ~3 minutes harshly (upshift / downshift) and then it gets fine and shifts gears with absolutely no problem throughout the day. Dealer of course was not able to reproduce the problem.
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I got my truck to throw some codes. As many of you know I have been having an issue where when I stomp my truck to the floor it sputters and hesitates. Some days its worse then others. It only happens under a load, and it generally doesn't last to long, however today it did it a whole bunch and lasted for a good bit any time I got on it hard. My engine light begin to flash, and there was a smell of exhaust. I went to Autozone quickly as possible. The guy read the code, and this time no lean codes, just a "P0430" which the code reader said was O2 Sensor Bank 2. It also had a pending code, which was "multiple cylinder misfire detected". So my question is can an O2 sensor cause this? Could my CAT on that side be bad?
If that is all it is, is a bad cat or O2 sensor then I will be very happy... Like I said I can sit in my driveway in park all day long, and rev outta my truck. It will never misfire or hesitate at all. Soon is I put it in gear and am going down the road and punch it sometimes it pop and sputter.
Another cool thing is some how their code reader was able to read my ABS light, and I found out that this whole time I have had a bad ABS Speed Sensor in the rear end. That is a plus as well.
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My girlfriend drives an 09 corolla (1.8L I believe). I have an OBDII bluetooth reader w/ Torque App so to identify the issue I can get some data:
Last week I was driving the corolla and I got P0031: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1). Car seemed to run fine without any issues. My girlfriend brought her car in to her "mechanic". "mechanic" who will replace have of your engine only to realize that your gas cap was cracked. He apparently replaced 02 Bank 1 Sensor 2 (I'm still trying to confirm this and to get the part # to make sure). He reset the ECU and she drove for about 30 miles after which these codes popped up:
P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1)
P0101: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
The car was idling rough. I reset the codes and the car was running fine until all monitor systems were ready. When Catalyst, 02 Heater & 02 Sensor are not ready everything is running fine and I don't see any error codes. I cleared ECU a few times. The last time I was able to drive for over 20 miles without any issues. Currently the only sensor not ready is 02 and car is running fine but I have a feeling once its ready the car will start having issues again:
Summary (if you don't want to read everything)
*P0031: H02S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1) - Car runs fine
*Mechanic replaces 02 Bank 1 Sensor 2 (Trying to find part # and double check sensor name)
*ECU reset and car runs fine for 30 miles
*P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1) and P0101: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
*ECU reset - car sputters and hesitates
*When all monitors are ready same codes (P0172 & P0101)
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Tonight while driving and accelerating fairly hard we began to hear a noise. The car sat parked for roughly 5 hours and then we began to drive it home (apx. 12-15 miles). About halfway through the drive the power steering went out and the battery light came on. The battery light would turn off and the drivers seatbelt light would come on even while it was buckled. These two lights alternated being on and off 2 times each. We heard something that sounded like a rock got kicked up into a wheel well. After getting the car home with no power steering we noticed the car had begun to run very hot. almost all the way up the gauge.
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I've driven 32k miles now, and I'm having an acceleration problem. It does not happen everyday, maybe once a month. but once I start accelerating hard to merge onto highway, it shifts down and rpm goes up but the speed remains the same.
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I have a 2007 Sonata 3.3 V6 GLS (CDN model) with 102k km (63K miles). Recently, I am noticing a rotational metal-like grinding noise from the front left wheel / engine area when engaging in hard right and left turns - usually a long looped highway on-ramp or sharp 90 degree turns. The interesting thing is this only happens when I am accelerating through the turns - when I left off the gas and cruise I don't hear it anymore.
On the side, I am also getting a single clunk noise when shifting from Park to Drive and vice versa from the same area (front left wheel) - not sure if this is related (i.e. if this is all related to a failing CV joint or wheel bearing).
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I own a hyundai accent 2000 GLS, i have recently replaced the ECM wiring and a brand new ignition coil, however the engine still sputters when i try to accelerate in higher gears, my mechanic told me that the engine mounting bushes need replacement. is it one of the causes? the sparks plugs are new, fuel pump is working fine.
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I was wondering what could be causing my Elantra to hesitate? I have the 2.0 5 speed 4 door sedan. It only hesitates below 1500 rpms in all of the gears. I was curious if plugs and wires could work out pretty good? I know when I changed them out in my old Saturn SL1, that stopped the hesitation.
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Our 2004 LeSabre has the following symptoms - there's a clicking that occurs whenever the car is in motion, the car occasionally hesitates/bucks when shifting between gears (but not always), the radio sometimes does not go off when the keys are taken out of the ignition, we're losing about a quart of oil about every 2500 miles but there is no sign of a leak on the ground, we also seem to have reduced mileage (using more gas).
In this corner, Mechanic 1 (high price) - replace front lower control arms, sway bar, and bushing, front end alignment, throttle body gasket and EGR tube, oil pan gasket replacement, ignition switch replacement, brake fluid and coolant flush. $1900
In the other corner, Mechanic 2 (low price) thinks it's just the spark plugs and wires that need to be replaced, the wires, replace air and fuel filter, and PCV valve - $450
We had the oil changed about 2500 miles ago, replaced the air filter then. The oil change place suggested a coolant and brake fluid flush. I've used mechanic 1 in the past and they have replaced my head gaskets a couple of times and I suspect they are ripping me off.
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I love my 01 Elantra great gas mileage and it just zips around with no problems. Recently had an issue where i was depressing the gas pedal but it just decelerated and never was able to get above about 20mph. I pulled over, tapped on a few parts in the engine and restarted the car... the problem went away. It has some hesitaion when I accelerate. The check engine does not come on ever not even when I start the car . . . What the problem might be ? MAF, modules, ECM.... ?
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Engine hesitates and stays at 500 RPM for a few seconds while trying to accelerat after slowdown at intersections. This is a brand new Hyundai Santa Fe se with less than 500 miles.
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Would bad lower front ball joints freeze and creak when turning. I have noticed that my car(2010GLS) with 108k miles has a creaking sound when turning the wheels left to right. I poked a hole in the rubber boot covering the joint and sprayed WD 40 in there and now it seem to creak even more. Guess I am going to replace the l and r lower ball joints.
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