Hyundai - Sonata :: 2011 GLS Stall Out And Clutch Engaged While In Gear
Aug 2, 2016
I accidentally "popped the clutch" while parking in my driveway and now there's something wrong with the clutch pedal!!
I let the car stall out on accident and somehow had the clutch engaged while in gear and forgot or something and when I released the pedal while still in gear, the car tried to start, but I pushed the clutch in instead of letting it start and now the clutch pedal is all the way to the floor, there is no tension, like a spring came loose, but this is a hydraulic clutch so there wouldn't be a spring, right? What did I do?? And how can I fix it?
2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS
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Here's the scoop: 2 year old clutch & flywheel with 21,000 miles on them. Clutch master cyl. is full & not leaking. The clutch slave cyl. moves when the clutch is pressed & is also not leaking. The shifter linkage has been checked at the shifter and moves freely as it should.
I started the car, put it in gear, let the clutch out and there is no movement from the car regardless of the engine revs. The engine runs freely and does not die with the clutch engaged and the transaxle in gear. Putting it in ANY gear (including reverse) has no effect. The car will not move.
After turning the engine off I left the car in gear, left the e-brake disengaged, released the foot brake and the car stayed put. I then put the shifter into neutral, let the foot brake off and the car began to roll. I stopped, put the shifter back into 1st, let the foot brake off and the car was again stationary and did not roll. This tells me that the shifter linkage indeed works and that the car WILL go into gear. So, why won't the car move under power?
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My manual 2004 Ford Ranger XLT (4.0L) has been Buzzing/Rattling. (VIDEO LINK BELOW) She has 112k miles on her. Owned 1 month, no issues when I bought from my paps. Its my 1st manual so may have been a little hard on clutch 1st few days. Noise started abruptly 1 week ago when I engaged clutch to shift to 3rd. Its gotten worse over the few days and happens even when in gear. Its much more prominent from outside passenger window. Don't notice for 1st couple mins of driving & is intermittent but often. Noticeably louder when foot is taken off gas in motion. Does not make noise when idling. Generally only above 1500 RPM . Not coming from the back half so I don't think its the exhaust/heatshield
Heres the sound......
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I picked up a 2004 GTI not long ago for pretty cheap because it had a few issues. I am working my way through them. However, having 3rd gear issue.
All other gears are perfectly fine but there is way less play in the shifter in the 3rd gear position and I have to hold the shifter in position until the clutch is engaged (pedal up) to avoid the gear grinding. Once the clutch is engaged it stays in 3rd gear fine. It doesn't matter if I am moving from 2nd to 3rd or 4th to 3rd. Same deal. I have aligned the shifter several times using to proper procedures with no effect.
It never grinds 3rd with the clutch disengaged (so the synchro is fine?) and it will bang shift no problem. Oh and the clutch is less than a year old. It was installed by a shop before I bought the car. It's not really a big deal, but I would like to fix it. If I have to swap the trans that's fine, but need to figure out if it is a trans or linkage issue first.
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After I fill my 6 cyl 2004 Hyundai Sonata (280,000 km), the engines starts, then stalls. I can only get it to work by keeping the accelerator pushed to ensure sufficient rpm's. If I remove my foot from the accelerator, the rpm's drop to zero.With the engine revving, I put the car in drive and 'lurch' away from the pump. After that, everything is fine. It starts up properly … until the next fill. My mechanic is mystified and I am frustrated.
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What is dual clutch gear box, does it make sense for Automatic transmission? Are there any disadvantages in not having one in your car?
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2011 GLS 2.4L auto 50K
After many months of trouble free driving, the vehicle has stalled twice at low speed while making a sharp turn. Once turning right, once turning left. Once it was warmed up, and once it was cold. Starts right up again. The vehicle has had all current recalls/tsbs to date including the various steering items except the most recent EPS 143 notice that has no remedy yet.
I will be test driving it myself to see if I can replicate the issue. I am not seeing anything specific on the forums other than maybe the TPS.
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My wifes 2011 Hyundai Sonata would not start yesterday at the clinic. I purchased a new battery went there today to replace the battery. Before I started the work I tried starting the car. When I turned the key to the on position the radio came on and the dashboard lit up like normal. As soon as I turned the key to start the car the battery went completely dead. The starter did not engage and the electrical went out.
I replaced the battery. When I turned the key to the on position nothing turned on. Not the radio or any of the dashboard lights. I tried starting the car and there was not response, exactly like a dead battery. I purchased a new battery and they tested it right in front of me before giving it to me so I feel like I can rule out the battery.
I double checked that he connections were tight. I tried jiggling the shifter, pushing the brake pedal, jigging the steering wheel around, jiggling the key in the ignition. The positive battery terminal connector has a fuse, it appears to be intact. I also checked the fuse panel in the engine compartment. All of the large fuses are intact (I only looked at the 3 or 4 of the large ones that were visible from the top). I didn't check the smaller fuses, I wasn't sure which ones to check.
A little background : For a couple days in a row my wife was noticing that the car was struggling to start (she didn't mention this to me right away). I noticed that when we were driving it the head lights had a very subtle flicker. When were idling at a stoplight it appeared as if the lights were dimming and getting brighter rapidly. I noticed it from the reflection of a license plate and dismissed it as maybe just the wind causing the license plate on the car ahead of us to wobble. It was subtle and not very pronounced. Yesterday my wife went to the clinic and when she was leaving the car would not start. Someone tried with jumper cables but she was not able to get it started. Even after letting it sit for 5 minutes before trying to start it.
My buddy thinks it's the ignition switch itself, but that sounds quite a bit beyond my capacity. I suspected that since the lights were fluttering/dimming that it was an alternator problem. Even if the alternator is bad wouldn't the car still run on a fresh battery?
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my buddies just got a used 2015 sonata and I'm wondering who will win or what car has the advantage?
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Having a weird noise coming from the engine of my 2011 Hyundai Sonata , mom is thinking it's the timing chain , is there a way to check the timing chain before taking it into the shop ?
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Which one is better and why?
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My wifes 2011 Hyundai Sonata would not start yesterday at the clinic. I purchased a new battery went there today to replace the battery. Before I started the work I tried starting the car. When I turned the key to the on position the radio came on and the dashboard lit up like normal. As soon as I turned the key to start the car the battery went completely dead. The starter did not engage and the electrical went out.
I replaced the battery. When I turned the key to the on position nothing turned on. Not the radio or any of the dashboard lights. I tried starting the car and there was not response, exactly like a dead battery. I purchased a new battery and they tested it right in front of me before giving it to me so I feel like I can rule out the battery.
I double checked that he connections were tight. I tried jiggling the shifter, pushing the brake pedal, jigging the steering wheel around, jiggling the key in the ignition. The positive battery terminal connector has a fuse, it appears to be intact. I also checked the fuse panel in the engine compartment. All of the large fuses are intact (I only looked at the 3 or 4 of the large ones that were visible from the top). I didn't check the smaller fuses, I wasn't sure which ones to check.
A little background;For a couple days in a row my wife was noticing that the car was struggling to start (she didn't mention this to me right away). I noticed that when we were driving it the head lights had a very suttle flicker. When were idling at a stoplight it appeared as if the lights were dimming and getting brighter rapidly. I noticed it from the reflection of a license plate and dismissed it as maybe just the wind causing the license plate on the car ahead of us to wobble. It was suttle and not very pronounced. Yesterday my wife went to the clinic and when she was leaving the car would not start. Someone try with jumper cables but she was not able to get it started. Even after letting it sit for 5 minutes before trying to start it.
My buddy thinks it's the ignition switch itself, but that sounds quite a bit beyond my capacity. I suspected that since the lights were fluttering/dimming that it was an alternator problem. Even if the alternator is bad wouldn't the car still run on a fresh battery?
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I have a 2000 Hyundai Sonata with 110K miles. It runs well, still quiet, good gas mileage. The problem is that it will not shift from 3rd to 4th gear. This is not constant. When I start it up cold in the morning, it shifts fine. But sometime during the day, when it needs to go from 3rd to 4th (often on the interstate), it refuses to shift. It stays in 3rd, the engine light comes on, and I'll drive about 60 mph and try to keep the RPMs under 3000. It always "fixes" itself when I turn off the ignition. This makes me think the problem is at least partially electrical. A couple more things: it only happens when the car is warmed up -- never when I drive it cold. Also, sometimes this will happen in 1st gear, where it won't shift into 2nd, but jumps straight to 3rd rather violently.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Sonata (automatic transmission) that has recently been "jumping" when the car shifts between 2nd and 3rd. This happens only after the engine is "warm", and does not happen in any other gears or when I downshift.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Sonata V6 with around 257,000 miles on it.
Recently, it has been slipping out of 5th in automatic mode so I have been driving it in manual mode without utilizing the 5th gear. When I'm in 4th, the RPMs are around 2,200 so not that bad going 60 mph.
The first event was when I was accelerating onto the highway on a bridge going 65 mph and all of a sudden, felt a thud in the front end and the "check engine light" came on. I also noticed that the RPMs were registering way too high (way over 3,000k) so basically it sounded like I was going 65 mph in 3rd gear. I had to drive until the end of the bridge, pulled over and shut off the car. Once I started it, no problems driving in 5th gear for the next 45 minutes.
Error codes were P1790 and P1529.
Added a bit more ATF fluid since it seemed low, the "check engine light" turned itself off. I drove at 65 mph for about 45 minutes and felt the front end dip again as the tranny slipped into the 3rd gear. Again, I had to pull over, shut off the engine and turn it back on again.
Because I don't really have the funds for another car at the moment, I have been driving it in 4th gear with a top speed of around 60 mph. The "check engine light" turned off after the last slip, but I have been receiving so many opinions.
I'm pretty sure the transmission is going out....
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Whenever I start my 2011 Sonata Turbo after it has been resting overnight, the brake warning light comes on and stays on. It's not immediate—it usually takes five to ten seconds, and whether the emergency brake was on when I started has no effect. Once it goes on, it cannot be shut off without shutting off the car and restarting—at which time it acts normally. The braking system is fine.
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS with 65k miles...it has a 2.4 liter motor (4 CYL), auto transmission. The car currently has 205-65-R16 tires on it with a 95H speed rating. They all have worn down to the wear bars so it's time for replacement.
On my previous cars, I've always had Uniroyal Tiger Paw touring tires because I love how they ride. I found the same tire size for my Sonata. However it has a different speed rating...95T.
The only difference is the letter "T".
EDIT: It currently has Nexen N5000 tires and I bought the car with these tires already on....crappy tires...worn down in only 30k miles.
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I have a 2006 hyundai sonata, which has possibly the worst designed cup holder of all time. Because of this awful design flaw, I stopped my car at a light yesterday and some of my coffee spilled into the gear shift box. Now when I am in regular D, it appears the car stays in 1st gear. This sonata also has the option of pushing the stick to the right so you can manually shift gears.. I think it's called sports mode or something. When I try that, I can shift it up to 2nd, but I drops right back down to 1. I left it overnight, hoping it was just some wet electronics and would dry, but this morning the problem persists. Not sure if there's a fix for this, if I should take it to a transmission place, or just my regular mechanic. Someone suggested contact cleaner, which I might have I just have to look.
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I have a 2011 sonata with the 2.4 liter 4 CYL motor and auto transmission. It has 61,600 miles on it. Just out of warranty...awesome.
In the last few days I've noticed it has had issues starting. For instance, when I got into the car and started it for the first time in the day, it starts up fine. Then a few hours later, I start it again but the engine will just spin slowly...I then turn the key back to off and then turn it again to start. It then will start up fine on the next try.
No check engine light or any sounds I can feel (I am Deaf so I cannot hear any sounds when it doesn't start) new battery in August of 2015. When it doesn't start, all of the dash lights come on.
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2000 Hyundai Sonata 2.4 L engine, transmission drops from 4th gear to 3rd gear at cruising speed (65mph) and locks into 3rd gear, I have to stop and turn the key off and start the engine again to reset the A/T what do you think is happening?
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I recently purchased a 2011 Sonata GLS with a manual transmission--it has a mere 15k miles on it. I'd have to say that after driving it around for a bit I really don't like the gas pedal or the clutch pedal as compared to my old Honda, and my friend's new VW. The gas pedal is super sensitive--I feel like 90% of the throttle is in the first 10% of movement. I'm traveling at 60 mph and it feels like the pedal is only depressed 1/8 inch.
It's kind of the opposite for the clutch pedal. It grabs fine, that is, I can feel the engagement point perfectly, but there is so much travel. I feel like I lift my knee to my chest and have to push the clutch through feet of travel. More literally though, I can't just do most of the work by rotating my foot on the heel--I have to lift my entire leg. I prefer cars with much less travel and think the Elantra was pretty good in fact.
I don't have an eco mode since it's a manual so that rules out desensitizing the gas pedal by those means... Is there any way to reduce the sensitivity of the gas pedal, and to maybe reduce the total overall travel of the clutch pedal? It has to be reliable and safe..
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